jafanello

you can flip the psu

Hi, 
I was trying to avoid build up of excessive dust, that is why i was trying to get neutral pressure, or at least a bit of positive pressure.

So top mounted 240 rad and you are wanting to put one as intake and one as exhaust?  
 
Does it matter....negligible.  Would I?  Are you looking to create neutral pressure?  While neutral pressure keeps cases cleaner longer, it also creates hot spots in PC cases.  I prefer positive or negative.  Just curious why you want this balance.
 
EDIT - I currently have a top mount intake in trial (to see how I like it myself) and I don't.  It doesn't help thermals in my situation, and only adds more dust on the top of the case.

No you can just install the power supply upside down, it will just get air from outside the case if there are ventilation holes on the bottom of the case

are you saying you have 2 radiators or and just flipping one of the fans?
im going to assume that you're flipping the fans, which is a bad idea because the most accessible air the fan will get is the hot air the other fan just spit out
just go with some extra pressure on one side, not the end of the world with some lost efficiency, just add a fan in the future if it bothers you that much

I see.. If you only have one intake fan, just add another one as @Jumballi says. Another draw back from one intake fans vs. 2x out is more dust, because of negative pressure. To combat that you could move your radiator to the front of the case. If you do that mount as shown below:

2 fans together.  Having 1 fan on the other side also causes stress on the mounting on your casing as only 1 fan set of screws is holding it up.  The 2nd fan is also blowing hot air from the GPU through the radiator so that's also a no go.

But its a h100i (240mm) with 2x fans. So push-pull is not an option.

I edited the entire post when I figured out it was a 240mm rad   The title confused me, I only saw 2x120 so assumed it was a single fan rad.

the negative/positive thing has shown to make no difference until you're at like 3 fans more than the other, and dust will always find as way.
best solution is airflow from from of case towards the exhaust.

That depends on 1. the case. 2. fans used.

It should not.

Some hardware monitoring programs only report last reported (boost) frequency before going to "sleep". Use HwInfo64 or Ryzen Master to see true clocks.

It's a known,  typical Ryzen 3000 issue. 
 
Update your BIOS or make at least sure it's at default settings except XMP when applicable,  update your chipset, update windows. 
 
Then set windows power plan to "windows balanced".
 
Check idle voltage again. 
It should be fixed.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Is this related to your OP?  If so that would be normal Ryzen 3000 behavior from my experience, even when manually OC'd with fixed voltage in all-core workloads it likes occasionally shuffling which cores are focused on a workload the hardest.  Thats atleast been my experience with it. 

Check if Cool 'n Quiet is enabled or not. I noticed the last time I mucked around in my UEFI, it was disabled by default after I cleared the settings.
 
However, I don't think checking the CPU frequency or the voltage is really a thing for idling in Ryzen. I've had my CPU locked to 1.25V and 4.0GHz and it does actually drop in power consumption if the CPU is idling. And even messing around with the frequency didn't seem to change how much power it was consuming.

That's a speed you could only get when doing something on 1 singular core:
If you are using 2 cores or more (which you likely are, considering you get a 12-core CPU ), you won't get that max turbo. Through overclocking you could up the speed, not a guarantee you'll get that speed.
Although people reporting they didn't even get that speed when doing a single-core task. der8auer (well-known overclocker) did a survey on this and saw many people did not reach that max boost.
 
I am not on the other part though, the part about the CPU's not idling.

Was this a brand new machine? or a second hand one? If brand new I would return it. If you have dual channel ram I'd try removing 1 stick and boot. if the result is the same, swap the sticks and try booting with the other. Let us know how you make out.

I suggest doing a clean install and see if it works if that's the state you bought it in, I think it's likely Windows is just broken

I have the same CPU and cooler as you.
 
- "True" idle (i.e. doing nothing for an extended period of time) is anywhere between 41-45 C.
- Under heaviest load, i.e. a cinebench run or running seti@home all night long, has 85 degrees spikes, with the average at 79 degrees.
- The cracking noise is normal during initial operation, it'll disappear almost entirely.
- My fans are set to quiet operation within iCue, and pump on balanced.
 
First check this:
 
- Replace the stock cooling paste that's on the h100i. I replaced it with Arctic Silver 5, which did affect temperatures by a few degrees (don't expect miracles though)
- You say your ram is running at 2100mhz instead of 3200. Go into your bios, and apply the D.O.C.P (AMD term for XMP) memory profile. If you have an ASUS board, it's under AI tweaker > AI Overclock Tuner > D.O.C.P.
- Apply the 1usmus power plan. (https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/1usmus-custom-power-plan-for-ryzen-3000-download.html), it performs better, and it has better idling (i.e. it shuts off entire cores if unused)
- How is your case cooling?
 

Yes, SavageNeo is right, but that is also part of enabling the 1usmus power plan.
 
Possible you'll not be able to find all options.

Disable PBO and CPB. Precion boost overdrive and core performance boost. And put xmp/D.O.C.P mode on, in ai tuner tab on bios

That's air, it'll migrate to the radiator eventually, it's normal.