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I don't have an oven that is not used for cooking. The closest thing I have to that is a wood fireplace, which I would imagine is not temperature-controlled enough. So I guess baking it is out.

Yes

OK, since I really do not want to break my machine more (there's a few months left until I want to get a new laptop and even then I want to have this one replace my raspberry pi as my server), I will only attempt to repair the mobo if it becomes completely unusable. Until then, I'll look into software workarounds to try to prevent the failing GPU from bringing down the whole system when it misbehaves, because nobody has any free repair ideas that don't carry a risk of breaking it more.

I just don't think it makes financial sense to do that. That procedure appears to cost hundreds of dollars, which is more than what a mobo off ebay or even an entire new machine would cost. OK, what's the temperature tolerence of lego plastic, so I can have my machine alert me when it gets too hot for that? Or would it be a better idea to use cut up popsicle sticks? And what's the extent of the badness of this idea? Are there any better repairs that won't cost me any money, am I better off leaving it alone, or is the pressure idea the best idea despite how bad it is?

How do we know that the processing unit is damaged and that it's not the solder? And how would the processing unit have gotten damaged if that's my problem?

I think my laptop's GPU is failing. The laptop still works correctly most of the time (I'm typing this on the laptop in question), but sometimes it fails to wake up from sleep and sometimes the screen freezes with artifacts and Linux becomes unresponsive. Sometimes, after an incident, it takes several attempts to reboot, but as far as I can tell the machine is actually still booting but just without video output. These events seem more likely to happen while I'm moving the laptop, especially if I don't accelerate and decelerate gradually. This makes me think that the soldering between the motherboard and GPU is bad, which appears to be a common issue with Nvidia GPUs made in the late 2000s and early 2010s. (My machine, to the best of my knowledge, is from late 2010.) I can partially work around the issue by never moving the laptop and never putting it to sleep, but this is a horribly impractical solution because I need my machine to be portable. However, I do not want to replace the laptop yet, especially since it is still very fast and I just spent $5 on thermal paste for it to fix an overheating issue. At the very least, I want it to last until the holiday deals, but ideally I want to wait until back to school 2021-2022, where it is more certain whether I will be physically going to college (in which case I'll need a new machine due to this machine's short battery life) or staying at home (in which case I can keep the machine for another semester or year and get more value for my money when I do replace it). I can think of two solutions to this problem: Putting pressure on the GPU package by putting something like an eraser or a couple lego bricks between the cooler and the case, and doing the classic baking of the motherboard to reflow the solder. However, I've heard that there are significant risks to both procedures. Specifically, I've heard that the pressure technique can cause stress fractures in the motherboard and punctures in the heat pipes, and that the oven technique can damage and detach components, and even start fires in extreme cases. First of all, until I do any action, my intuition tells me that it is better to leave it on continuously to avoid putting more heat cycles on it. Is this true, or is it better to put it to sleep or turn it off? Also, is it better to wait until it dies completely or otherwise becomes completely unusable, or is it better to "fix it before it gets worse" aka immidiately? And finally, out of the solutions I proposed, which is a better idea (more chance of fixing the problem and less chance of breaking it more), or is there an even better idea than both of those that I didn't think of?

Can't exactly do a (reasonably performing) VM on a phone, but I'll do the router trick. That'll get me to two VPNs, unless both of my routers can do VPNs, in which case I'll have three.

I don't think I'm paranoid. I also don't know what level of resources my adversary has. I don't think she has access to the NSA, but you can never be too safe. Also, I how do I chain VPNs on Android? I can't seem to find any information on it other than this thread that went nowhere and this article full of VPN shilling that only appears to cover the process on PCs. Is it even possible to do such a thing on Android without rooting (because the shitheads at LG made that impossible on my phone)?

If Tor is "suspicious", why aren't VPNs also "suspicious"? From the perspective of the website, they both do the same thing: obscuring the originating IP address.

An adversary might appear in a Zoom call that I have to attend, so I'm trying to hide my IP address because it's tied to my home address and I don't want my adversary to know where I live. I want to use Tor because it will hide my IP address in case Zoom has an exploit or leak, or in case I get social engineered to click a link that goes to an IP logger. I do not trust VPNs because they are a single point that knows both my IP and what I'm doing, and therefore have the ability to leak said data. (I don't think my adversary has the resources to pay off a VPN provider to leak my data, but I'm just trying to be cautious.) Whereas with Tor, one entity knows who I am, one knows what I'm doing, and neither know who I am, making it significantly more difficult for my IP to get exposed. (I'm NOT trying to hide my entire identity, just my IP.) I'm using my phone because I am required by my school to use a webcam, which eliminates my personal laptop. In order to connect my school chromebook to Tor, I have to do a whole bunch of complicated networking wisardry that I can't even get to work and that nobody seems willing to help me with, so I think it'll be safer and easier to just use my phone. I am trying to connect to Zoom through its mobile app using Orbot's built-in VPN to connect to Tor. However, when I do that, Zoom just sits there "Preparing the meeting" forever. Although it does not work through Tor, it happily works through Windscribe VPN and a direct connection. However, I really want to use Tor. Is this a problem with my configuration, is there a hidden CAPTCHA that they don't tell me about, does Zoom block Tor, or is this a result of Tor not having enough bandwidth to do Zoom calls? If it's the first or second case, what could I do to try to fix it? If it's the third or fourth case, is it possible to daisy chain 3 VPNs to create a similar effect, or am I stuck using only one VPN? Also, how do IP addresses on T-Mobile's mobile network work? Is my home IP or my mobile data IP less likely to be traceable to my home address? If I'm stuck with just a VPN, I want to at least use it on the safer network.

Is the laptop dumb enough to let you hook up any power source to the battery input pins as long as it's the correct voltage, or will it refuse to draw power if it can't communicate with the battery even if there's voltage? If it's the former, try making your own battery with 18650s. If you are unwilling to do that, maybe try a supercapacitor on there to look like there's a battery and run it off a power bank. If it's the latter, I've got nothing.

OK, that horrible 1.5 year old security exploit came in handy for making my data backup. Like, in this one case I'm thankful for it because it enabled me to back up my own data, but why the fuck is that allowed to continue to exist? I think the vulnerability is older than the phone and definitely older than its patch level, so abandonment isn't even an excuse here. This is a fucking disaster. I'm turning off ADB so hopefully it's more difficult to get a shell. Also, I feel bad for people using iPhones. How do people even tolerate this kind of thing? My next device is definitely not going to be an LG. I hope the Pinephone is fit for human consumption (even if still on Android) by the time this device dies.

My mom died, and my dad gave me her LG K40 (which makes it my first phone, but my second Android device, my first being a tablet) under the condition that I back up all the data on it before I start to use it. It seems like a good phone, and is a big upgrade from my tablet, so it sounds like a good deal. To make sure I get everything, I want to get an image of the entire /data block device that I can mount as a loopback device and browse on my laptop. Then, for my privacy, security, and sanity, I want to get rid of LG's crappy UI, bloatware, and Google spyware by flashing it with LineageOS and maybe microG if I have to. From what I can find online, the procedure seems like it is supposed to be: 1. Go into the developer options and enable USB debugging and OEM unlocking 2. Run adb reboot bootloader and fastboot oem unlock to unlock the bootloader 3. Use fastboot to flash an unofficial twrp image and then reboot into TWRP 4. From TWRP, use the built in backup function (or the shell and dd) to make an image of /data, put it on a microSD card, and attempt to mount it on my laptop to be sure it's good. 5. Flash the Treble enabler zip, the LineageOS GSI, and then the SU zip 6. Reboot into the civilized environment, where I finish setting up my phone Unfortunately, I ran into problems, because the sadistic murderers who develop phones love to make basic operations unnecessarily and unreasonably difficult. I can do step 1 just fine, but ```adb reboot bootloader``` just reboots the phone back into Android, where of course it doesn't respond to fastboot commands. The phone does have a download mode, but as far as I can tell that is only useful for flashing the phone back to stock using a Windows-only proprietary flash tool. Additionally, it looks like it is supposed to have a recovery mode, but all it does is display an Android on its back for a few minutes with the words "Sin commando" (probably "Without command" in Spanish) and then reboot to Android. Neither download mode nor recovery mode respond to fastboot commands, so bootloader unlocking by the normal means does not seem possible. I did discover a tool called mtk-su which uses some kind of security exploit to get me a temproary root shell, and that appears to work, so at the very least I can use that to make my backup, even if it's not exactly what I had in mind. It also makes me even more hopeful that I can get another OS on there, because being able to do something like that is extremely concerning. However, I do not yet want to try to dd a recovery image onto the recovery partition because I don't know which block device is the recovery partition and I think that the device's bootloader is still locked and I don't want to make it refuse to boot because of a recovery signature mismatch. However, since I now have control over the running OS, I think I should be able to use that to unlock the bootloader. I just don't know the command, and for some reason search engines can't take the hint that I'm looking for a command to unlock the bootloader from the device itself, not adb and fastboot commands that run on a host PC. However, on another site, I asked this question, and got told that the device does not have an unlockable bootloader, which is why I'm concerned that this may have been made impossible for no reason. TLDR: I cannot use fastboot, but I have a root shell. Is there a command I can execute FROM THE PHONE ITSELF to unlock my bootloader, or did LG go out of their way to make their device as annoying as possible to use and guarantee that it will be the last ever LG device of everyone who buys it?

You won't break it because it will turn off before it gets hot enough to do that, but you'll probably reduce the life span a bit. However, it is possible that it may be throttling. If either of those are a concern, maybe do a repaste and if the ambient temperature in the case is also high, consider a getting a case fan or removing the side panel.

My dad claims he spent $200 on it and it has a Pentium, so probably. I don't think it was $200 as it has better specs and build quality than most $200 laptops and even some $300 laptops today (which is sad), but it probably was cheap. But what else could have mercury? Or is it more likely that they just put that sticker on everything until CCFL was abolished from their whole lineup like the other user suggested?

If it's not supposed to be opened, why wouldn't they use better thermal paste and dust filters that will actually last the lifetime of the laptop? 1. I am pretty sure it does. The laptop advertises "15.6 inch HD LED LCD" on a nearly unremovable sticker. 2. But they do care about RAM, hard drive, wi-fi card, and CMOS battery replacements? 4. What reasons could they possibly have to do that? 5. I understand that today, they are usually just USB pointing devices. Back then, were they more integrated with the specific laptop model, and that's why their parts can be "spread out" like that? 6/8. Why not? Obviously it is designed so you have to take it apart for maintanance. 10. If it's good to do it that way, why not add an access panel for dust removal, or use an everything-attached-to-the-palmrest design? From what I understand, dust removal and repasting is much more frequent than keyboard and trackpad replacement. 11. My laptop is also 10 years old, albiet a higher end 10 year old laptop, so technology advancing isn't relevant here.

Yesterday, my dad's 10 year old laptop overheated and shut down three times, and I noticed that there was barely any airflow and heat coming out of the fan vent, so I figured it was time to clean the dust out for the first time in the laptop's life. While doing so, I noticed some strange design elements, and I'm wondering if there's any good reason for them, or if it's just Acer being weird. On the bottom, there is a circle with the letters "Hg" despite the computer using an LED backlight, while AFAIK only CCFL backlights have mercury. Where else could there be mercury? There is a panel you can remove to access the RAM, Wi-Fi card, CMOS battery, and hard drive (replaced with an SSD) without disassembling the computer, which are things that most people will do once in the lifetime of the computer if at all. However, there is no panel to access the cooling system for dust removal or repasting, which is supposed to be routine maintanance. Unlike every other laptop where everything is attached to the palmrest and then the bottom panel goes on, this laptop has everything attached to the bottom panel and then the palmrest goes on. I think this is a better design because you usually have to replace the keyboard or trackpad more often than you have to replace the bottom panel, and this design makes keyboard/trackpad replacements easier at the expense of making bottom panel replacements harder. However, won't it make it more difficult to design and therefore more expensive to do it differently from every other laptop in existence? In order to remove the palmrest, you have to remove screws on both sides, and the screws on the top are under the keyboard, making it necessary to pry the keyboard off of the palmrest in every disassembly, which could be easily avoided by just having the screws on the bottom and not on top. The buttons for clicking are not built in to the trackpad module where most people would expect them. Instead, they are built in to the motherboard. Most connectors are on the top of the motherboard, enabling them to be unplugged and replugged easily. (Remember that the top comes off, not the bottom.) However, two (backlight power and right-side USB) are on the bottom, requiring you to do motherboard gymnastics to unplug them in a motherboard removal and replug them when done. There is a dedicated daughterboard for the optical drive slimline SATA connector, and it is connected to the motherboard with a ~0.5 inch cable. Why not just put the slimline SATA connector directly on the cable or make the motherboard slightly longer there to remove the need for the cable? I thought more parts meant more manufacturing steps, which costs a bunch more money, and certainly more than a tiny bit of extra PCB area. Is this incorrect? For some reason, the optical drive cable is very inflexible, requiring the optical drive connector daughterboard to come off before unplugging it, creating an extra disassembly step. The USB ports on the right side are connected by a ribbon cable that lacks both twisted differential pairs (which I thought was required for cables by the USB standard) and electromagnetic shielding (which would reduce the need for differential pairs), and this cable goes approximately half the width of the laptop. Won't this degrade the signal quality and reduce either the reliability or the maximum speed of those two ports? Instead of putting the the motherboard near the bottom and having the cooling system on top where it can be easily accessed, the motherboard has really long standoffs that bring it all the way to the top, and the heatsink is installed on the bottom, making a motherboard removal necessary to get at the cooling system for dust cleaning and repasting, and also making the motherboard vulnerable to pressure from pushing on the palmrest, which happens to be really thin and flexible once removed. The heat pipe is really thick and really stiff. The CPU (Pentium P6100) has a 35W TDP and there are no discrete graphics, but my laptop with a 45W TDP on both the CPU and discrete GPU uses thinner heat pipes. Why a thicker heat pipe for less heat dissipation? The chipset has an exposed die suggesting that it should have some degree of cooling, but it has no cooling. It doesn't connect to the heat pipe, it doesn't have a heatsink, it doesn't have a vent near it, and the laptop doesn't have any case fans so there is no airflow over it. However, obviously it worked fine for 10 years. Is there any other reason to have an exposed die?

Won't looking happy still offend people, even if I am diplomatic and "sympathetic to the reality that some people did like her" at the same time?

Since there's questions about what I'm trying to do, I'm being forced to appear on my mom's memorial zoom call. She was an evil bitch and I'm glad she can't ruin my life anymore, but I don't want to offend the other people there, so I think pretending to be sad, while suboptimal, is the best solution.

I need to appear very sad on a zoom call (I will both appear on camera and be speaking), when I am in fact happy. How do I do that convincingly?

My dad gave me an assignment to find a cloud storage service. Here are the requirements: "A couple GB" (he refuses to give an exact number) of storage Free, and not self hosted as we don't have enough bandwidth and need it today We can share folders by link, and anyone with the link can add files to the folder, whether or not they have an account. (It is OK if the owner has to have an account, but nobody else should have to have one.) The closest thing I can find is Google Drive, but adding stuff to a link-shared folder requires an account. Dropbox appears to require the folder to be shared with specific people. pCloud and Box appear to have the functionality to let people with the link view a folder, but appear to require someone to have to have an account and be invited to edit. And it also appears that most services do not make it clear whether they have this capability, and require you to actually sign up and try to make a folder like that, which is inconvenient. Does anyone know if the kind of service I'm looking for actually exists at all?

If there was an electrical short in the connector, extreme amounts of current would have flown through the motherboard, maybe the memory controller, memory connectors, and the pins on the memory boards. However, the RAM dies themselves are downstream of the point where the short is created, so they will get hardly any current. The circuitry and mobo traces supporting the RAM are often way more sensitive than the pins that they eventually lead up to, which are basically just relatively large metal pads, so the supporting circuitry or mobo traces would likely have gone long before the pins on the RAM would have.

M.2 and the RAM slots are not designed to support hotplugging. The m.2 slot was likely powered down when your system was asleep, so you probably could have gotten away with that, but sleep keeps the RAM powered. You may have shorted out some pins while unplugging something, caused an inductor voltage spike from the sudden disappearance of an electrical load, or done something else nasty to your motherboard. Maybe as a last resort, remove all power from the system (all mains, all batteries, all peripherals), hold the power button for a few seconds, restore power, and try to turn it on again. It is also possible you fried your CPU because that is where the memory controller is, but on most laptops these days the CPU is soldered.

I know it's 10 years old, but the screen, keyboard, and trackpad are still better than ones I see on many new machines today, it's still very fast, and it just generally holds up very well, so I do not consider it to be obsolete yet. This leaves me with a few questions: 1. When buying a new machine, is there any way to predict reliability other than brand reputation? 2. Could changing the thermal paste have possibly broken it, or is it just a coincidence? 2. Will a dead GPU continue to give me problems if I uninstall the GPU driver and use my machine as a server, possibly with the display removed?

I don't think it could have affected it. USB uses 5V, NVMe uses 3.3V. The USB device has its data pins connected directly to the USB controller, which might or might not be connected to the PCIe controller. I believe NVMe drives go right to the PCIe controller, but I think there might be USB pins on there as well, but I'm not sure if they are connected. For your USB device to have broken the NVMe, it would had to have sent a high voltage burst onto the 5V rail that also causes craziness on the 3.3V rail, or it would had to have sent high voltage over the differential pairs that traveled upstream to a different part of the system. Almost anything is possible, so your USB might have broken your NVMe, but it would be very difficult for it to do so, and it would probably destroy many other things in the process due to all the components it would have to go through.