JapanDave

Just about to finish my first ever hard tube build and I started to calculate how much just the water cooling cost and it really surprised me. Why it surprised me is b/c I was buying parts as I needed them over the course of 2 months while building it. Also I should say I went a little silly using 4 radiators, but I did want to fill out the Thermaltake Core P7 case, so I know I did not go the typical water cooling route. Anyway, Bitspower G1/4" Hexagon Flow Indicator, Digital RGB x 2 = $110 Thermaltake Distro Pacific DP100-D5 Plus 360mm 200ml x 1 = $250 Thermaltake 16 mm Pacific C-PRO G1/4 Fitting x 30 = $300 Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS Chrome G1/4 90 Degree x 13 = $130 Bitspower Touchaqua G1/4" Female to Female Fitting x 4 = $20 Thermaltake Pacific W5 CPU Water Block - Black x 1 = $103 Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Plus Pump/Reservoir Combo x 1 = $190 Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS R33 500ml Reservoir x 1 = $57 Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS R15 200ml Reservoir x 1 = $45 Thermaltake V-Tubler PETG (16mm) OD 1000mm 4 Pack x 5 = $90 Bitspower Touchaqua Digit Thermal Sensor x 1 = $27 Bitspower Rotary G1/4" drain valve x 4 = $192 EK-CoolStream CE 560 (Quad) Radiator x 2 = $260 EK-CoolStream XE 480 (Quad) Radiator x 1 = $140 EK-CoolStream XE 120 (Single) Radiator x 1 = $63 Thermaltake Riing Trio 140mm Fan x 9 = $450 Thermaltake Riing Trio 12 RGB TT Premium Edition 120mm Fan x 6 = $240 EVGA HYDRO COPPER Waterblock for EVGA / NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti x 1 = $140 For a grand total of $2,807 on water cooling products alone. It is just about finished and there really is no reason for this post other than to log the parts I used so when I do this again I will know what I am in for. Cheers

I am not so sure, I opened up the top and in the process snapped one of the RGB wires. I went ahead and bought another one, fingers crossed this one will be OK.

I have a brand spanking new Pacific PR22-D5 Plus and it is leaking out the top of the reservoir. Fluid actually coming out of the little hole where the RGB cable comes out. Anyone had issues like this. Looks like it could be bad seal. I really don't want to have to buy a new one.

Yes I do have compressed air, that is something I did not think of.

Here is a pic of the spillage. I used a heap of cue tips and isopropyl alcohol (and some beer) to clean up. So I am confident this should be enough.

I should of probably mentioned this in the first post, but it was only a few splashes from a fitting about 20cm away to the side of the MOBO, with the MOBO orientated vertically. As for using the alcohol, just dowse the whole MOBO? Or just the parts where I can see there may have been coolant there?

I thoroughly screwed my AIO by putting in coolant in mine. Gunked up real fast.

Hey all,Finally got my water loop finishe and pressur tested air first and looked like I was ready to go. So I filled the loop with Thermaltake C1000 Pure Clear Coolant and after an hour a fitting gave way and I got a little coolant on the mother board. It is ok b/c I was still just running the pump with everything else unplugged.The MOBO is now dry and I wiped off as much of it as I could see.My question, do I have to get into all the nooks and crannies and wipe off the coolant residue? Will dried coolant residue from this coolant be an issue? Or is the only thing import here is that it is completely dry?

I just realized that the EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA is 12v RGB and the TT controller and ASUS MOBO uses the 5v RGB header, which means I have another two 12v RGB headers, so I should be able to connect it to that. The issue now becomes, where do I buy a 4 pin RGB cable? No cable came with the GPU.

Hey, thanks for the answer. It has two RGB headers and I need them for 13 fans, water block and two water pumps. If there is a way to connect two TT controllers to use just one header, that would work.

Hey All, How do you connect a non Thermaltake RGB device to a Thermaltake controller? I just recived and EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 ULTRA and it looks like it has a RGB header. I have a TT controller and I was wondering how you would connect to that? Any help would be much appreciated.

I know what you are saying, but say someone like me who lives in Japan a Thermaltake Core P7 costs me $1,070 US dollars (I think it is about $300 US dollars on Amazon USA). Finding the absolute cheapest parts without considering how much it costs to get it to you (And that is the main reason it costs so much in Japan). My water cooling cost for my system, 4 x Radiators fans, pipiing, 3 x pumps, reservoirs and fittings are way over $3K US dollars. You know how much it costs to ship Ekwb products to Japan? Anyway, this is not a price contest and if it cost the OP that much, then thats fine IMO. That said, I am not disagreeing with you, but hope you have a more open mind that not everyone is able to source absolute cheapest price.

I really should of mentioned that actually 5 of them are 4 x 120mm fans to go on 1 x EK-CoolStream XE 480 (Quad) and a single 120mm fan to go on 1 x single fan rad EK-CoolStream XE 120 (Single) The other two rads are 2 x 140mm to go on EK-CoolStream CE 560 (Quad) rads. It is for a Core P7 case. I do want the cooling performance, but I know it is overkill and I am going for a hard tube loop that hopefully will look good. Thanks for help. My issue is using a splitter like the one I linked will effectively reduce the power output by a factor of 3? Or is that not how they work? I have the beer ready!!! EDIT: Oh , I realized that the controllers are powered by sata power cable.

Hey all, It has been a while since I built a PC and the RGB side of things is giving me grief. This is purely a question on how to connect the following hardware to their respective RGB connectors. This is the hardware I am dealing with, 13 x Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB TT Premium Edition 120mm fans 1 x Thermaltake Pacific W5 CPU Water Block (RGB) 2 x Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Plus Addressable RGB And I plan to connect them with this, 2 x Thermaltake TT Sync SATA Powered 9 Port Addressable LED Controller TT Premium Edition The Motherboard is this, ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ATX Motherboard And these are the available fan connectors, CPU_FAN AIO_FAN CHA_FAN1 CHA_FAN2 M.2_FAN WATER_PUMP (Not sure if this is a fan, but it is 4 pin like a fan. Going off what I have researched I think I can use 2 x Thermaltake TT LED Controller to handle the 16 RGB leads, but to do that I believe that you need to plug in 6 x PWN cables to the mother which I think need to go to a 4 pin fan connector. So, I don't know what to do? Should I be using a USB fan slitter like this, 4 pin PWM Fan Cable 1 to 3 Ways Splitter? Or will that not be able to power the TT controler? Any help would much appreciated.

Thanks for the help Mick, very much appreciated.

Thanks for the reply. And glad I will be able to do this. I also found this pic on Thermaltake's web page and one of the reservoir is plumbed backwards,

Thanks for the help, I tested them to see if they leak and I was actually surprised that even when you pull them apart to make the gap even bigger, there were no leaks at all. And it Looks like they are designed like this

Thanks so much for the help.

Hey All, One question regarding a Pacific R33 Reservoir. I am running two Pacific PR22-D5 Plus pumps along with this reservoir, but wanted to plumb the tubes opposite to what the water flow is on the instructions. Being that I will have two other reservoirs to adjust coolant volume I was thinking of full to the top and therefore I don't really think it is relevant which way I run the loop through it. Is there an issue with 1. Running the Reservoir full to the top? 2. Running the loop opposite to what is stated in the manual? Any help is much appreciated.

Just curious as to if this PCIE Extension cable with a EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti?It says it is rated at 64GB/s, but I wanted to check with the experts and make sure I won't be bottle necking my GPU by using it.Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hey all, Thermaltake right angle fittings have some play in them after screwing them in. They sort of pull out around the swivel part and a gap of around 1mm to 2mm appears. When straight out of the package there is no play, it only happens when you swivel the head, like when installing them into a tight spot and just turn the base of the fitting. This is the fitting, https://www.thermaltake.com/pacific-g1-4-90-degree-adapter-rose-gold.html