Quivz

Ah... Yup that appears to have done the trick. Weird that minitool couldn't get it done though... Cheers!

I had 2 4tb seagate barracudas in a dock and one day they stopped working properly. I lost all the data on both of them. There was nothing on there i majorly lament losing. I've scanned one of the drives and found no errors. For some reason the drive has initialised as MBR and i cant get it to switch to GPT. Windows disk management cant do it, and Minitool partition wizard (free version) tells me its completed the conversion successfully, but as soon as i close the confirmation dialogue its shows MBR again. Obviously i want to get it to GPT because its a 4tb drive. Any advice?

So I saw Secretlabs sponsored WAN Show. I have one of their chairs and I'm pretty happy with it. But they recently launched a gamer desk. Any chance of a review even if its sponsored? It's pricey and i could probably do everything they claim it can do myself for waaaay cheaper, but what if i'm too lazy? Will it give me a sweet setup with less hassle?

Did a bit more experimenting and the video is actually streaming fine for viewers, its just the preview panel i get to watch to make sure everything is working as intended that seems to be failing. I can live with that, but if anyone has any ideas why its suddenly working wrong please let me know. Its difficult to stream like this. I can't be sure what the audience is seeing.

I'm trying to stream using OBS and youtube is only getting the top left 1/4 of my stream. I haven't changed any settings and it was working fine 12 hours ago... I'm outputting at 1920x1080 60fps using nvenc. Recording is working fine.

I will have to try to find another cable where that pin20 isn't connected. Pulling the cable isn't too bad a solution as i pretty much only turn my computer off or restart when i'm updating certain drivers or windows updates. But a more permanent solution would be better. I've been running completely stable since my last post and i've been playing games that can push things like WDLegion and Monster Hunter World. I just hope that was the problem because I'll be playing Cyberpunk in a few days and i don't want a borked system. In game bugs i can deal with, but if thats compounded with an unstable system too its gonna suck.

So a little more information. I can get the system to post if i unplug the display port cable from my monitor. This is a weird one, but that cable does provide enough power to keep the RGB on the AIO block lit even when the PSU is off. And i noticed that the new ram modules, which i hadn't given a hardware RGB profile in iCUE, were also lighting up with the PSU off and even unplugged. So the display port connection is passing power from the monitor through the graphics card to the mobo. Perhaps there's enough coming through to stop the ram from shutting down or clearing properly on a reboot and its causing issues. I don't know if thats a thing, but i had got to a point where i couldn't get it to post at all and eventually i tried pulling that display port on a hunch, and lo and behold i immediately got a post. I also have an external drive plugged in. One of the ones with a seperate power supply and when i pulled the display port cable i heard it spool down and then up again. I ended up putting the extra 2 sticks of ram i now own in as well as the old ones (since they're exactly the same kit, same latency, speed etc.). So now i have 4 8gb sticks instead of 2. Did a run of memtest while i was putting together my new chair which just turned up and after 2 passes with no errors at 3200mhz i'm baffled again. Can RAM not powering down properly cause a system to be unable to post? Can the power being supplied to the mobo through the display port from the monitor be doing it?

Brand new RAM, system still wont post 90% of the time. Tried all slots with a single stick with xmp turned off and bios at defaults.. I can still get into the system occasionally, but the cmos is cleared when i do. Last night i could get it to boot with any settings, but as i said when i ran memtest86 with xmp on i got tons of ram errors. So i thought it was a ram problem and went out and bought new ram. But when i put the new ram in my system wouldn't post again. So after turningthe computer on and off again several times i got into bios and got the message that tells me the cmos had been cleared. Exit without saving and it wouldn't post. So i turned it off and on again several times and eventually it posted and i got into windows. And now i am here hoping someone can help me further, because its not the battery or the RAM.

Well I got a BSOD today "System Service Exception". But i couldn't find any driver issues, but on a hunch i tried restarting my computer. It restarted fine and my XMP Profile did not reset... So i was wondering what it was, but then while streaming to YT the game crashed twice and the second time it somehow messed up steam so i couldn't start the game up again for a third time. I tried restarting again and i got a BSOD as it shut down. Don't know what the error was this time. So i booted into memtest86 again and about 80% through the first pass of tests started getting error after error. So i turned off the XMP profile and tried memtest86 again and got nothing after nearly a whole pass. Turned XMP back on and tested one more time as a sanity check and got tons of errors. So maybe it was my RAM after all and the one time it passed all 4 passes of memtest was a fluke, or it was already on 2666mhz and i hadn't noticed. So now i have to start the returns process from the store i bought it from who is in the next state over. I could go straight to corsair, but from what i've heard i'll have to post my ram all the ay to china from here, whereas if i go through the retailer i'll only have to mail it to them and they'll mail it to corsair. But that will leave me without a working PC so i'll have to go and buy some RAM and then sell the warranty stuff when it comes back or something... Pain in the icehole i can tell you that.

Seems to have been the battery... Which is weird considering how old the system is. I had thought of the battery but dismissed it because why would the battery already be dead. But i was out grabbing a wifi extender since i moved my shield to a different part of the house and the signal back there sucks, and i figured changing the battery couldn't hurt, so i picked one up. I say one, but its a 2 pack. Anyway. It seems to have resolved the problem. Thanks for sticking with me. Hopefully i wont be back.

When i'm in windows i never use the case switch. The times i've used the case switch is something i tried when the system was on, but wouldn't post. What i meant by the section you quoted is that: when the system is off, turning it on at the case switch lights the RGB on the fans and the fans ramp up to full speed, but other than that does nothing. Pressing the case switch while in this non-post state will turn the system back off again. Once it has turned off again, further presses of the case switch does not power up the system. The RGB flashes for a second, but the system does not power up at all.

I've been running it at 2666 because whenever i restart no matter what its set to (2666 or 3200) the bios resets and my xmp profile turns off resetting the ram to 2666. I actually cant work out how to change the ram speed except to enable the xmp profile which is 3200. I was going to try 3000, but i couldn't find a way to change the multiplier. There's an option that's set to auto and has the multiplier (or whatever its called, i may be getting the wrong terminology here) next to it and its set to 26.6 with xmp disabled, and 32 with xmp enabled, but i cant change it from auto despite the option not being greyed out. with xmp enabled i cant change it either. The BSOD said PFN list corrupt which is why i did the memory test and got 0 errors on memtest86 after 4 passes of all tests. I don't know if the BSODs i got from Watch Dogs was the same. I only remember being pissed at Watch Dogs as it was clearly the problem. I haven't had a BSOD since that one nearly 2 weeks ago and my system runs fine except it wont start again after shutting down.

So it's been days since i last restarted my computer for anything, but this problem persists. I still don't know why it would be happening. I haven't had any crashes or BSODs (Watch Dogs: Legion got patched and works fine now thankfully), and no other indications that there's anything wrong with my system except that it wont start properly 9 out of 10 and when it does start the CMOS has apparently been cleared which removes my XMP profile which is the only thing that isn't default in the BIOS anyway. Still looking for any assistance i can get on this one because its a real annoyance.

Are your games running on that C drive? Very full drives can sometimes cause problems. I would recommend freeing up some space on that drive regardless. Especially if its your windows drive.

Oh and i did a complete scan including for rootkits, with malwarebytes premium trial on all drives. Nada detected.

And Signature's not there... so... Ryzen 7 3700x Gigabyte X570UD Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL16 DDR4 Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB SSD WD Green 240GB SSD WD Black 1TB Corsair Force Series MP600 PCIe Gen4 M.2 NVME SSD 500GB Galax RTX2080 Super Corsair H100i Platinum RGB AIO Corsair RM650 PSU (carried over from previous build and maybe the one before that too. Cant remember how old it is, but its not young) Corsair iCUE 465x case Windows 10 Home 64bit (like i said, bought retail not OEM) Did i miss anything?

I can shut down fine. The shut down half of a restart also works fine. But powering the system back on or the restart half of the restart (if you get what i mean) fails. This next bit is going to be long, but its every bit of information i can think of related to my issue. Normally the RGB lights up the fans spin at max for a second, then calm down. Then i get a post screen from the graphics card. Then a bios splash. Then windows loads. Now RGB lights up fans spin up to max. And thats it. I can turn the system off at the case power switch. Pressing it again has the RGB light for a split second but nothing else happens. The only way i can get the system to boot again is to turn it off at the PSU wait 10 seconds and then turn it back on again. And even then it doesn't always work. I've had a few BSODs recently, but they were always while trying to play Watch Dogs Legion (WDL), which is a crash fest for lots of people. I don't always get a BSOD when it crashes out, but it does crash every 20ish minutes on the regular. Having googled this i saw that WDL was crashing like this and even giving BSODs to lots of people so i thought nothing of it. However this was the first time I've seen the problem restarting. I thought it was probably a setting somewhere and figured I'd get to it when it became critical as my computer only ever restarts for Windows updates etc. Otherwise it runs 24/7. Yesterday i did get one weird BSOD while just opening a 3rd Chrome tab. So I looked at some stuff in event viewer and realised that while i know how to find event viewer i don't know what any of it means anyway . But for the record i think it was Bug Check 1001... So I did my basics, checked drivers were up to date and checked windows was up to date. Then i wanted to do a memory test, but i got sick of waiting for Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool (WMDT) to get past 21%. I know it can sit there for ages and then progress again, but i honestly just got tired of it. So i rebooted (having to go through all the rigmarole detailed above) and got Memtest86 from PassMark. Made a bootable image using a brand new USB, just out of the packaging. I stopped to play some games first because I'd been staring at WMDT for hours and needed some entertainment before i tied my computer up with another diagnostic. So i played Elite: Dangerous in VR (Oculus Quest 1 via link cable) for about an hour or so. I want to stress that other than the chrome tab that one time which began my hunt for the cause of the BSODs, Nothing else except WDL has caused any crashes. And even WDL probably only gave me 2 BSODs out of 30ish crashes. Yes it crashes that frequently. I've done all the troubleshooting i can find online (manually adding firewall rules for every part of Ubisoft connect and every part of WDL, running all the bits as admin, removing hd texture pack, running in dx11 mode, running in offline, etc. etc.) and it crashes after 20ish minutes every time no matter what. Anyway, i've been watching Youtube on Chrome, watching videos with VLC, playing games (ARK, Necromunda, Elite: Dangerous in and out of VR and Star Wars Squadrons in VR) with no problems, except that one time. So after my gaming session during which nothing happened, i went through the steps i had to to get into BIOS and changed the 1st boot device to uefi usb. Saved and restarted and ran Memtest86 at defaults overnight. 4 passes 0 errors. So this morning, like an hour ago, i restarted went through the steps i needed to get it to post and get back into the BIOS to change the boot device back and the BIOS told me that the CMOS was cleared. Now other than setting XMP for my RAM i've done nothing else change the boot device in the BIOS ever. So i reset the XMP profile, changed the boot device back to my windows drive and went through the steps i have to to get the thing to start. And once i did get it to start, it booted into windows fine and i've had HWMonitor open since I logged in and haven't seen anything weird there. But i had my suspicions and checked my RAM speed in task managers performance tab and its running at 2666 instead of 3200 again... System was built in March of this year. I think I've got a signature with all my specs in it, but if its not there I'll edit this post and put everything in soon. I will point out i bought a retail copy of windows 10 home, not OEM. Windows is on the Neutron SSD, the NVME is used exclusively for games. The Green ssd is where i edit video for my Youtube channel, and the mechanical is temporary storage for (totally legal) torrent downloads before stuff gets shuffled into its permanent place off this computer. So... What do you reckon? Why wont it restart or power on properly and why is the CMOS suddenly clearing when i can get it to start?

Either this or he couldn't be bothered trying to explain to the IT teachers what was actually happening and just smiled and nodded. He seemed pretty competent to me. But a few of those who taught IT didn't. It took another semester, but they changed to a client image or virtual machine or something. Not sure what terminology i'm looking for here, because its something I've never done, but the computers took several extra minutes to boot and you couldn't do any permanent damage anymore. If you logged off and back on again you had a brand new clean desktop with all your applications and any changes you'd made in your previous session were gone. And if you were in year 12 (Australian school system, year 12 is your final year), you got an extra application... GTA, playable across the network. We were allowed to play it in our free periods.

Actually there was also a time back in 99 when i was alone in a school computer lab at lunch. I had just needed to print something and the IT teacher had been cool with it and left me to it. After printing i had the humorous idea to make a quick powerpoint slide that simply said "Virus" in big letters and then changed the font to one that flashed different colours. I started the slideshow and left the lab. The next day, that lab was closed and the IT guy was formatting all the computers in that room.

What i was referring to was that there were AMD chips in this era that could be overclocked by drawing on it with a pencil in the right spot. I think this is one of them, but i'm not sure and there's no marks on it so no one has tried before.

My mother keeps everything on the desktop. When i upgraded her machine yonks ago, i moved her from Windows ME to 7 with a new build. She made me put everything from the old desktop on the new desktop in a folder called "old desktop". Not long ago i upgraded her machine again. There is now a folder on the desktop called "old desktop" that contains a folder called "old desktop". I got curious recently. The highest tier had a last modified that matched the day i did the upgrade. The lower tier was around the time she moved to windows 7. She's never opened either folder again. I've nearly convinced her that she should move to windows 10 and expect to be making a new "old desktop" folder soon. EDIT: I almost forgot that on the initial computer when she finally ran out of space for new icons she bought an external hard drive because she thought that meant the hard drive was full. There was a time she thought the sound was broken and when i came round it was a driver issue. I dont remember the exact conversation but i do remember only realising days later that must have been why she left the room, came back and put her drivers license on the desk next to me. At the time i thought she must have been prepping to do something that required id when i had finished. I imagine she still thinks her drivers license fixed the sound issue. She constantly complains about voices on the tv being too soft, but wont raise the volume because "no, its loud enough". She's convinced her 2008 bravia had hdr and i must have broke it when i connected the wii for the first time. She's also convinced her 2016 LG had hdr (her model doesn't have hdr) until i plugged in the PS4. My dad thought the whole internet was owned by bill gates and was stored in a big industrial structure called "Silicon Valley". And the one that really gets me down, people who think they're tech savvy because they can (barely) use an iPad, but still think Wi-Fi and internet are the same thing...

Just found this: No pencil marks... Is this one of those chips?

Sort of... Can we just assume that even if its not necessary, i want it and i'm not going to compromise. I've never really been in a position in my life where i can afford to get what i want and let what i actually need suck it, but i find myself in that position now. While this is a bit better sorting capability than the stores i normally use i dont see a hdmi2.1 here... But i seem to have found out why that is... There doesn't seem to be any out yet... So i'm an idiot for failing to do that bit of research first. I guess because i spent so long looking at big TVs before i decided a monitor would suit better, i didn't think to look to see if there was such a thing as hdmi2.1 monitors... So now i don't really know which way i'm going to go... Wait for monitors to come out with hdmi2.1 and play without vrr on the 4k tv i already have, go back to looking for tvs or delay my PS5 purchase...

xbox already has 4k games confirmed running at 120hz, it would be surprising if playstation didn't match this for at least some games. But i'm sticking to my guns on the 120hz minimum regardless.

So i was considering looking for a new TV to match the capabilities of the PS5, but after much consideration on how and where i spend my time, i've come to the conclusion that a monitor in the 27 -32 range would actually suit me better. So what i'm looking for is a 27-32inch 4k 120hz HDR HDMI2.1 monitor. But trying to find something with all that is really hard. If you CAN find out what kind of HDR is supported then you can't find what HDMI is supported. Or some other reason why i wont be able to work out if the monitor is going to meet all my needs. Now while freesync and g-sync would normally be desirable, i already have a freesync 240hz monitor for my pc gaming. But its only 1080p, because for my PC gaming i prefer my frames so i can compete. While for a console i will be almost certainly be only playing single player so i can easily accept lower frames for a higher resolution picture. So my current monitor isn't going to do it for the PS5. A new secondary pc monitor that can be my primary console monitor is where this will integrate into my setup. I've done some searching, but half the recommended monitors from like toms hardware and the like are 60hz, or doesn't have hdmi2.1, or is a 70inch television. So does anyone have any recommendations for a monitor that meets all my criteria? 1. 27-32 inch 2. 4k 3. 120hz at least 4. HDR, at least 500 nits or thereabouts is what i was hoping for, but higher is still better 5. HDMI 2.1, because variable refresh rate that works with the PS5 is going to matter