Happy1992

After a direct restart it did not turn off. Later during the day I did a quick further restart and it worked fine. I am starting to think that the screen takes longer to boot up than the PC needs (i can visually see the checks going through on the motherboard and then failing on the VGA topic). If at a later point I restart while the screen is already on I do not get this error anymore. So seems like it might be irrelevant and can be ignored

Hello, I have changed my setup a bit over the past days. Changed from 3 Screens to one Odyssey G9. Now, at startup, I keep having my LED indicator on the Motherbaord for VGA on. This is my motherboard: TUF_GAMING_B550-PLUS My PC is starting normally, and everything is visible on my screen. I dont seem to have any lasting issues or anything like that right now. It just the LED that is shining a bright white on the Motherboard. Anyone got an idea what could be causing this and how I can fix it?

Based on the first 2 comments it does really look like going with a 34" Ultrawide Monitor + one side monitor to consume content might indeed be the best option I have. Is there any hard recommendation in the 34" area? I was checking the G7 before the G9, would that one already be the most recommended one? Edit: Correction, the G5 34", seems like the G7 does not actually have a 34"

Hello, I have been, like many, in home office for a while now. For home office I tend to use my 3 screens, middle my remote desktop, left my email/calendar and on the right side my Firefox/Spotify where I watch sth work-unrelated when I need a break. Now, I have been considering getting an ultra-wide monitor, like the G9, that I could use pretty much as 3 screens for work and also elevate my gaming at the same time. The thing I am unsure about here is how this behaves with games. When gaming, especially on games where I dont need to fully concentrate all the time on the game, say an MMO, I like to have a stream or youtube video or whatever running on my right monitor. Obviously if I replace my 3 monitors for the G9 the game would use the full length (I would assume). The question is now, can I somehow still opt into having the mid section used by a game (say 27 to 34" of the middle section) and then have a browser to the right/left if I want to? Is this possible without having an ugly windows tab top bar due to using "windowed mode" of the respective game, or without it being super clunky to play around with and get it working like this? Or might it be the smarter choice to go for a 34" monitor and keep one of my 3 monitors as this "browser" monitor? Thank you for any help Essentially sth like I try to show in the picture I attached

Hello, I recently bought a blue yeti nano. Have been relatively happy with it so far if there wouldnt be this problem with its software. "Blue Sherpa" keeps crashing for me the instant I open it which makes it impossible for me to configure the mic to my liking, like for example reducing its sensitivity so that not everything around me can be heard. I googled this issue and only find one reddit post that does not really help. They do mention to use it through the Logitech GHub app, but oddly enough the blue yeti nano does not show up in the GHub at all for me. I have tried several things, like unplugging and replugging, reinstalling Blue Sherpa and GHub, uninstalling the device and reconnecting and all of these things have not done anything to remove the issue. Currently at a bit of a loss on how to continue and would be very thankful for any help I can get. Regards,

I used the PC now for a full day and all seems to work fine. Seems like the BIOS Update was indeed the culprit here. Thanks for the help guys

Did the EZ Flash and update went through without a problem. I will check throughout the day if the USB issue re-appears or not. Thanks for the help so far, fingers crossed that this fixed it

Could I also just use this?

Oh I see you wrote to NOT "turn on the computer". Alright, so I guess I shut it off, press the button and let it do its thing until the blinking stops and then I start up the PC

Thank you, thats helpful. One thing I am not clear on: They say to turn off PC and then plug in the USB and press that Flashback button. Does this Flashback button start the PC and then does its thing and I wait until the blinking stops? Or do I have to start up the PC and sit in BIOS settings when I do the button/USB thing? Also, is it better/safer to unplug any other USB device in the meantime?

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/TUF-Gaming/TUF-GAMING-B550-PLUS/HelpDesk_BIOS/ Ah yes, I can see it here, also specifically mentions the USB issue. Now... I have actually never updated my BIOS so no clue how to perform this. Can any of you point me into the direction of a usable guide? Would be very much appreciated. Thanks for the help so far!

I got the ASUS TUF B550-PLUS GAMING

Very interesting.... So I am actually able to reproduce the issue when I go into a google hangouts call and start sharing my screen. I had my Device Manager open at the same time to see what it was telling me and I noticed the things in the screenshot showing up with a yellow triangle. The moment I end the call everything starts working again and it does not keep disconnecting/reconnecting me over and over again.

I dont have a USB Hub or anything like that, so each USB slot is really only used for one thing. All USB ports disconnect and reconnect simultaneously, its not like it goes one by one if thats what you mean. It does happen at random frequencies though if thats what you mean. For example right now I have had no issue since my meeting where I was screen sharing.

I got 750 Watt be quiet! Straight Power 11, 80 Plus Gold. Had a 750W PSU before too and same amount of USB plugs and worked fine, would find that a bit odd. Anyhow, I have connected: - Mouse - Keyboard Logitech Dongle for Wireless connection - Amp for my headphones - Cable in the front USB C to charge my iPad (currently not charging anything) - Type C charger, also currently not charging anything - USB to Micro USB to charge keyboard, currently also not charging And thats it

Morning, Bought a new PC (pre-built) that arrived yesterday. Worked fine all evening until at some point it started randomly disconnecting all my USB Ports at once and then reconnecting them a few seconds later. In one case no reconnect happened and I had to restart my PC. I thought might be some needed driver update so I performed all open Windows updates. Seemed fine so far until I just had a meeting where I was sharing my screen and the same thing happened again, so the issue does not seem resolved. I checked the Event Viewer and can find this: Windows cannot store Bluetooth authentication codes (link keys) on the local adapter. Bluetooth keyboards might not work in the system BIOS during start-up. Its Level "Information" with "Source" BTHUSB, "Event" is 18. At the same time I am also getting this: The local adapter does not support an important Low Energy controller state to support peripheral mode. The minimum required supported state mask is 0x2491f7fffff; got 0x1fffffff. Low Energy peripheral role functionality will not be available. Level: Warning; Source: BTHUSB; Event ID: 34. I checked my power settings (this is not a laptop btw) and they are set to "High Performance". In Advanced Power Settings USB Settings "USB selective suspended setting" is set to Disabled. I have also revoked the rights for the PC to power off USB hubs in the device manager. Anyone got any idea what could be causing this and how I can fix it? The Build: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X TUF Gaming B550-PLUS 32GB RAM RTX 3070 from Palit Appreciate any help!

So what would be the best way for me to watch the movie then? I tried casting it from PC to TV but that only works for a few minuts, then stops. Guess hook it up to Laptop or PC directly is the only way?

Hey, Hope I am at the right spot here to ask this question.... I got my hands on the new 4K LOTR movies and wanted to watch them on my big TV (LG OLED65B9DLA). For some reason though the movie starts buffering after around 2min and keep continuing after running for another ~30s to then crash and tell me that the media cant be played. I tried it on my PC, everything works perfectly fine. I am not entirely sure what is causing this and how I could fix it... I have watched other 4K movies from my USB Drive to the TV and that worked without a problem, so I am thinking this might be the HDD that uses USB2.0 that is too slow to transfer the data? The stick has USB3.0, and as mentioned I had no issues with that (its too small to fit the movie). Would welcome any advice on how to get this fixed.

I dont have the issue right now anymore, but atm PPT is at 59%, TDC at 31% and EDC at 24%. If the issue happens again I will make sure to check those values. I do not think I have fast boot on atm, but I will check that out. Edit: Checked, no fast boot was on

Morning, Around 2-3d ago I had this weird issue where I started a round of Valorant and for whatever reason my PC was only ditching out 20-30fps and the experience was very laggy. After a quick look into HW Monitor I realized that 4 of my cores were heavily underclocked to around 500MHz. After a quick PC restart the issue fixed itself and the cores were back to their usual 3900-4200 MHz. Fastforward to today, I am just doing home office and suddenly notice my PC being extremly slow. After checking that no windows update or anything was running I again checked HW Monitor and saw the same thing, just this time all my cores where clocked at 552MHz (see Screenshot). My first thought was that the CPU was underclocking itself due to overheating, but a quick look at the CPU Temp showed that it was at a reasonable 43° (sadly dont have a screenshot of it). Again, I did a quick PC restart and now everythign seems to be back to normal. I do, however, worry that this will not be the last time I see this. Looking into my HWMonitor while doing basic home office work, I do also notice that the Core clock speed is fluctiating extremly hard, something the CPU was not doing a few weeks ago. A few weeks ago the clock speed was usually always running at its highest 4300MHz which I first thought was actually some sort of issue but found out was considered "normal". Now the clock speeds are going up and down constantly, hiting as low as 2874MHz and as high as 4366MHz. The temps while idle also fluctuate a lot, ranging from 51° to peeks at 65°. If I run something like Cinebench, the Clock speed lowers itself to around 3800MHz and my Temps stay stable at 65°, with a score of 4297. Can anyone explain to me what exactly is going on here? System Specs: Motherboard: X570 Aorus Elite CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X RAM: 16GB GPU: RTX 2070 Super Case: Fractal Design Define R6 CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Fan Setup: 3 Noctua intake fans at the front (2x NF-S12A PWM, 1x Noctua NF-P12), 1x Exhaust Fan in the back (1x NF-S12A PWM) and still have 2 Coolers available that I could add, in case anyone thinks I need it (pls let me know where). Would appreciate any sort of help.

So I reopened the case and switched the connectors once. Now both fans are reacting to the changes I make. Now I am wondering at how man RPM the pump should be at. I have it at extreme right now and it doesnt seem noisy at all. I read different things on the internet so I am kinda unsure here... Also the idle temp of my CPU is a big questionmark for me. The 45-50 i mentioned are more of a 45-55 now. That happens just with regular surfing on the internet, checking a youtube video etc... This seems high to me, but is it actually?

Hello, I bought a new PC and built this entire rig together today. Everything seems to work fine so far, but one thing that I noticed from the start is the fact that the PC seems to be quite loud, even during idle. Just by listening and checking the different fans I am quite certain that the loudness comes from the CPU Cooler which is a Corsair H115i Pro Liquid cooler. I installed the Corsair iCUE program to check it out and can see Fan #1 and Fand #2 were going at 1100-1200 RPM, Pump at 2000 with the Temp being 30-31°. I set the setting to "Quiet" and fan #2 went down to 400-500 RPM while the Pump wnet down to around 1000-1100 RPM. While I do already hear a difference Fan #1 just refuses to change its speed. It is still at 1100-1200RPM constantly. I have tired to override it several times and just cant seem to be able to lower it. At the same time HW Monitor reports that my CPU is at ~45-50° while idle most of the time. During a stress test that I did before for 5min the max peek was 66° amd averaged at around 60°. Judging by this I do not think something is mounted wrongly or anything like that. Please let me know if you think differently. Anyhow, my question is: How do I get the fans to quite down. Especially why cant Fan #1 seem to be configurable? Thanks for your feedback!

You think it will be better then the Ryzen that is currently being talked about everywhere? I always only had Intel CPU + Nvidia GPU. I want to stick to Nvidia since I have good experience with them. Back in the days I was always told to not use AMD CPU with Nvidia GPU. This has changed though afaik, so the Ryzen CPU would be an option, right? I dont really have a budget set, but anything between 1k-1,5k€ I am totally fine spending. I'd just like to basically "future" proof my rig for the next ~3y which is my usual upgrade time window anyways

I could, in theory. Whats coming out then? New graphic cards? Doesnt that usually take a while again until there are some decently cooled ones?

Judging by this I should consider rebuilding my entire rig pretty much, do I see that correctly? Any recommendations?