Anteas99

Just looking for any tips into why Windows 11 won't install in my PC and any possible solution? So my PC is 2.5 years old. specs below: CPU: i9 7980xe @ 4.5Ghz all core Memory: Corsair Dominator 64GB (8x8GB 3600mhz) Motherboard: Asus WS X299 Pro GPU: RTX 2080 TI Primary Boot Drive (Windows 10 Pro): Samsung 970 Pro 1tb 2nd Boot Drive (Ubuntu): Samsung 970 Pro 512Gb Extra Storage: 4x1TB Scandisk Ultra II SSDs Cooling: Water cooled with Corsair Hydro X and 2x360mm Rads Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic Spent a lot of money on the PC as you can tell when I built it, so really don't want to change anything as it was built to last me a while. The issue I am having is Windows PC Health Check says windows 11 won't install because TPM module not detected. Asus states the motherboard is compatible on their windows 11 compatibility site. I've enabled TPM via the bios via the way ASUS says how to do it on their site, (its emulated TPM I believe not hardware). Bios has been updated to latest version. I initially thought it was the CPU being 7th gen, but Microsoft recently said Skylake-x CPUs including mine are now supported. Only solution I think is to buy a TPM 2.0 module and install it in the TPM slot on the motherboard, unless any one else has any better ideas? Or just stick with windows 10 for the time being. Although I have ubuntu installed I am primarily a windows user. Thanks in advance.

Sorry forgot to quote you. A 970 Evo 1TB are £200+ while the sabrents rocket 4 1TB are £160.

My other thinking with the Sabrent is I can use it again in a PCI-E 4.0 board in the future and its only £20-30 more than the Sabrent rocket 3 and the a 970 EVO 1TB is still more expensive then a Sabrent Rocket 4.

Mateyyy you are right the 970 pro is way overpriced. They sell for £140-180 in auctions on eBay and that is brand new SSDs not just used ones. Unfortunately there is none on eBay at present.

Isn't the 970 significantly better than the Rocket 3.0? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hi Guys, need some advice please. I am currently building a new PC and I am having a dilemma with regard to the boot SSD, I have an ASUS WS-X299 Pro Motherboard with a i9 7980xe @ 4.8GHz all 18 cores (cooled by custom loop). Went with x299 over x570 as I got the board and CPU cheaper than a decent x570 board and a 3950x and the i9 7980xe is a cherry picked sample and it is stable at 4.8GHz. I also wanted thunderbolt 3 which I've added with an ASUS add on card and quad channel memory. So being my board is x299 it is only PCI-E 3.0 not 4. The two m.2 nvme SSDs I am deciding between are Sabrent Rocket 4 1TB which is a PCI-E 4.0 ssd or Samsung 970 Pro 1TB ssd which is PCI-E 3.0. My gut feeling is the 970 Pro, as I suspect it has better real world performance (better random reads and writes) and I won't see the advantage of Sabrents sequential reads and writes since I'm using PCI-E 3.0. I can't find however any direct reviews of the two. However what is making me think the Sabrent is that it is only £160 (here in the UK) compared with the 970 Pro which is £300+. Do you think the 970 pro is worth the extra dough in my case? PC not used as a source of income but is casually used for Video editing (Adobe Premier, and After effects), CAD (Fusion 360), and gaming (mostly management like games like Anno 1800, Cities Skyline etc, and occasional FPS like Far Cry 5, Battlefield etc). GPU is yet to be purchased but likely RTX 2080 Ti (since I already have the waterblock), currently using an old GTX 645 I had lying around to test everything else.

Great thanks!

Thanks electronics Wizardy. It would be more for multiple devices/users, so I think i'll so with a something that manages dual WAN connections instead of combining them. The unifi access points seam to be coming up a lot when I'm researching it. I have two questions about them are they PoE and do they support MESH?

Apologies I should have been a bit clearer. You can bond two internet connections to make one faster internet connection, but you are quite right they have to be identical or very close in speeds up and down from the same ISP because like you said the packets are split. I will actually be using the same ISP for VDSL and 4G/5G, but I am not sure if bonding is possible even with the same ISP via two different method? So I think to play it safe I should stick with a load sharing router, which would be fine as either connection on there own are fast enough, it is when two or more people want to use it is when I have issues on my current setup.

Hi Guys, I'm looking for some advise with regards to updating my network. Currently I have VDSL internet connection (roughly 25mbps down, 2mbps up) which goes through to VDSL modem which then relays that (through a wired connection) onto an Apple Time Capsule (5th gen) in the center of the bottom floor of my house. The time capsule connects via PPPoE and then does the DHCP management and then this is repeated wirelessly by 3 further devices. Another time capsule (5th gen) upstairs which all my computers in my study are connected to, an Apple airport expresses (2nd gen) in my living room which all my TV stuff (HTPC, xBox, TV etc etc) connects to and finally another airport express that gives wifi to the garden and my garage. This setup works very well. I don't really have any complaints about it. Devices are reliable, connections are smooth and fast with good range, I can manage it all over the airport app on my phone, and even though the devices aren't true MESH devices they do seem to work like one. I can move from one side of the house to another with no loss of connection on whatever device I'm using and it seems to change between 3 or more devices with no issue. The problem I have is I want to increase my internet speed. The only option I have is to add a 4G/5G modem to give me a extra speed and combine that with my existing VDSL connection. The 4G/5G connection will likely be 60-80mbs Up and 10-20mbps down. The question I have can someone recommend a good load sharing or bonding router to combine these two connections, and will such as device be compatible with my existing setup? By that I mean can I plug it into the apple time capsule in the center of my house and keep that time capsule doing the HDCP stuff without causing any NAT or IP duplication errors etc? If not can someone recommend access points and or additional routers that I can use to replace the apple ones I currently have that will work with a load sharing or bonding router? I am currently renovating my house which involves new electrical wiring so hard wiring these devices would not be an issue as I can simply put CAT 6 cable and RJ45 plugs in the walls when I am changing the electrical plugs (something I have done before). I am happy to if needed (but would rather not if can be avoided) replace everything I currently have with new hardware. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys you’ve confirmed what I thought. As far as I can gather the hydro x waterblock is only compatible with cards that have reference/FE PCBs so I should just get the cheapest compatible card since the cooler is coming off anyways. A FE card would be nice but difficult to get hold of in the UK so I will probably go with ASUS turbo one. No point spending an extra £300 on a fancy one then.

Hi Everyone, first time posting here so please bare with me. I’m currently in the process of building a new PC. This will be my first ever custom water loop. I’ve gone with the Corsair Hydro X system. This is simply because I already have an AX1200i and 9 LL120 fans and hubs etc and want to be able to control everything with the icue software. So I already have the hydro x RTX 2080 ti waterblock. The question I have is does it matter which RTX 2080 TI I buy since I’m putting the waterblock on it? By that I mean as long as it is compatible with the block (which Corsair’s website tells which ones are) will it make a difference if I buy a cheaper one as opposed to an expensive one with a fancy custom cooler. Here in the UK I can get a ASUS turbo RTX 2080 ti with a noisy blower fan for about £800, or a palit one with two fans for a similar amount (both compatible with the block). While a more custom cooling card can be £1100+. Will I get a better overclock with an expensive card (due to things like better vrms I presume) or will they all just be reference boards anyway so I might as well just buy the cheap one since I’m mounting the waterblock?