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Hi all. I built my new PC almost 2 months ago. I installed Windows 11 in the normal "No thanks, I don't want any upsells" way that I always do. No Office products, nothing. Except I must have fallen for a misleading button somewhere along the way, because I'm realizing that my User folder is totally screwed up. All the normal Desktop/Documents/Downloads etc links in File Explorer go to C:\Users\myname\OneDrive\[library name] I don't use OneDrive, I don't want to use it, and if it actually backed up all the files on my desktop I would be paying an ungodly amount of money for storage. How do I change this so everything is directly under my C:\Users\myname directory? I keep writing code in the OneDrive desktop folder and then getting confused why it isn't working, only to realize that my terminal is on the normal directory and my workspace opened under OneDrive

Update: I was able to bend the pins back into a working position. I used the "down 90 degree" adapter after fixing the pins and now everything is fine. To fix the pins, someone suggested I use one of those thin coffee straws. That was somewhat helpful, but it wasn't very strong. I also found the TORX T5H screwdriver tip from my Xiaomi Wiha set to be helpful, as well as a flat headed tip. I'm sure that's higher risk for breaking something so definitely be careful if anyone copies me. The straw and flat head got pins into roughly the right spot, and the torx tip made them perfect.

Oh… that’s a good idea. Didn’t know such a thing exists. I accidentally bent the pins when I tried to put it in the first time, so I guess if I can straighten them then an adapter will work. Thank you so much! (Photo was taken before I straightened the pins just enough to avoid a short )

I can provide pics if needed... but basically the holes for cables on the case completely block the front panel USB 3.0 cable from attaching to the motherboard. There's a hole near the front fan mounts that almost works for this, but I would have to seriously bend (and possibly damage) the USB cable to make it fit. The strain relief on the cable is the main source of the obstruction. do not buy this part combination! I've already had so much fun maneuvering around my NH-D15S trying to plug and screw things in

I think I will go with a 7900X and an NHD15S black. It’s a good enough cooler for a comparable CPU with good performance all around, and it means I only spend ~$50 more overall. They push the 7000 series non-X3D to 95C no matter what so I won’t chase the fairy tale of a cool CPU. The cooler choice lets me use Trident Z5 Neo RAM too so that’s a win.

Trust me, I wanted to. But every test I looked at seemed to indicate the Assassin is the most capable air cooler on the market, with the expensive Noctua one being the only "peer" lol. The Assassin is big and ugly but I know it's compatible and can handle the 7800X3D, so here I am

"But I did. I just felt it immaterial" LOL. So you admit you didn't answer. I asked if the specific RAM configuration of that motherboard would allow me to ignore clearance issues, because I want RGB (bigger) RAM. The G.Skill kit was selected since it will fit under the CPU cooler and not because I actually like it aesthetically. That's why I asked the question in the first place I am fully aware of the 42mm clearance the PA provides. Now that you gave me the idea to look up a mounting photo, I can clearly see that the second fan covers 3/4 of the RAM area -- so the fact that the more distant slots are preferred on my motherboard won't be enough to get around the clearance issue. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction! Guess I'm stuck with ugly non-RGB RAM

edited I went through Linus's video with all the benchmarks. It seems like gaming with the 7700X is 10-20% worse than with the 7800X3D, but productivity tasks on the X3D are usually <10% worse than the 7700X. Verdict: 7800X3D is the lesser compromise. Sadly they didn't compare a 7900X, because that would be more price comparable. From what I can tell, most AM4 coolers need a conversion kit to fit. The AK620 has a ton of scary reviews about resonance issues/fan noise, and the NH-U12A performs about as well as the PA but at over double the cost. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those all sound like disqualifying factors. That's good to hear about the VRMs. As far as clearance is concerned, it doesn't seem like you read my question. Thank you for the reply! I would love to hear your follow up.

Eye towards the future, seems like power consumption is going up with each generation of everything. I'm fine with paying $50 extra on the PSU if it gives me more flexibility (and maybe longevity) in the future

Budget (including currency): >$1000 USD / Flexible Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: I want to be able to game at 2K (eventually probably 4K) and do video/photo editing without slow downs. I use Davinci Resolve, Lightroom, GTA V, Minecraft, COD Other details: I have a M27Q monitor + a side FHD monitor and a 3080 Ti FE with my current build, and I won't be upgrading or replacing those parts. The GPU will go in my new build. I just want this computer to work super well and last for 3-5 years without needing any upgrades. Maybe after 3 years I'll buy a new GPU or cooler RAM but that's it. Again, the goal is to have a higher end system. I'll take recommendations especially in cases where it would improve reliability but I don't care to spend 20% more on a part that's 5% faster. Parts list /// explained: 7800X3D because it's good for gaming and I don't need to spend over $200 for a tiny improvement Peerless Assassin seems to be the only air cooler that will work, maybe I'll switch to an AIO someday but not many are AM5 compatible and cheap yet MSI MAG because it has WiFi, tons of USB ports, and it's incredibly cheap compared to the other current gen boards --> Question: any word on the VRM quality or current reputation of MSI mobos? --> Question: seems like this board prefers RAM slots further away from the CPU. Does this favorably change the RAM clearance I need with my cooler? G.Skill Flare because it's the only RAM that I like with good specs (6000MHz, CL30) that ~will fit under the CPU cooler without any problems~ Solidigm P44 Pro because to improve 5% on speed would cost at least 10% more P300A because it's the cooler cousin of my current case (I like my P300! I've had it since 2018) RM1000e because it's cheap, quiet and sits at the top of tier lists Not listed: Corsair LL Series 120mm RGB 3 pack - Not very cheap, but they're the quietest 3 pack of RGB case fans I could find. I want some lighting and this seems like the only way to get it. Would be nice to find a cheaper alternative, but they few I've seen have issues (like the Arctic fans)

I've updated my BIOS now and enabled Above 4G Encoding in BIOS. Resizable BAR is not enabled and the updater says my system does not support it.

Update, games still crash. DDU was not successful

Thanks for the suggestion. I ran DDU, I will make another reply if the issue persists. Founders Edition 3080 Ti

Well when I upgrade my new mb should have TPM2 built in. My current one has some workaround or something for it (x470 gaming 5 wifi) but that wasn't an issue when I switched to 11. And no, no overheating issues. I have a Cryorig single tower cooler that keeps temps very low most of the time, like below 55c idle since that's where my 0% fan curve is set

Firmware is updated. Samsung Magician's "Diagnostic Scan" option isn't enabled for this drive, but I can export S.M.A.R.T. stats if you want. I will try reinstalling DX, I switched to 11 in Fortnite and it didn't help sadly. Already tried repairing .Net, maybe I'll reinstall though.