AeroMagnus

Can you try another encoder? I’ve had the same issue but it depended on the output file type. I used some that were recommended by YouTube and also had to increase the render quality. I used max anyway to compensate for the downscaling during upload. 

PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($279.00 @ Shopping Express) 
Motherboard: MSI B450-A PRO MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($164.00 @ Skycomp Technology) 
Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($97.90 @ Newegg Australia) 
Storage: Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($94.98 @ Amazon Australia) 
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB Red Dragon Video Card  ($463.88 @ Amazon Australia) 
Case: HEC HX320 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($68.20 @ Newegg Australia) 
Power Supply: Antec NeoECO Gold ZEN 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply  ($119.00 @ PCCaseGear) 
Monitor: ViewSonic VX2458-C-MHD 23.6" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor  ($259.00 @ Computer Alliance) 
Keyboard: Cherry G80-3800 MX Board 2.0 Wired Standard Keyboard  ($79.95 @ Mwave Australia) 
Mouse: Corsair Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse  ($42.98 @ Amazon Australia) 
Total: $1668.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-07 12:17 AEST+1000

You can't just plug it into random ports in the back.
Blue = Line In (e.g. audio signal going INTO the motherboard)
 

 
 
Are you using analog Green Line Out, for your headphones?
What about your speakers?
Are you speakers also using a the Green Line Out, or USB of some sort?

I do get a drop-down menu.
 
Did you download the Realtek Audio drivers for your motherboard?
I don't mean audio drivers Windows automatically downloads, but the drivers from AsRock's website.

 
I did a quick test...so this is what I have connected for audio...
Audio from monitor speakers (2x since I have two monitors) 5.1 speakers from the motherboard's rear I/O (green-orange-black ports) Headphones using the front audio port Headphone using USB port 5.1 speakers shows up as --  'Speakers (Realtek Audio)
Headphones connected to the front panel shows up as -- Realtek HD Audio 2nd Output (Realtek Audio)

It shouldn't matter if the speakers are old or new.
They are analog, so doesn't require drivers.
The computer would just see it as regular a$$ speakers plugged in.
 
Disconnect your the headphone + mic connect the the front, and reconnect them.
Your screenshot is from the RealTek App.
I basically have everything the same as you...

 
 
What does your Control Panel > Sound look like?
This is what I have...
Speakers = speakers hooked up to the back
RealTek HD Audio 2nd Output = headphones plugged into the front

Is your motherboard standard or repurposed?

doubt it'll NEED them, but they could be a nice adition later down the line

Did you move the cooler by any chance?
 

Did you apologize? That's the important part.

Ok, if you're honestly looking for a better kit of ram to pair with that 2600, micron rev. e typically goes well since it is less stressful on the memory controller and clocks well, I'll link a kit that I found below
https://www.amazon.com.mx/Crucial-Ballistix-Velocidad-Negro-Standard/dp/B083TSFGBP/ref=sr_1_13?__mk_es_MX=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=crucial%2Bballistix%2Bsport%2Blt%2B3000mhz&qid=1587800764&sr=8-13&th=1
Honestly though, depending on what ram you currently have, it might not be worth it to upgrade

Things to be aware of when using LEDs:
Each LED has a voltage drop across the LED to light it. Give it too little, it won't light; give it too much, it'll draw too much current and burn out. That means you have three ways to wire a bunch of them:
1. In series: this might be the easiest way, but you have to factor in the voltage drop. If your LEDs each require, say, 1V, and you put more than 5 of them in series on 5V power, you won't get light from any of them. However, this is easy because you only need one current-limiting resistor in the series (and it can be a smaller value since it's not as high of a voltage drop across it).
2. In parallel: this allows you to put more LEDs, but be aware of the current draw from each. You could put e.g. 100 LEDs on 5V, and have no issues, since each is dropping the voltage by only 1V. However, each LED should have its own resistor, and your power supply needs to be able to supply enough current to all of them (i.e., if each LED requires 10mA, then 100 of them requires 1A).
3. What you might call a grid, you put a few in series and put all the serieses in parallel. With this topology, you might put, say, 4 LEDs in series with a single resistor, and do this 25 times, then put the groups in parallel. This would then mean you have 4V drop across each series, allowing you to use smaller resistors, and have only a 250mA current draw. This may be the best way to wire a lot of LEDs.
Note that the values I gave here are all purely theoretical; use the actual values for your components. Look at the datasheets if you have them or can find them online; otherwise, use your multimeter to measure the drop across your LEDs (wire an LED with a resistor and power it up; measure voltage across just the LED, not the resistor).
Also, if doing anything in parallel, be certain to use a resistor on each parallel leg, especially if using LEDs from different vendors or in different colors. That way the resistor picks up the slack of any possible mismatches in voltage drops.

1- 
2- that's almost $30, where doing it myself would cost like $8 

Are you buying it from that Amazon link then?
If it is being sold by Amazon Mexico, 95%+ it will have the AM4 bracket included.
 
The Pure Rock Slim is a lower performing cooler...
 

I don't know how Cooler Master is packaging the Hyper 212 EVO with the AM4 bracket.
For Intel, they ALSO have a 'X' bracket -- I am using a Hyper 212 EVO on my i7-8086K PC right now.
 
They might have a couple of 'X' brackets included with the CPU cooler -- you need to use the one for AM4.
The brackets can open & close, so you may need to open + adjust the 4x screws to line-up with the mounting holes on the motherboard.
 
Sorry for the big picture, just took it on my phone, and uploaded it here.
The Intel 'X' bracket with the screws and opening the 'X' up to fit LGA 1151 socket.
 

 
 

Looks like it should be AM4 compatible, old stock might not be but it would have to be like 3+ years old at this point so it should be fine, if not Cooler Master can provide AM4 brackets for free I believe (don't quote me on that). Or you can return/exchange it with Amazon.

Thank you very much. I would be lying if I told you that I didn't chose it for that cyberdemon logo. 
And sincerely I don't use USB 3.0 at all as my system is fairly entry level and I don't think I will be upgrading it soon. 
I just wanted something to help with thermals. Thanks again

Hey there. Here are my thoughts:
For $70 - $80, I'm a little bit disappointed it comes with only 1 x USB 3.0 (and 2 x USB 2.0). Other cases like the Phanteks P300 ($59.99, on sale), EVGA DG-75 ($59.99, on sale), and CORSAIR 275R ($79.99), offer 2 x USB 3.0. (Personal Bias: I prefer quality over quantity.) The mesh front panel looks like it'll help with thermals, but do note that the case only has 2 x 120mm fans included. Also, according to the specs, the front will only fit 2 x 120mm fans or 2 x 140mm fans, as opposed to the 3 x 120mm or 2 x 140mm fan options offered by almost all other mid-tower ATX cases. Generally speaking, mesh cases can be louder than non-mesh variants, and I doubt the case is outfitted with noise-dampening material, especially at its price point. Something to keep in mind, perhaps? Or just have a pair of good headphones ready. Plenty of storage space with 3 x 3.5" drive bays and 4 x 2.5" drive bays. Rubber grommets and holes seem to offer fairly hassle-free cable management, which is nice.

Do you have any intake fans at the top? If you can't get 75fps on 720p then you won't get 75fps on 1080p on the new monitor. So maybe you need to get the case first and see if it makes a change. I'd personally see if I can saw a hole bottom half of the front panel and add a fan(or even one to the top). Then make sure airflow is good. I don't see any airflow for the CPU either so maybe elevating it and putting fans on the bottom would be good. I could be wrong but it'd cool to tinker if you would get a new case anyway! Like if you break your current case then just get a new one. 

It turns on when it needs to and if you got 750W to power up a GT 710 that means never.

One of that PSU's features is "Zero RPM fan mode for near-silent operation at low to medium loads".

Then multi rail

A good 450W power supply will power a system with a Ryzen 2600 + RX 580 just fine. You're looking at less than 300W power draw from the system while under load in games and such. No need for 650W unit.
 
I wouldn't bother looking at used power supplies on ebay. Power supply is one of those things that you should buy new. RAM? GPU? CPU? Buy those used no worries. Not PSUs or HDDs.
Keep a look out on Newegg, amazon, microcenter, etc in the coming weeks because they will be having their Black Friday sales so you might be able to get a brand new power supply at a pretty good price. That might also be a good time to look at picking up a B450 motherboard, Ryzen 2600, the RX580, plus anything else you need for your new system. They often have CPU + Motherboard or CPU + Motherboard + RAM bundles as well where you can save an extra $30-$50 or sometimes more which practically pays for the new power supply.
 
Cooler Master MWE V2 are okay
Corsair CX450M would be a good cheap option
Corsair CX550 (not the CX450 since it only has 1 PCIe cable and some RX580s require 2) would be a better choice for a few extra bucks
Bitfenix Formula
The Rosewill Photon 550W on newegg has a pretty good sale at the moment bringing it down to $65.
Probably heaps more but those are just a couple of decent budget units I can think of off the top of my head.

By receipt you mean monthly statement, correct? What electric company do you use, so I can look up a sample statement?
 
The only thing I could think that might be the case is the 15 reading is the daily average, and it will have the monthly amount noted somewhere else.

Real quick, prolly should not post this if it has any personal information on it.

That is super weird. Is the meter difficult to get to? Can you read the meter yourself? How long has it been reading like this? I mean, at some point, someone might come out to repair/replace the meter if it's not reading right, though that largely depends on if any of the techs, or anyone in the office even notices it.