GeoHandle

I think you can set a preference for types if WU, so smaller or bigger WU for example. I just skimmed it but this might help: https://foldingathome.org/support/faq/installation-guides/configuration-guide/

im pretty sure they lowered the default resolution since so many people self isolating meant more people using it aka more bandwidth, but as far as im aware if you set the resolution yourself then it should be the same as ever.

The display ports on the motherboard are for when you use an apu (like the 3200G etc) that has on board graphics. I’m pretty sure (not 100%) that you can’t actually use the motherboard display port when using a graphics card. Though this wouldn’t be a problem since the graphic card will have its own display ports. I don’t have any specific recommendation for a cheap graphics card, but it’s wouldn’t be hard to find a cheap one if all your doing is basic tasks.

I’ve had problems with my computer involving RAM that I’d tried various ways to identify and fix, I thought I had at one point and then found out I hadn’t, so eventually I gave up and just decided to use the two ram sticks in single channel. I won’t go into detail on the problem in this post since I’ve already made multiple posts for my problems with the RAM, but basically I can only use the first two slots in my motherboard for RAM (either stick in either slot, or both in the first two slots) with my cpu (3700x), dual channel worked, though not to the rams rated speed, when using a lower end CPU (3200G), but not on the original 3700x I had nor on the new one I’ve replaced it with. I just noticed in MSI Dragon Center that though the ram sticks show up as the same set, the xmp shows as different speeds. Could this be the cause of the problem, and if so does that means the RAM set should be sent back, or is this just from me using different xmp speeds when using the sticks separately?

The number after DDR4 is the speed, higher = faster which is better, but your motherboard and CPU will both have maximum speeds they allow without it being considered overclocking. If you have different RAM in the same system with different speeds they will all run at the slowest speed. It is certainly better two use either two or four sticks of RAM, so either two 8GB sticks or four 4GB sticks, there are reasons for that but other than just saying its because of dual channel I can't actually remember why.

I've built my own computer and at this point im thoroughly regretting it. I've originally had a problem with my computer not posting if I had a stick of RAM in the third or fourth RAM slot (it would work both in the first two, though it always warned that it wasn't the optimal configuration, and it would also work with either of the sticks alone in either of the first two slots). I thought this was either a problem with the RAM (since it wasn't officially tested on this motherboard), the CPU (specifically the memory controller), or the motherboard itself. I had another single stick of RAM from a different kit that I had the same problems with so I decided to buy a cheaper CPU that was compatible to test with. I tested if the system would work using the different CPU (3200G) and it worked fine (I just couldn't use the full 3733Mhz speed). So I sent the other CPU back and after they (overclockers uk) received and tested it I received a refund. I've now bought another 3700x and I've got the same problem again, along with another problem. I had at one point been unable to set my M.2 SSD as my boot drive (though I could boot from it manually), but this problem went away seemingly on its own. Now it has returned. I would have thought since the RAM problem persisted that it was due to the RAM itself. However, I've had the same problem using a single stick from a different set of RAM as well, and I've now got my m.2 problem with the motherboard. This makes me think it could be the motherboard causing the problem. On the other hand I returned the original 3700x I had and have received a refund, so they obviously agreed that it was the cpu causing the problem I reported. Is it likely I received another 3700x that just happens to have the same defect as the previous one (this one was bought from somewhere else, specifically scan computers)? If not (which I think is likely), what do you think is causing these problems? The CPU im using: 3700x The CPU I tested with: 3200G The Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus The RAM: Patriot Viper Steel Series 3733Mhz The SSD: Sabrent Rocket 500GB PSU: Corsair RM850X GPU: 5700xt Sapphire Nitro+ (I just got this after all the problem, so it can't be this).

You'll have to set the RAM speed in the bios to get it to run at an overclocked speed. Since the 3400G only officially supports RAM speeds up to 2933Mhz you can't guarantee that it'll do any better at all, but I believe overclocking to 3000 and probably 3200Mhz is reasonable enough (though obviously thats just my opinion, it could just not go any faster at all). Right now im using a 3200G until my 3700x arrives (the 3200G is also rated for 2933Mhz) ive had it overclocked to 3433Mhz with timing better than its rated and the same as its rated (the RAM's rated speed it 3733Mhz), but ive failed to boot sometimes at these speeds too. Ive not found the "sweet spot" for where I can stably overclock it too yet, but this does show that even the 3200G can be overclocked reasonably well. You should also check the RAM speeds that your motherboard supports as well. As for the storage, I would recommend going up to 500GB's. Presuming this PC will be used for at least a few years, 240GB's will fill up quite quickly, and the more storage you have now the longer you can wait before you upgrade it.

At what resolution and refresh rate?

Not sure about Roblox or Fortnite but i've briefly played Minecraft with a 3200G and got around 80fps going up to the 90s sometimes, and dropping down to 55-65 when loading lots of new chunks, and I know mods like opti-fine etc can improve fps (though opti-fine isn't updated to the newest version of minecraft right now). This was at 1440p. Since your planning for a 3400G at 1080p it'll probably be even better. As the computer is for a young child more storage/faster storage might be good just because children can be impatient and aren't likely to remember to delete stuff they've downloaded when they no longer use it, though you've already chosen an SSD so that should be fast enough anyway, and you can always delete stuff yourself if it looks like the storage is gonna fill up (though i'd still say 240GB is a bit small). Even for hardcore gamers 32GB's of RAM is generally overkill, for games like you mentioned 16GB is plenty (I know minecraft doesn't benefit much from more than 4GB's of RAM dedicated to it, maybe 6GB's if you want to be totally sure your getting the best performance you can, which still leaves 10GB's free). The RAM you picked looks good though. Powersupply looks fine. Don't know much about the motherboard, if you go for an ATX motherboard i'd suggest the tomahawk (max if its the same price to avoid having to update the bios), though I presume you chose the micro ATX for the form factor. Once you've chosen all the parts you want, use pcpartpicker to check compatibility and maybe the motherboards website to check compatibility there as well. The 3400G supports RAM speeds up to 2933Mhz out of the box, so running at 3200Mz would be overclocking, which I would say is worth it in this case.

Has anyone done hardline custom water cooling for the NZXT H510 (or the H500, pretty sure the only difference is the front panel)? The H510 is the case ive got and I want to do a hardline custom loop (using copper pipe), but im not sure if its feasible with the size of the case and my current components. In particular my graphics card (5700xt Sapphire Nitro+) is quite large compared to the case, and im not sure of the clearance. If anyone has any pictures or links to videos of people who have done this i'd appreciate it, seeing how others have done this (if many people have) would be pretty helpful to my own efforts to plan a loop.

I figured it out. The answer is im an idiot. I had to send my 3700x back so im using a 3200G, which uses pcie 3.0 x8. Thanks for your help though.

My Radeon software says my 5700xt is currently using pcie 3.0 x8. Ive got an x570 motherboard so its capable of pcie 4.0, though I know there wouldn't be any difference between 3.0 and 4.0 for the 5700xt, would the x8 instead of x16 have an effect on performance? Also, even if it doesn't actually have an affect on performance, why is it not using the best available settings anyway?

If your thinking about buying both a 2400G and a dedicated graphics card its probably not worth getting an APU and a separate graphics card at the same time. The only reason I can think of to have both in the same system would be if you already had the APU and later upgraded the system with the GPU. If you already have the 2400G and the discreet graphics then I don't know if its possible to do exactly what you described, but AMD did have 'Radeon Dual Graphics', though I don't know if it will work with the 2400G. The AMD Dual Graphics Page: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/radeon-dual-graphics-faq

I'm buying a network card ,but I don't really know the trusted/quality brands. Is this a good network card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Y82HZV1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A158I6UZAZKHGU&psc=1 I've asked for a recommendation here earlier and was told this was good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/T6E-Archer-Wireless-Interface-Low-Profile/dp/B013HCNTZU/ref=sr_1_17?crid=WL3MCU0JSSAZ&keywords=tp%2Blink%2Bac1900&qid=1579651858&s=computers&sprefix=tp%2Blink%2Bac%2Ccomputers%2C247&sr=1-17&th=1&tag=linustechtips-21 The second one is more expensive and doesn't have bluetooth, but I have at least heard of TP-Link. Is the first network card a good purchase? My internet speed tops out at around 220Mbps, but I want the card to be future proof, so I want to get something capable of more. My router (netgear xr500 nighthawk) has mu-mimo, so should I be looking for a network card that also has that capability (the first network card does)?

I have pulled the trigger, £405.47 including delivery. My wallet feels lighter already.

I've searched around, done some research, looked at reviews etc and have now pretty much decided im getting a 5700xt. However, which 5700xt should I get? My computer will be using a 3700x (im currently using a 3200G, the 3700x I originally got was faulty), 16GB (2 x 8GB) 3733Mhz RAM (Patriot Viper Steel Series, currently running at 3466Mhz), on a MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus motherboard, with a corsair RM850x power supply. My monitor is 1440p 144Hz. I might sell it on later when the new graphics cards come out this year and ive got more money to spend, so if one particular card is likely to hold its value for longer that might be better, but I don't want to skimp out now and not have the performance I otherwise could in the mean time. I've pretty much narrowed the choices down to the Red Devil, the Sapphire Nitro+ or the Thicc III. The Red Devil and Nitro+ are both £399, and the Thicc III is £375. Out of the three I like the look of the Thicc III the best, and its cheaper too, but it also came out later and so has a lot less reviews. The case i'm using the the NZXT H510, its airflow isn't bad but it isn't absolutely amazing either, so how good the temps for each card is might matter more than they otherwise would. Which of these cards is the best choice at these price points? Is there another card that's just as good or that is likely to hold its value better around the same price or cheaper?

A desktop is certainly going to be more powerful than a laptop at the same price, however a laptop also comes with all the peripherals you need included, so you'd have to factor in the costs for those with the desktop as well. Even then though a desktop is probably better value. If the most important thing for the computer is portability then a laptop is definitely the best choice, but from a price for performance standpoint a desktop is definitely better. Personally i'd want to get the most performance possible out of my money, so i'd definitely go for a desktop, and if he needs portability than a compact desktop will also be portable, if not as easily portable as a laptop.

I need to get a network card (my motherboard doesn't have wifi) but I don't really have any idea what brands are best etc, so I decided to ask for some advise on here. My current Internet speed is generally around 100-110Mbps, and can get up to around 220Mbps at its absolute fastest. I want the network card I buy to be somewhat future proof as well, so I'd like to get something able to handle speeds faster than that, probably around 1Gbps at least so I can comfortably forget about it and not have to worry about upgrading it again in the next few years. The router i'm currently using is the Netgear XR500 Nighthawk Pro Gaming. I'm currently using my computer around 10m from the router in direct line of site, but this is temporary. Once I've got a proper set up going i'll either be about 5m away from the router but with a wall and cabinet between the router and the PC, or almost directly above it one story up (so about 6m with a floor in between). With how powerful the router is neither of these should be a problem but i'd want the network card to be powerful anyway just for future proofing. I know a wired connection is definitely better, but I can't do that at the moment. I do have power-line adaptors that i'm currently using, but they are old-ish, inconsistent and incredibly slow (they're rated for 200Mbps, and I have used them before I changed to fibre and got around 40Mbps before, so the problem is probably from the powerlines in this area of the house itself? If someone more knowledgeable disagrees with me let me know, that's just a guess). I've run speed test multiple times in the past hour (Once while actually using the internet and the others just while idle), and ive gotten 0.4Mbps, 0.6Mbps, 1.08Mbps and 8Mbps (I am getting consistently 16-ish Mbps upload though, i don't know why?). Using speed test wirelessly on my phone I got 109Mbps and 60Mbps. The Network Card im looking at right now is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EX7KNUM/?coliid=I1N35483EOYCNL&colid=2HA1HIYI0ZIVU&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 Its certainly at the high end of what i'd want to spend (£73.99, id rather not spend more than £50 if I don't have to, but i'm will to go to about £75 if its worth it long term or has some kind of feature that really makes it worth it), so if its not a good deal or there is something better let me know!

If you really want to upgrade right now i'd recommend getting a higher end motherboard so its still pretty good when the new stuff comes out, and with the new board you'd need new RAM and CPU. I'd recommend AMD for that. All of that would probably cost a fair bit so after that you'd probably want to wait and save up for the new graphics cards. Though with what you've got right now your probably better off waiting and saving up for when the new stuff comes out and replacing most/all of the system then.

im British so I don't know how good/bad that deal is, but moving the OS from an old drive to the new SSD is actually pretty simple, I just did it myself yesterday. You clone the old drive to the SSD, I used this site to help me: https://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/

If your using a ryzen processor then it might be worth getting 16GB and using some of the money you save to get a faster kit, I believe the "sweet spot" is 3733mhz for ryzen processors. Though if your using intel its probably not worth the money it would cost you.

Are you going to use the extra 30 for something else otherwise? If you've got no current need for 32GB you could spend the extra 30 somewhere else. However, if you can't really upgrade anything with that extra 30 then its just a choice between saving some money now or adding some future proofing. That said, 200 seems like a lot for only 16GB's.

Got it working fine, just entered the activation key for windows 8 from when I first got the old system. When I cloned it over it stayed activated.

As far as I know the saphire is a good card but its also pretty expensive compared to other models. The Red Devil is cheaper and also a great choice, so choosing that might save you some money. Though the price might be different in your region. Going for a B450 board means your missing out on PCIE gen 4, though its obviously cheaper, and the Tomahawk is definitely what I would recommend as a choice for B450 board. So that choice really depends on budget. if your got an old AM4 CPU that is compatible with the tomahawk, you could get the tomahawk instead of the tomahawk max (if the tomahawk is cheaper) and use that to update the bios. I believe AMD also has a service where they lend a cpu to update bios with for free, so you could look into that. Knowing the speed of your RAM would also be helpful, Ryzen likes faster RAM so the faster the better. The 3600/3600x is definitely the best CPU in terms of price for performance so that is a great choice. Might want to get a older SATA SSD, such as a Samsung QVO, they'll be cheaper as they're older, but still faster than a HDD and the extra space will be useful with the size of modern games. Also i'm pretty sure the 5600 xt comes out tomorrow, so that might (only might) have an affect on pricing of other cards, so look out for that.