Stahlmann

Why thousands of $?
 
There are basically two ways to go about it:
 
If input lag is your absolute priority, set an FPS cap (preferably in-game, but if there is no setting, use driver-side cap or RTSS) at the point where your GPU is running at about 90% utilization, and enable GPU driver-side low latency mode to get rid of the render queue and disable G-Sync. This will give you the absolute minimum amount of input lag possible.
 
However, if you also want to prevent tearing or stuttering, or just want more general settings that will work in ANY game, cap your fps at 3 below the max refresh rate (again, preferably in-game, but if there is no setting, use driver-side cap or RTSS), enable driver-side low latency mode, enable G-sync, enable driver-side v-sync, disable v-sync in-game. Input lag will be slightly higher than the above method, but you will always get good results without having to tinker for every specific game.

So you're basically asking for a 34" 1440p 240Hz ultrawide monitor with good HDR. So OLED it is. Your usage sounds similar to mine and I haven't run into any burn-in issues with my OLED displays. I've been using the C2 as my main monitor for almost 2 years now.
 
New OLEDs in the 38" ultrawide format are still only 1440p, so you're sacrificing PPI compared to 34", so I'd advise against them.
 
Personally, I'd wait until there are more reviews for different models from different brands using these panels. The differences aren't that big most of the time though. At the very least, I'd wait until Monitors Unboxed get their hands on a 34" 240Hz QD OLED model.
 
Here is a review of the Asus model using the LG WOLED 34" 1440p 240Hz panel:
 

The problem is that we don't know what color space the iPad is showing off. Without knowing that, we can't recommend a matching monitor. But if you just want an accurate monitor, you have two options:
 
Option 1:
The (imo) worse option is to go with a pre-calibrated monitor. The issue here is that they're often still not calibrated to a professional standard, while you still have to pay for the calibration process. Plus, monitor colors can "drift" slightly over time, meaning it won't be accurate forever.
 
Examples of such a monitor would be any of LG's UN-series or Asus' ProArt models.
 
Option 2:
The (imo) better option is to buy a colorimeter and calibrate your monitor yourself. By using a colorimeter, you can get pretty much every IPS monitor out there to perfect professional levels of color accuracy in the sRGB/rec.709 color space, or even the wider D65-P3 / Adobe RGB color spaces if the monitor has such a wide color gamut.
 
An example of such a device would be the Calibrite Display SL.
And DisplayCAL is great free software to accompany the device.
 
And here is a small guide if that's the route you're going:
 
That being said, it won't get you any closer to matching the iPad if the iPad isn't accurate to begin with.

I have used HDR a lot in Windows 11, and on 5 different monitors and with 2 different PCs - all worked perfectly as intended. Never had to restart or do any weird shenanigans to make HDR work. 

I have used HDR on: 
Samsung Odyssey CRG9
Samsung Odyssey G9
Samsung Odyssey Neo G7
Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 G95NC 
LG CX (OLED TV) 

How I use HDR: 
First I turn on HDR in Windows settings (to put the monitor into HDR mode). Then I download the HDR Calibration tool from Microsoft Store and use it to create a profile for all my monitors. Then, with HDR enabled in Windows, I simply start whatever game I wanna play. Then the first time I boot my game in HDR, I usually just have to go into the games settings and enable HDR. And there we go, simple as that, works everytime. 

If doing the same does not work, I would suspect the monitor you're using to have an old buggy / unstable firmware. I know Samsung loves pumping out fixes for their monitors long time after release. I see you have a G5 as well; try firmware update it. 

Maybe try 1080p and set the scaling to integer in your GPU drivers. Higher non-integer resolutions can look way worse than lower integer resolutions.
 
From a quick google search the game seems to have a resolution scaling option. If that's true, that's your best option. Set it to 90% or 80% and the game will render at a lower resolution, but the UI will still render in crisp 4K.

Maybe try 1080p and set the scaling to integer in your GPU drivers. Higher non-integer resolutions can look way worse than lower integer resolutions.
 
From a quick google search the game seems to have a resolution scaling option. If that's true, that's your best option. Set it to 90% or 80% and the game will render at a lower resolution, but the UI will still render in crisp 4K.

I don't play most of the game series I grew up with anymore. But it's not that I deliberately quit. It's just that I lost interest in those types of games when I grew up, and even the newer entries in the Battlefield or Call of Duty series for example just don't appeal to me anymore. I'm not boycotting any game series or developer/publisher, but it's harder for me to convince myself to buy games from EA or Ubisoft. If they still release a great game, I will probably buy it.
 
Voting with your wallet doesn't just mean not buying games, it also means buying games that are moving in the right direction.
 
Ultimately, in the long run, developers and major publishers will simply follow the money, and hopefully that means that social justice warriors who have no real skills to contribute to a better game and are just doing it to send a message will be filtered out.

If your complaint is bad subpixel rendering, the proper fix is with the subpixel rendering, not the subpixel layout.
 
I just found this thread(?) discussing it and asking MS for a solution:
https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys/issues/25595
 
Edit: forgot to quote/reply to it, but I use the OLED TV primarily as a PC display.

Not necessarily franchises specifically but I'm definitely wary of a lot of developers/publishers comparatively to the past.
 
That said, here are a few:
I haven't played a Battlefield game since BF2, BF 2142, and BC1. No interest in Diablo 4, despite adoring D2 and thinking D3 was fine. Played Counterstrike religiously from the original to source but havent gone back since. No EA sports games since 2015 or so. Assassin's Creed I stopped at AC3. Probably some more but I never really thought about it before. I very much vote with my wallet though, so if a developer/publisher crosses any lines or gets too greedy I'm less likely to bother with their product, but will let independent reviews persuade me otherwise at times.

Watch in cinema or fullscreen mode - problem solved. Imo YouTube's player is by far the best of all the current streaming platforms.

I agree with this completely. I hated how the smoothing worked on my TV from 2008, so I always turned it off. The modern LG OLEDs have some crazy good interpolation! I found myself bumping it up and it still looked fine. I watch a lot of animated movies with my kids and smoothing was almost a requirement to enjoy the movies. Once I turned on smoothing and realize the panning and fast action are less jarring, I didn't want to turn it off.

Watch in cinema or fullscreen mode - problem solved. Imo YouTube's player is by far the best of all the current streaming platforms.

If the monitor is only used for CS2, then get the Viewsonic XG2431. It's a 24" 1080p 240Hz IPS monitor that offers everything that could make an impact for games like Counter Strike. On top of that it has an amazing backlight strobing feature that brings top-tier motion performance. It's one of the very few "Blur Busters certified" monitors out there.

Watch in cinema or fullscreen mode - problem solved. Imo YouTube's player is by far the best of all the current streaming platforms.

Watch in cinema or fullscreen mode - problem solved. Imo YouTube's player is by far the best of all the current streaming platforms.

Especially since you also do work, I'd recommend to go for regular LCD monitors. The Samsung Odyssey Neo G7 is a good Mini LED VA monitor. If you want to still try your luck with OLED, go for one of the 32" 4K models.

Then contact Asus directly. Provide them with the serial number and your Amazon receipt and they should have a service center that covers your region. The monitor is obviously broken, so going for a repair/replacement at Asus' expense is the easiest and cheapest solution.

The AOC monitor is the only good HDR option in this budget so far. There might be other models, but there haven't been any reviews yet. I wouldn't trust any HDR certification in this price range unless it has been verified by a 3rd party reviewer.

You didn't mention what kind of games you play. If you're more into slower paced games, you'll get more out of a decent HDR display than if you're squeezing every last millisecond out of response times. There is at least one good, budget-friendly HDR monitor on the market now. Might be worth checking out. Basically, you're trading off a bit of response time to get decent HDR on a $280 budget.
 
 
There is not much difference between a contrast ratio of 800:1 and 1000:1. Both are equally bad when compared to stronger alternatives like VA, let alone OLED. This LG option is still better than the two Dell and MSI models mentioned above, despite the lower contrast.

"Your unpopular (non-political, non-offensive) opinions!"
There are too many people getting offended, get some perspective and stop taking yourself so seriously.
 
 
 

Agreed.  Sex scenes is movies is pointless and just takes away from the movie.

Have you taken a look at the LG 27GP850-B?   I have two and I love them.  I went through over 10 different monitors from MSI, ASUS and Samsung before I landed on the LG 27GP850-B.  Backlight bleed is something that bothers me a lot and the two LG 27GP850-B I have are almost flawless while my LG 32GQ850-B ( 32'' 240hz nano IPS ) has technology that basically removes backlight bleed and IPS glow called ATW polarizer.
I know its neither of your monitors in the original post but I am just throwing another option out there. The more the better 🙂
I spent over 4 months going through monitors before landing on this. My slight autism makes me very picky on certain things.
 
 

I can't wait until the government completely kills interoperability between different government agencies because every branch has its own flavor of Linux and uses different software for menial tasks. And suddenly the tax office can't communicate with Customs anymore because they can't open each other's files. Man, that would be so German.

I can't wait until the government completely kills interoperability between different government agencies because every branch has its own flavor of Linux and uses different software for menial tasks. And suddenly the tax office can't communicate with Customs anymore because they can't open each other's files. Man, that would be so German.

Yes, we're already a few years down the road where cars are getting worse with each new generation because they're moving further and further away from making functionality a priority. Replacing a foolproof physical mirror with a camera and display that can both fail is not the way to go. Or replacing dedicated buttons for AC control or windscreen wipers with a submenu on a touch screen...
 
Not to mention that every tiny bit of useless technology they put in jacks up the price, which you can easily see by some models like the Audi A6 (which represented a standard mid-range family wagon some years ago) starting at 57,000 € nowadays in it's base configuration. And if you know German car brands, base configuration means you're lucky if it includes AC. EVERYTHING is optional and configurable. So a decent configuration with maybe a different color will quickly go over 60-70K. What normal family can afford a 70K car?
 
So while some people may not be bothered by these "features", they're still paying for them.