TheScorpio

Video that shows few boxes: https://twitter.com/harukaze5719/status/1324017885300228096?s=20 Translation: For the first time in Saudi and even before the official announcement.

So I understand that there were some issues regarding these models made in 2018 and they were later revisioned in 2019. I am kinda in a dilemma at the moment, my local market is running out of stock, there's only the Asus Strix 750w (200$) and a bunch of scary no-name brands mixed with some awful ones such as (GAMEMAX, thermaltake litepower, deepcool, aerocool, raidmax). and I am kinda on the fence to buy the asus one since its based on the Seasonic Focus and I've heard some issues about it in the past, I am not sure which revision the asus currently has (whether it has been fixed or not) and I do have a GTX 1080Ti which is one of the persumed problematic GPU's with that PSU. (with an i7-8700k, both are both overclocked). My other option is to buy a unit from the states or euro (newegg/amazon) and pay 70$ for shipping (which could equal to 200$ same price as the ASUS) which is not ideal as I lose warranty + wait weeks for shipping. My Current PSU is the thermaltake EVO Blue 2.0 (750w Gold), it's fine its just I am passing it to my nas and buying a new PSU for my main machine I thought I'd ask you guys since you're probably more informed about these things that I am. My enviroment is not the most forgiving (It's up to 120F / 48-50C) everyday here and indoor temps would be on average in the (30's C / 86 F) so heat will be present no matter what (not sure how much that would matter, I guess what Im trying to say is that 0db fan will kick in in most cases). Another bonus question is that the Asus PSU cables come with capacitors and I already have cable extensions (will the extensions midigate the persumed usefulness of the capacitors or it really doesn't matter) Thanks in Advance!

Honestly I thought I posted this on the networking forum but I might've messed up (It was a long day ok) I assure you I know how port forwarding works, and I've tested over many routers (at least 4 Huawei and 4 Netgear), with and without the 10$ subscription for a dedicated static IP instead of a Dynamic one. I've been trying to port forward on every single router i've obtained in the last 10 years, just to see if router based or ISP. Its just the internet that I use is the 5G/LTE variant and not your standard dsl/fiber box, we put SIM cards into our routers and whatever blocking system they've got makes it impossible to open ports. Here's a quick setting on how to set port forwarding on Huawei 5G CPE PRO, confirmed by "Portforward.com" I even setup DMZ on my local IP. and I also have a response from my ISP on twitter saying you can not port-forward.

I hate to break it to you but the UMC isnt really meant to be a headphone amp, I have the UM2 for my XLR mic and I'd never use its headphone built it, its really muddy as you said, I don't really think its meant to be used as a headphone amp, its more for direct monitoring your XLR input. with that being said, even the UM2 had a horrible white hiss on the mic when I first plugged it in, turns out that was due to microsoft drivers that get automatically installed, I had to find a very old driver that was meant for this device and after that the white hiss was gone and the mic sounded much better. Bear in mine BEHRINGER doesn't support these drivers anymore, they only support universal ASIO drivers that are meant to work on DAWs only and not "windows".. I think your best bet is probably trying to find its actual drivers which are old, I doubt they exist but goodluck maybe that would help the amp part of it. I use the Fiio E10k for reference as my amp

Hello everyone, So, I've been tinkering with unraid lately and was trying to setup some port-forwarding through my router, I've always known that my ISP blocks port forwarding unless you shell out a 10$ monthly for a static IP. However, I've noticed that my plex still works outside my network because it is able to open ports through UpnP, So I've been wondering if its possible to setup a program that would open ports through UPnP then? mostly through Linux (well unraid), because it seems possible, I Even tried to setup OpenVPN but I couldnt manually port forward so I switched to WireGuard and it works flawlessly since it just uses UPnP.

Okay so excuse my ignorance, and lack of knowledge when it comes to networking as I am an entry level user getting my hands wet into the world of networking and NAS and I plan on building a nas in the following months. I was wondering whether transferring files over to the nas or vice versa at the maximum speed of a 1GBit NIC would slow down the internet? My Setup would be as the following: I have a standalone 5G/LTE router/modem that brings me all my internet connection, it has two RJ45 ports and I plan on connecting them as following: My Router (1Gbit RJ45) -> PC (1Gbit RJ45) My Router (1Gbit RJ45) -> NAS (1Gbit RJ45) Meanwhile, my internet speeds are somewhere between 500Mbps and 700Mbps. Sure its not the full gigabit but lets assume that I am copying some large files over the network at the full speed of the 120-130MB/s ish and then trying to download a steam game on my PC normally? In theory, one of them will slow down? right? since the 1GB NIC will be fully saturated. I know that is not a very likely scenario for a home user and I might not ever run into this issue but I just wanted to know. Also a bonus question: I happen to have two LTE broadband routers/modems that I use for the internet, one exclusively for me and the other is for my family. Let's say if I wanted to connect both networks to the nas? How would I do that? install 2 NICs on the nas and feed each port to both networks? or get a switch somewhere and connect everything? (I do not want to share my internet connection with them or take and bandwidth from them) I only want the nas to connect to both networks. THANKS!

Thanks, really appreciate it, I'll just buy me a certified one and see how it goes

It could be, though the old system had the same PSU and it was running An overclocked system, this one is stock and probably uses less wattage/power

So, ever since I've switched my MOBO, installed a pcie cable extender, my new system wouldnt power on unless I unplug the DisplayPort cable then re-attach it after pressing the powerbutton? I dont know if this has to do with the quality of the cable but im pretty sure its a knock-off kind, but it worked just fine before switching my system, does anyone have any insights to whats happening?

I've done that the first time, i put the case back in its packaging and tilted it around, it did work the air out, but it seems like there was some pressure still that didnt let the pump run, well fortunately, for now at least.. when i turn it off, leave it for a bit, then turn it back on, its working... if it doesnt, i'll tilt and do everything i can, another big issue with this system, is that its doesnt power ON when i have DisplayPort on..... apparently I've a cheapo knock-off one ? or something .. idk man this is really making me hate watercooling, this is my 2nd system, supposed to be better psht

its not at max, its at 4 out of 5 (5 being max) and no i dont, thats probably one of the issues lol.. seriously this reservoir has been nothing but a pain in the butt

EDIT, I've drained and re-filled the loop again....... as usual, its working for now, but when i turn off the pump, the air tries to sneak back to the radiator, since i guess its the higher point, and when the system is running, i cant really fill it to the max to avoid air in the system, Because I have to fill it from the port at the TOP RIGHT - and when I do that, theres only so much that I can fill before it starts pushing back, because the inlet is on the opposite side.. and i cant fill from the top, cause i need another port open to let air in, eh its a weird setup and its frustrating me - Sometimes now when i start the system, the pump wouldnt work unless i unscrew one port, then re-tighten it, it would work, with a slight pushing back and forth.. so I suppose you were right about the airpocket, its just a weird one -___-

I dont think so, cause ive been rocking this case back and forth and currently air has passed the radiator and cpu block, and stuck in-between the tube that's linking cpu and reservoir, its still not working

So i just finished my build and for some odd reason, ever since i switched the pump from the standalone EK mount to a res-combo, it randomly stops, first time i got it out, re-attached it, then it worked again, now after a while when i re-powered my system, it stops working, i can hear a hum, idk whatsup with it, i just turn it off right away so it doesnt run dry... You can see the fluid level in the pics, its not moving Btw its running off Molex, and i did switch the cable, nothing worked

Unofficial update since im on my phone, this thing has turned into a nightmare, seriously so many issues, nothing is fitting, nothing is aligning up, pump failing, pc wont start without me removing display cables then re-attaching them, despite all that, i still finished it, granted... Only the first edition, didnt include gpu since ive only 240 rad now, but my biggest issue is that the pump is failing randomly, if i shutdown power then re-power it, the pump doesnt work, i drained the loop, got the pump out, re-attached it then it worked, now 3h later it stopped again, im suspecting the reservoir isnt feeding it properly, idk why, i can hear a hum, but I just stop it Right away since i dont want it to run dry Sidenote: forgot to order noctua white rubber thingies, ill stick with orange LTT for now... I really need this pc to work I have stuff to do

Is this normal? Its brand new out of the box --- Cause I have an old alphacool radiator which I avoided using for the new build because it has the same discoloration inside after 3+ years of use, so if this is normal with brand new copper radiators, then. I might as well use it

Sad sad news, my old loop is pretty gunked up i cant salvage my old radiator, i knew something was up when temps were high, but i never bothered to fully disassemble it since colors didnt change, i kept on changing the water regularly and dropping pt nuke, it lasted me more than 3 years im okay with throwing them Anyways, here are the pics of the old loop after disassembling my old pc ---- D5 before -- after: Im okay with re-using it since it was only dirt, its pretty clean now ------- Radiator that i wanted to salvage: I did clean it very well, even with vinegar but man I really dont wanna mess up the new loop or run a risk of this radiator leeching debrees overtime or changing colors or whatever, so I think ill just wait and buy a new EK 360 radiator since their quality is superb, seriously alphacool ones look cheap in comparison, not to mention they come shipped pretty dirty out of the factory and so on ------- For reference: heres my old block, yep a horrible beed of dirt and junk, no wonder i had high idle temps i did clean it just to see how bad it really is, turns out its not that bad, especially for running almost 4 years lol, I tossed it anyways since I have a new one (not that its compatible anyways) ----- Current update: I am going to build the system and use my new EK 240 radiator, then eventually when I get the new 360 I will install that On a brighter note, LOOK what ive got

Yeah, they for sure did leech a whole lot of crap I guess ill just use my new 240 for now, or maybe throw a stock intel heatsink for a month, so i dont have to waste any rigid tubing lol, till i buy a new radiator

Im not going to use the same block, or cpu ive a new one - i only put the pic of the block for reference, its already in the dumpster haha My new build - i7-8700k I might just bail on that radiator and buy a new one later on lol

I think i should stop cheaping out and buy me a new 360, since i already bought a new 240 from EK, and their radiators seem to be made very well tbh, alphacool have always seemed very cheap honestly, especially with the fact that they come unclean

So, ive disassembled my 3years+ old system because i wanted to take its 360 alphacool rad and d5 pump for my newer build, But I've foundout that my loop is kinda gunked up and probably corroded but Ive no idea how bad it is, Ive always known about it since my cpu temps were higher than usual, I used to change the loop water every 6-10 months, (distilled water +pt nuke) the water never shifted color or anything, so i never really bothered to fully disassemble the blocks, kinda wish i did now.... here are some photos, can i still salvage that radiator? My new loop is filled with new parts, and id hate it if this messed up radiator would corrode my new parts ----- D5 before After: Pretty clean, it was only dirt, can be re-used for sure ------- Heres the radiator: its ports had blue gunk on them which i cleaned, but im more worried about the inside? Sorry i cant take a closer pic but it does have some slight discoloration on the inside, ive cleaned it with distilled water and used some vinegar, still worried if it would mess up my new loop or not. ---- Cpu block: for reference, its pretty bad lol, it has a bead of dirt on the middle But upon further cleaning and dumping it in distilled water with vinegar, look what happend That was a quick wash, its still not perfect but it tells me that the corrosion or whatever isnt as bad as i see in some pics, i still threw the block away since ive a new one, but im worried about that radiator, and I kinda dont wanna wait another month to buy one, since my new system is already disassembled and ready for the new loop lol

WOOOOO Finally got them, Few friends helped hook me up a little bit since it was my birthday two days ago that was nice of them I've got all the main components now.... excluding the Ram, YES LOL I couldn't afford it... surprisingly enough, TridentZ RGB Kits were super overpriced compared to last month. I really didn't want to cheap out and get a cheaper kit since that would hurt the build, I also wanted to see how much space I have after installing the top radiator and fan, most people cant seem to fit any regular sized RAM, or Corsair's own RGB kits with this case (hopefully my MOBO has enough clearance), thats why im opting for TridentZ since they are among the shortest rams out there (44mm - with RGB of course).. So, I'll just have to wait till the end of this month to buy them, since I need some tools anyways. On a positive NOTE: I will start building this thing pretty soon so that I can deal with the problems that can occur when watercooling, since its my first time using RIGID Tubing, not to mention I've no place to mount my huge reservoir (might have to cut it).. Anyways, The PC wouldn't post without the ram (I know that would bug me so bad, i can feel it) the thread will be updated regularly with Posts and Pictures hopefully soon enough (I just have to setup a working space away from home where I have 7 cats ) I've also decided to keep my old PSU (FREAKING JET ENGINE WHEN GAMING) and SSD as my boot drive for now, since I can just upgrade them down the line and they wouldn't interfere with the building process

Well, I bought the Corsair 570x Case and realized that my 240 Alphacool radiator wont fit because its 45mm thick which wont leave any space for the fans, it might even interfere with the Ram slots by itself, So I just ordered EK Slim SE 26mm radiator (240) and their CPU block : Supremacy Evo It sure sucks losing some extra thickness by moving to this case, but Im sure it will be alright, my new system should run a lot more efficient than my old one anyways! I have also bought some cable extensions, and a G1/4 male to male fitting that I need for the draining port. ----------------------------- The build is coming along nicely, I'm only missing Ram, CPU and MOBO at this point... and its been really difficult finding any i7-8700k in stock anywhere, thats why I'll try and buy the other components until they finally bring the cpu locally. otherwise, I'm gonna have to wait until for it to pop up anywhere in the world and buy it. but for now, its out of my budget for this month I know its a slow process build but eh! bear with me

for those who are curious, i did solve the issue, but took longer than expected... So I connected the drive via "USB 3 -> Sata connector" that i took off an old hard drive It showed up as a corrupted drive asking me to format, I used a program called "Recover My Files v5", had it scan the SSD, it took ages, over 15h+ i just left it be, came back home it was all done, Make sure you save the session right away (because the program is laggy and becomes unresponsive a lot), once you save the session you can restart the program and still wont loose all that time you spent waiting for it to search. Anyways, afterwards all my data showed up and i was able to recover them with the program, then formatted the drive and installed fresh OS Thats the only solution I found.

The Faulty SSD does show up on BIOS But The installation media wont even boot up only after unplugging the SSD, I've tried unplugging it -> Booting the Windows USB stick -> Plugging it back in -> Refreshing Installation media = Nothing, still undetected