butre

depends. does the computer meet the minimum specs for windows 10?

yes it is. you used to see it all the time on amd boards from around 2010-ish. it's unusual (and today almost unheard of) and never well documented but I have seen instances where a new gpu requires a new bios on multiple occasions. it's why some laptops will let you get away with putting just about any graphics card in it and some will bitch about anything but the original one too.

sometimes yeah but other times you'll need a bios update to run newer graphics cards. off the top of my head I know an m5a99x evo won't run anything newer than an HD 7000 series without a bios update

it likely isn't working because it uses a legacy boot mode. install windows from that computer and it should work

it'll drive it, but it's not going to be pretty. that's an AV receiver, not a headphone amp.

you ground stuff by connecting them to ground. connecting them to just any old piece of metal doesn't do anything.

all weapons should be legal for this purpose. nuke duels would be this country's greatest pastime.

heads seasonic, tails cooler master, edge be quiet

all 3 of those are good, flip a coin.

if you have to cheap out on a power supply buy a used one from a trusted OEM. I'm pretty partial to FSP group whenever I need a psu for next to nothing. you can usually find them on ebay for >$40. just make sure you pick something that meets your wattage requirements and has all the connectors you need. an 80+ rating is a good bonus but most oem power supplies don't get rated.

you'll want to keep it, more recent windows 10 installers create it as a more fail-safe recovery method.

nah, it needs to be heat pipes. the thermal conductivity of copper is too low for that sort of application. you wouldn't need to solder them (or want to for that matter), just thermal epoxy and a good fit up should do the trick. you'll want something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32295488005.html you'll have to find one for your mounting pattern or make/modify one to fit

what cpu are you running? if it's ryzen using ddr4 4000 will screw you

that case will be enough heatsink to run that hardware passively without having to resort to weird stuff like mineral oil. just run a heat pipe or two across it

2009 or 2010 ish I bought a phenom II 955be and a motherboard that I knew could unlock it, and stuck an 8800gts on it temporarily, which eventually got upgraded to an hd6870 once I could afford it. in 2011 the motherboard died and I replaced it with a asus m5a99x evo and in 2012 the gpu died and was replaced with an hd7850. that configuration lasted me until early 2019 before the cpu died (was unlocked to 6 cores and cranked up to 4.3 ghz, so pretty inevitable) at which point it got replaced with an FX 4100 until I managed to save up for my current system and retired this one to my server closet. at one point while it was in there partially disassembled the gpu fell 6 feet and broke a couple mosfets off (they had heatsinks glued on) so I stuck a cheapo r9 390 in it here's a picture of that system as it sits today: original configuration didn't last long, but the final config made it 7 years.

hop on a linux machine, type cat /dev/random close your eyes and bash the keyboard for 30 seconds. see which method nets you the most characters in that timeframe e: intended to hit the edit button. my bad

computers can do addition and subtraction. nothing more, nothing less. sometimes it uses that basic math in interesting ways, such as right here, right now, displaying this post on this page, but all it can do is addition and subtraction. it is significantly faster at addition and subtraction than we are, but as soon as you abstract it, or worse yet introduce an element of randomness, humans become significantly faster.

don't try, you'll break it. thermal adhesive has a high breakdown temperature (who would've thought) so just heating it is insufficient. you may have luck with chemically removing the adhesive but without knowing the exact materials used I can't offer any advise on what solvent might work.

Hardware Motherboard: MSI Z77a1-G41 CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 Cooling: intel stock for an i5 3330 with kryonaut under it, plus some delta afb1212h fans Case: Cooler Master Stacker 830 + 2x Startech HSB430SATBK hot swap enclosures Network: integrated GPU: whatever the igpu on a 2120 is RAM: 16gb g.skill ddr3 1600 PSU: Antec neo eco 500w? the psu is as old as some of the people on this forum. technically meets 80+, but predates it, so it's not certified. HBA: 6x onboard sata plus 6x off a generic sata 3.0 card I got cheap at a garage sale Boot drive: Apacer 16gb SSD (salvaged from a ticketmaster thin client) Drives: 8 x 2TB HP MB2000GCEHK (used drives from a proliant) Hot Spares: 2 x 2TB HP MB2000GCEHK (same as above) Total capacity: 20TB (Raw) 11.2 (Usable) score: 33.2710646669 OR 46.0517018599 depending on whether hot spares count Software and Configuration: freenas. 4+4 drive raid z1 (2 vdevs, 4 drives each), a couple hot spares, and a dream Usage: stores music, movies, adult videos, backups, and downloads. Backup: this is my backup Photos: I cleaned up the cables in here since I took this picture, and the keyboard is no longer plugged in because it really doesn't need to be. this was from while I was setting it back up the used drives have been dead reliable for quite a while by the way. also if you think that case is ugly now, you should've seen it when I pulled it out of storage. thing was filled to the brim with hantavirus

you need an (ON)/OFF toggle switch, rather than an ON/OFF. the parenthesis around it indicates that it's a momentary switch. (ON)/OFF toggles are kinda weird but you can get them. something like in this link should work for you. https://smile.amazon.com/Morris-Products-Momentary-Contact-Toggle/dp/B005GDG2EY/ alternatively with some control logic you could use an ON/ON toggle so that one position is on while the other is off, where the (ON)/OFF switch will bounce back to the off position when you let go. I think just a simple momentary relay should work.

needed a reboot but it mostly survived. that one stick was fried, no longer detected by any computer, but using another module worked. could've been a lot worse and a lot more expensive for me than it was.

once was diagnosing system instability, pulled a ram stick while it was powered on. that made it real unstable.

I personally run a beyerdynamic dt990 with a lav mic zip tied to the cord. I can wholeheartedly recommend this setup.

measure the window, pop it out, flatten anything on the panel that needs flattening, and epoxy a pane of glass at least an inch larger in both directions to the inside of the panel.

you don't need a whole lot of mounting pressure for direct die cooling. just the weight of the cooler is plenty. if this is for a short term overclocking session, set the pc on it's side, add a bit of blue tac on the corners of the substrate, and simply place the cooler on top. if this is for long term use I have had luck using thermal tape to keep lightweight heatsinks on. you could almost certainly get away with one of dynatron's skived heatsinks