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Turns out non of us got it right. The primary suspect as of right now is the Lian-Li Strimer 24pin cable extension. The possible explanation is that the added electrical resistance makes the motherboard power delivery marginally insufficient to satisfy both graphics card and M.2 SSD running at their full capacities.

Tested on another 1050 and on noctua air cooler again, also tested on another water block. Same issue persists.

It says 99% health for both SSDs. Is there any information I should be looking for specifically?

Okay I tried disassmeblying everything, it would seem that if I put my motherboard into the case, the problem takes place, but if I take it out, things are normal again. Maybe something is shorting? But it was weird since the identical problem happens on both motherboards. Perhaps the M.2 SSD mounted at the back of the motherboard is making contact with something?

This is an issue that has plagued me for more than a year. I have tried numerous ways to troubleshoot my PC, but there just does not seem to be any reasonable explanation to why this kept happening. Syndrome: In short, when I put workload on my graphics card and m.2 SSD together, the SSD disconnects after usage spiking to 100% (happens on both), which means this happens whenever I try to play any game. Now this machine has been a high-end PC that I'm not able to play any game on for more than a year. To reproduce, launch Furmark and CrystalDiskMark together and there is a near 100% chance the issue could be recreated. Spec: CPU: Ryzen 9 3950x Motherboard: ASUS Strix X570-I / Gigabyte X570-I RAM: TridentZ RGB 2x16GB GPU: GTX 1080 ti Storage: 2x Sabrent Rocket 1TB M.2 SSD PSU: Thermaltake SFX 600W Case: Evolv Shift Additional info: I water cool my system, and apply liquid metal thermal interface. To prevent accidental spills and shorts, I applied MG Chemicals #422B silicone conformal coating around the CPU socket. The CPU is usually kept under 60C and rarely runs at around 80C under full load. The GPU temp is always kept under 60C. The issue takes place when the drive is under temperatures ranging from 40C to 80C. The issue surfaced after a few months of usage, and has become more and more frequent as the time passes. Whenever it happens, all directories in the drive are still accessible, but if I attempt to open any file, it would say it is corrupted. Writing and deleting files seem to work fine. I use a PCIE riser for the GPU so that it fits the case. The two SSDs are from different vendors, one from Amazon and the other from Newegg What I have tried: Blowing a giant fan into my case to eliminate the potential cause of motherboard / SSD overheat. Using a different PCIE riser Using a different GPU Using a different motherboard CSM support / Above 4G decoding / PCIE generation settings in UEFI does not affect the reproductivity of the issue Reinstalled Windows What seems to work but I dont know why: I have taken everything out, replaced the waterblock with a low-profile Noctua air cooler, and using a PCIE riser to connect an air cooled GTX 1070 on a new motherboard, and this seems to fix the problem somehow. However, if I reapply water cooling loop, switch back to 1080ti the problem comes back. After the problem is back, if I simply switch the GPU to 1070, and use the known good riser, the problem still persists. What could be the problem: Somehow the CPU is broken in a way that allowed this. I don't know how, since the first M.2 slot is supposed to connect to chipset PCIE lane I don't see how both could have the same problem. Somehow the conformal coating is reacting with both of the motherboards in the identical way that caused this Running a closed case causing metal to thermal expand, though I am not sure how it affects both SSDs identically, since the are at each side of the motherboard. Somehow both of my SSDs are defective, and they take place simultaneously. Please let me know if you have any insight into this issue. It would be greatly appreciated. Enclosed are screenshots taken moments after the disaster.

Okay so: I am trying to get Thermaltake pacific rgb fittings to work with Asus aura sync. The rgb on the fittings are simply 5V non-addressable rgb series. So now I have 3 options: 1. Adding resistor to the 12V header to split the voltage. The problem is that I would like to find a safe and reliable way to do so (e.g. no exposed wires or fragile connections). Also, a different resistor is needed for different number of fittings chained in parrellel. 2. Using the molex 5V connection The problem is like the above: I potentially need to damage the cabling to do so. 3. Using the 5V ADD pin to feed the 5V The problem of this is that I do not know if my motherboard will like it, because there will be a net current out at the 5V ADD headers and a net current in at the 12V RGB header. Thanks in advance!

Hey, I just made this account to post this comment, and I do have some suggestions to cut down the cost for your build! 1. Used parts - you can get used parts for cheaper, ram has extremely low risk getting used, followed by CPU and GPU. If you are considering used parts for hard drives, only do it for your boot drive and put nothing important on it. 2. Off-market rgb strips: If you plan to rgb your build on a budget, I would suggest getting a cheap aftermarket rgb strip (Be sure to check if it is 5V addressable or 12V analog, whichever matches your mobo rgb headers) and use adhesive (like 3M command strips) to afix it in the case. You won't have the convenience of magnetic strip but it is cheap. 3. micro-ATX motherboard: Unless you are doing SLI or crossfire, you probably don't really need an ATX board. A mATX board can comfortable fit a graphics card and a wifi adapter or anything you need. A mATX mobo is usually a little cheaper than an ATX one. 4. PSU: You probably don't need 1000W. Looking at your build, 600W will be more than enough. Some other points: 1. Get a 128GB or 256GB SSD for your boot drive. 2. There are black market windows 10 keys. This is purely informative and you should NOT buy them. 3. There is a great site comparing key prices called cheapdigitaldownload.com 4. I have heard that you can flash Vega 56 firmware to get Vega 64-like performance but have yet to verify it.