lafrente

Bad ram might have damaged your OS or drivers, and you would never know how many or which files got corrupted. The easiest solution is to run the system on a new disk with fresh OS. If there are no problems, move your stuff to the new OS. If there are, then it is a hardware issue.

Those are some CRAZY prices for an nvme ssd. Unless you're 4k video editing all the time, it's just waste of money. I looked it up and you probably have an extra zero on those prices lol

To be safe and not burn your components yes. It has to be in the box. It may have "VGA" mark on it and one end is daisy chain. Otherwise contact the seller.

Radeon software will default the settings after a power outage, crash etc, supposedly to "save you" from a bad overclock on GPU which it presumes is causing the crash. The problem is bad GPU OC unless extremely bad, won't cause a crash until you stress it a bit, so it's completely useless in most cases. The issue is everytime there is a force reset, force shutdown, power outage, crash etc, and you forget to reload your profile, the card just burns up to 100 degrees with bad factory fan curves and voltages. Is there a way to prevent this profile resetting? Is afterburner the only way?

Yes and you just install them. It's not like the PC won't work at all without them. Most drivers will be installed by W10 automatically anyway.

You didn't post the part which is most likely to be the culprit. What's your PSU

Remove the old SSD, install W10 on new SSD. You can still use the files on the old one whenever.

The theory is that it may have just lasted that long until the damage on the pins caused a malfunction that started burning the GPU.

Since the last day or two I find myself misclicking subtitles settings when I mean to click playback speed. Did youtube for some weird reason change the order of the settings? This is what it looks like now. Was there no change? Would be really weird if there wasn't.

Sometimes having to press multiple times just.. happens. Don't need to bother unless it refuses to boot. It has nothing to do with total power of your PSU. I had 750w on 300w system and same thing occured.

Well you have to because that is a clear cut PSU issue. Unless you are OK with underclocking and undervolting the card.

No.

It spins the other way because the blades are oriented that way. If it would spin in the same direction as the case fan (anti-clockwise) it would push air back towards the front of the case in an inefficient way.

You don't know what exactly is damaged in your phone, you don't know what may be damaged in the phone you'll get, you don't know what parts you may damage when you are trying to swap parts. For a 4 years old phone which claims to be waterproof but apparently isn't. Not worth the risk. Put aside and get new. Maybe it dries up completely in the meanwhile and boots again.

You can adjust CPU fan speed. And if your mobo supports it, you can also adjust case fan speeds as well, even if they are 3 pin. You need to plug them into motherboard's fan headers though and not directly into the PSU via molex. Mobo can change fan voltages based on CPU temp.

Using 1st and 4th slots with just 2 ram sticks is bad indeed. Do you mean you still lose performance when using 1st and 3rd slots compared to 2nd and 4th?

You can also control fan speed even if its molex and doesn't have any software through BIOS if your mobo supports it.

Don't think the difference between using A1 and B1 and A2 and B2 is enough (If there's even a difference) to justify getting a new mobo.

My bet is still on the CPU. And about that quote which says "Bad CPU wouldn't boot" that couldn't be far from the truth. Bad CPU can boot perfectly, run perfectly until it doesn't and either cause shutdowns or random restarts. Did you actually try static OC?

That's a terrible idea and total waste of money unless all you want to do is office work and can find reliable 2nd hand parts. I'd save more or work for a month or something and then build a PC that will have warranty and possibly last years, perform well, and look nice.

My first laptop that I bought in 2010 is still working & still used daily with total usage hours of over 60.000 so far. It hasn't gone to any kind of shop for repair for once. Zero issues in the hinges despite me holding it from the top of the screen, the fan is still original without temp issues. To clean it, I don't need to take the whole thing apart. I just unscrew 3 screws in the back and can then remove the small panel and have access to the cooling assembly. Overall I am extremely happy with how reliable it has been, and since it has a first gen i5, it still does the job. But I'd like to "retire" it before it actually dies on me. It got me through college and work and flown overseas and back and it has come to have a bit more meaning than just a laptop. So in summary I am looking for a modern laptop, low or mid tier (assuming today's low tier is better performing than the i5-430m) and something that's durable & easy to get inside and clean. Are there any modern laptops built with this approach or brands that take this approach? Or do all of them have just a thin panel in the back, dies in 3 years, heats up like crazy, and have to taken apart completely to be cleaned?

Does it come with that crappy radeon software? Is it a standalone thing? Do you enable it in settings of the game or the software? This is just a long boring marketing page and zero info on how to use and not even any download links to anywhere. https://community.amd.com/t5/gaming/amd-fsr-3-now-available/ba-p/634265

Since the new GPU has 2x the memory, and from what you said about closing Chrome fixing it, looks like there could be some "confusion" in shared memory. Try finding in BIOS settings something like VGA memory size and adjust it accordingly.

What was the old GPU?

It's difficult to imagine small amount of liquid leaking downward (opposite of mobo) damaging the motherboard though it is possible. Is that the hole just above the fan a bit to the right?