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theTobster500

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  • Posts

    13
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    University Student

System

  • CPU
    i7-7700HQ
  • Motherboard
    -
  • RAM
    16GB 2600MHz
  • GPU
    GTX 1060 6GB
  • Case
    -
  • Storage
    Boot: 512GB ADATA SC8200 Pro
    Data: 1TB Samsung 860 evo
  • PSU
    180W Laptop PSU
  • Display(s)
    AOC G2590PX
    Laptop Display
    Acer P225HQ
  • Cooling
    -
  • Keyboard
    Logitech g pro
  • Mouse
    Hiraliy f300
  • Sound
    Asus xonar U5
  • Operating System
    Dual Boot:
    POP! OS (64 bit)
    Windows 10 Education (64 bit)
  • Laptop
    ROG GL-702VMK
  • Phone
    iPhone 7

theTobster500's Achievements

  1. pretty much every time my pc is sleeping it'll wake up automatically. i already did a scan with windows defender. twice i've used "powercfg -lastwake", once the result was a pci-to-pci bridge, not sure what to do about that but the second time i got an intel usb 3.0 controller. i went into device manager and got the right one based on the path and hardware id and under power management, it's already set to not being able to wake the pc. i attached some screenshots of what i did and checked. i do have a dual boot to pop os and this never happens if i suspend in linux, so it has to be something with windows. it's really annoying, since pretty much every time i wake up in the morning my monitor will be on and it'll just be sitting on the lock screen with the fans running, so any help would be very much appreciated. if this is the wrong sub forum for this post then i apologize, please let me know which one i should post this in instead
  2. hey, sorry to revive an old thread but i was wondering if you had any luck finding a better psu. my rog laptop has been crashing during games and i’m thinking it’s the psu and was wondering the same thing as you about getting a higher wattage psu
  3. So my roommates and I have an ancient PC that we put linux (pop os) on as a media pc for the living room. just for movies, it’s got an old amd apu (two cores i believe) and a non-commercial motherboard (specifically made for medion, the computer brand of aldi) so it’s not the best quality. we have it hooked up via aux to a yamaha amp and that runs our 5.1 system. my question is if we’d get a noticeably better result if we connected the amp to an external soundcard over toslink or if the amp does most of the work that a soundcard wouldn’t do much anymore. also, what’s linux support like for external soundcards? would it be easy enough to find one that works?
  4. i tried hooking up the extenders to my laptop (specs are in my signature) and the two monitors still had the same issue. so i hooked the hdmi monitor to the extender and there everything works. also hooked it up to the pc that with the ither two directly hooked up and it ran the three screens just fine. i’m assuming it has something to do with the other monitors being dvi and using a converting cable, though i cannot think of a reason for that. i ordered two new hdmi monitors (acer K222HQL) so hopefully that’ll fix the issue.
  5. i already tried just using one monitor+tv combo as the only monitor and it’s the same thing. asus says the card can drive 4 4k@30 displays at the same time (or one 4k@60) and all three monitors work when not plugged into the extender. the tvs shouldn’t count as additional displays, should they?
  6. I have three monitors, an acer KA220HQ (HDMI) and two acer P225HQ’s (DVI to HDMI). The two 225’s are hooked up to two esynic HDMI range extenders (one each). They have a passthrough option, so the monitors are hooked up to the HDMI out of the transmitter. the reciever is hooked up to tvs. The KA220HQ (monitor 3) works fine, no problem. The other two work when they’re connected directly to the graphics card, but when plugged in with the range extenders, one monitor (monitor 2) stays black (the monitor is on, the light is blue. the backlight is off though. when it’s unplugged, it says “no signal” so it’s definitely on). The other one (monitor 1) says “Input Not Supported”. The tvs at the other end of the range extenders work fine, they display as extended monitors, which is what i want. I’d assume the passthrough of the esynic transmitters is somehow broken, but when I boot up the pc, it displays the Fujitsu logo on monitor 1, so the esynic transmitter is able to pass a signal through to the monitor. So it works when it’s just on the BIOS, but once the windows logo shows up though, the dots cycle around twice and then it goes black and says “Input Not Supported” again. Nvidia control panel says the other displays are HDMI TV 1 and 2 and thinks the native resolution is 720p, even though every part of the chain is 1080p, including the tvs. I previously tried the range extenders on a gt 730 and individually they worked and nvidia control panel saw them both as P225HQ’s, but that one only has one HDMI slot so I had to test them individually. It’s not an HDCP issue, no matter the way it’s connected nvidia control panel says monitor and card are HDCP compliant The system I’m working on is not the one in my signature The GPU is a gt 710-4h-sl-2gd5 CPU I7 3770 Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, latest version of 1909 HDMI extender: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Control-Repeater-Network-Ethernet/dp/B0186YN80K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=10ISL9VQAI71I&dchild=1&keywords=esynic+hdmi+extender&qid=1592252431&sprefix=esynic%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-3 latest geforce drivers are installed
  7. Thanks, I’m checking that one out now, I’ll probably get that.
  8. So I opened up my laptop and on the wifi card itself it says it’s a QCNFA435. I can’t find much on it, but this aliexpress listing at least has some specs, and there it says it’s a bluetooth 4.1 chip. So why does device manager say it’s a QCA9377, and why did drivers for the 9377 install and work? Edit: I forgot the aliexpress link https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32825712090.html
  9. hey, thanks for commenting i bought my laptop on amazon in 2018, so maybe they updated the internals by then. i added a picture of my device manager. but even if mine didn’t have it, on the dell and lenovo websites i found, that they also say that chip is bluetooth 4.1. i just think it’s weird that qualcomm says it’s 5, but then all the manufacturers say 4.1
  10. So on qualcomm's website they say that this chip is bluetooth 5, but when i go into device manager and check the LMP version, it can only do up to bluetooth 4.1 (in a laptop, ROG gl702vmk). of course asus support just says to update drivers, but that didn't change anything and qualcomm as far as i can tell doesn't do customer support, only on the enterprise level. quite a few manufacturers say the chip is 4.1 as well, for example dell and lenovo. anyone know why qualcomm says it has bluetooth 5 when it seems no one else says it does?
  11. huh, i guess that's a massive marketing hack then. so running an acrylic wire or sheet underneath is probably best. i need to keep it thin because my mouse and keyboard are on a pull out tray under my desk.
  12. I couldn't really find a topic like this one. point me to it if i missed one. I was wondering how some RGB mouse pads use a "tube" that looks kind of like an el wire, but it has zones and changes colors. Something like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LUXCOMS-Oversized-Extended-,Non-Slip-Mat,31-5X/dp/B07GSXJZSV I just bought a new mouse pad and was thinking of adding RGB myself and finding something like that would be best, as it doesn't add thickness and looks cool. I couldn't find anything searching online either; hopefully someone here can help. Thanks:)
  13. so I have an ROG laptop with a 120hz display built in and a 144hz monitor connected over miniDP. My question is if there is any performance impact if they're running on different refresh rates and if it would actually be better to run one screen at a lower one so the GPU doesn't have to churn out as many frames at once when i'm not utilizing the second screen. I run on Win 10 Education. Laptop screen is G-sync certified (although i think only to 60hz) and monitor is FreeSync, but G-sync compatible. GPU is 1060 6GB
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