smokedporkroast
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Posts posted by smokedporkroast
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On 5/15/2020 at 7:41 PM, DontJoshme said:
Budget (including currency): $750ish
Country: US
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: racing/ driving simulator games; chrome (tend to have multiple tabs open like 3+) Zoom; JWLIBRARY. Likely to run 2or 3 of those at the same time.
Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/
Want to build asap
Want to game at 1080p 60fps
Already purchased the 3600
Friend is giving me a case
Forgot to quote you in my reply. Sorry.
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Mostly overpriced.
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This is worst case scenario though, but the power supply is single handedly the one thing that runs the computer.
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It is crucial to building the pc to mount the psu securely, they can literally blow up if something goes wrong
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A good go-to motherboard is the b450 tomahawk max, Ive used it before and its great. Some people will disagree, but for a $750 budget a B450 board for $100 is a good option for ryzen 3000. Otherwise wait for B550 and see if a similarly priced board appears.
GPU- RX 5600xt or Gtx 1660ti, whichever is cheaper at the time. Both a have their benefits though the rx 5600xt is generally faster.
Ram- any dual channel ddr4 3000mhz and faster is fine (16gb for $65-$70), make sure the timings are as low as you can go (cl16 as a reference is mid range, cl19 is slow, and cl14 is decently fast)
For storage- a 240gb ssd for $40 and a 1TB hdd for $50 is my go to recommendation for my customers.
Power Supply- hopefully you can find one for less than $200 if you can find one at all, do not buy from cheap brands like "Apevia". Make sure that the PSU is rated for 80+White or higher.
Monitor- There are so many 27" 1080p $100 monitors out there, take your pick.
If you dont count the cpu, then that comes to $750 including a $60- $70 budget for the psu (if you can find one). If you need to cut expenses, then cut the ssd to 128 gb and the ram to 8Gb.
(I don't think I forgot anything, I literally do this all the time for people and sometimes have a brain fart on the simplest component to add.)
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Definitely not a rip off, great setup, I think you're exactly right about a new case and gpu, though the gpu is plenty capable depending on the workload. For a case, I recommend the "be quiet! Dark Base 700" this case looks great and has an upgrade path up to professional style setups ie. threadrippers and high end xeon builds. For something a little bit lower spec, Ive sold a few "Phanteks P300 or P400s", they cost a fair bit less and are amazing cases to work with, I remember building my first pc where the case wasn't super low end and the switch to the mid range Phanteks P300 was like night and day. It really depends on your budget, but those are two great options for two budgets, (High and Mid).
On the GPU side of things, do you have a specific workload, do you need cuda cores from nvidia to render graphics in an optimized workload, or is gaming a priority. There are so many reasons to upgrade, and many more not too.
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4 hours ago, FriedEngineer said:
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CPU Options:
- Budget: Ryzen 3100 - 4 Cores/8 Threads. not quite for sale yet but will be soon for around $100
- Mid Range: Ryzen 3300X - 4 Cores/8 Threads. not quite for sale yet but will be soon for around $120
- More $: Ryzen 3600 - 6 Cores/12 Threads currently $172.39+tax on amazon
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GPU Options
- Budget: Nvidia GTX 1660 Super or Ti or AMD Radeon 5500 XT
- Mid Range: Nvidia RTX 2060 or AMD Radeon 5600 XT
- Better: Nvidia RTX 2060 Super or AMD Radeon 5700 XT
If you stick with the budget options you'll be around $400 and already have the beginnings of a higher refresh rate 1080p monitor. If you want to go for the higher end options you'd just have to wait a bit longer for a better monitor. Also, if you get a used GPU you can probably get a tier better for the same price.
Great approach.
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CPU Options:
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In my case, I use a ryzen 7 2700 with a gtx 1070 that I got refurbished from ebay for $200 about a year ago. My monitor is a 32" LG 1440p at 144hz (VA) with a 4s response time and it runs great. I mostly play CSGO, shadow of war, and fallout 4.
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If the monitor looks good to you then stick with it. Its good to set a limit on your fps so the game runs smoother and 60 hz/fps looks good in almost every situation. That being said, the upgrade to 75hz or even 100+ hz is mind boggling. Though, it requires a better system to run at those frame rates. In general, for your system I recommend sticking with 60 or 75 hz monitors and maxing out the graphics detail on basically every game. If you do get an rtx 2070 or better along with a better cpu (r5 3600) then you could easily play any game at 144hz with variable refresh rate on (gsync, freesync) at 1080p or even 1440p.
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3 hours ago, TheDailyProcrastinator said:
Yeah true, I worded that wrong. In theory it can introduce incompatibilities, a lot less likely if ordering the same identical stick at the same time but it's the same prices or cheaper to get a 2x kit. So better off just getting a dual channel kit right from the beginning.
Right, especially since the dram chips can come from different manufacturers ie (hynix vs samsung) which might mean different overclocking capabilities or less stability on certain systems even at stock speeds.
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Maybe save up $30 more and go with a 1650, it has a tdp of 75w which is the max rated power consumption from a pcie x16 lane.
There is a considerable gain in performance from this upgrade.
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1 minute ago, smokedporkroast said:
Two single channel sticks are exactly the same as a dual channel kit of the same dram modules.
This being said, go with a dual channel kit if its cheaper, but get the individual sticks if they are cheaper, though normally the kit is the cheaper of the two.
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16 hours ago, TheDailyProcrastinator said:
Much better budget utilization here.
B450 is EOL (end of life) so go X570, unfortunately no B550 yet.
R5 3600 is a cool running chip an AIO is not needed at all. Stock cooler is fine, if not a small air cooler will be great.
Two single channel sticks of RAM is not the same as dual channel, not recommended at all when a 2x16GB 3200MHz CL16 kit costs the same.
2070S is a good card but poor value, and you will have some real buyers remorse when Nvida launches their newest GPU's in a few months, either wait or get the RX 5700XT. The 5700XT is nearly equal with regards to gaming performance, costs less than a 2060s.
Cases come down to personal preferences, but that HAF series is like 5 years old and unless you need external 3.5" and 5.25" enclosures it makes no sense in 2020.
Better PSU.
Two single channel sticks are exactly the same as a dual channel kit of the same dram modules.
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The PSU, Motherboard, SSD and HDD all are fine, no need to upgrade there. But if you wait for the Ryzen 3 3100 or 3300x to come out, you will gain a bunch of performance there, just make sure that your motherboard bios is up to date.
Next is the graphics card, a gtx 1060 is great for 1080p games, not even sure that you are using it to its full potential yet, though if you wanted to you could upgrade to a gtx 1660 ti for somewhere around gtx 1070 performance.
All in all the only thing that would really bump you fps up in 1080p games is the cpu in this case. Just dont go above 1080p and your pc will handle most games very well.
All this being said, get the best cpu/gpu that you can afford and make sure that its actually a decent 15-20% upgrade before you buy it.
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11 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:
No, in fact keeping them all on the same channel technically impairs the purpose of mesh as if you had clients on multiple ones at the same time they will interfere with each other.
While yes technically if you aren't using them all at the same time then it may not matter what channel or width you are using, having it set up correctly helps in diagnosing the problem as we can eliminate that as any potential problem.That makes sense, I hadn't thought of that.
Thanks
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I checked again and the 157 channel is still there,not sure whats sending it out though. Anyway, to clarify, I setup the nighthawk to be used for LAN parties in a separate area so we don't mess up the other router when messing around with settings. It is on separate channels that aren't anywhere near the orbis channels. Attached is a new WiFi survey. My main network is on channel 48 and 11. the second network is on 6 and 149, I don't think they interfere so turning off the second network would do nothing. There is a third network that is on channel 157 that I have no clue of its location. I just want my computer to transfer ftp files over wifi at closer to 500mbps instead of 100-160mbps.
Thanks.
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Thanks for responding
Basically what I meant was that I'm not concerned with getting gigabit speeds at the moment over Ethernet. I just want to figure out the WiFi problem.
Question: Wouldn't changing the channel on each orbi destroy the purpose of mesh? Wouldn't it make the switch between orbis slower? If not then I'm totally up for changing individual channels, I just don't think its possible given the web interface that is provided (I haven't seen any option for individual orbis).
Another question: Why would channel width be important in this case? There are about 15 devices on the network at all times, but they are rarely in use at the same time simultaneously. So if the channel has good signal, I'm assuming that the bandwidth is good enough as well.
Thanks
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Apparantly yes, It turned out that the 157 was lingering residue from when the other nighthawk was on that channel and I switched to 149. So the new graph shows only 48 and 149.
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2 minutes ago, smokedporkroast said:
I have the 48 and 149, the 48 is all mine even though it says that there are multiple. Mostly using the 48 mostly but sometimes the 149 for other reasons, like lan parties...
Basically when I change the orbis broadcast channel (48), it has 1 router and 2 satellites which all push the same network (mesh)
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I have the 48 and 149, the 48 is all mine even though it says that there are multiple. Mostly using the 48 mostly but sometimes the 149 for other reasons, like lan parties...
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2 minutes ago, smokedporkroast said:
Whoops, never used this program before. The only reason I know that devices are on the 5ghz band is because of the web interface saying so.
Im using wpa2 to encrypt the connection.
Just changed some setting to what they recommend.
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Whoops, never used this program before. The only reason I know that devices are on the 5ghz band is because of the web interface saying so.
Im using wpa2 to encrypt the connection.
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Really Im not concerned about the isp speeds, they are at max capacity (80/15) but if I unplugged the modem and just used lan to transfer files, the speeds are horrible.
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