AdamGrant82

It's a great case the fans it came with wasn't much but I didn't care because I planned on replacing them fans anyway. Then again I never seen any case come with great fans. I did get $15 for the fans the case came with so I got some of my money back lol

My custom build that took me over two years to build I think I may have gone overboard lol. Specs: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 12 core G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 64GB 3600MHz F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC(Two kits) ASUS Dual AMD Radeon RX 6750 XT OC Edition ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler ASUS ROG-Thor 850 Watt 80+ Platinum PSU ASUS ROG Strix Scope TKL Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (Using a wireless gaming keyboard at the moment Logitech G613) ASUS ROG Gladius II Wireless Gaming Mouse Storage: Kingston KC3000 1024GB NVMe SSD(SKC300) Team Group T-FORCE VULCAN Z 2.5" 2TB SATA III(game storage) Seagate Exos 16TB ST16000NM000J Hard Drive WD Black 8TB Performance Hard Drive Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Gigaworks T 40 Series II speakers Windows 10 Pro Xbox Wireless Controller Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Cooling: 6 CORSAIR ML120 RGB Elite, Magnetic Levitation RGB Fan with AirGuide

Well that sensor like everything made these days was made in "China" no shock it isn't working right Lol I did run a full surface scan on this hard drive with two different software and both said the drive passed even the WD software passed. I'm still trying to get a replacement from the place I got the drive from I had the drive for only a month or so they messaged me saying they will be sending me a replacement after I sent them the screenshots showing the failed S.M.A.R.T. readings. There's no way this drive could be sold like this with a faulty sensor(if that's what is really going on) because you never know for sure. No ones going to trust it once they see the failed readings even if it goes back in the safe zone. I will keep watching this drive but if I do get the replacement I will be removing this drive and it will become just a spare maybe for a external hard drive where nothing important will be stored on.

The helium levels are all over the map I'm watching the levels and just before I went to bed last night it went from 6% to 63% and now it's showing 1% helium levels. It seems like every time I check the levels it's showing a different level depending on what the drive's doing it seems like at idle is when the reading is at it's lowest but when I put a load on the drive the level goes up past 50% only to fall once it's idle again I don't get that. I started to copy all the files over from the second drive to test the read/write speeds and so far the speeds are the same as when I got the drive no change(The drive I moved the data over to) and it went from 1% to 55% after 20 minutes when I checked again. Could this be a faulty sensor? I already moved all the data from this drive to another one of the drives in the computer(I have five 8TB drives total) I'm trying to get a replacement for this drive the other three of the same model are showing about the same power on hours but they are showing 100% health but will be watching them closely.

If the seal is broken in the hard drive I didn't notice it the drive looks good no scratches or anything in the drive itself and it was holding at 100% for almost a month then just like that it dropped to 45% last night then 6% today and failed the S.M.A.R.T. readings. I was looking this up and some say once it reaches 0% the drives firmware will park the read heads and the drive will no longer work. But other's say it may still work and could fail shortly after reaching 0% and should be replaced. Others say it will work fine maybe not as fast as before but it all depends on the drives firmware and if the helium levels are really falling or not. The drives temps are not going up and the read/write speeds seem to be the same as they were before(Benchmarks testing) I will test the read/write speeds after I'm done testing the drive(I'll copy about 7TB to the drive and move the 7TB to a second drive to check speeds) I did see one person say this could be a faulty sensor that reads the helium levels as falling when they are not. I just have no real way of knowing, is there any signs I should know about with these drives that will tell me the readings are right? One person also said not to turn off the computer the drive's in because if the drive reaches 0% helium levels the drive may never spin up again.

I have four helium filled 8TB hard drives and one air filled 8TB drive in my Lenovo ThinkStation converted into a home NAS and one of the helium filled hard drive shows a helium level of 6% when last night it was showing the level was 45% About a month ago this drive was showing 100% helium level. I have since moved all the files to another drive in the computer but should I be worried this drive will fail? The drives now failing S.M.A.R.T. due to the helium levels. The drive in question is the HGST Ultrastar He8 HUH728080ALE604 8TB enterprise hard drive.

I have the rad installed the way it shows on Youtube I seen a few videos that said if you can't install it on top then install it on front with the tubes down. Also since I'm about 6-7 feet away from my computer having a wireless keyboard and mouse is a must have. I haven't had any problems with the keyboard and mouse yet. Battery life is great it's been over a year and the battery in the keyboard is still going and I get about 3-4 weeks on a charge on the mouse. No complaints yet with the keyboard and mouse and I bought the mouse about 6 months ago the keyboard just over a year.

I found most onboard sound just couldn't power my headphones with any real volume and most didn't sound that good. I just have to have the best sound I can get maybe I'm fussy lol

It took almost two years of planning and buying parts one at a time as I could afford them but it's now done what does everyone think? Spec's: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X G.SKILL Trident Z Neo 32GB 3600MHz F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler Seasonic FOCUS 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe SSD WD Black 8TB Performance Hard Drive WD8001FZBX WD Black 4TB Performance Hard Drive WD4005FZBX Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Sound BlasterX H6 USB Gaming Headset Creative Gigaworks T 40 Series II speakers Pioneer Slim Portable BD/DVD/CD Burner Windows 10 Pro Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Logitech G903 LIGHTSPEED Wireless Gaming Mouse Xbox Wireless Controller Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Cooling: 6 CORSAIR SP120 RGB ELITE fans with Lighting Node CORE

I tried three kits one wasn't stable at 3200MHz at all but if lowered to 3133MHz there was no problem the second kit was the same wasn't stable at all with A-XMP turned on past 3000MHz then there's this kit. I'm running Prime95 stress test on the whole system for the last 2 hours and not one problem the kit I'm using now is the first RGB memory. Running Windows built in memory testing also reports no problems. If there was memory problems wouldn't it show if running a full system stress test? I used Prime95 many times in the past and it never took long to fail and stop the test due to hardware failure and it's been running for about 2 hours now and not one problem so I think I can rule out memory problems. One the other 2 kits it failed Prime95 within 20 minutes due to hardware failure it never lasted over 2 hours I guess I can rule out the memory and CPU

The first 4-6 months the motherboard was working fine without problems but the last 3 months or so have been nothing but random posting problems the last two weeks being the worst. The problem: I don't overclock my hardware I turn on A-XMP and leave it at that but now A-XMP is causing it to fail post with the DRAM LED stuck on so I had to turn it off and set the memory to 3200MHz that fixed the problem but not for long it started to fail post with three short beeps and DRAM LED stuck on last week was the worst it would not post at all no matter what I did after fighting with the computer for 20-30 minutes I cleared the CMOS it posted but it's taking around 21 seconds to post. The weirdest problem I was getting was the LED's first it was stuck on DRAM then it stuck on VGA then on CPU and back to DRAM like the motherboard can't make up it's mind what's wrong each post. Before it got this bad if I was to go in the BIOS I didn't have to make any changes and click save and restart it would cause the computer to fail to post with random Debug LED's stuck on mostly DRAM was on. I had to set the memory voltage to 1.4V cause for some reason if set to AUTO the board sets the memory to 1.2V at start up and it fails to post everytime. I have tried three different memory kits and each had their own set of problems but this kit I'm using now is the worst. G. Skill listed the kit as supported but MSI don't all three kits I tried are on G.Skills list as supported but not on MSI's I had big problems with MSI motherboards in the past and only bought this one cause the other one I wanted was out of stock. I now have to downclock the memory to 3133MHz to get it to even post I can't even test the memory cause this board will not load from any USB bootable drive or CD/DVD unless it's a Windows install drive the board don't even see the Memtest bootable flash drive or even the CD I even have a Windows 10 recovery DVD and it won't even load from that also. but if I put in the Windows install drive it loads fine so weird. Once the computer is booted into Windows it works without any problems so it's a posting problem I have the newest BIOS installed I am lost what I should do next my only option now that I can see is buy another motherboard and this time it won't be by MSI Spec's: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core, 16-Thread Processor G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory(F4-3200C16D-32GTZR) MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Liquid Cooler Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD(Game storage) Western Digital 8TB hard drive(WDC WD80EDAZ) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Sound BlasterX H6 USB Gaming Headset SteelSeries Stratus Duo Wireless Gaming Controller Pioneer Slim Portable BD/DVD/CD Burner Model BDR-XD07B ASUS PCE-AX3000 WiFi 6 PCIe Adapter Windows 10 Pro Logitech G613 Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Logitech G903 LIGHTSPEED Wireless Gaming Mouse with HERO 16K Sensor Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: 6X Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 V2 ARGB fans

Still upgrading soon will be done. Spec's so far: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory(F4-3200C16D-32GTZR) MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD(Game storage) Western Digital 8TB hard drive(WDC WD80EDAZ) (Upgrading) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Sound BlasterX H6 USB Gaming Headset Windows 10 Pro SteelSeries Stratus Duo Wireless Gaming Controller Logitech M720 Triathlon Wireless Optical Mouse (Upgrading) Looking for a good wireless gaming keyboard Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: 6X Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 V2 ARGB fans

I had memory related problems with two different motherboard and two different memory kits the only part that's the same is the CPU and yes the memory kit is listed as supported I made sure before I ordered it but I found another post this guy was having the same problem right down to the CPU debug LED and not posting and the comments are saying it's the CPU is on it's last legs and could die soon I had the CPU Vcore set to auto for most of the time I had it and auto seems to set the CPU core voltage to 1.4-1.43V I changed it to offset mode with auto voltage and a -0.100 offset after it didn't post this morning I went back into the settings and changed the offset to -0.200 and lowered the memory to 3000MHz running Prime95 now and over a hour and it's fine the temps went way down on auto settings the temps were at 70C-76C under full load now while running Prime95 it's at 50C-53C Here's the link to the other post https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/346646-pc-wont-boot-cpu-ez-debug-led

I'm having a random problem with the computer not posting with the CPU debug LED lit after a forced restart it posts but now I'm getting a message that says "Memory over clock has failed" but I only turned on XMP I have the memory voltage set to 1.35V I had to manually set the timings of the memory kit to match what they are rated for but it seems like 3200MHz and even 3133MHz is a no go it's stable with memtest86 at 3200 but still won't post at random with the CPU debug LED on and there's only one short beep once the CPU debug LEDs stays on but other times there no beeps at all and no picture on the screen I'm lost it can't be the memory if it passes memtest86 right? I ran a full system stress test for over two hours and it always passes even with the memory at 3200MHz I never had a computer fight me this much before. I could put the old memory kit back in but even that kit won't run stable at rated speed no matter what motherboard is used. I have already replaced all the hardware in my computer besides the CPU and I was having random memory related problems with this CPU in my other system. Once the computer's booted into Windows it works fine it's only that random time once the computers been off all night could I have a CPU problem? The memory kit is supported by my motherboard I checked on the MSI's site for my board. Spec's: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Liquid Cooler Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Western Digital Blue 4TB hard drive(upgrading to 8TB) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Windows 10 Pro Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: Phanteks SK120 DRGB PWM FAN X4

That sound card blows the onboard sound out of the water heck the onboard sound can't even run my 32ohm headphones with any real volume