Demonic Donut

I would get a 6700xt now. Your card is dead and waiting won't get you anything better imo.
 
I purchased a new 6700xt for $380 USD after taxes, it's a 3 fan card so I paid ~$20 more for it vs base cards. It pulls less power than my 5700xt and performs better. Definitely a good card and I'm happy with it.

I would get a 6700xt now. Your card is dead and waiting won't get you anything better imo.
 
I purchased a new 6700xt for $380 USD after taxes, it's a 3 fan card so I paid ~$20 more for it vs base cards. It pulls less power than my 5700xt and performs better. Definitely a good card and I'm happy with it.

The Arctic P12 are generally the go to recommendation for this, they're $30 for a pack of 5 with pretty good performance. 

top front fan intake and top back fan as exhaust with top middle empty 

Clear cmos 

Some components need to be warm(ish) to operate properly. RAM doesn't like getting sub zero. SSDs need to be warm to operate best. There's a reason that extreme overclockers only cool the GPU and CPU dies.
 
If you want a project try water cooling with a chiller. An appropriate glycol mix would get you sub zero easily enough.
 
Or even more exotic, do a DX evaporator for your CPU and potentially GPU. I've gathered everything I need for this except a working compressor but other projects always take over.
 
These are expensive to build and take a lot of electricity to run, but for the lolz they are very cool. Definitely not an everyday item.
 
More practical fun projects would be an evaporative fluid cooler mounted outside or a geothermal loop. You'll stay plenty cool with room for OC, keep the heat outside (if you want that in the summer etc) and still have a fun project.
 
But nothing beats liquid nitrogen for extreme OC, it's actually relatively inexpensive to get set up with liquid nitrogen and a pot for it.

Check it's wiring for the LEDs. If you see any exposed wires going into LEDs or the LED assembly, just snip one of cables.

Xpower a2 blower

Your gpu took an arrow to the pci-e lane.

Arctic p12 argb 3-pack.

just ac the rad and keep the rad away from the pc

Thermal paste quality only make about 1-3C difference, get any decent average quality one and you're fine.
To that end, I think your thermal performance isn't that bad, 85C is quite safe, how long have you have the card? 
If 2 years or more, you might get better thermals after repasting, what matters more is cleaning the dust and lint from the cooler/heatsink and providing better air flow. Although, I find that better case fans doesn't help cooling that much, running the PC without side panel however, makes the GPU run about 5-7C cooler.
That room temperature doesn't help either, I find that if I turn on AC my PC runs about 2-3C cooler than no AC (I live in Indonesia, room temps without AC is probably 26C-28C).
 

Der8auer did a video on tap vs closed loop cooling. Ran some calculations on the amount of water/energy it takes to manufacture radiators and pumps etc. It turns out using tap water actually isn't that bad for the environment, especially when you factor in geographic location.

I use a PMP-600 @ 24V to drive 100 feet of hose.  I use a second one to drive 4 PC's worth of waterblocks and it still hits 200l/h.  Inventory: 4 CPU waterblocks, 2 GPU waterblocks, 5 quick disconnects, 1 radiator, probably 10 90s, 25ft of 3/8 tubing.  Tubing by itself and radiators don't really count towards restriction.
 
Elevation changes don't matter with a loop, because for every "uphill" there's also a "downhill" to cancel it out.  It only matters if they pump can't complete the elevation on initial fill.
 
You could also drive your loop with a second D5 pump in series or a PMP-450S @24V.  Much like how everyone goes big-overkill on their power supplies, people also go way overkill on how much flow they really need.  It's also an exponential curve where you need exponentially more pressure to generate marginally more flow, and when you add a third D5 pump it becomes real easy to start blowing tube off fittings and push past o-rings and shit.  That's the point where you need to start running stuff in parallel.

just don't connect it to the internet. only thing you need to worry about is switching inputs depending on what you have connected to it.

I placed few fans on top of PCB specifically on top of cpu and GPU to move the oil 

Also, baby oil has additives. It's not pure mineral oil. You should not use baby oil.

Well you still need a cooler on it... No fan obviously, but you still need the cooler to spread the heat generated by the IHS/die.

@Shimejii PC was built with gaming and budget in mind. She hadn't planned to do any Adobe work when the computers were built. It does pretty well though. Now I probably would have spent the extra $150 or so but it didn't make sense back then.  
 
@dogwitch  I know it's already trying to use the SSD as a cache and it's not pretty.  
 
@SupaKomputa  I've thought about this but people seem to act like it's sacrilege to run mixed sizes or a mixed kit. I used to run 1 extra 4gb ddr3 stick with two matched 4gb sticks in my old build and the extra ram was better than any possible performance hit I took from having uneven slots.   I'd like to save the extra $100 on 32 vs 64 and use it towards a more color accurate monitor if I can get away with it.

Is there literally no air? A little bit of air (a CC or 2 is probably more than enough) plus the flexibility of the loop is (most likely) plenty of room for the thermal expansion that the loop will experience. Also loops are surprisingly good at handling pressure. Check out Jayz video on over pressurizing a custom loop.
 
There is usually air somewhere in the system to allow the water to expand and compress the air, even with distro blocks.
 
I was taught water will expand 5% from fill to boiling, assuming 40 degree F fill water. It's closer to 4% if I remember correctly, but we always did 5% for fudge factor and the math is easier that way. The small amount of expansion a loop goes through due to it's low delta T makes it not too much of an issue
 
If you have no air space, you should pull some water out and let air in, but you don't need much.

You don't really need any reservoir (see AIOs), it's just that the bigger the reservoir, the easier the loop is to fill. It's the main reason I try to stick to large tube reservoirs for my main system -- I'm lazy. 
 
Yeah, but there's not really much of a point to it, it doesn't really make it any easier to fill up, it might even make it harder. Just stick to a single res, a small one is fine, it'll just take a little bit to get everything filled and the loop bled. 

You could also under volt it

@TungaM
Those idle temps are perfectly normal. Spikes are caused by windows doing some background task intermittently.

What CPU are you trying to water cool, and how much are you willing to spend? 
 
Odds are both of those coolers are gonna be an Asetek rebrand with an LCD bolted on top of the pump, so they will perform identically and you should just get whichever one is cheaper. That said, you can probably get something from the likes of Arctic or EKWB that will perform better than those coolers for less (just without the LCD bolted on top), or depending on your CPU stepping down to a dual tower air cooler might give you pretty similar results and be a lot cheaper.

Pricing for me, U12S redux is $50 and Gammax 400 is $25. Cooling/noise wise, you'd probably be better off spending the extra money on some case fans depending on your case and how many fans you already have.
 
Or save the money for bills, a dinner out, a new game or something that brings you some fun.
 
If you like the look of the u12 redux, and it's worth the extra money to you for coolness, definitely get it.