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About SkyPhantom

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  • Gender
  • Location


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI Tomohawk b450 Max
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws 3200 2 x 8 gb
  • GPU
    Powercolor Re Devil Rx 5700 xt
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C Tempered Glass
  • Storage
    Samsung 860 Evo 500gb, Seagate Barracuda 2tb
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650X
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248QE, AOC e2270sw
  • Cooling
    Wraith Stealth
  • Keyboard
    Hyperx Alloy FPS Pro
  • Mouse
    Logitech g502 SE Hero
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

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  1. I've charged mine 4 times in the year that I've had it... (I also don't use it very often) Anyway in normal use that 40 hour claim seems to hold up.
  2. Do you have your original windows key, you should be able to re activate it with it. If the key doesn't work call up microsoft and see if they can sort it out, although doing what I told you to do shouldn't deactivate windows. I don't know anything about the powershell thing. Windows is usually linked to your motherboard or microsoft account and only deactivates when there's a hardware change. It might also just require you to just click something on the activation page in settings.
  3. Thank you! Also the drive passed the long generic test in Seatools. I also noticed that it says that the drive is on firmware revision 0001, so I guess I should probably update it when I get the chance right?
  4. Yes I am using Seatools to run the tests. The problem isn't any noises its making it's the vibrations that I can sometimes feel at my desk when it's working.
  5. My hard drive isn't making any noises like those on the page. It passed all the tests except the long generic, which I'm doing right now. The video linked is my phone recording the hard drive with the case open while running this test (ignore the pots and pans in the background). There was one instance where one of the sounds was noticeably louder which I didn't catch. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GCJIXF59PkgonnOCeQtkK4PCP1NvuY9C/view?usp=drivesdk
  6. Ah, well it was worth a shot. Sounds like some sort of windows issue. If you can, try to roll back any windows updates. If that doesn't work try to reinstall windows using a windows iso. You can get the iso by downloading and running the media creation tool from Microsoft's website. Then you can either put it on to a flash drive (flash drive will probably get wiped) or save it to your computer to "put onto a CD later" or whatever. I would choose the latter option. There's no way to lose data unless something goes catastrophically wrong, but I would recommend backing up anything important if you can (it's good to have backups anyway). Now if you've downloaded the iso to your computer, go into the root of the iso file and run the setup.exe file. You can then choose whether or not you want to download updates, so select what you want and go onto the next page. On this next page you should be able to click "choose what to keep" near the top right. You can then choose to keep your files or not and you can start reinstalling windows. This may take a little while, but since you weren't able to reset the PC through windows this is the only other option to reinstall without losing files. If you choose to put it on a flash drive just go into the bios and boot from the flash drive and the rest of the steps should be the same.
  7. Well that's unfortunate, because I just bought it a month ago to replace a failing drive. The drive is a 2tb Seagate Barracuda by the way. I suppose if I have to replace it I should go WD, because both drives were Seagate. I don't really want it to come to that, because WD drives are almost twice as expensive at Microcenter. I try to loosen the screw first and see if that helps (it already has rubber washers).
  8. Whenever my hard drive spins up, even slightly, to launch something or install something I feel vibrations on my desk. I feel vibrations when touching my mouse, desk, and PC case (Fractal Design Meshify C). I tried reinstalling it into a different slot in the drive cage, but that didn't work. Anybody know what I should do?
  9. If you linked your microsoft account to Windows 10 on the old drive then it problabaly saved your preferences and applied them when you linked your Microsoft account on the new drive.
  10. Try going into task manager and restarting windows explorer.
  11. 40% seems about right, even for modded. Minecraft doesn't use alot of graphics power normally, unless you are using high resolution texture packs or demanding shaders. Minecraft mostly relies on CPU and RAM especially in modded.
  12. I had an rx 570 for over a year and I've had an rx 5700 xt for a few months. The trick is to do some research and read the release notes before you upgrade drivers. If you can do that its mostly smooth sailing and it's great as far as price to performance if you don't care about all the nvidia features.
  13. Thanks everyone for the info. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be voiding and warrenties on my system or my friend's. Also I was just genuinely curious, so thanks everyone for responding.
  14. Disclaimer: I'm posting this in General Discussion because it pertains to multiple topics My friend got an Alienware Aurora for Christmas (Even though I told him I'd build him a PC) and he's been having problems where the fan will randomly ramp up. I remember in the Secret Shopper series Linus did that they had a similar problem with their Alienware. In the video the problem disappeared when they tried to overclock the system. My question is if I were to overclock the CPU to try to get rid of the problem, would that void the warranty. I ask this, because I believe there is a Teckquicke or something that mentions this. This also got me thinking about other overclocks and how their warrenties apply. Like if I were to XMP overclock my RAM does that void any warrenties or do I have to go beyond that or does it not matter at all. Or if I overclock my GPU does that void the warranty? What if the GPU is factory overclocked and I overclock it farther? What if I slightly overclock my CPU for a short amount of time? Basically what I'm getting at is what overclocking voids warrenties and if I were to RMA how would they know it was overclocked. I'm new to PC building and I want to know how warrenties work in case I have to RMA in the future.