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peterpepo

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Everything posted by peterpepo

  1. Hello @Bananasplit_00, I bought the Mx Mechanical, not the keys (chiclet) from logitech. I confused it in the original post, but have corrected it. I also put the picture in, just to be sure. While it is true, that my k70 is quite old now. It has been like that since the day 1 - very light. I believe there is roughly 1 year between my and my brother's k70s and the difference has also been there from the very beginning. I would also love your recommendations / tips.
  2. Hello, coming from K70-rgb cherry mx brown (orig. version, before facelift), I recently purchase MX Mechanical Mini - tactile for 120€. While I always found my k70rgb - cherry mx brown very light - I feel like I caress keys instead of pushing them down - otherwise I bottom it out and can hear very distinctive plastic(keycap) bumping metal body of keyboard. The sound of these switches is quite sharp even if not bottoming out. It is even ligther then k70rgb - cherry mx brown - v2 (not the oldest, not the latest pro revision), which my brother bought. There two sets of switches don't seem even comparable. Browns in V2 have much more noticable "tactile" feedback, are harder to press (greater actuation force) and I don't bottom it out that much. Anyway, I wanted to try TKL/70% version to reduce my back pain (right arm stretched far right, if my B-key is set to middle of the screen) so I went with MX Keys Mini from logitech during latest discount on amazon. Now these are different story. I went with tactile version - which should be comparable to cherrymx browns. I find the keys quite stiff - comparing to both mx browns boards I have at home. I have to put more force (to extend that I realize it) into typing, my left ring finger started to hurt after couple days using it. The sound is much nicer (I find mx browns harsh and annoying now). I also find the K70 quiet "deep" comparing to low-profile loti now. Also I find the mx mechanical keys too crammed, although the board is exactly same width as my qwerty part of k70. I don't like arrows inside the board and home/end button in that arrangement. Athe the same time I can already feel my right arm extending too much after getting used to 70% layout over couple of days. TKL might be an answer. TLDR: Has anyone tried and can comment on MX mechanical? Did I get spoiled by cherrymx browns, or are they not how are supposed to be? Are the logitech tactile too hard, or is it just me? Is the mx mechanical how it is supposed to be, and mxbrowns wrong? Would you keep it or return, while I can?
  3. Seasonic Focus GX650 Gold or Corsair RM650x (2018)? They cost the same. From differences what I've found: Focus GX650: 120mm fan, fluid bearing, no inline capacitors RM650x: 140mm fan (theoretically quieter), no fluid bearing, short cables with bulky inline caps.
  4. unfortunately not Slovakia So, are you saying, that 650W is perfectly fine? I really don't want to push the luck and go below manufacturers recommendation 500W. From what I understood, even that RX580 is overclocked and has higher tdp than stock card. Brands available: Evga, Corsair, Seasonic, Fortron, Evolveo, Silverstone, Asus, Bitfeenix, CM, Cougar, FractalDesign, Gigabyte, Zalman, SilentiumPC. From the offer, I like Corsair RMx(2018), Seasonic Focus GX gold, maybe there are other hidden gems :) I'm trying to solve the wattage. 550/650/750 - with no upgrade plans, but good sleep, that I'm not pushing it to absolute limit.
  5. Hello everyone, my brothers gaming machine psu blew up yesterday. Please can you recommend a psu for i7-4770k (running turbo in load, no additional overclock) + RX580 Nitro+ LE (https://www.sapphiretech.com/en/consumer/nitro-rx-580-8g-g5-le_c). There is couple of non powerhungry components: 2xDDR3 sticks, 2x140mm fan, 2x120mm fan, couple led strips, 2xHDD, 1xSata SSD. GPU Manufacturer recommends 500W+ psu. I've been looking on 650W and 750W models. Spending couple € more isn't a problem, on the other hand I don't want to be wasteful. There are no future upgrades planned for this already old machine. At the same time, I don't want to push it to the limit and rather would have some headroom. Thanks
  6. This is laptop, exchanging cpu woudln't be easy. Windows is clean install, 1 week old.
  7. Hi All, I am running 6 yo laptop, which perfomance is terrific. I was hoping, maybe you could try to help me out reviving it. This laptop is dating back to 2009, with following specs: Studio 1555 : Intel Core 2 Duo Processor P8600(2.40GHz,1066MHz,3MB) Wireless : Europe Dell Bluetooth 370 Card Display : 15.6in Widescreen High Definition (1366X768) WLED with TrueLife Camera : Integrated 2.0 Mega Pixel Camera Graphics : 512 MB ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 545v Memory : 4096MB (2x2048) 800MHz DDR2 Dual Channel Battery : Primary 9-cell 85W/HR LI-ION Hard Drive : 500GB Samsung Evo 840 Wireless : Intel WiFi Link 5300 (802.11 a/g/n) Half Mini Card European Originally, this laptop came with windows vista preinstalled. Vista experience was terrible, fortunatelly win 7 came out soon after purchase, so it was my os for whole time. This month, I realized, notebook is pretty slow to others, or to say better - based on workload I am putting onto it. There were days, in far past, when I was editing videos on Sony Vegas. It was handling multitasking, virtual machines pretty easily. Today, the notebook "barely moves", actually it almost doesn't work. No more vegas, premiere pro, multitasking, I can't even think of virtual machines. SSD is quite new, only 2TB of total writes, I did clean install last week, instaled drivers from manufacturer page, installed updates (ignored win10). The performance is terrible. I can't run Netbeans nor eclipse, to do just basic java development. Cpu & ram instantly 100% usage. I have even switched from Chrome to Firefox due to memory usage, seemed to help for a bit, but now firefox almost kills my pc. There are no background services running (except skype) + win defender. Installed programs: Firefox, Office07, Vlc. Yesterday, ntb was heavy breathing, starting to levitate due to cooling fan running at full speed. Is there any way to help him, or tossing it is only solution ? I have to add, that this is not my primary machine. For that purposes, I have desktop for gaming, editing, programming. Purchasing new laptop would be easiest option, for sure, but for reason stated above, that is not an option. I'm using this laptop only occascionaly. However, it would be nice from laptop to run office, netbeans, adobe reader smoothly -> programs which used to work flawlessly couple years ago. Updating to w81 / 10 seems to not be an option due to missing driver for my gpu. On the other hand, I have to say, that I tried installing ubuntu 14.04lts3. After opening sys monitor, firefox, settings and couple other programs, ram usage was only 1GB/4 - 25%, cpu at about 10-20%. Unfortunatelly, this was just a test. I think there are no proper drivers for my machine, mainly gpu (I do not want to play games), but gpu fan was running constantly, what doesn't happen on windows. Also web page scrolling was tearing in ubuntu. I am windows guy, thus staying on windows would be option #1 for me. If there are any ways what to check / do to stay on windows, that would be great. I really don't feel like switching to linux.
  8. Windows 8.1 serial key I have feeling, that after win10 upgrade, your original key gets invalidated. But I hope, I'm wrong.
  9. I have no problem reinstalling from scratch. Actually, I always do clean install, I don't trust upgrade / downgrade process. Question is, whether my w81 key will still work.
  10. Sumitmak, this is the exact problem, I have. Now I double check after "turning off" my pc. But once, I turned off pc, left for a weekend trip, and when I got back, it was still running in this weird state Aren't you using Norton antivirus as well ? I have feeling, that these problems escalated since I installed norton. 3 days after clean install, no problems. Norton installed, freezing. Unfortunatelly, I cannot find anything helpful on the internet. Exactly, what I did. Prior to clean installation, which I did last Sunday, I flashed latest bios, cleared cmos via clear button on my mobo and set up everything from scratch. I'm starting to think about going back to windows8.1. Unfortunatelly, 30 days already passed. Is it possible ?
  11. Helo guys, I have recently moved from w8.1x64 to win10. Although I upgraded first, but afterwards, i installed it clean. I am experiencing some problems however, which I am hoping, you could help me to solve. Problem is, that sometimes i cannot shutdown or reboot my computer. I normally hit start -> shut down / restart. Restarting message is shown up for a couple of seconds, then the screen goes blank, however fans, mobo, cpu continue to run - I can still read the cpu temperature from motherboards lcd. This indicates to me, that system is actually not shut down. This occurs only sometimes unfortunatelly, thus i am not able to track down the reason causing it. Do you have any ideas, what to check / how to monitor (maybe check) some windows logs to track this down ? Some background, desription of my system: MSI Z97-G7 Mobo, i7 4790K, Corsair Vengeance DDR3 2x8GB 2133mhz memory(running on xmp), Samsung 240pro 256GB, Asus PCE-ac68 wifi card From software, i am using: Windows 10x64, Office 2013, Symantec Cloud anti-virus, Firefox, GTA V Nothing else is currently running on my pc. Thanks for help & tips in advance.
  12. Hello, thanks for all the answers. @R2D2_WD - I will check it. I have feeling, that the drive cage itself is a problem. It come a little bit pre-bent, right out of the box (brand new pc case). Hdd seems seated in caddy firmly. Problem is, that the caddy itself isn't 100% snug in the cage. So when i try to move / press on the caddy, it moves inside the cage. My question is therefore mainly concentrating on how to fix CAGE -> TRAY. Anyway, i will run it through Data Lifeguard Diagnostics to see in what state the harddrive is atm. @Jetster - i have not tried removing it, but it definitely is coming from that part of pc case. No any chance of coming from any of the coolers or so..
  13. Hello, I am researching if anyone have simmilar problems than me. I am almost happy user of Corsair Obsidian 450D case. My main concern is rattling noise coming from the hard drive cage. I have 2TB WD Black installed in centre position of 3 bay cage installed in bottom of the case. Most of time, my pc is quiet, as I use SSD primarly. But when i start game, BF4 for example i hear noise from hdd. That is quiet normal, I just get used to ssd dead silent performance. The problem occurs when i run antivirus, which means, whole hdd is being scanned. Rattling noise starts to occur. I am 99% sure, it's coming from hdd cage, not from the hdd itself. Hdd naturaly create vibrations, which this super fancy toolless mechanism isn't able absorb / compensate. I even attached the hdd with screws to the plastic tray. Have someone experienced, and hopefully solved something simmillar ? You can buy new computer, new case, but you can't buy your precious data once the hdd dies. Btw, i am planning to buy another 2tb and set the drives in RAID1, but before this I would like to resolve this problem, as I don't consider it normal.
  14. I just bought another 840 EVO 250 GB, as I have only good experience with it. I have been using 500gb version for about half year without any problems. Anyway, I am happy to see this, that this drive is not 'deprecated' and Samsung stil does care about it
  15. Maybe, I will try to, but anyway - no time for being without laptop, and according to forums, Lenovo support in general is poor in Slovakia. Then I really doubt, that they will accept hdd only, as I have to fix the laptop now, so I can't give it away for month or so.
  16. I think, that this is only for specific models of hard drives. Before, there was WD Scopio Black 500Gb, which is so damaged, that it started "scratching". It sounds like header is touching platters. Pretty weird for hdd 1/2 year old.
  17. Hey all, thanks for replies. I coudln't decide which one. But then I succeeded to agree with person for who this computer is, that ssd will be fine. I bought 250 GB Samsung Evo 840 as primary hard drive. Then I bought a 1 TB External Hdd from WD. It's bit over the budget, and summed cost equals to 500GB Samsung Evo, but I think, this way, we will get best of both worlds. Fast and snappy operating systems and loading of frequently used data, and high capacity, reliable storage for data not so frequently used + regular backups.
  18. Hello guys, I am looking for new drive my notebook. I have narrowed my alternatives to these two, please don't tell me "buy SSD instead". It's for notebook, the budget is already exceeded, so buying 500GB ssd is not possible. Notebook is Lenovo Thinkpad E530, running Win7. Most of time, this is used to access internet, office, and watch some youtube, family photos and videos.. My two proposed disk. Which one would you choose, and why ? 5400 RPM Toshiba SSHD (8GB sshd) http://www.alza.sk/toshiba-solid-state-hybrid-drive-500gb-d2143240.htm 7200 RPM Wd Black HDD http://www.alza.sk/western-digital-2-5-black-mobile-750gb-16mb-cache-d455008.htm Thanks
  19. Aah, sorry, I'm not native english speaker / writer. I meaned it this way: You should try to swap PSU for another one. But you probably don't have, because if you had spare psu to test with, there won't be this diagnostics and guessing whether it is psu failing or not. I hope, it's clear now
  20. You could try another power supply, which you probably don't have, because you won't be asking. Try removing graphics card, that will cut the load on psu a bit, and you will see if it still restarts. Btw, my personal tip is psu also. I got office computer like this once with note 'PSU failing'. At first, there were blown caps on mobo, which i fixed and computer was running fine. I could even put it under stress test for hour, system ran fine. But psu started failing after a while. Totaly random reboots. Sometimes during game, sometimes in ms office... No signs of problem, then click, computer reboot. It looked like I pulled it from wall and put it back, but faster.
  21. Don't worry. The PSU was completely out of the case, not connected to anything. It was pins PSU-ON and black wire... Anyway, my seasonic does exactly this same noise as your probably does. At first, when i start computer definitely can hear it. Then after a while, it disappers in my ears, when i concetrate on game, work or whatever, but then I realize "what the f...", it's grinding my ears.
  22. Hello, are there anyone who could contribute to this thread ? Is it worth to RMA the PSU ? It's making constant high pitch noise.. It doesn't change with load, only when i fully load my PC, stop hear it, what could be caused by fans going harder. I am asking, because i don't want to be 30 days without PSU completely, and then get it back with words "this noise isn't reason to RMA"... I have read somewhere, that high efficiency PSU's with F2C, what this seasonic should have, tend do make some kind of noise due to very fast switching and adapting psu to current load. Btw, it whines without any load too. It's not mobo-psu combination. I removed psu, started it by shorting pins PSU-ON... It whines also
  23. From the album: Gaming-rig 2014

    My custom made trolley. I have to do this because of three reasons: 1) On early stages photos, it's not shown, but on the right side, there is fish tank. I was affraid of sucking wet air into the system and corrosion. Also I din't want ro risk leakage of fishtank and destroying pc. 2) The PSU whines a bit. I am over-sensitive on high frequencies. It's still hearable, but while on table, it was right at "ear-level" which was driving me crazy. 3) I could place computer on floor, but I wanted to be able to move it when vacuming and it also raises computer, so it doesn't suck dust from the bottom.
  24. peterpepo

    Gaming-rig 2014

    My first "real" gaming machine.
  25. From the album: Gaming-rig 2014

    Photo from early stage of my gaming rig.
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