ka_re_t

Budget (including currency): >$1000 USD / Flexible
Country: United States
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: I want to be able to game at 2K (eventually probably 4K) and do video/photo editing without slow downs.  I use Davinci Resolve, Lightroom, GTA V, Minecraft, COD
Other details: 
I have a M27Q monitor + a side FHD monitor and a 3080 Ti FE with my current build, and I won't be upgrading or replacing those parts.  The GPU will go in my new build.
 
I just want this computer to work super well and last for 3-5 years without needing any upgrades.  Maybe after 3 years I'll buy a new GPU or cooler RAM but that's it. 
 
Again, the goal is to have a higher end system.  I'll take recommendations especially in cases where it would improve reliability but I don't care to spend 20% more on a part that's 5% faster.
 
Parts list /// explained: 
7800X3D because it's good for gaming and I don't need to spend over $200 for a tiny improvement
Peerless Assassin seems to be the only air cooler that will work, maybe I'll switch to an AIO someday but not many are AM5 compatible and cheap yet
MSI MAG because it has WiFi, tons of USB ports, and it's incredibly cheap compared to the other current gen boards 
--> Question: any word on the VRM quality or current reputation of MSI mobos? 
--> Question: seems like this board prefers RAM slots further away from the CPU.  Does this favorably change the RAM clearance I need with my cooler?
G.Skill Flare because it's the only RAM that I like with good specs (6000MHz, CL30) that ~will fit under the CPU cooler without any problems~
Solidigm P44 Pro because to improve 5% on speed would cost at least 10% more
P300A because it's the cooler cousin of my current case (I like my P300!  I've had it since 2018)
RM1000e because it's cheap, quiet and sits at the top of tier lists
Not listed: Corsair LL Series 120mm RGB 3 pack - Not very cheap, but they're the quietest 3 pack of RGB case fans I could find.  I want some lighting and this seems like the only way to get it.  Would be nice to find a cheaper alternative, but they few I've seen have issues (like the Arctic fans)

Actually it's going down.
 

Good list. Sounds like a solid build.

850w will work fine.

Budget (including currency): >$1000 USD / Flexible
Country: United States
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: I want to be able to game at 2K (eventually probably 4K) and do video/photo editing without slow downs.  I use Davinci Resolve, Lightroom, GTA V, Minecraft, COD
Other details: 
I have a M27Q monitor + a side FHD monitor and a 3080 Ti FE with my current build, and I won't be upgrading or replacing those parts.  The GPU will go in my new build.
 
I just want this computer to work super well and last for 3-5 years without needing any upgrades.  Maybe after 3 years I'll buy a new GPU or cooler RAM but that's it. 
 
Again, the goal is to have a higher end system.  I'll take recommendations especially in cases where it would improve reliability but I don't care to spend 20% more on a part that's 5% faster.
 
Parts list /// explained: 
7800X3D because it's good for gaming and I don't need to spend over $200 for a tiny improvement
Peerless Assassin seems to be the only air cooler that will work, maybe I'll switch to an AIO someday but not many are AM5 compatible and cheap yet
MSI MAG because it has WiFi, tons of USB ports, and it's incredibly cheap compared to the other current gen boards 
--> Question: any word on the VRM quality or current reputation of MSI mobos? 
--> Question: seems like this board prefers RAM slots further away from the CPU.  Does this favorably change the RAM clearance I need with my cooler?
G.Skill Flare because it's the only RAM that I like with good specs (6000MHz, CL30) that ~will fit under the CPU cooler without any problems~
Solidigm P44 Pro because to improve 5% on speed would cost at least 10% more
P300A because it's the cooler cousin of my current case (I like my P300!  I've had it since 2018)
RM1000e because it's cheap, quiet and sits at the top of tier lists
Not listed: Corsair LL Series 120mm RGB 3 pack - Not very cheap, but they're the quietest 3 pack of RGB case fans I could find.  I want some lighting and this seems like the only way to get it.  Would be nice to find a cheaper alternative, but they few I've seen have issues (like the Arctic fans)

Thanks for the suggestion.  I ran DDU, I will make another reply if the issue persists.  
Founders Edition 3080 Ti 🙂 

How about DDU? Drivers can get finicky If you install version ontop of version even using "Perform Clean Install" option. It definitely sounds kid of driver related. Your GPU wouldt happen to be a EVGA card would it?

Looks like this is a B-terminated Cat 5e cable and he used the wiring for A.  Annoying considering it says directly on the cable which type it is.  Thank you!

Sounds like they screwed up the ethernet cable and crossed over some pairs and it's pulling 100 Meg now instead of 1gig. Get yourself a new cable and test. 

Attics are 24" center studs.
 
36" sounds like a DIY hatchet job that they hoped nobody would find out about.

Hopefully you have better luck with yours than I did with mine.

Oh and dont forget to put some padding or rubber under the speakers. These shelves are hollow so they can vibrate with the speakers and generate weird sounds

Floating shelves are fine...IF THEY ARE MOUNTED TO THE STUDS.  If not, they will not support any weight.

I don’t use ES really but from what I’ve heard you can get banding with ES under strobing lights which fluorescent and monitors would fall under. Maybe have a go with only your phones torch on (guessing it’s LED) see if the issue is the same  

Mega pixels won't matter unless your doing big prints. Your screen is probalby only 2-8 megapixels, so all of these are way more than your display.
 
ALl mirrorless cameras have worse battery life. Video battery life will be much closer

I'm actually incorrect there, at least according to this article from 2013. However, USB still doesn't come into play. There is more going on with a Lightning connector than just USB, Apple has free reign to send whatever they want over it depending on host device. 
 
https://www.engadget.com/2013-03-04-heres-how-apples-lightning-to-hdmi-digital-av-adapter-probably.html

My money would be on the dirty power/hard draw on the psu.
The only thing I could suggest is, if you are able, see if there is another system you can test the gpu in like a friend's or family's pc...
If there is no change the gpu could have an issue itself.

I just got an Industar 50-2 lens yesterday.  Amazingly shallow DoF when you want it, neat little lens.  Haven't had any good chances to test it in real sunlight yet, but I'd imagine it will do well.  It's worth looking into old Soviet lenses, they're cheap and have some historic value.
 
oh, right, and they started making that lens in 1959, don't know when they stopped so I'll just guess mine is from the 60s.

Woah, that's a lot of talking I missed.
 
The G85 has one big advantage over the G7 IMO, which is image stabilization.  This is incredibly helpful for video, but a top handle for the camera can do almost as good of a job as a gimbal at stabilzation.  And those are $20.  

Canon has far better AF.  But as someone else said, the crop when using 4k is significant, which is where a G7 or G85 wins.  There is a $150 25mm prime lens from Panasonic that works with any micro four thirds camera, and it gives you a 50mm equivalent focal length, which is standard.  
 
As you said earlier, a longer focal length means you have to stand further away to get the same sized subject.  But it also effects how distant objects look, this is called "background compression".  I suggest watching a video on that topic.

I just got an Industar 50-2 lens yesterday.  Amazingly shallow DoF when you want it, neat little lens.  Haven't had any good chances to test it in real sunlight yet, but I'd imagine it will do well.  It's worth looking into old Soviet lenses, they're cheap and have some historic value.
 
oh, right, and they started making that lens in 1959, don't know when they stopped so I'll just guess mine is from the 60s.

Without punctuation your posts are painful to read.

Punctuation, son. Learn and employ it.
I'd just get an iPhone 6. The Canon Elph line is pretty good as well...honestly, though, I'd just see what goes on the best sale during Black Friday and pick that.
Or, if you can find something like a V20/V30, they'd probably be quite cheap and decent as well.

Late, but DaVinci Resolve does it for me.  The only difference between free vs. paid Resolve that I ever noticed is that you're stuck with CPU rendering if you don't pay.  Annoying, but not a deal breaker.  OpenShot is usable if you don't want to be overwhelmed with features.  Definitely don't touch Blender, for any reason.  It has a steep learning curve, and barely works for me.  
 
A used mirrorless or DSLR with an external microphone jack, plus a Rode VideoMicro is budget friendly.  ($300 + $50 mic)
Make sure you have a prime lens if you want the most light for the lowest cost, a "Nifty 50" is the right place to start.  ($75 used, $150 new)
GorillaPod 1k is fine for a tripod, as long as you don't need height. ($30)
Cheap Amazon LED lights are fine, Neewer has lots of good options (also for microphones). ($40 light + $25 mic)
 
You can do this for under $500 if you get the camera and lens used ($300 camera + $75 lens) 
A Sony RX100 mk1 could work for the camera, but the prices listed above will change.  I don't think it supports external microphones, for example, and you don't need a lens for it.

Late, but DaVinci Resolve does it for me.  The only difference between free vs. paid Resolve that I ever noticed is that you're stuck with CPU rendering if you don't pay.  Annoying, but not a deal breaker.  OpenShot is usable if you don't want to be overwhelmed with features.  Definitely don't touch Blender, for any reason.  It has a steep learning curve, and barely works for me.  
 
A used mirrorless or DSLR with an external microphone jack, plus a Rode VideoMicro is budget friendly.  ($300 + $50 mic)
Make sure you have a prime lens if you want the most light for the lowest cost, a "Nifty 50" is the right place to start.  ($75 used, $150 new)
GorillaPod 1k is fine for a tripod, as long as you don't need height. ($30)
Cheap Amazon LED lights are fine, Neewer has lots of good options (also for microphones). ($40 light + $25 mic)
 
You can do this for under $500 if you get the camera and lens used ($300 camera + $75 lens) 
A Sony RX100 mk1 could work for the camera, but the prices listed above will change.  I don't think it supports external microphones, for example, and you don't need a lens for it.

Honestly, maybe consider the SL2 (200D). The SL2 has the same sensor as the t7i, so you'll be able to get similar quality photos, albeit the t7i does have some more features. But the SL2 has all the basics, including a swivelling touch screen, and is a fair amount cheaper (about $500 CAD) with the 18-55mm kit. With your budget, you could easily pick up an 18-250mm with stabilization for $200, and have money leftover, maybe for a 50mm f/1.8.
 
As mentioned, you probably want to go for an SLR, you'll get more options in terms of lenses.