Demonic Donut

Any pictures? Are you trying to keep it looking stock? Blower fans (centrifugal fans) are usually used because they can be thinner and blow air perpendicular to the shaft axis. If you are ok with rigging something up, your best bet is to 3d print a mount of some kind and buy a good static pressure fan.

Not all cards have fan stop.

Yes. Good solder will provide the best heat conduction. I'd guess high silver % solder is used. It tends to flow well. And you need very tight tolerances to solder. You utilize capillary action to wick the solder through the joint well. The ends of the heatpipe are soldered shut, not the middle. The middle solder would be for securing the pipes to the block. They are pushed through holes in the cold plate, then bent and soldered to it.

A friend of mine just bought one for a sandy bridge xeon build he did for his kid. Its performing well. He didn't give me tons of info, but said he was getting 83fps on metro 2033 at 1080P. Not sure what quality settings. It'll perform on par with a 1660 or so. If you aren't gaming. Buy something cheaper though. Even an old 660 etc will be plenty. But getting something newer would be better for support.

I have a 27" 1440P with similar desk spacing and I like it. Not too big, not too small. My wife has a 32" ultrawide with similar vertical height and it's good as well. The legs of both aren't too deep, so they don't suck up too much real estate.

Is the windows usb the legit installer?

Extremely unlikely, but possible. Heatpipes rarely leak, unless they are cracked/broken from abuse. If you need to test a heat pipe, run hot water over one end and feel how quickly the heat transfers. If it's within a second or two, the heatpipe is fine. Don't use a lighter/flame, you'll burn yourself, or worse, burst the pipe.

That would indicate to me that you used worse paste or did a bad spread or mount. Air coolers do not lose performance over time, unless they are just dirty. Did you clean your entire system? Is your system truly idle or are there background tasks being performed? Is your ambient temp higher than normal? The discoloration is the solder oxidizing minorly. Completely normal. And with silver solder, is to be expected. Silver oxidizes quite readily. That's why my grandma was always polishing her silverware before holiday meals.

Do you have another display you can test with? Also, quote people so they get a notification.

It's clear and in focus... Because I'm looking at it. THAT is the problem with motion blur. It doesn't know what I'm looking at, so it either blurs everything that moves or tries to relate it to the camera. Its an artistic, artificial effect that they (game developers) either like, or think others like. If I'm focusing on something, I don't want it blurry. If I'm not focusing on something, it will naturally blur because of MY vision and not something being induced by the picture on the screen. Therefore, for me, motion blur is pointless because it adds stress to my system and looks terrible. It doesn't do anything productive or graphically superior.

I get that it can be done well. And look realistic etc. But I don't want it or like it. Done well or not. It's a matter of preference. It makes things look blurry, and my eyes don't like it.

Bad sensor.

- Finish my NAS/Plex/Security server build. Need to buy some hard drives and make a cabinet for the garage. - Install my backup generator electrical so I can backfeed my panel instead of using electrical cords. Also, look into converting the LP gas portion to Natural Gas. - Build a new desk with integrated pc cases.

Reseat the the cooler. Do you have more thermal paste? Seems that you just have a bad paste or mount, or both.

It seems high. What case do you have and what is your ambient temperature? Do what @moonzy said and try running with no side panel and see if that helps. Is this a new build? New issue? You could try a remount on the cooler. Also, I'm not sure about the 3800x, but the 3600 applies an excessive amount of voltage at auto settings. You could try lowering core voltage. It dramatically helped my temperatures.

What happens if you run CPU burner leaving two or three threads open then running Furmark at the same time?

IPS, TN or VA? What's your main goal? My wife loves her IPS panel due to its great colors vs my TN. I like the better refresh of the TN.

Be sure to test under load. I like to use MSI kombuster CPU burner for a medium current draw load. Let it run for at least 30 minutes to see where temps stabilize.

Its not really a problem for me. I still get into bios fine. I just wasn't sure if that was what OP meant, but they had an actual issue with their display.

Ah, ok. What kind of budget? Any requirements other than 2k 144hz?

Check your vrm temps with HWInfo. If they are getting high, your motherboard might be underpowered for the CPU.

My viotek won't turn itself on from standby fast enough to show the press Del to enter bios screen. Is that what you mean? Just mash the key and by the time the display activates you'll be in bios. For me the timing is when the key board backlight comes on.

Those are it's only connections?

What is the controller powered by? Some usb ports etc stay active after shutdown.

I would try reseating everything. Clear CMOS. Then try again. If that doesn't work. RMA the board. *Edit* and I mean everything. All power plugs, RAM, CPU etc. Just rebuild the system.