peterpepo

6 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Your K70 has years and years of wear on the switches, making them feel different from new. The MX Mini seems to be using some rubber dome chicklet design which is going to be a very different typing experience with a lot less key travel.

 

My personal subjective opinion would be to get something else but I have no direct recommendations for you.

Hello @Bananasplit_00, I bought the Mx Mechanical, not the keys (chiclet) from logitech.
I confused it in the original post, but have corrected it. I also put the picture in, just to be sure.

While it is true, that my k70 is quite old now. It has been like that since the day 1 - very light. I believe there is roughly 1 year between my and my brother's k70s and the difference has also been there from the very beginning.

I would also love your recommendations / tips.

Hello,

coming from K70-rgb cherry mx brown (orig. version, before facelift), I recently purchase MX Mechanical Mini - tactile for 120€.

While I always found my k70rgb - cherry mx brown very light - I feel like I caress keys instead of pushing them down - otherwise I bottom it out and can hear very distinctive plastic(keycap) bumping metal body of keyboard. The sound of these switches is quite sharp even if not bottoming out.

It is even ligther then k70rgb - cherry mx brown - v2 (not the oldest, not the latest pro revision), which my brother bought.

There two sets of switches don't seem even comparable. Browns in V2 have much more noticable "tactile" feedback, are harder to press (greater actuation force) and I don't bottom it out that much.

Anyway, I wanted to try TKL/70% version to reduce my back pain (right arm stretched far right, if my B-key is set to middle of the screen) so I went with MX Keys Mini from logitech during latest discount on amazon.

Now these are different story. I went with tactile version - which should be comparable to cherrymx browns.

I find the keys quite stiff - comparing to both mx browns boards I have at home. I have to put more force (to extend that I realize it) into typing, my left ring finger started to hurt after couple days using it. The sound is much nicer (I find mx browns harsh and annoying now). I also find the K70 quiet "deep" comparing to low-profile loti now.

Also I find the mx mechanical keys too crammed, although the board is exactly same width as my qwerty part of k70. I don't like arrows inside the board and home/end button in that arrangement.

Athe the same time I can already feel my right arm extending too much after getting used to 70% layout over couple of days. TKL might be an answer.

TLDR: Has anyone tried and can comment on MX mechanical? Did I get spoiled by cherrymx browns, or are they not how are supposed to be? Are the logitech tactile too hard, or is it just me? Is the mx mechanical how it is supposed to be, and mxbrowns wrong?

Would you keep it or return, while I can?

Seasonic Focus GX650 Gold or Corsair RM650x (2018)? They cost the same.

From differences what I've found:

Focus GX650: 120mm fan, fluid bearing, no inline capacitors

RM650x: 140mm fan (theoretically quieter), no fluid bearing, short cables with bulky inline caps.

47 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Is the enermax revolution D.F. available? Then you have a psu for the next 10 years :p.

unfortunately not

32 minutes ago, Downkey said:

country?

Slovakia

27 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

You could run this system off a 450 watt PSU if you want, and still have headroom. It would likely consume about 350 watts under load.

 

So, are you saying, that 650W is perfectly fine? I really don't want to push the luck and go below manufacturers recommendation 500W. From what I understood, even that RX580 is overclocked and has higher tdp than stock card.

Brands available: Evga, Corsair, Seasonic, Fortron, Evolveo, Silverstone, Asus, Bitfeenix, CM, Cougar, FractalDesign, Gigabyte, Zalman, SilentiumPC.

From the offer, I like Corsair RMx(2018), Seasonic Focus GX gold, maybe there are other hidden gems :)

I'm trying to solve the wattage. 550/650/750 - with no upgrade plans, but good sleep, that I'm not pushing it to absolute limit.

Hello everyone,

my brothers gaming machine psu blew up yesterday.

Please can you recommend a psu for i7-4770k (running turbo in load, no additional overclock) + RX580 Nitro+ LE (https://www.sapphiretech.com/en/consumer/nitro-rx-580-8g-g5-le_c).

There is couple of non powerhungry components: 2xDDR3 sticks, 2x140mm fan, 2x120mm fan, couple led strips, 2xHDD, 1xSata SSD.

GPU Manufacturer recommends 500W+ psu.

I've been looking on 650W and 750W models. Spending couple € more isn't a problem, on the other hand I don't want to be wasteful. There are no future upgrades planned for this already old machine.

At the same time, I don't want to push it to the limit and rather would have some headroom.

Thanks

This is laptop, exchanging cpu woudln't be easy.
Windows is clean install, 1 week old.

W81 key? what the windows key on your keyboard? 

Windows 8.1 serial key

I have feeling, that after win10 upgrade, your original key gets invalidated. But I hope, I'm wrong.

Not without a reinstall

I have no problem reinstalling from scratch. Actually, I always do clean install, I don't trust upgrade / downgrade process.

Question is, whether my w81 key will still work.

Sumitmak, this is the exact problem, I have.

Now I double check after "turning off" my pc. But once, I turned off pc, left for a weekend trip, and when I got back, it was still running in this weird state

Aren't you using Norton antivirus as well ? I have feeling, that these problems escalated since I installed norton. 3 days after clean install, no problems. Norton installed, freezing. Unfortunatelly, I cannot find anything helpful on the internet.

reset the cmos

Exactly, what I did.
Prior to clean installation, which I did last Sunday, I flashed latest bios, cleared cmos via clear button on my mobo and set up everything from scratch.

I'm starting to think about going back to windows8.1. Unfortunatelly, 30 days already passed. Is it possible ?

Hello, thanks for all the answers.
@R2D2_WD - I will check it. I have feeling, that the drive cage itself is a problem. It come a little bit pre-bent, right out of the box (brand new pc case). Hdd seems seated in caddy firmly. Problem is, that the caddy itself isn't 100% snug in the cage. So when i try to move / press on the caddy, it moves inside the cage.

My question is therefore mainly concentrating on how to fix CAGE -> TRAY.

Anyway, i will run it through Data Lifeguard Diagnostics to see in what state the harddrive is atm.

@Jetster - i have not tried removing it, but it definitely is coming from that part of pc case. No any chance of coming from any of the coolers or so..

Hello,
I am researching if anyone have simmilar problems than me.
I am almost happy user of Corsair Obsidian 450D case. My main concern is rattling noise coming from the hard drive cage. I have 2TB WD Black installed in centre position of 3 bay cage installed in bottom of the case.
Most of time, my pc is quiet, as I use SSD primarly. But when i start game, BF4 for example i hear noise from hdd. That is quiet normal, I just get used to ssd dead silent performance.

The problem occurs when i run antivirus, which means, whole hdd is being scanned. Rattling noise starts to occur. I am 99% sure, it's coming from hdd cage, not from the hdd itself. Hdd naturaly create vibrations, which this super fancy toolless mechanism isn't able absorb / compensate.

I even attached the hdd with screws to the plastic tray.

Have someone experienced, and hopefully solved something simmillar ? You can buy new computer, new case, but you can't buy your precious data once the hdd dies. 
Btw, i am planning to buy another 2tb and set the drives in RAID1, but before this I would like to resolve this problem, as I don't consider it normal.

I just bought another 840 EVO 250 GB, as I have only good experience with it. I have been using 500gb version for about half year without any problems.
Anyway, I am happy to see this, that this drive is not 'deprecated' and Samsung stil does care about it

Sounds to me like the laptop got hit or moved while the drive was spinning. But cant you get a hdd on warranty if it's only 1/2 year old?

Maybe, I will try to, but anyway - no time for being without laptop, and according to forums, Lenovo support in general is poor in Slovakia.

Then I really doubt, that they will accept hdd only, as I have to fix the laptop now, so I can't give it away for month or so.

I did a quick google search on your machine and according to the lenovo spec site you already have a 16Gb cashing ssd, By that might just be an option on selected models. 

 

Well if it was my machine i would get rid of the dvd-rom and put the HDD there and then a small SDD for OS and programs, If that is not an option then i would go for the Toshiba sshd.

I think, that this is only for specific models of hard drives.

Before, there was WD Scopio Black 500Gb, which is so damaged, that it started "scratching". It sounds like header is touching platters. Pretty weird for hdd 1/2 year old.

Hey all,
thanks for replies. I coudln't decide which one. But then I succeeded to agree with person for who this computer is, that ssd will be fine.
I bought 250 GB Samsung Evo 840 as primary hard drive. Then I bought a 1 TB External Hdd from WD.
It's bit over the budget, and summed cost equals to 500GB Samsung Evo, but I think, this way, we will get best of both worlds.

Fast and snappy operating systems and loading of frequently used data, and high capacity, reliable storage for data not so frequently used + regular backups.

Hello guys,

I am looking for new drive my notebook. I have narrowed my alternatives to these two, please don't tell me "buy SSD instead".

It's for notebook, the budget is already exceeded, so buying 500GB ssd is not possible.

Notebook is Lenovo Thinkpad E530, running Win7. Most of time, this is used to access internet, office, and watch some youtube, family photos and videos..

My two proposed disk. Which one would you choose, and why ?

5400 RPM Toshiba SSHD (8GB sshd)

http://www.alza.sk/toshiba-solid-state-hybrid-drive-500gb-d2143240.htm

7200 RPM Wd Black HDD

http://www.alza.sk/western-digital-2-5-black-mobile-750gb-16mb-cache-d455008.htm

Thanks

Also, what you're saying in some of your sentences don't makesense, what do you mean I won't be asking? I won't be asking what?

Aah, sorry, I'm not native english speaker / writer.

I meaned it this way: You should try to swap PSU for another one. But you probably don't have, because if you had spare psu to test with, there won't be this diagnostics and guessing whether it is psu failing or not.

I hope, it's clear now

You could try another power supply, which you probably don't have, because you won't be asking.
Try removing graphics card, that will cut the load on psu a bit, and you will see if it still restarts.

Btw, my personal tip is psu also. I got office computer like this once with note 'PSU failing'. At first, there were blown caps on mobo, which i fixed and computer was running fine. I could even put it under stress test for hour, system ran fine. But psu started failing after a while. Totaly random reboots. Sometimes during game, sometimes in ms office... No signs of problem, then click, computer reboot. It looked like I pulled it from wall and put it back, but faster.

Also, please don't short pins PSU on unless you know what you're doing.

Don't worry. The PSU was completely out of the case, not connected to anything. It was pins PSU-ON and black wire...

Anyway, my seasonic does exactly this same noise as your probably does. At first, when i start computer definitely can hear it. Then after a while, it disappers in my ears, when i concetrate on game, work or whatever, but then I realize "what the f...", it's grinding my ears.

Hello, are there anyone who could contribute to this thread ?
Is it worth to RMA the PSU ? It's making constant high pitch noise.. It doesn't change with load, only when i fully load my PC, stop hear it, what could be caused by fans going harder.

I am asking, because i don't want to be 30 days without PSU completely, and then get it back with words "this noise isn't reason to RMA"... I have read somewhere, that high efficiency PSU's with F2C, what this seasonic should have, tend do make some kind of noise due to very fast switching and adapting psu to current load.

Btw, it whines without any load too. It's not mobo-psu combination. I removed psu, started it by shorting pins PSU-ON... It whines also

I had to actually uninstall it, I'd give it a try.

Sack,

what was the problem / issue in your case. Was your computer turning on from complete power-off state (S5), or was it waking the computer from sleep ?

Try changing The CMOS Battery. Maybe its discharged and after some days it cant Give enough power to the CMOS , so the system boots up to prevent the loss of the bios settings

Bios is holding it's settings perfectly, no settings loosing or whatever, but I will try this as a next step.

I have the same problem occassionally OP, it could just be your power from your wall dropping, causing your PC to start itself?

Don't know. Brother has some power supply, different mobo in the same house, working just fine, no booting without reason.

After a power-cut when the power returns, some PCs can restart/turn on by themselves

Any way to avoid this ? I am really getting tired of this issue. Can't be PSU or MOBO be faulty, so it "decides" to boot ?

Remount your motherboard to your case and make sure to use all of the risers. It could be shorting.

I am using Corsair Obsidian 450d case. There are no riser screws in the package, however all places, where motherboard can raise are higher, so the board doesn't touch the plate. Risers are "embedded" in the case.

I might have a solution for you, this has also happened to me, turned my computer completely off, only to find it running in the morning. The culprit was a piece of software from the MB manufacture (Asus) it was some kind of charging app or something, so it got powered on by the fact that there was a USB device attached.

 

If you have a software suite or anything that came from your MB manufacture uninstall it and see if this solves your troubles.

MSI Supercharger - some fancy stuff to enable charging of iDevices. I am not using it anyway, and it's disabled. But i will try this as a next step.

By now, i tried clearing cmos -> loading bios defaults -> setting my values again.

We will see.. The worst is, that i cannot simulate this. The problem appears totally randomly.

Do you turn it off at the mains? could litterly be your power settings in bios set to "Power on" after power resume? and somone is unplugging it / replugging it? at the wall i mean! 

Nope.

I turn via Right Click on windows logo -> shutdown. 

No unplugging from the wall.

And bios is set to POWER OFF after power resume.