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About h4lf_gr33k
- Birthday June 14
Contact Methods
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Steam
https://steamcommunity.com/id/nibelung165/
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Russia
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Interests
Bayan
System
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CPU
Ryzen 5 1600
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Intel Atom D425 -
Motherboard
Gigabyte B450M-S2H
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Foxconn N15235 -
RAM
16GB 2400MHz
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1GB 800MHz -
GPU
Inno3D GTX 1060 6G GDDR5X
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Intel GMA 3150 -
Case
ZET Gaming Rare L2 BG
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Chieftec FI-02BC -
Storage
240 GB WD Green NVMe (Win10 Boot)
500 GB Toshiba HDD
1TB Seagate HDD
240 GB WD Blue 2.5" HDD
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240 GB WD Green SATA SSD (Win7 Boot)
240 GB WD Blue Scorpio 2.5" SSD (XP Boot) -
PSU
Xilence Red Wings XN054 700W
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LITEON PS-5181-3HB1 (Rev. 02) 180W PSU -
Display(s)
Samsung UE32H4270AU 32" LED TV (1366x768, 32", 100Hz???)
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OL-1502 Touchscreen Display -
Cooling
Deepcool GAMMAXX 300 (CPU)
Deepcool RF-120B x2(Case)
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DEXP DX50N 50x50 mm Fan (CPU) -
Keyboard
Microsoft Wired 600
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Logitech K120 For Business -
Mouse
Defender Shock GM-110L
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Genius GM-04003P (aka Netscroll 120 White) PS/2 Mouse -
Sound
Behringer UM2 DAC + Sennheiser HD205 II Headphones + Behringer XM8500 Mic
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Unidentified headphones without pads that I found under my bed -
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
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Astra Linux Common Edition (Orel) -
Phone
Samsung Galaxy A60 (Exynos Garbage Edition)
Recent Profile Visitors
474 profile views
h4lf_gr33k's Achievements
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I guess I should have mentioned the controller beforehand — it's a Maxio MAS1102B-B1C. I wouldn't know how new it is or whether it has these features you mentioned. There is also only one NAND chip on the PCB.
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I have three (3) SSDs on hand. All of them 2,5" SATA. 1 is a 240 GB WD Green with SanDisk TLC NAND and 40 TBW of endurance. 2 is a 220 GB GS Nanotech (a Russian manufacturer) with Micron MLC NAND and 380 TBW of endurance. 3 is a 256 GB mSTORE (another Russian manufacturer) with Micron TLC NAND and 500 TBW of endurance. I was wondering — how is it possible for such a huge disparity in endurance to exist, and how come a TLC SSD has 1.3 times the TBW of a MLC drive? Could the endurance rating be fake/inflated? Linux Hardware probe with all of them (GS Nanotech's model number is GSTOR256R08STF — not present in the hw probe)
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I didn't reboot but it goes away whenever I log out and log back in It never shows up in the BIOS I have not reinstalled my drivers but I will do so now that you mentioned it
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Unfortunately this is as far as I can go to express my opinion on the matter without getting cancelled off here, cuz this is the best tech forum I've seen so far
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Try this
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I got shadowbanned by the CSE
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I didn't think I'd be subject to discrimination on a Canadian website but oh well
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Also good day to all
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All my previous posts except the last two have gotten an answer in like <30 minutes from posting, but the last two are without answer. Have I gotten shadowbanned?
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I've been having this issue recently - a black bar randomly appearing on the top of the screen, overlapping all other windows but not the cursor (I can still select stuff & move windows around etc under this bar). This time it appeared after Quake Champions crashed on loading. It happened (if my memory serves me correct) when my Skyrim instance crashed as well. How do I fix it? Here's my active startup programs: Nothing out of the ordinary in services (trust me, I can tell) Here's how it looks IRL: (Also Win+Tab doesn't seem to be affected) How do I fix it when it appears? It doesn't bother me enough to look for a permanent fix (although it would be much appreciated) - I'd rather reinstall Windows if I'm at it because this pal of mine is starting to struggle
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I have a Radeon X1600 Pro from like 1936 (2007), and I've been trying to build it into my scrap PC for playing olde games & testing Linux etc. It's the only working graphics card in my house, bar the GTX 1060 in my main build, and it seems to have something dead on it. I don't know for sure, but a specific IC is overheating like a bastard, so much so that I almost burnt my finger. Is it shorted (dead) then? And can I replace it?
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Terrific! Thanks, mate.
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I have this old 12v 3A wall adapter. It seems to be fed up with life - my monitor (which I use with this brick) ripples and flickers a lot. I opened the monitor in question up and did not find anything wrong (like swollen capacitors), therefore the power brick seems to be the culprit. I am looking to buy a new one to use with an old sensor monitor. I've seen 12v 5A adapters, and I wanted to ask if the amperage value is something to be worried about here, and my monitor is not going to catch fire if used with a higher amperage rated power brick. If this seems like a stupidly easy question to answer, I'm sorry - I am tired and not thinking straight.