Pool Float

Since laptops are pre-built by the OEM, Asus in this case, it should have shipped from them with Windows 10 installed. I can't imagine they would sell a laptop to a reseller without an OS installed. If I remember correctly, Microsoft charges less than $15 for OEM Windows 10, since they don't have to support it. I checked the nVidia site, and there are no drivers available for 3000M series, so you may need to use it with a generic driver until they are released. For the CPU/chipset, you can try this one: AMD Ryzen™ and Athlon™ Mobile (Chipset) Drivers & Support | AMD

If a brand new laptop arrived without an OS installed, you've got a bigger issue than missing drivers. I'd be on the phone/chatting with Asus right now.

Are you sure it's not the ROG Strix G17 G713? ROG Strix | Gaming Laptops｜ROG - Republic of Gamers｜ROG Global (asus.com) ROG Strix G17 G713 | ROG Strix | Gaming Laptops｜ROG - Republic of Gamers｜ROG Global (asus.com) That's the closest model number I could find online with a 3070 and 5900HX.

Yes, if you don't want to go through a complete reinstall, then at the very least the old chipset drivers need to be removed. I personally always reinstall Windows for a clean start with new hardware. I took a chance on not doing it with the 3700X to 5800X, and it went bad.

OK, since you're on newer hardware, and never touched SATA config, then you should be fine to just move all the drives over. Just make sure that the one with Windows is higher up on the SATA ports, so the BIOS will see it first. Assuming Windows boots, it will first run a detection of new hardware/devices, and then boot to your login screen. Once logged in, you will want to install the AMD chipset drivers that match your current board.

Technically only a BIOS update was needed. But it wasn't that simple for me, and I'm still dealing with gremlins. What are the specs of your current computer? You can move the non-OS drives over without issue, but the SATA configuration for your current system will determine if you can attempt to boot Windows without reinstalling it clean. Depending on the age of your current system, SATA can be in 1 of 3 modes: Legacy (also known as Compatible), AHCI, or RAID Each of these modes changes how drives are seen by the BIOS/UEFI and Windows. And the setting needs to match in order to have the best chance at booting.

To add some more information: After the first reinstall, I downloaded the latest Realtek audio drivers, Nvidia drivers (RTX 2080 Ti), X570 Chipset, and X570 RAID drivers. In subsequent reinstalls, I skipped the Realtek drivers, since I've read they can be problematic. The only settings I change from defaults in the BIOS are: XMP (Enabled) Infinity Fabric (1600MHz) - for some reason AUTO runs as 1500MHz according to HWiNFO SATA Mode (RAID) - not NVMe RAID CSM (Disabled) Secure Boot (Enabled) - but I've tried leaving this alone as well

Hi there! I ordered the 5800X on launch day, and promptly upgraded from the 3700X as a drop-in replacement (Mrs. Float was building a new PC, and wanted my 3700X). My motherboard (ASRock X570 Taichi) was upgraded to BIOS 3.60 while still running the 3700X in order to be compatible with Ryzen 5000. Everything worked fine before and after the BIOS update, while still running the 3700X. After the CPU upgrade, Windows (2020 H2) ran fine, but some apps and games were acting weird. Specifically, Time Spy would crash, WoW would crash when enabling ray-tracing, and some other random wonky behavior. However, my monitors going to sleep after the specified idle time was not an issue. After a couple days of troubleshooting everything else, I opted to just reinstall Windows. The reinstall went fine, and everything worked fine immediately after. Installed the X570 chipset and RAID drivers, still fine. Monitor would shut off, PC would sleep. I then went through reinstalling almost all of my usual apps and games. At some point, Windows decided that it will no longer sleep according to the timer, and the monitor never turns off, either. Locked or unlocked. I've reset the power scheme (Balanced) to default several times. According to AMD, Balanced is the preferred scheme for Ryzen 5000. I used to use Ryzen High Performance, which no longer gets installed with the chipset drivers. Searching around online, I've seen suggestions to run "powercfg -requests" since there was likely a driver keeping my PC awake. I found a lock related to my Realtek audio driver, audio-technica microphone, and NVIDIA Broadcast. I updated the drivers for my sound card and reinstalled NVIDIA Broadcast. No change. Exited NVIDIA Broadcast, and most locks disappeared. Still no sleep. Disabled it from starting on boot, restarted, no locks to be seen anywhere. PC and monitor still won't sleep. I've manually rebooted a few times, checked for driver locks, and then manually locked my computer while sitting there for up to 20 minutes. Monitor never goes black (lockscreen on the whole time), and computer never sleeps. Looking around on r/Windows, I saw some similar posts about sleep, and they were advised to check for a problematic app/driver in Event Viewer. I know the times that I manually rebooted for testing, but I don't see anything out of the ordinary in there. Can anyone suggest what to check next? Are there any apps out there than can crawl through the very busy Event Viewer to possibly make it easier to narrow down? At the time I posted something very similar on r/Windows, I was running 3.60 BIOS version. I have since tried 3.61, 3.62 (beta), and now 3.67 (beta), in addition to 2 more Windows 10 reinstalls (2020 H1 and H2) in order to try and narrow the cause down. I've had no luck as all, and am beyond frustrated with this.

A fresh Windows install is always best, although you can carry an existing one forward if your new hardware supports it. Depending on the current SATA config in your BIOS (AHCI, RAID), and other things like CSM or SecureBoot, you may not be able to get Windows to boot on the new board. I just did a drop-in upgrade from Ryzen 3000 to 5000, and it was a mess (separate post coming on that), so I personally would always recommend an OS reinstall when changing motherboard/CPU.

Thank you. I guess the main concern was a man-in-the-middle attack, but as I think about it with a refreshed mind, it does in fact make sense that you'd need to provide the key in order to access data they cannot otherwise decrypt. Researching while tired is not recommended. I first heard of Backblaze a few months ago on an LTT video, and the price was definitely attractive. And not having to manually locate all >4GB files and system files that I want to backup will be a huge time savings as well.

I've been using Carbonite for 2 years, and am mostly happy with it, but I think it's time to look for something else. I have the Personal Plus plan, since I have a lot of video files and didn't want to manually select them all like the cheapest plan requires. I also have quite a few files that exceed the 4GB cutoff for auto backup, which is not a huge deal, but I'd prefer to not have to do that anymore. The above being said, my biggest annoyances by far are: System files (.dll, .inf, etc) are not backed up automatically - I'm not trying to backup my OS, but I do like to keep other folders backed up where these exist Confusing backup indicators - the backup indicators that tell me a file/folder is or is not backed up frequently don't make sense. It will be orange (pending backup), yet when I check the cloud, it's safely there already I've been reading up on other options for the past few weeks, and will be looking to make a move at the end of August, when my Carbonite subscription runs out. My backup set will hover around 7-9TB, so high/unlimited storage is preferred I'd prefer to not pay over $10-15/mo Mobile app is nice, but not required I have gigabit internet up/down, so I'd prefer one with decent upload speeds From the reading I've done so far, I am trying to find the best option between these: Backblaze CrashPlan iDrive Anyone have recent experience with these? Most comparisons and feedback online are 2-3 years old. I've seen mentions of encryption being riskier on Backblaze, since you need to upload your private key each time you want to download files, which technically means they're not zero-knowledge since the key allows them access to everything.

Yeah, it's a weird site for sure.

https://www.cnet.com/news/walmart-will-discontinue-jet-com-nearly-four-years-after-3b-purchase/ Looks like Linus and the team will soon have one less place to real cheap video cards with faked specs. At least there's still Aliexpress and others to fill the gap. For me, I'm just heartbroken over all the overpriced games and not-at-all knockoff video game consoles I'll have to go elsewhere to not buy. Driving past the soon to be shuttered warehouse visible from the NJ Turnpike should be interesting. I wonder how long until Amazon leases the space.

Just wanted to update everyone real quick. I installed the new PSU last night, and although the coil whine did not go away completely, it's at least 70-80% quieter now. As soon as the fans kick up a bit, you can't even hear it anymore.

Best Buy only carries the 850W, and I can get it for $110 with my accrued rewards. I've also been striking out on most others on your list, either in inflated prices or stock issues. As long as the 850W isn't a step down in reliability, I'll go with that one. Thanks again for your help.