Jump to content

Kenna

Member
  • Posts

    102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kenna

  1. This is something I have already tried. I removed the cmos battery for a good few minutes and even shorted out the clr_cmos jumper but still nothing and cant enter the bios. Also another thing, when I turn my pc on I don't get any motherboard splash screen or even the windows spinning loading dots. When the motherboard first displays a signal it is already on the windows login screen.
  2. I removed the boot m.2 ssd but again del/f2 dont seem to do anything with a black screen and no display signal, with Pc lights up and fans spin Could my motherboards have shat it self?
  3. Ok I have thought about creating a usb windows recovery drive but unfortunately don't have another pc on hand, I can get one if needed though. You mentioned disconnecting the ssd before start up so that the device boots off the recovery drive, then reconnecting once it boots. I thought m.2 isnt hot swappable, kinda confused right now
  4. Was using my pc like normal today when suddenly it started lagging really badly, with the mouse cursor behaving really laggy. Task manager also seemed to stop responding. I turned off pc at the psu and when I turned it back on again I got this message on the login screen "something happened and your pin isn't available click to set up your pin again" Clicking to setup pin again does nothing. I tried doing the shift + restart to get into recovery but it doesn't work. My pc turns on, the fans spin away fast but no display signal or anything to be seen on my monitor. Also jamming del/f2 to try and get into bios has the same symptoms, fans roaring away and no display. If I dont touch anything it boots to the windows login screen but again with the pin being inaccessible and no way to login. Also took out the cmos battery and also measured voltage with volt meter and it is fine at ~3.2ish volts. Also disconnect all the sata drives but it didn't seem to do anything. I am at my wit's end on what to do here. PC specs are Ryzen 5900x Aorus X570 elite wifi mobo RTX 3080 ti 32gb ddr4 Samsung 970 evo plus 2tb ssd (boot drive) Have 3 other HDD in the system to Some fractal design modular psu. PC has had some hiccups in the past. It has sometimes occasionally displayed no display signal with the fans spinning away necessitating a restart/ power cycle. Also when I first turn the pc on it always seems to roaring the fans before turning them off after a about 10 sec or so then resuming the process before starting like normal and getting a display signal. Not sure if this is related or not.
  5. Ok thanks for that guys, Anyone have any recommended privacy oriented web browsers for android.
  6. Hi there I have a question. what kind of information do websites know about your device. Obviously they know your IP, but what else. for the case of android, can they know your android device ID and your model number. How about MAC address? Can they know system specs?, I imagine that they will know your screen resolution and aspect ratio? Does changing or spoofing your user agent help at all or not?
  7. I removed one of the ram sticks and I didn't get any blue screens seems stable. The thing is I tried the other stick since I assumed it was defective and yet the pc worked fine as well. It was only when I had both sticks in at the same time I get tons of BSOD's bit confused here
  8. I removed the SSD and tried installing windows 10 in the hard drive. I had a blue screen pretty quickly. I'm guessing it's the ram that is probably defective then.
  9. I recently build a new pc for my gran. Specs are: 16gb ram some random brand called Team group (purchased everything from amazon.jp) Ryzen 5 2400g (no OC at all) Asrock B450m Pro4 (on latest bios) WD green PC SSD Sata (m.2 2280) 1tb wd blue hdd I have build plenty of pc's before and this one has by far been the most trouble. I have had constant BSOD's, I even had several BSOD's during the windows installation process, which basically meant i had to format the drive and start over. When Windows eventually did install I have constant BSOD's, most of the time as soon as i try and login in the system bluescreens and when i do manage to get into windows, I always blue screen with in 5 min or less. Bluescreen errors i have had so far are: Memory Management Kmode exception not handled system service exception irql_not_less_or_equal critical process died attempted write to read only memory also had something called winpeshl.exe show up after one of the BSOD, when it showed up the screen was also all glitched out with red lines and shit on it. Not sure what is wrong. Ran memtest86 for 4 passes but had 0 errors, I also ran the windows memory diagnostic tool thing and it said hardware problems detected. Is it the ram that is cooked? or maybe the ssd that is my other hunch Whatever the issue, i need to find out the underlining cause asap.
  10. Think I might have fixed it, I reflashed my bios and it seems to be performing better
  11. Hi their I have a ryzen build pc that I get some pretty bad stuttering in games. The specs are as follows: GTX 1080ti Ryzen 7 2700 16gb ram ddr4 @2800mhz I play on a acer x34 monitor @ 3440x1440 resolution and @95hz I have pretty bad stuttering in most of my games, though it is probably worst in fortnite. In fortnite for example, I got a pretty steady 80-95fps, but I often get dips down to the 20-30fps range before the fps jumps back up to the regular 80-95fps range. I lowered fortnites graphics and resolution to potato settings and my frame rate while at a constant 95fps would still have dips inexplicably down to the 20-30fps range. Please help this is incredibly annoying, I did at one point upgrade my cpu from a 1700 to a 2700, I did reset windows but I chose the keep my files option not a full reset.
  12. Unfortunately after just under 24hrs the distortion problem has came back, even with my amp plugged into a different outlet. I know the problem is definitely from my PC, since i can plug my laptop and into my Mstage and the distortion is gone. Just then I briefly restarted my PC and the distortion problem seemed to go, but after about 5-10min it started coming back. I'll turn my PC off for the next hour and then restart it to see if that does anything. I may end up looking into a USB noise filter after all.
  13. I fixed it, I had to run a 3 metre extension cable to a power socket in another room and it fixed it, the other power socket in my room also had distortion issues.
  14. Was thinking about maybe getting a usb noise filter,Something like the AudioQuest JitterBug or Ifi Silencer. I did try different power sockets but it didn't seem to help.
  15. I tried that and it didn't work, the thing is though that when I plug my HD800 into the front 6.35mm input of the Mstage there is no noticable distortion when the Mstage is connected to my PC. I use a RCA cable connected to the Mstage's rear secondary output to connect to my amp.
  16. Doesn't work, power amp has no volume control that is what the pre-amp is for and even with the pre-amp volume knob all the way to mute, the distortion hiss from my speakers is still there.Changing it in windows doesn't help as well.
  17. Hi there, I have recently received a new power amp for my speakers. I have it connected to my Headphone amp/Dac which functions as the pre-amp, the problem is that I get a pretty loud and audible hiss/noise from the speakers, Even at at regular listening volumes I can hear it if i listen closely. The power amp and speakers I build myself from a kit, while the Pre-amp is a Matrix Mstage HPA2 that I have used with my HD800 for 2 years. The Distortion seems to be coming from my PC, whenever I plug my pre-amp into my PC and connected it to my amp the distortion is there and loud, I plugged the MStage usb cable into my phone using a type c adapter and the distortion is basically unnoticeable. I tried plugging the cable into my Predator x34's usb pass through but it made no difference, the problem seems to come from my pc itself, I also tried using different usb ports on it but distortion was still present. My question is how do I get rid of this distortion, I was thinking about buying a shielded cable, but I'm doubtful if it will help, since the problem may be coming from inside my PC. Please Help, I really need to be able to use my PC with my speaker system.
  18. Yeah, I have a mate with a ryzen 7 1700 @3.95ghz and his cinebench R15 score is also around 1700. Though for me the main issue I have is lag spikes/stuttering in games
  19. I have installed a ryzen 7 2700 however my PC performance isn't as good as it should be, though even with my old ryzen 7 1700 I had some performance issues. In games I get lag spikes and stuttering quite a bit. Games in question being fortnite, Witcher 3 and COD WW2. In cinebench R15 I haven't been able to breach the 1700 point barrier and this is with 2700 being oc'ed to 4.2ghz. Not sure what is bottlenecking my performance. Full PC specs are: Ryzen 7 2700 @4.2ghz 16GB DDR4 @2666MHZ Asus turbo GTX 1080Ti Asus x370 prime pro MOBO Intel 512gb 600p drive 2 TB HDD (not sure the brand) CoolerMaster AIO CPU cooler Acer x34 3440x1440 ultrawide gsync monitor Bios is fully updated I tried overclocking the ram to 2933mhz by increasing the stock dram voltage but performance was very bad, chrome especially was basically unusable with major lagging and stuttering, CPU also didn't clock any higher than 3.2ghz instead of the 4.2ghz clock I had, cinebench R15 performing dropped to just over 1100. Maybe I didn't increase dram voltage enough?
  20. Hi there guys just purchased a new X34 monitor, so far it is a big upgrade over my old 60hz Asus PB278Q monitor but it seems to have a bit of backlight bleed, just wondering if you guys think it is acceptable. Would like to hear other X34 owners thoughts. I purchased it locally in Australia so I'm sure I could probably exchange it if necessary. Backlight glow is noticeable to me, I often use my monitor on low brightness in a pretty dark room at night. I'm sure if I had to I could adapt quite easily by using more ambient light at night. Photos Below.
  21. Estimated Costs so far have been around 3000 aud (2295usd), have pretty much everything I need for the build, only a few minor things left. Drivers and Crossovers alone where 2800aud I am also planning on staining the Birch Plywood, but that shouldn't add to much to the over all cost.
  22. Hi all, I have been contemplating building my own set off very high end speakers for a while now. My previous speakers where the KEF LS50's. The Tempesta are a 3 way bookshelf/monitor type speaker designed by Rick Craig over at Selah Audio, They have some of the very best drivers money can buy. The Temepsta's come in both a prebuilt version as well as a kit. http://www.selahaudio.com/tempesta For this project I will be designing and building my own cabinet, with the only really guide lines being the front baffle dimensions and the cabinet volume. Cabinets will be constructed out of 18mm thick Birch Ply, with the front baffle being 36mm ply (2 18mm pieces laminated together). Cabinet has 3 Horizontal Braces, 1 below and 1 above the woofer and 1 between the tweeter and midrange drivers. Bracing is needed to stiffen up the cabinet and especially the front baffle, to increase cabinet stiffness and decrease cabinet resonance. 10mm foam and Dynamat like sheets/pads, will be glued to the interior cabinet walls to increase damping and to again add with combating cabinet resonance. 25mm dacron like stuffing is added as well. Below is a rough autodesk Inventor mock up of the speaker cabinet. Will upload a sketch up render later. PARTS The Brilliant Scanspeak Illuminator 18wu/4747t00, 6.5in aluminion cone woofer pulls bass duty. Midrange is handled by a German made Accuton C50 2in (50mm) Ceramic driver Finally the Serbian made Raal Ribbon Tweeter handles the highs, this is a remarkable tweeter having a very wide response on 2-100khz, it boasts a ridiculous 13,000g's of acceleration, with a aluminium ribbon that weighs less than the air that is displaces. Finally a High End Crossover designed by Rick Craig, Ties it all together. This is probably the most crucial part of a good speaker, driver integration is key here. I am also planning on building my own amplifier from a kit soon so stay posted.
  23. I don't have enough space for the vive and I also want some thing with more screen real estate
  24. I have the opportunity to get either a used acer x34 for $1050 aud ($800usd) MSRP is ~1429 aud Or a Dell U3415w for $850aud (648 usd) MSRP is $1299 aud I am torn between the 2 options, on one hand i like the Idea of G-syn and the fact the the x34 is overclockable to 100hz, while the Dell monitor is stuck at 60hz with no G-sync. Has anyone had experience with these monitors and is x34 worth it over the Dell monitor. For reference I currently use a Asus PB278Q 27" 1440p monitor. I also have a GTX 1080 ti, so I would have no issue running any games.
  25. Oppo Pm3 would is probably my favourite closed back headphone in that budget. They are planar magnetic with a sound signature leaning towards the warm side, with good deep bass, a very nice midrange but a somewhat rolled off treble (still good though). The Bowers and Wilkins P7 are another good headphone in that price range. Compared to the Oppo PM3's They have a stronger more punchy bass response, but at the expense of bass accuracy and clarity, Midrange is also more recessed. They are a slightly V shaped headphone meaning that bass and treble are boosted in comparison to the Mids. Still a good headphone though, they have a very good build quality, with very little plastic. Soundstage and Treble are in my opinion better on these than the Oppo, But I personally still prefer the Oppo's. Both are quite comfortable, with the Oppo PM3 in my opinion being slightly more comfortable due to them having softer earpads, they also isolated better for me. Sennheiser Momentum are another headphone in this price range although it has been along time since I listed to it so I can't really draw a comparison it and the other Headphones I listed.
×