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AeroMagnus

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Posts posted by AeroMagnus

  1. 7 minutes ago, PineyCreek said:

    I used to say you can't go wrong with Samsung SSDs, but Samsung proved me wrong on that with a couple of models.  I still stick with them as they're otherwise solid and their SSD management/update Magician app works well for me.  Linus has used Sabrent Rocket drives with success in his videos, but I don't know how reliable they are long-term.  Haven't heard any complaints about the Western Digital SSDs.  Maybe WD_BLACK 1TB SN770 or Samsung 970 Evo Plus?  Samsung had some screwups recently with the 970 but I bought one recently and they all come with the updated firmware now it seems...so unless you buy used or from a retailer that hasn't sold them in months, you'd get the new stock.  Firmware can be updated quick with the Magician app though.

     

    One more question, is your storage set to AHCI or RAID? (Advanced -> Storage Configuration -> SATA Mode)  Should be on AHCI.  May or may not be pertinent.  Usually causes more issues on Intel systems from what I read.

    Thanks, I’ll take it into account when i get my refund and order a new one. Also tried that too since i followed quite a few troubleshooting guides, putting it into RAID made it bootloop but guess I’ll fiddle around more until i take it to the post office 

  2. 2 minutes ago, Sawa Takahashi said:

    What is the model of the Crucial SSD ? I've met many problematic Crucial P3 SSDs because of counterfeits or bad batches.

    With only the NVMe installed, your computer should at least put an error message Incorrect Boot Drive or something similar. Your Crucial is probably defective at this point.

    Yeah its a p3….. fuck me 😕 should i return it then right… ? Tried it several times standalone on both slots so guess I’m SOL 

     

    3 minutes ago, PineyCreek said:

    Think that's an Asrock board, not Asus.  That aside, you don't see a drive appear in the BIOS when it's installed?  Just checking, but have you looked under the Boot section of the BIOS to see if it appears in any slot in the boot order?

    Oop sorry yeah im stressed out.. nope don’t see it under any storage or boot menu

  3. 10 minutes ago, Sawa Takahashi said:

    We need a bit more info on your system to properly help.

    As I understand, you were booting from a 2.5 SSD and added a NVMe. Do you know that some m.2 slots share ressources with SATA ports ? It is possible that you need to move your 2.5 SSD to another SATA port in order to use both SSDs at the same time.

    4 minutes ago, PineyCreek said:

    At the very least, knowing the model of motherboard might be helpful in troubleshooting.

    mobo is asus b450m pro4 // ryzen2600

     

    i put it in the slot that should disable a sata port and thats how it booted with the two of them, however i cant get past the mobo logo when its in the NVME slot, with or without the 2.5in SSD.

     

    haven't found a case where its even detected in bios/ windows setup

     

    TIA

  4. Just got an M.2 NVME 2tb crucial ssd and now my pc wont go past the logo screen on startup

     

    Do they need to be initialized? Do i need to install windows on it too? 

     

    Ive tried it with and without the orignal 2.5in ssd connected (samsung860 evo or sum) 

     

    Please help i just wanted it for storage but atp I´m Willing to install windows on it too just for it to work

     

    TIA

  5. 12 hours ago, tkitch said:

    you might get a bit more, but seeing as Junction temps were killing you, IDK how much farther you could honestly push it

    pushed it a bit more, 2049 on the clock "auto overclock" at 1.2v; bumped it up to high, was using 170w while pushing 100fps. Died again. gonna try 2ghz @ 1.125v high again

  6. On 5/2/2023 at 6:12 AM, tkitch said:

    The 112c Junction is absolutely the killer there.
    The 82 is fine.

     

    You could look into undervolting with MSI Afterburner or something see if that helps?

    image.png.08e2fd1f148bf0f1793698b0eb268f25.png

     

    This is how it performs at mid settings in FH5, undervolted and underclocked, with front panel removed. Think I can get some more juice out of it? 1080p 144hz using FSR on quality mode too... already gettting 142 fps

  7. 22 minutes ago, m9x3mos said:

    Gamers nexus did a video on this a while back. Some partner designs were just bad. 

    That though would cause it to throttle. When you say kill pc, what do you mean? 

    With it running hot it shouldn't kill the pc.

    You can try under volting to see if that helps. 

    Also make sure you have good air flow through the case. If you have bad air flow, it will choke any card. 

    I saw that video too, but it didn’t seem like it was any worse than the others, I used to run a 580 nitro on the same case but I guess I’ll remove the front filter since it has two of them…

     

    also when I say kill I mean black screen, no warnings, no blue screen, nothing just goes black and I have to wait for it to cool down a bit ig? Before I can turn it on again

  8. 14 minutes ago, tkitch said:

    GPU Z or the AMD Drivers can tell you how hot the card runs, as well as what power it's drawing.  (It should only be ~250W, so yeah, a 750 should be plenty.)

     

    I'd check temps, frequencies, etc. and report back with info from how it's running.

     

    Hmm after some rough testing it seems its running at around 82c/ 112c@J 2060ish MHz? ill log it tmrrw but yeah 3300 rpm...

  9. I recently downloaded Forza Horizon 5 and running it at high+ kills my computer after like, 20 minutes of playing. Running it at lower settings is ok

     

    PSU is a 750w silver corsair so it should be enough? I blame it on the card cause it has always been hot and loud since i got it. Already repasted but that means no warranty cause my country doesnt have customer protection laws. What are my options? underclocking it? 

     

    TIA!

     

     

  10. 4 minutes ago, Middcore said:

     

    The variable which changed is your system versus the system you tested it in. Logic indicates the problem is not with the card itself. 

    and what can i change? im running a 2600, he was running a 12400f...

     

    4 minutes ago, Hinjima said:

    What version of the card did you get?  The 5700XT's do run quite hot.  Undervolting might be an option. And as posted above, does your case have good enough airflow compared to when you tested it before buying.

    MSI MECH OC edition.. 200w and id say my case is quite similar (mATX, 2 intake one exhaust) to the one it was tested on 

  11. Title. just bought a 5700xt second hand and its being hot (105 at j, 85c temp) just replaced thermal compound and clean installed drivers to no avail,

     

    any ideas? it wasnt nearly as loud when i tried it before buying... kinda sad rip second hand market.

     

    What are my options? tightening the screws even more? Windows clean install? 

     

    Performance is adequate and stable afaik

  12. Been on a bit of a slump lately about gaming, work long hours so i get home tired and with stuff to do. Thought about getting a new graphics but i find it hard to justify since I Can't find games that i can enjoy casually anymore since i can't play when i have the "desire". Anyone else had this shift when entering the adult life? what should i do? what are some good games to play that won't get me obsessed completely and dont require friends since im pretty bad at that too lol

  13. 38 minutes ago, Dukesilver27- said:

    Yes, even a 3600 would bottleneck a 6800 XT, in 4K maybe not.

    5600X only on very CPU intensive games such as CP2077, Spider-man Remastered/MM.

    For the price of 6800 XT, you'd be better off with a 5600 and 6700 XT.

    Sadly 6700xt is same price as 6800xt, also offer dissapeared oof

     

    30 minutes ago, starsmine said:

    No, not really, not in any ammount significant enough to be worried about it. 

    an r5 5600 + 6700XT will NOT be better then an r5 2600 + 6800XT in games. 
    Just because 2% off the time the 2600 will "bottleneck" a 6800xt, does not mean you dont get the full performance of the 6800xt 98% of the time. 

     

    thanks, I’ll probably update the gpu first since I think it’s the weakest link either way then we’ll see

  14. Been out of the loop for a while, but if my memory serves me right as long as i had a midrange good enough CPU i could play without worry about. Problem is my midrange good enough R5 2600 isnt even in comparison charts these days 💀. Long story short I've been oogling an RX 6800XT that would come up to around 500 after tax and shipping (lets pretend thats a good deal bc of my country), would i see bottlenecking as in i would see similar performance as i do now?

    I could in theory upgrade to a 5600x with a bios update (scary) but idk i wanna hear yalls opinion

     

    Specs are 

    R5 2600 OC @ 4GHZ

    Rx 580 4gb

    16gb 4x4 walking at 2666Mhz

    1080p144hz display

    B450 mobo

     

    Main games are

    War Thunder

    Valheim 

    For honor

     

    I dont even play that much these days but i still feel like i could use some extra fps so i have one less excuse when i lose or i want to run high SMAA cause im blind and wanna pump up the graphics too

     

    Thank you in advance

  15. 21 hours ago, Zando_ said:

    13 Pro Max here, only go low power mode when it drops below 20%, still manage a good day and 1/2ish usually, with 8-13 hours screen on time. It is a noticeable jump from my 11 Pro Max, never had the 12 so I don't have a direct comparison to that. +1 on the Pros all being very good phones though, especially the 11s and up (when they started throwing in properly chunky batteries, which means it'll last longer before becoming so worn out its unusable, older phones with the smaller batteries had this happen sooner). The 13 Pros also brought the 120Hz screen... which doesn't actually do anything, just makes things feel a lot snappier/smoother. I don't care about high refresh on monitors as I'm already interfacing through a mouse/keeb or controller anyways, but it does feel very nice on a touchscreen.

    I've heard the variable refresh rate helps it save battery cause it can drop down to 10Hz but dunno how much of a gimmick that is since it has no AOD

     

    20 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

    Hmm…. If it’s just the battery they’re what? $50? Let’s call that the start point.  Do you need a good camera?  Do you want the magnet thing? Think of it as features.  What features do you want and what changes were made that you like?  I sort of miss the hardware button from my 7+. The 8 still has that.   Also how long does apple say it will support which version?  Iirc the 6s is still supported.  If there’s only 2 years left on the 8 or something it’s effectively a cheapo android phone.  For $50. (Or whatever a new battery costs)   If they haven’t even announced a sunset though it’s good until you break it?  I had a 7+ and only got a new phone because it apparently had that sound bug and I never got it fixed (doh!) and the warranty thing timed out on it so it would have needed a new motherboard, so I got a 13 pro max which is apparently a big iPhone 14 now it seems. I got no real use for the fancy camera though, and the lack of button flat out bugs me.  Plus I had a mophie sled and car charger for the thing so it was basically an 8 anyway.  When I got the 13 pro max I had to get a whole new magnetic car charger/holder thing which I have to say doesn’t work quite as well as the mophie did. 

    The battery is only at 80%, so its not like dying dying but its certainly not enought for my daily life, especially my job since I'm always walking, on site, taking pictures, answering emails, etc. Basically can't sit at my desk and charge it since even if it was new it would last me maybe an hour more?

     

     

    7 hours ago, NoWaterCooling007 said:

    I am surprised your iPhone 8 is still holding up. That thing is holding up for 5 years! Coming to your question. Can you wait a bit longer? Else will recommend the 13 or 13 Pro. Max is too big and expensive. I got wrist pain after using the 11 Pro Max. LOL. 

    Regarding battery life, I am waiting for the iPhone 14 Plus which launches next month. It has the larger screen and bigger battery without the "Pro" price tag.

    While yes I could wait I'm:

    1- the kind of idiot whose money burns hole in my pockets and escapes into the backrooms, never to be seen again (mostly "treat yo self" foodstuff)

    2- After asking a couple of irl friends, one with an iP11 and the other with the iP11PM i think I'll look for a 12PM or so, don't feel like paying full price tbh since I also need airpods for the gym cause the dongle keeps breaking

     

    Thank y'all for your suggestions, I'm still open to them though so feel free to express your viewpoints

     

    Edit: after a bit of extra research I've found that iP11's have better battery life than 12's, is that true?

  16. Alright so long story short my iphone 8 is dying big time. Not necessarily slow or buggy or anything but the time has come to updgrade.
    My main complaint is battery, i have to charge it three times a day if I even want to think about using it after lunch. 67% by 9am and it's not like I'm gaming or watching tiktoks.

    So for some context:

    I can afford up to the new 14 pro max 128gb (I don't need more storage tbh) but its not available yet.

    Also i dont take a lot of photos but I want to start doing it more or w/e

     

    All prices are pre-tax:
    Right now the 13 pro max is the same price as the 14 pro max (1250), mostly cause the 14 isnt available in my country as i mentioned, it launches on the 30th at the earliest

    The 13 pro is 1100

    The 13 is around 900ish

    The 12 is 800ish

    12 mini is 650

    13 mini is 800

     

    This is what ive scouted online but I'm open to other suggestions, maybe going to look for older models in store if suggested. 

     

    Other things to consider:

    i might get a 10% discount on those prices, might

    Can't apply for a carrier plan cause they suck

    Not buying used or ebay, or any online really, said store has in-store pickup

    As I said i want battery and a bit of camera action, I know the 13 pro has pro motion but I think i can live without it 

    Not considering an android, had enough of ads in the slide down menu, forced apps, corrupted photos etc.

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts I hope i didnt sound like a choosing beggar lol 

     

    Captura de pantalla 2022-09-22 222247.png

  17. Hello, i was wondering if i could use airpods max/pro with any bluetooth adapter or if i should lookout for special version of bluetooth? Cause theres some really cheap ones that are USB and i wonder if thats enough or if i need something thats like say PCIE; my mobo doesnt have wifi or bt 

     

    thanks 

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