Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

ka_re_t

Member
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About ka_re_t

  • Title
    Newbie
  1. Oh, now it sounds like a buzzer around 4kHz! This is exciting! It's not even whining anymore, this is way louder I don't notice when I have my headphones on, but damned if it doesn't sound awful. It's almost as loud as the fans.
  2. Too bad my fans are quiet I guess. You’d think manufacturers would buy betters coils & put a bit of glue on them to reduce the issue, but I guess that’s too much to ask. Anyway, on a related note, my headphones now buzz when the power draw goes up! There are gremlins in my PC now
  3. I swapped my MSI 1060 6GB OCV1 out for a new 2060 Ventus today, and it's already doing an outstanding job producing electronic music with 8-16kHz coil whine. The fans also click a bit at low speeds. I'm not really impressed with this apparent lack of quality or thought during the design process. I have heard good things about MSI cards, and my 1060 made no noise (outside of the normal fan stuff). I verified the source is indeed the GPU by listening closely; it's not the power supply. And it's still noticeable when I put the side panel on the case. Do I have to RMA this card, or is another way to fix this? On the bright side, the fans almost drown out the whining at high temperatures. But because they're in different frequency ranges, it's really just more noise instead of "cancellation". Not much of a silver lining.
  4. Hmm. Well, that would be more of a Windows problem if it were related to hibernating. Remember, hibernating is the same as shutting down in the eyes of the hardware, except now your keyboard is a power button. Sleeping is the same as low power usage with no video output, so everything is still powered. I don’t let my pc sleep, I always hibernate/restart/shutdown. Again, sleeping or hibernating are unlikely to cause any problems for you and I highly recommend hibernation if you have an SSD since it’s better than sleeping for energy, and faster than restarting for getting back to work.
  5. There’s an edit button too... fyi Anyway, no problems recently. I’ve had peak performance recently, even though I don’t often push the limits that much: I used 15gb of ram and 80% cpu, plus 500MBps write speed in Lightroom this week. Occasional 4K 100mbps video rendering is ? This is just a sudden and abrupt end to things. I’ll contact the warranty dept. and see if I can’t get a new board.
  6. So I’ve been running the PC since June of 2018. I have: Ryzen 5 2600 Gigabyte x470 Gaming 5 Wifi MSI 1060 6gb OCV1 Corsair CX450 Bronze GeIL EVO POTENZA 2x8GB DDR4 2400 Multiple HDD / SSD I clean it every few months to remove dust, and I have two intake and two exhaust fans, in addition to my Cryorig CPU cooler. The exhaust is usually pretty cool. I haven’t had any problems with hardware whatsoever until now. There I was, watching Prime Video, when I put it into hibernate. I came back, and now I get the red CPU light. This normally stay on for a moment, before the DRAM light, then VGA, then boot, then nothing. Instead, like it behaves like the person describes in the attached Reddit thread. I don’t have a Ryzen computer to swap components into very easily, so how can I test? I see no visible issues with any caps either. The fans run full power while the monitor remains blank, since the CPU never starts. Everything is plugged in, and all lights are on, but maybe it could be an undervoltage problem where the CPU has a brownout trying to get power? Or the motherboard is dead... how fun that would be to replace! At least it has a 3 year warranty, but man, I thought it was supposed to be a good brand and board.
  7. Woah, that's a lot of talking I missed. The G85 has one big advantage over the G7 IMO, which is image stabilization. This is incredibly helpful for video, but a top handle for the camera can do almost as good of a job as a gimbal at stabilzation. And those are $20. Canon has far better AF. But as someone else said, the crop when using 4k is significant, which is where a G7 or G85 wins. There is a $150 25mm prime lens from Panasonic that works with any micro four thirds camera, and it gives you a 50mm equivalent focal length, which is standard. As you said earlier, a longer focal length means you have to stand further away to get the same sized subject. But it also effects how distant objects look, this is called "background compression". I suggest watching a video on that topic.
  8. Extra budget is good, that makes life easier. I would strongly recommend starting with a prime lens, actually. They're cheaper and they are often very fast for the price. As @GDRRiley mentioned, a Yongnuo lens (make sure it has AF!) is very affordable. I still think think the G85 is a good buy, but no one offers it as a Body Only deal. That's a shame, because if they did, I would say that you should take the G85 body and get the Panasonic Lumix G 25mm f/1.7 ASPH. Lens. That combo would be killer, since you would have AF/MF capabilities, double the light of any other kit lens, and the in-body stabilization from the G85. And actually, this combo is possible if you buy a used G85 from Adorama (almost as good as B&H). The used camera comes with a 12-60mm lens for $580, which gives you room to spend $150 on the 25mm lens, and you'd still have $20 to spend on an AmazonBasics Large DSLR Bag (putting you $5 overbudget). The only concern here is the used camera, but you should be fine since Adorama is trustworthy. @GDRRiley has also given you a really good combo. Canon has amazing autofocus, and the price allows you to get a lot more lenses. That being said, I think the G85 body may still be better, when you consider the stabilization. Keep us updated!
  9. Late, but DaVinci Resolve does it for me. The only difference between free vs. paid Resolve that I ever noticed is that you're stuck with CPU rendering if you don't pay. Annoying, but not a deal breaker. OpenShot is usable if you don't want to be overwhelmed with features. Definitely don't touch Blender, for any reason. It has a steep learning curve, and barely works for me. A used mirrorless or DSLR with an external microphone jack, plus a Rode VideoMicro is budget friendly. ($300 + $50 mic) Make sure you have a prime lens if you want the most light for the lowest cost, a "Nifty 50" is the right place to start. ($75 used, $150 new) GorillaPod 1k is fine for a tripod, as long as you don't need height. ($30) Cheap Amazon LED lights are fine, Neewer has lots of good options (also for microphones). ($40 light + $25 mic) You can do this for under $500 if you get the camera and lens used ($300 camera + $75 lens) A Sony RX100 mk1 could work for the camera, but the prices listed above will change. I don't think it supports external microphones, for example, and you don't need a lens for it.
  10. Ok, good work reading OP's post. He was recommended the G7, which has 4k video. It's not a DSLR and it is not a Sony mirrorless. I just got the G7, and it's not bad. Still waiting to test it in broad daylight, but I like it. Two things I noticed: The lack of OIS makes video atrocious, and it can't be fixed in post. And since the sensor isn't stabilized, the lenses aren't either The kit f/3.5 lens doesn't do well in low light With that in mind, buying a G85 body and a 25mm prime lens would be really good for video! But, it's definitely out of your price range, so maybe save up a bit more first. Sorry that I'm so late, hopefully you haven't made any final decisions. Update: There are some DSLR alternatives that also push your budget. The Canon SL3 has digital stabilization, which is better than nothing (the G7 has nothing). It also records at a much higher bit rate. Unless you go for a full frame camera @Tarun10, I would suggest getting a "Body only" deal and sourcing a so-called "Nifty 50" lens, new or used, for the low light performance. If you don't care about low light photo/video, the included kit lens is fine.
  11. I just got an Industar 50-2 lens yesterday. Amazingly shallow DoF when you want it, neat little lens. Haven't had any good chances to test it in real sunlight yet, but I'd imagine it will do well. It's worth looking into old Soviet lenses, they're cheap and have some historic value. oh, right, and they started making that lens in 1959, don't know when they stopped so I'll just guess mine is from the 60s.
  12. 7/10. Excellent detail, bokeh is on point, I see you also lined the bottles in a row to add a middle background. However, the blurred area is the same color as the subject, so nothing really "pops" here besides the bubbles. Also, this feels like a Coca-Cola ad or something. Therefore, a brand would be cool. I'm aware that you probably have intentionally hidden labels, so I'm not really taking points off for that. F5, 1/400, 80 ISO - Shot on the WX500 from Sony, so yeah there's noise. Same sensor size as a phone, roughly.
×