BotDamian

Hello there, I need a mainboard tray and I know it's a lot of work to do it but I just wanted to ask if maybe someone knows if it has been done already. I want a ITX Mainboard Tray with a single slot PCIE bracket for the GPU so it doesn't sag down. Something similar like on this Picture except ITX and a single PCIE slot bracket. I also want to fold it like that.

Hi there, since so many years, I have never experienced something like this. So when gaming it happens that the game becomes a slideshow for like 1s it starts stuttering SO BAD then it's normal again. When it starts stuttering in for example CoD it becomes very blury like if the resolution would drop from 4k to like 720p, I also use FSR2 with CoD. But the same thing happens also in other games, it starts stuttering for no reason, i also removed the side panel and put a 200mm fan and the issue is still there. I have also noticed that the SoC temp is at 68c and the CCDs are at 42c and 38c. This PC is just trouble 24/7 7950x3D AMD 7800XT Noctua NH u12a

Because I got the 7950x3d cheaper than a 7800x3d would be

Hello everyone, I have noticed weird stutters on my PC and this shouldn't happen as I'm more a competitive gamer, so I'm always making sure I have at least 110Fps under worst scenario. I play on a 3840x1600 resolution so 144fps flat isn't always possible. So the issue is that Windows 11 allocates the CCD1 (non-x3D) instead of the CCD1, so I manually set the affinity to core 0-15 and suddenly my FPS became stable as the heart beat of a dead person (dark joke sry) and now it runs smoothly, maps load instantly. Is there a way to fix it so Windows 11 always allocates CCD0 (x3D) instead of the non 3d cache CCD1?

Hi everyone, I want to buy myself some neat VR goggles, I just saw the Bigscreen Beyond video after Reddit made me aware of the goggles, the idea of making it light and simple is awesome, minimalistic. I used the HTC Vive Pro from a friend, and the resolution isn't great, the quality isn't great, but I had the most fun in my life since a long time playing Dirt Rally, JUST INSANE!!!! Ok ok calm down *deep breath* so: I was looking at the Pimax Crystal and it had a huge FOV, and is very cinematic (this is what I understand from reading and watching reviews) but I also saw that Pimax support is very bad, replies if you get one, take weeks and for some people even months. Damages and issues with their headsets aren't handled by Pimax, people get broken goggles and wait months for replacements, if they get a replacement. But they say that the FOV makes it worth it, when it works then it's like you're in the game itself. With Bigscreen Beyond, the fact that is so small, light and custom made (foam etc) seems very professional, because things that are custom made, are usually like "racing cars", they don't do a lot, like they can't be adjusted a lot or close to no adjustment, but if you set it up, you have the best experience ever. As a fact, I drove in a R34 GTR and it's fun until you sit in a cupsport car and you realize very quick that 400hp is more than enough for a race car. So the Bigscreen company feels more professional and proud of their work, what makes me kinda lean more towards Bigscreen Beyond. Now if lets say, Pimax Support is bad, and if my headset comes without any issues or damages and will just work for next few years, then Bigscreen Beyond being very lightweight, making it seem like air (170g less than my phone), moving your head and not feeling the pull that i had on the HTC Vive Pro, i was playing a racing game so it didn't matter, but what I played a FPS or something were I move my head all the time... (neck muscle training lol) Idk I need some advice or maybe a new Pimax Crystal video on LTT

Hi there, I have 4 computers and I want to make it a cluster... so I can throw some work at them... for example rendering videos. Is it possible to make all of them render a single video? Not sure how clusters work under the hood. Can someone share their wisdom in this topic? - Big thanks

Proxmox and multiple game servers... the CPU should be good enough tbh.

Can you explain me your thought process on this? I have already a system with a 7950x3d, all you need is to read my signature. This is my second 7950x3d... why would I sell the CPU to get a budget I don't get your thought process here. Ok got it thanks, I've seen that the A620 boards have pretty bad VRM but I thought that a doubled 4+2 with doubles would do the job to run the CPU at like 70% once in a while.

Hi there, what is the cheapest Mainboard and PSU I can run a 7950x3D on? I have a spare 7950x3D to use it in a Gaming Server. My thought was getting this: 87Euros MSI PRO A620M-E (7E28-001R) 82Euros be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 550W ATX 3.0 (BN341)

For example we have Pet Ambulances here, they will arive faster than you can with your car, because they turn on the siren and go slowly over all the red lights. So you might not be aware of that but some countries like mine (you said 911 so I assume you're american), you can get very cheap insurance for your dog. There is no need to get into a car, dive over the speed limit while they can come to your house and anything necessary to sabilize your dog, while you drive like a maniac and over the speed limit, or should I believe that you will stand on a red light for 1-2min while your dog might be (we don't know) dying?

Yeah, imagine being a teen not knowing how to help someone and researching on YT, idk can be about a dog, a person having a sezure etc. Then instead you watch 2x 20s ads that you can't skip and if they end, they sometimes have this where you MUST press continue or after like 5-10s it plays again some ads. YT used to do like 1x 10-15s ads before a video then 1-2 extra ads in a 10min video... now a 3min video has 3 ads...

CPU: 7800x3D 1679PLN GPU: 7800XT 16GB 2619PLN MOBO: MSI B650 Tomahawk 910PLN RAM: 2x16GB DDR5 633PLN PSU: 750W Platinum 679PLN CPU Cooling: Dark Rock 4 330PLN or Noctua NH-U14S 470PLN ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: 6850 -> 6990 You also need a Case and Storage... For case all you need to look for is good airflow, for compatibility look for ATX Mainboard and ATX Power supply. I also like to recommend BeQuiet Cases because they come with good fans Be Quiet Pure Base 600 550PLN Here you have all compatible cases... I wouldn't spend more than 600PLN on a case because only you see it and yeah I personaly don't care. All I look in a case, maybe some USB connectors in the front panel, airflow and dust filters. https://www.x-kom.pl/g-5/c/389-obudowy-do-komputera.html?f3472-standard-plyty-glownej=47726-atx&f3473-standard-zasilacza=47729-atx&f3478-maksymalna-wysokosc-chlodzenia-cpu=od-165&hide_unavailable=1 If I had a air cooled PC I would actually go with this case here CoolerMaster MasterBox Q500L 290PLN but seems to be sold out. You put 2 fans on the top and 2 fans on the bottom, and all of them blow upwards... because better cooling = better performance. But because the fans are more expensive... I would get the 550PLN case above Pure Base 600.

Hello everyone, I'm having issues, it worked all nicely and suddenly only trouble. So my networking stuff looks like this: Modem/Router = FritzBox 7530 (The Internet) AccessPoint Mode = Netgear WAX202 (my room) Router = Some Fritzbox in Router mode in my parents living room So my router has 4 Tasmota Smart Plugs with Power Monitoring connected but also other stuff. Main issue here is that Tasmota stuff is constantly disconnecting, by that I mean, the Router says it's active but when trying to access via IP, it fails, and yes you can connect to Tasmota devices using IP to turn them on and off. Now Home Assistant also becomes unresponsive, same with the other tasmota stuff. Sometimes 2 are unavailable and then all 4 are dead... then 1 comes up... than Home Assistant dies... there is always something. I know this sounds bad but I'm really composing myself, I just assume that I'm the issue not the hardware, the hardware does how I set it up. So it's my fault and I look for help how to setup my stuff so it doesn't disconnect all the time and makes me turn into super saiyajin to vaporize it. I don't have any hard feelings if I need to disconnect everything, reset etc... it's weekend and I have time...

I bought the normal Buds 2

Hello there, I want to get a 7900XTX and I don't know which one. I will for sure underclock it and I don't want any coilwhine etc. I try a lot of things and I will probably undervolt pretty hard. I know it's in German but I think, Specs are like Math, we all get it. https://geizhals.de/?cmp=2877772&cmp=2863475&cmp=2864124&cmp=2863056&cmp=2864028&cmp=2864040&cmp=2863993&cmp=2864137&cmp=2841783&active=1 or here in English ( but the prices are wrong) https://skinflint.co.uk/?cmp=2877772&cmp=2863475&cmp=2864124&cmp=2863056&cmp=2864028&cmp=2864040&cmp=2863993&cmp=2864137&cmp=2841783&active=1 They go from 980euros to 1134euros Or here the whole list: https://geizhals.de/?cat=gra16_512&sort=p&xf=9809_05+14+-+RX+7900+XTX Also I don't know if I want to keep my PC watercooled or go aircooling because I have undervolted everything.

The Buds 2 Pro are 140Euros, and the normal Buds 2 are 86euros, is it worth paying 60euros more? There are also the Buds FE for 100euros.

Hi, I'm looking for wireless headphones for podcasts at work. It doesn't need to be noise canceling but also not "open". I mean I wouldn't spend extra money to just have noise cancelling. I have now the Bose Sports but the battery lasts only max 1h... They are old and the battery is probably dying. So the new ones should last at least 5h or of possible 10h Any recommendatios? No Apple

Hello there, so I have no idea why this happens, this started happening when I deployed my Home Assistant on a RPI4. I have 4 smart plugs with power monitoring connected to the wifi, so it streams data all the time. Here the devices I have connected right now: 4x Smart Plugs with Power Monitoring that stream data 1x Home Assistant PI (receives data from the smart plugs) 1x PC NUC 1x Phone 1x Tablet 1x 3D Printer (aka can be considered as a PC because Manta M8P + CB1/like RPI CM4) I wanted to add more smart things, but I have now 9 and I often can't access websites etc. Home Assistant chokes a lot... My Net stuff is: Modem/Router = Fritz Box 7530 Access Point Mode = Netgear WAX202 (the devices mentioned above) Router Mode = Idk what router, but it has about 8-12 devices (robots, some sensors when windows open, tablet, laptop, 2 phones, TV) I'm connected always to the Netgear router and the FritzBox has it's WIFI off. Should I look for another router? I mean something is too slow... because sometimes my PC doesn't load pages, sometimes my phone has trouble to update the stats on my 3d printer, home assistant or smart plugs disconnect. There is something wrong but what?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JavaScript Now you know what changed... all the parallax stuff etc is basically JS like GSAP.js an animation tool for websites.

"Einfuhrsteuer" https://www.zoll.de/DE/Unternehmen/Warenverkehr/Einfuhr-aus-einem-Nicht-EU-Staat/einfuhr-aus-einem-nicht-eu-staat_node.html

Good that I'm from Germany too, so the issue here it's called "Zollkosten" meaning anything that is above a specific price threshold needs a nice payment to the "Vaterland" making it 19% of the item price. So after you paid shipping and 19% "Zollkosten" then you're pretty close to the same price.

Hello there, I need a mobile LED light that I can charge similar to the Elgato Key Light, where I can adjust the brightness and maybe the temperature (and color rgbw, optional). I'm playing around with my camera and I take pictures of random stuff and it's fun All I know I need: - Chargable with batteries therefore also mobile aka I can put it anywhere without any cords. - Adjustable Brightness - Adjustable white temperature - Would be nice if I could also use RGB so do some colors

Hello there, I'm having some trouble mainly with building a U-Boot for the RK3588. Can someone explain me how to do it?

Sounds very convincing, because then only the needed pixels light up not the whole panel hmmm which one do you have?

Hello there, my eyes burn often when looking at my monitor and I was considering getting a second monitor just for programming or something. I have now the DELL AW3821DW and it's nice but for some reason my eyes burn like hell, I have set it to brightness 70% and contrast to 55% it feels much better this way than 50% brightness and 75% contrast. My issue now is that I wish this monitor could adjust it's brightness automatically like a phone does but it doesn't I'm open for any suggesstions