Jump to content

iMot3k

Member
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    France

System

  • CPU
    i7 7700K @4.2Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asrock B250M Pro-4
  • RAM
    32G
  • GPU
    RTX 2070 Super
  • Case
    Zallman Z9 U3
  • Storage
    1x M.2 Samsung EVO 1TB, 2x Segate 1TB, 1x Segate 4TB
  • PSU
    Corsair CX750M
  • Display(s)
    1x 2560x1440@144Hz, 2x 1920x1080@60
  • Cooling
    BeQuiet! SilentLoop 240
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 MK2
  • Mouse
    MSI DS100
  • Sound
    Focusrite Scarlett Solo + Meze 99 Classics
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • Laptop
    MacBook Air 2017

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well I just plugged it back in and it worked first try... There is exactly the same configuration as before (used it as a dumb switch so I changed nothing), but yeah, very strange behaviour.
  2. Hi, Yes I did, it went back to RouterOS and I had a lot of trouble. I did a lot more testing and it turns out that the MikroTik had big troubles getting DHCP from Windows Server (when switched to SwOS, it defaults to DHCP and fall back to static if it doesn't find any). The problem is that it wasn't able to get DHCP, but it kept trying and never took any IP address, that's why I couldn't acces it. I also tried doing a DHCP server with TFTP32 (and connecting the switch directly to my computer), but it was doing exactly the same thing. The exact time at wich the lease was "given" by the server kept updating on TFTP32, like if the switch was trying endlessly to get an address. Finally, I got my iPhone to share his internet connexion (and thus create a DHCP server), and bridged my wifi interface and the wired interface connected to the switch. It took an IP from the iPhone's DHCP and I could finally login in the web interface and change the MikroTik's IP to be exclusively static. I'm back to the point where I was just trying to use it as a dumb switch, I'll try putting it back in my network in a few hours and I'll keep you updated.
  3. Hi, I'm in the middle of replacing my ISP's router DHCP server by a Windows Server DHCP. Everything works fine except that my CRS305 won't let any traffic through at all. First I thought the MikroTik wouldn't let the DHCP offers pass, but even if I connect a static client behind it, absolutely no taffic. I have plenty of other switches (managed and unmanaged), and everything worked fine with them. Only this one won't let any traffic through. Cheers
  4. Thanks for your reply! Yep that what I thaught, I found some pictures of the sub opened that I'll upload. I think changing the caps may be a good idea indeed, I think I'll try it. Thanks again!
  5. Hi, I'm asking this here because I'm having a hard time to find a solution to this... I'm the proud owner of an Altec Lansing FX5051, a 5.1 powered speakers set from the mid 2000s. The thing is that when powered on (not with AC but after I pressed the standby button), it makes a pretty loud white noise (not a 60Hz hum, but pretty much all frequencies at the same time). I know that it's not my input's fault, it's exactly the same thing with no input connected, I also tried to put them in a room with no RF signals, exactly the same thing, so I'm pretty sure it's the set's fault. I know it's a bit dated, so I thought it may be aging electronics? I also know it doesn't use any switching power supply, instead it's a good old transformer. Maybe he is the problem? I also know that the problem occurs after the amplification part, because changing the volume on the wired command doesn't change the noise level. I'm honestly not sure, I want to know if some of you already had these problems with powered speaker sets in the past, and if you have any idea of where it could come from. Thanks a lot
  6. Ok, I understand even less now. I tried to plug it into the LAN port, and it worked! I could see the printer when trying to print with my IOS device. Even AirPlay worked again. But now, 10 minutes later, everything broke again. No printers in the settings...
  7. Uhm, I connected everything to the wan port, but I can acces my NAS and my local network on my wifi so... I don't know
  8. I found the issue, check if you can force your graphic's card PCIe slot in pci gen3 mode. It helped me.
  9. Hi, I recently moved from a Unify AP wireless setup to an Asus XD6. I put it in AP mode so it just acts as an access point. The thing is, since I switched APs, printing over Wi-Fi has stopped working. I have a Canon MF8500C Series that doesn't support Wi-Fi, but I connected it with an ethernet cable, and everything worked for a few years. Now, wireless printing doesn't work anymore, either on windows, linux or macos. As soon as I connect the laptop to an ethernet jack, printing works again. I don't understand how it is possible. I checked the router's settings, and there is no strange firewall rule or anything. Another thing I discovered is that Spotify Connect doesn't work anymore over wifi. When I play a song on my wired computer, I can share it to my receiver without any problems, but if I try to do that over wifi, it doesn't work. It's really strange, looks like it's a firewall problem, but I looked at every categories or menus in the router's settings, I found nothing. It even says "The XD6 is in AP mode, so they will be no firewall". That's really strange. If anyone ever had this problem with an Asus Wi-fi router, let me know
  10. Hi! I have got a little problem for 3 months by now. I got a new graphics card (RTX 3070 from Gigabyte) and since then I have a lot of problems with my computer. First one: when I start a screenshare on Discord (or others communications platforms) my mouse and keyboard starts to freeze for like one second, and my audio crackles. In Discord tho, when I change window the preview of the screenshare stops and the problems seems to disappear. Second one: When I use the Lumetri effect in Premiere Pro, the exact same problem is happening. Mouse and keyboard freezes for a second, and then unfreeze, and then freeze... Audio crackles too. Third one: When I open OBS, I connect my DSLR to my Camlink 4K and everything is fine. But as soon as I start to record, stream or start the virtual camera, the Camlink source just stops working, and the camlink can't be deactivated / reactivated without the source crashing again one second after. The only way to make this work is to set the camlink to "Isochronous" transfer mode, which makes the video very laggy). I tried x264 encoding AND nvenc, but it's always the same. When I have these problems sometimes my mouse pointer just goes at the bottom right of my screen, (and sometimes right click)... I don't really understand why it's doing that, I tried to make a fresh install of windows with the only program installed being the Nvidia driver, and when the driver was active, the issue was there. When I disabled the Nvidia driver, these freezes stop happening. I tried to put the graphics card in a computer with a 7700k and everything worked just fine. I use a Corsair K70 MK2 and a Logitech G203 Lightsync as my peripherals, and my audio is from a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. My computer is a Ryzen 9 3900x with a B550 motherboard. Gen4 SSD and 64G of ram. This is driving me nuts, that's why I'm asking for your help :( Thanks
  11. Well I got a mini-ITX motherboard with dual gigabit lan on it. I've seen people do Static link aggregations and got it working with this modem so I wanted to do a SLA between two ports of the modem and my pfsense, and then pull the trafic from the 2.5G card to my 10G switch where my equipments are connected.
  12. No, the modem has an integrated ONT and have 4 ethernet ports on the back each capable of 1Gbit/s, and you can pull 2Gbit/s in total (1Gig on two port as the same time). I can't remove this modem because the ISP blocks others modems and I need the TV box.
  13. Yeah and the problem is that the ISP locked everything down. It's very complicated to change the router with another one because the ISP's network will not accept the new one in most cases, so that's why I wanted to stick with it. Also the pfsense box that I used only has a 4x PCI slot, that's why I cheaped out on the card, 10G cards are 8x
×