Demonic Donut

Oop... I can read, I promise. Serves me right for being snarky about it. Regardless, if OP can afford it a better cooler is going to improve performance. Like @Bombastinator said, it'll run but not particularly at its best.

I have a C14 on my wife's 3600, pretty much identical build to mine in a different case. It works very will. Definitely recommend if it will work for you.

Any sustained load will throttle heavily. Even gaming. If you can afford a 5800X, you can afford a $20-$50 cooler to cool it.

It will definitely affect cooler performance if this is after cleaning. I'd sand it on a flat surface.

I don't think Linus will mildly asphyxiate his staff for a video. That said, not too high of CO2 levels do impact brain function. That's why Sick Building Syndrome was such a problem before building air quality llaws If your air is that stale in your house, you need to open a window or get a ventilator.

I have had problems with noise when fan blades are too close to the grille. Only on my intake fans. My guess is it's from the fan blades moving across the holes at higher speeds. This happens with my Noctua A14 fans and Arctic P12 ARGB fans I have. Starts at around 40% speed and gets louder as RPM increases. I solved it by spacing the fans out with washers, then taping the edges to create a seal. Try removing a fan from the case and run it while holding it in your hand. This way you can narrow down the cause of the noise. If the noise is still present, it may be something inherent with that fan. 4 noisy fans isn't a coincidence.

*Pats Carbide 400r* There there, they didn't mean it.

Have you ran HWInfo64 while doing your work and see what is going on when you get the stutters? That would be my go to. It sounds like you could be having your RAM get full and pagefile use might be up.

DLSS is Deep Learning Super Sampling. Basically renders the image at a lower resolution then fudges the image up to a higher resolution. They've gotten it so it looks pretty good, but it can degrade your graphics quality.

And if all else fails, secure a case fan on the shroud by whatever means necessary.

Why don't you just turn off one or two mining cards while you game and have better graphics? I don't mine large scale so maybe this is more difficult on a large system? Are you limited to just one 15 amp circuit for some reason? If not, go to a hardware store and buy a 50ft extension cord for your gaming PC and plug it into another circuit.

I have a Noctua A14, which has 125mm mounting spacing vs the 105 like the A15, in the middle of my D15 and the stock clips are ok. IIRC they were a little bit harder to clip on but it's doable. You don't need an adapter to use standard 140mm fans.

How are your temps now?

I find it really bizarre as well. OP did you verify it was fan noise only and not the pump? Why didn't you try new fans on the radiator? Price wise you could have gotten a bunch of good fans for the cost of the DRP4.

They misunderstood. The way you worded it made them think that you meant two separate loops, because you dictated which radiator is serving which component and that's not how it works in a single loop. You can definitely run a 360 and 240 with cpu/GPU blocks and a good pump.

Not really. But pwm fans tend to be higher quality. But my experience with DC fans are cheap ones that come in cases from the factory.

What size fan? An Arctic P12 or P14, depending on size needed, is inexpensive and performs well.

The door is usually closed to the room? Are you wanting to circulate air from the rest of the living space or are you looking for outside air? Either way, you need air in and out. If the door to the room is undercut, an exhaust fan would be easy enough to install to pull the warm air that stratified at the top of the room out and cool air can come in from under the door. If your door isn't undercut enough, you may need a transfer grille to allow air into the room. If you don't want to deal with cutting into the ceiling, you could do a through the wall vent fan. Also easy to do, electrical will be the most difficult part of the project. Unless you go janky/against code and use an extension cord.

I just got an Arctic P12 ARGB fan to test out for my new desk build. Performance is good, it's pretty quiet as well. They are about $20 US each on Amazon. It plays nice with my Gigabyte motherboard, so no controller needed for me anyway. They also daisy chain into each other so that's a perk. Any ARGB fan is probably going to be more than $10 each.

Where are you located? In the US there are many suppliers. Grainger, while not being the cheapest, is a good supplier with many locations and a good selection of materials and tools. It would be a one stop shop. You could probably find a radiator that would work from them as well. Surface area and circulation will effect heat disapation from the oil. I'm not going to even try to do the napkin math on that one. If people more well versed in that style of cooling say an aquarium pump is enough, I'd be inclined to believe them. Worst case, you can add the radiator after the fact.

Like @narrdarrsaid, you should be ok with passive cooling as long as you have enough oil surface area and the laptop isn't high powered. Viton would be my first choice for tubing if you want something flexible. It's not crazy expensive and would be easier to work with vs stainless steel or copper lines. You could also use glass for water cooling, just make sure whatever fittings you have use O-Rings that are compatible with mineral oil.

Decent paste should last at least a couple of years. My Noctua paste is over 2 years old at this point and performs the same. I've had good luck with Thermal Grizzly and Noctua products. Any that you mentioned will be fine if you do a decent job of applying them. If you're feeling adventurous, buy some conformal coating and TG Conductonaut. It'll get the best performance but is risky if your laptop receives a lot of vibration or you don't apply it right. Conductonaut really shines when used directly on the silicon.

What is the CPU temp when you are in bios?

Can you get into bios?

2 big initial problems. First off, your computer component water blocks and all related tubing need to be rated for potable water. Good luck finding that certification. Second you'd need constant flow. For your water heater setup, you would at least need a circ pump that would cycle water through the computer even if there was no one using hot water. Then material/labor cost wise, its just not worth it. If you want to do large scale water cooling, you definitely can, but your ROI you'll get with energy savings is going to be years, if ever, practically speaking. To do it right you'd need plate and frame heat exchangers, pumps, tons of extra piping etc. All to gain a few degrees of temp going into your water heater. If you are using the radiant heating system, you'll be heating up your computer components as most radiant floor systems are running at least 80-90 degree F water, in my experience, usually higher especially with low outdoor temps. If you want to do something off the wall, look into remotely locating radiators or even doing a geothermal loop. 500 hundred feet or so of PEX in a trench or vertical hole would work quite well. I would like to do this in a few years, if and when we buy a new house