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About Beerzerker

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    Wherever you're not..... Wherever that may be.....
  • Biography
    Still kickin...
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    Working hard at hardly working and it ain't working out.....


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    X470 Tachi Ultimate
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    Albino with little beady eyes
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  1. @seagate_surfer The work has begun. A little cleanup work in the dishwasher to make it ready and then I removed the socket. Next up - Cleaning up the old solder from the board and hoping all the pads are OK when done. With some luck this battlestation will be ready for action soon!
  2. If self driving cars were the big concern of my life I'd have it made - Seriously. I'll reiterate the potential of abuse is there and no matter who's pushing it, that exists and that's just the truth of it. Doesn't help it's being both, developed and proposed by the same gov entitiy that doesn't have such a great track record with it's own citizens and one would be foolish to even think they'd be treated any better. Considering where it's coming from I highly suspect an alterior motive somewhere in the works. Maybe it's not doable to that end as of now but do remember this is a new kind of tech and whether they are revealing all there is to the new tech or not (To me) is indeed suspect. And you can keep the self-driving cars, I prefer to be in control "Thank you very much".
  3. To be clear - Nothing wrong with asking questions and I'm not saying anything about anyone, it's something that can be learned easily. I learned it by observing and doing, asking questions..... The same thing you're doing now and that's good. I'll be straight to it - You can actually do it yourself and observe these effects firshand if you want, I suggest starting off with Dry Ice like I did, doesn't get too cold, the dry ice (DICE) is easy to get, not that expensive and has the same basic effects LN2 does. If you have any specific questions you can shoot me a PM, I'll try to answer any questions you have or may even point you in a direction that would be of benefit to you.
  4. If purely simply speaking of an item for use with LN2 it's already being done by a few enthusiasts, I'm one of them. If inquiring about a contraption that can use LN2 with daily machines it has been attempted but has also been proven as "Not Practical". The supply of LN2 to the system for cooling is a big limiting factor along with problems with condensaton that comes from the cooling effect of LN2 as it expands, the same effect you have when you set a glass of ice water out. You also can't really recirculate LN2 once it's been used, it takes a specially made setup just to extract it from atmosphere and store it for use, much larger and way more power hungry than the average person would ever have. I'm sure it's possible to recirculate it but even that setup would be massive and expensive to operate. For what I do with it I have to prep the board vs condensation, it can potentially kill a system while in use and yes, some of us have indeed lost hardware simply due to the amount of condensation that occurs when it gets where it doesn't need to be. For it to be useable it would have to have a cheap cost to purchase the hardware, ease of getting and recovering/recycling the cooling agent, prep against the expected condensation and show reliability while in use.
  5. Chances are since it's an HP it only has the basic BIOS layout and nothing else available for options. Pre-built setups were never meant for OC'ing and that's why the BIOS is just the basics to get it going and no more. I'd actually be suprised if it did have options for tweaking but to date I've yet to see an HP with it.
  6. If you don't know already, something you can try that would be beneficial to learn is how to solder. Helpful in that you can actually repair things yourself and save money, plus you can pickup things like a board or GPU that needs a repair and buy it dirt-cheap, then fix it. I've scored some really good deals all because an item needed a repair done that was soldering related and got it working again. Just a few weeks ago I repaired an otherwise "Dead" GTX 970 that had blown some of it's MOSFETs and a fuse. Robbed a truly dead card that had these and did the fix, now I have a working card for about half or even less then I could have bought it for in working condition. Same thing with boards, sometimes you can spot one that has the same basic issue and can be fixed as well. It's a skill you can learn by doing, the equipment can be a little expensive at first (Starting out) but once you have it the payback is almost immediate. Best of all it's something that you can do from now on, applies to more than just computing itself and can probrably make a little dough along the way if you want it to become such a thing. I taught myself how over time and with tips I picked up along the way from others I'm actually "Competent" and right now, I'm preparing to replace a damaged CPU socket on an AM4 board. I'm salvaging a board that had cost $350 US when I got it and is still expensive now but with this I can save it and not have to replace it (Even though I did earlier in this case). A good starter setup can cost below $100 US easily if you know what to look for and where to find it. This is what I've been using for a while now and was well worth the investment. US 2in1 SMD Rework Soldering Station Hot Air Gun And Soldering Iron Separately | eBay In your case you can look around, I'm sure there is something like it available but can't say how expensive it would be where you are. Note that for doing a socket replacement you'd need another piece or two but that can be tackled later, just picking up the basics of soldering itself is the thing when starting out.
  7. I'll address each point by the numbers. 1: That is the problem here - You know like everyone else does China isn't exactly a "Friendly" place to be and such regimes act accordingly to their core values. All that includes all the historically proven as fact over time nefarious stuff they do to suit their own end(s). Nothing any of us can do about that except be aware of it and realize it for what it truly is. 2: With all due respect: I can't believe I'm actually seeing this - In the way it's posted you actually sound like a Communist/Chinese sympathiser with this statement. No, it's based on years of factually proven actions the current regime has taken against others and even it's own that adds up to the sum of "You just can't trust them". Saying the West is making assumptions just because they are the West is in itself proves nothing to that end. To be fair: The West itself isn't innocent by any measure, I'll never claim that but to say it's all based on suspicion and nothing else, well, that's just foolish. There are reasons for everything, including such suspicion whether you believe it well founded or not and to be fair yet again, that goes for both sides, not just the one. 3: I have to agree with this - No sense in placing a total twit in charge of trying to decide things about it if they don't even understand it themselves. 4: I can see that being just so, Apple has always been "Touchy" about it's stuff like Sony is for example and you know how jealous Sony can be about things. In short: I have suspicions about it myself and the real intent behind it. Even if it's intent for now is honest that doesn't mean at some point it can't be twisted into something it was never meant to be and far worse than it's being described as now. Tech meant for peaceful means eventually being used as a weapon..... Just remember good old human nature is always the driving force behind who does what for whatever reason(s) and that's a universal thing all are subject to with none immune. You best believe it's happened before because it has and will again, whether it's over this or something else.
  8. Hmmm.... I'll have to check on that. Not doubting you since I had always thought most if not all of the AM4 chipsets were made by the same company.
  9. There is a marked difference between the 2xxx and 3xxx chips in terms of RAM speed achieved. The CPU makes the biggest difference here, not so much the board but it's a factor too. The 3700X should be capable of 3200 with either board but for options, tweaking and so on the X570 board is the better choice to use. Also, since you're talking about a workstation the X570 would have more useful features too such as extra USB ports and so on. I'd check things over for features between board makes and models and whatever has what you need, go with it because once you buy the board it's yours. Just doesn't make sense to pay for something that comes up short on what you really may need or want. Buy it once, buy it right.
  10. Had to do with the quality of the chip as it's binned by the manufacturer . The same binning process used for a CPU is also done with a chipset and if the particular chip doesn't measure up to X570 standards for example, it gets named as a B450 and it's specs are set that way to guarantee it will perform as stated. If it's a really underperforming chip when tested it gets called and spec'ed as something of an even lesser chipset model, it all depends on how good the chip is once it's made and checked. . All chips when the manufacturing process is done has to go through the binning process and the goal is to get as many good chips (X570's) as possible but rather than toss all that fails to meet the specs of an X570 they just use them as lesser chipsets by name. The other factor is in how the manufacturer of a board themselves classify and spec them, some tend to be more generous than others with the specs but they don't always measure up according to the tweaking options it has. Some make it, some don't.
  11. Actually relidding could solve problems with stuff like poor contact to the cooler/block if it's required. I recall having to do that a few times after a delid, the cooler in use just didn't sit correctly on the die and eventually became a matter of finding the right cooler/block to use on a delidded chip. I do agree in most cases doing a complete reseal isn't needed, just the corners to hold the lid in place will do fine.
  12. I'm well aware of what JEDEC is about, doesn't mean though the sticks are compatable with the board. @ the OP: Let us know how it goes and if the new set doesn't solve the problem, just RMA the board and be done with it instead of wasting more time over it.
  13. Need to point out that's not a real factor because when you apply the gasket maker it comes out of the tube in a liquid form and it's not an actual gasket (yet). The excess, if any will squeeze out allowing the CPU lid to make contact with the die as it should. I will say if they simply glob it on and then let it sit, that is a different story. This is how I've always done it with 100% success so far since day one of doing it and I've been doing this for a long time now. First: I'll make sure the old gasket material is cleaned off the chip's PCB and the lid, then apply the correct amount of TIM to the chip's die. Next, I'll apply a very thin bead/film of gasket maker to the lid only, then let that sit out for about 5 minutes, then I carefully set the lid back on the chip. Next, if it's an Intel chip I then place the CPU in the CPU socket of the board and I'll latch it down as if you intend to install the cooler right away but I simply leave it alone at that point, making sure the lid doesn't slide/shift off center to the die as I close the CPU latch. It's very important to keep the lid centered to the chip as you close the latch down. If it's an AMD chip I'll let it sit for a little longer, then place it into the socket and place the cooler on it (No TIM applied) and just latch it down. Alternately you can set the chip on a flat surface pins down and simply place an object with a bit of weight to it on the lid to push it down and let the gasket making material cure that way, making sure the lid remains centered on the chip. TBH setting an object on it is probrably the best way to go here, at least you can see if the lid remains centered. In either case I'll leave it all to sit overnight. The next morning I'll use TIM the lid (Intel) or remove the cooler/object and use TIM on the lid (AMD) then set it up and test the system to see what it does.
  14. Remove the watch battery you see in the board for about 5 minutes and then set it back in. BE SURE all power is disabled to the board during this time or it's current settings will not clear out. You'll first remove power from the system, then remove the battery. Once it's sat for 5 minutes, set the battery back in, restore power to the system (All In that order) and see what it does. Just know you'll have to reset a few things, mainly the system clock/ time but that can also be done in the OS once you're in it.