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RimanDk

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  1. Fair question! Yes. Yes, I do :). The USB hub comes with its own power supply and it is, indeed, connected to a power rail.
  2. Hi people, I reach out to you for help with issues that are driving me up the wall! For a variety of reasons I haven't been much on my PC the past 3 months, but now that I'm back on, I have had issues with my peripherals disconnecting during gaming. Prior to this hiatus, everything was working fine and had been working fine for over a year. I am an avid sim racer and I have a bunch of peripherals connected through an Inline USB 3.0 10 port hub to the back of my Gigabyte GAMING-5 motherboard's USB 3.0 ports. I'm running Windows 10 version 1809 and in racing games in particular, after very short time, all the lights in the hub would go out and Windows would tell me my devices had disconnected - only to reconnect again a split second later. Only the devices connected to the hub. Racing sims typically don't do well with plug-and-play, so once a device like a steering wheel disconnects, it's gone even if it reconnects, until you relaunch the game. You can imagine the implications... Anyway, I tried changing ports on the hub, changing which ports the hub connected to at the back of my computer. Tried USB 2, USB 3.0. Nothing. Finally I decided to reset Windows entirely (while keeping my files). Nothing. I went to my power plan and disabled Windows managing USB devices to save power. Went to device manager and disabled power saving by Windows on each and every device. Nothing. I wrote the store I had bought the USB hub from and they sent me a brand new replacement USB hub - same model. This seemed to help at first, but it turned out that the disconnects just set on a little later. So, not the hub, then. Today I decided to try and connect my rather beefy OSW 20Nm wheel base directly to the computer to see if it made a difference. The wheel is a bit of a monster and it comes with heavily shielded cables, because it tends to emit a ton and a half of EMI - this hasn't been a problem so far due to the excellent shielding. Given the amount of power it consumes (It's a 480W PSU in that thing), I thought perhaps something in the way the game communicates with the wheel could cause some sort of feedback loop or surge going to the hub, causing it to get the hiccups. Well, connecting it to the computer appears to have solved the disconnecting issue - and I say this tentatively, because I haven't been able to verify it due to new issues popping up instead. In any racing sim I have, I can now load the car onto the track without stuff disconnecting, but every couple of seconds there will be a mini freeze in the communication between the wheel and the game, causing the ingame wheel to freeze, while I'm still moving the real one around. As the game wheel then un-freezes, it jars to the place the real wheel is with a jolt. Connecting the wheel to USB 2 instead of 3.0 ports only increases the frequency with which this phenomenon occurs. Outside of gaming, in the Windows test utility that comes with the wheel, there are no signs of this behavior. Let me add that, when I got the new hub yesterday and still had the wheel connected to it, I was able to turn a handful of laps with none of these hiccups whatsoever. It just worked smoothly, as always... right up until the whole hub would disconnect on lap 3 or 4... consistently. I am further confused by the fact that if I turned on my racing game with the old hub, with the wheel connected, but turned off, I still got disconnects! I also had full-hub disconnects with varying frequency in other games, like Guild Wars 2, while the wheel was definitely off. Any help you guys can give would be greatly appreciated! I'm coming to the end of my wits with this =(
  3. I tested both cards individually in the top slot and both perform the same. Switched them around, same performance and usage graphs as in the OP. Switched power cables, no change. Flipped the SLI bridge, no change. I have another SLI bridge lying around somewhere.. need to find it and try it, though I have doubts that will change anything. I will try to locate it, though =)
  4. Hey guys, I just put together a new system: Gigabyte z97x gaming 5, i7 4790k, 2x Gigabyte gtx 970 g1 in sli, windows 8.1 pro x64, latest drivers. It's not looking quite right. While the fps i am getying are definitely above my old 2600k + single gtx 680 setup, they are not quite as high as i expect them to be and the usage figures in afterburner are all wrong (i think). My 3d mark score i up in the 16000 region, which seems right, but while firestrike runs the gpu 1 shows usage between 50 and 60%, while gpu 2 stays rather flat at around 5% usage. On the other hand the power usage, memory usage. Heat and fan speed seem to go well hand in hand on both cards, which i find weird. The obvious: I have installed my cards in the right pci-e x16 slots and they should be sharing x8 bandwidth. I have connected the cards with the sli bridge on the knob closest to the outputs. I have enabled sli for maximum performance in the driver and have left the physx option to auto-choose which processing unit to make use of. In games the situation is much the same, with afterburner showing moderate usage on the first card and virtually none on the second. Games tested so far are Project CARS, Guild Wars 2 and War Thunder. I tried disabling sli in pCars and the difference was a meagre 10-15% in performance. Am i missing something? Edit: Forgot to mention I am running my system off a seasonic platinum 860W.
  5. Hey guys, It's my girlfriend's birthday and I wanted to get her a smart little laptop/tablet thing she could play around with. After having melted through 3 conventional laptops in the last decade, I'm not very keen on the laptop genre as a whole, as they have always sucked at cooling and seemed doomed to self-destruct. The new tablet generation gives me hope however, as it was supposedly designed with passive cooling in mind (I'd think!). So I asked around and a friend of mine recommended a Lenovo Miix 2, 10". I have looked at it and the Miix 3 and both look interesting and within my price range for the 64gb versions. I'm not willing to spend much more than their cost. Basically my girlfriend is a bit of a multitasker with lots of open Chrome tabs flying around. She also does a lot of picture editing in Picasa and PhotoShop CS3 (it works - haven't cared to upgrade) and writes documents with Word/Evernote. She's used to Windows and all our programs are windows desktop, so the Windows platform is a must. I have seen a couple of reviews of these things that have given me pause with regards to the performance of these tablets with the kind of usage I expect from my girlfriend. I have heard talk of bringing these tablets to their knees just with a few Chrome tabs open at a time, let alone multiple (desktop) programs like Photoshop and Word. Is this true? How is the performance on these tablets and would you recommend them for the usage pattern I described above?
  6. No, primary means of connection are dual hdmi. I'm not quite sure what I would need display port for? I'm running a GTX680 with hdmi, display port and dual dvi. Should be fine just hooking up 1 screen on hdmi and the other two on dvi -> hdmi, no? Agreed, but I don't mind 60Hz tbh.
  7. Thx for the heads up
  8. Nice screen and nice price. I like it. I can't seem to find many actual reviews of it however. Saw a dude on youtube talk about it, who claimed that it had quite noticeable blurring going on while gaming, which has me a bit worried. I must admit, I am confused. As I stated in my original post, the ASUS MX279H does everything I want and sits at the perfect price point for me. The only thing it doesn't do is the VESA mount. From what I gather from the posts here, everything that is comparitively priced seems to suffer from ghosting or blurring and everything that should be on the same level and also offer VESA mounting options is 1½ to 2 times as expensive. Why on earth would it cost me twice as much to have a monitor with VESA mounts?
  9. That's not a bad idea at all! From crude calculations my face will be about 50cm from the wheel, which is about 30cm deep. I plan to run the screen(s) as close to the wheel as possible, so about 80-90cm away. I don't see many being sold here in Denmark however, and the one that is actually being sold is quite expensive.. like I could get 6 of the BenQ GW2760HS proposed in the first post for the price of one of these curved LG's What about ghosting and blurring when things move? Since I'm going racing, everything will be moving all the time. They do look quite awesome, but when I need 3, that goes way over my budget, sadly. I'm looking at a price tag that is about 1/2 to 2/3rds of that.
  10. The VA does indeed look quite attractive! Love the price range, thin bezels and this review highlights its responsiveness to input lag quite well (4ms!) https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/benq-gw2760hs/ The only uncertainty I have about it is whether or not there is noticeable trailing and ghosting going on on it. The review claimed yes, there is, but they also admitted that it was a lot better than typical VA panels. The BL2710PT seems to be out of my price range =(
  11. Hey there fellas, I play a lot of Project CARS (one of the lucky ones, who got in before the door slammed on new backers), Assetto Corsa, RaceRoom Racing Experience and War Thunder.. so sims, mostly. I have some fairly high-end sim racing/flying equipment to do this with, but so far have been playing on my 46" Samsung LED tv with a sturdy, yet outdated wheel stand. Long story short, I got the go-ahead for building a proper rig. I am likely to go with an Obutto R3volution for this, which seems to cross most, if not all, of the requirements on my list. Now I need the right monitors to pair with it, so I have come to the best place I know to get some suggestions =). So, given that I am used to a 46" and the rig can take it, I am thinking the logical choice for me would be 3x 27" IPS panels for the most viewing area and the best viewing angles/colour/contrast reproduction. Obviously the monitors need to have a VESA mount and the thinner the bezels, the better. Input lag is a factor, so would love to go as low as possible on that. If it weren't for the VESA mount thing, I would get 3 more of the 27" I bought for my girlfriend - ASUS MX279H, which is a brilliant monitor and does everything I want, except for VESA. I did sit in front of the monitor a fair amount and I think the 1080p resolution will not be an issue for me at the distance I plan to use them at. 1080p will also be easier to drive in games like pCars, which tend to be on the heavy side. To conclude, does a monitor exist, which is pretty much an MX279H but with VESA mount? If not, can you recommend another that fits the bill? Does one such monitor exist? Thanks in advance.
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