Demonic Donut

I was at a pool party this weekend and found a phone in the pool, turns out it was my phone that fell out of my pocket before I changed into trunks to swim with my kids. Anyway... It was off when I got it out (went in on) and I was out of town. I left it off until I got home a few days later, I removed the back glass and the subframe and speaker assembly. I also unplugged the screen and battery connectors. I've had it drying for a couple days now. I'm not sure if there is anything else I should do before I try to turn it on again. I know it's probably toast, but I'm hopeful that I don't need to spend a few hundred on a new phone. Its a Samsung S10+ Any recommendations?

I'd upgrade CPU first. A better GPU will definitely perform better than the a750 but you're going to be absolutely choked by anything less than a Ryzen 3600 or better, regardless of GPU. The devinci website recommends a minimum of a i5/R5 and prefers i7/r7 for processor. What is your budget? I would recommend a 12600 at least, and if you can get that + a GPU, then get both.

I would get a 6700xt now. Your card is dead and waiting won't get you anything better imo. I purchased a new 6700xt for $380 USD after taxes, it's a 3 fan card so I paid ~$20 more for it vs base cards. It pulls less power than my 5700xt and performs better. Definitely a good card and I'm happy with it.

Everyone is recommending starting at -30 CO but I can't boot over -17 and so far only -10 all core is stable in all games I play. I must have gotten a bad 5800x.

I can't even get into bios. It won't post, doesn't try to do ram training etc

I've tried two GPUs, two power supplies, four different RAM sticks in all slots and reset CMOS already. I haven't pulled the CPU yet but I don't see it being able to come free under a cooler and never being moved around except for gently here and there for cleaning. I can try it later though.

X570 Aorus Elite R5 3600 16gb 3600mhz RAM (ripjaws) 970 EVO m.2 ssds + other sata drives Sapphire Pulse 5700xt (now XFX 6700xt) I was having random crashes and partial BSODs. Due to what the screen looked like I thought it was a graphics card issue. (See attached picture, picture not attaching. I'll keep trying) It would also make strange 8 bit sounding static sounds through the speakers. I swapped an old GPU in and the problem went away. I ordered a new GPU and when it arrived I installed it into the system. A few days later I got the same issue. Restart and it was fine, happened once more the next day. Didn't happen for 3 days, now today it happened again. The rub this time is my PC won't boot/post at all now. I don't have any debug LEDs to go by, but I've got no USB power to keyboard/mouse, wifi card has LEDs lit up, and fans are at full speed. Computer powers up with button but won't turn off with long press. I tried swapping PSUs and that didn't change anything. Ever since I started having issues I've been running HWInfo to see if I had any high temps etc and everything looked normal. My next guess is CPU or Motherboard. I really don't want to buy one and have it be the wrong part. Any guesses out there? Anything I could try?

You can try emailing the manufacturer and asking them about thickness. You can also buy a couple sizes and return what you don't need after measuring the old pads if you don't want downtime. Stacking pads is also ok. Two 0.5mm instead of one 1mm etc.

How high are your temps spiking when this happens? HWInfo64 is a good monitor software that will show you. It's odd that afterburner won't control the behavior, do you have an example of the curve you set? Have you tried another fan control software? If you have high hotspot temps and normal overall temps you might need to repaste your card. One big thing about fan noise, it's the variation we notice the most. I have noctua redux 1700rpm fans on my GPU and while I can hear them at 100% speed, I don't notice them if they stay there. I have my fan curve set to run them at 50% until 35C then they just go to 100%. That way they aren't jumping up and down all of the time. I recommend finding what you deem acceptable for noise level and do something similar for a run speed. You can have the fan be off or very low until the minimum temp you see when gaming, then ramp to the max you are ok with. I would have an "emergency" fan speed at 85-90 that kicks them up even higher, but that's up to you and depends on how the card runs.

I always recommend setting a budget first, but if you are doing 1440p I would recommend 6700xt/rtx3070 or better. Watch reviews and comparisons. I went with a 5700xt a few years ago vs Nvidia because the price to performance was better.

Some components need to be warm(ish) to operate properly. RAM doesn't like getting sub zero. SSDs need to be warm to operate best. There's a reason that extreme overclockers only cool the GPU and CPU dies. If you want a project try water cooling with a chiller. An appropriate glycol mix would get you sub zero easily enough. Or even more exotic, do a DX evaporator for your CPU and potentially GPU. I've gathered everything I need for this except a working compressor but other projects always take over. These are expensive to build and take a lot of electricity to run, but for the lolz they are very cool. Definitely not an everyday item. More practical fun projects would be an evaporative fluid cooler mounted outside or a geothermal loop. You'll stay plenty cool with room for OC, keep the heat outside (if you want that in the summer etc) and still have a fun project. But nothing beats liquid nitrogen for extreme OC, it's actually relatively inexpensive to get set up with liquid nitrogen and a pot for it.

I had a 3-4 degree temp drop on my CPU under full load by placing my top front fan into intake and the rear top in exhaust vs both exhaust. Hot GPU air was getting pulled up into the CPU cooler. You might want to experiment with options. I like to stay positive pressure, I've noticed air pushes out of the empty pcie bracket slots on my case and it's always very warm air from the GPU. I've also had good luck using black duct tape to seal the edge of my fans for better airflow and to prevent the air from short cycling and actually pull in new air and force out old air. A lot of front fans don't pull air into the case well because they are just open frames on all sides that the fans mount to, so the air will just blow around the fan and not into the case and through the fan, if that makes sense. I don't have a glass side panel though so I don't care too much about what things look like on the inside.

The Arctic fans will work a bit better with the radiator.

Noctua H2 on cpus and laptops and thermal grizzly conductonaut on my gpus. H2 is my favorite because it's thin and spreads easily, I've used other thick pastes before and they end up not squeezing out well. It's not super expensive and it lasts a long time.

Front intake with the rest exhaust or for a couple degrees less on the GPU do front exhaust and the rest intake.

Thanks for the reply. I tried CMOS, but I'll look into updating the bios. I'm not even getting a splash screen etc but I'll see what I can do to get into the Dell bios.

I'm trying to fix a friend's Dell Precision T1650 and have run into a bit of a wall. It was boot looping and giving a memory errors via LED flashes. I picked up the tower and tried each memory module individually and in different slots with no luck. I removed the CPU (Xeon E3 1270 v2) and put it in a motherboard of mine (Gigabyte z77a-g43) and it wouldn't post with the RAM from the system but would post with some of my old ram. I tried my RAM in my friends system and it gave memory errors again. I even used a fresh windows install drive I use for testing, different power supply etc and everything works with the gigabyte board but not the Dell board. So I ordered a new Dell motherboard, same exact model, from a vendor. The new board won't even throw an error code, it just boot loops quickly. Fans spin for 2-3 seconds and power off, power on, power off etc. I contacted the vendor but it is a holiday weekend and don't expect to hear back until Monday. Is it likely I just got a bad board or is the CPU bad? I would be surprised if that's the case seeing that it works fine in my z77 board but not the Dell one. Thoughts and ideas welcome. My friend is coming to visit next weekend and I was hoping to get it going for them.

My wife's computer is having BSOD errors galore recently, started yesterday. They seem to happen intermittently and then will happen over and over until Windows runs a few checks etc and tries to fix itself, but they always come back. Hasn't happened while using photoshop, illustrator or premier. Only happens with WoW Classic, the game we've been playing recently. Memory Management kmode exception not handled security check failure error code 0xc0000098 pfn list corrupt Probably a couple others too that I didn't write down. Memtest passed fine. Tried turning off xmp and it still happens. Used DDU and reinstalled GPU drivers. My next thought is a windows/drive issue. I'm running some disk checks currently to see if anything comes up. Windows is installed on a newer Samsung 970 evo m.2 ssd. Probably going to reinstall windows next. Running Windows 10. Almost identical system to mine in the profile except running 32gb of listed RAM and has various other drives. Anyone have any ideas?

This started happening to my wife and I with the latest season. We stopped playing 3 days after it came out. We haven't tried since to see is it's better yet... Is this a new problem for you?

Probably 700w or so between my wife and I while gaming, probably average 2 hours per day. 1.4kw/h x 30 days = 42kwH at $0.10 per is $4.20 per month. Nice...

Most comfortable and, imo best, would be to just install a mini split in the room. A 9000 btu model should be plenty. You can buy a Daikin unit off of Amazon for about $1000 with most of what you need, other than running line voltage to the outdoor unit and you'll need a vacuum pump, minimum, for specialty tools. Daikin is a solid brand. Mitsubishi is my favorite mini split company though. Fujitsu isn't bad either. Stay away from LG. Pioneer is an ok brand on Amazon as well. You can obviously buy from other vendors. But I like to use Amazon as a general option. Some brands have precharged line sets that don't require a vacuum pump but I find them questionable. Regarding dumping heat into the crawl space, make sure it has vents to the outside if you go that route. Also remember, air out = air in. So air from outside will be pulled into the house from somewhere. A sealed in and out box with the PC case in it would work.

Original HD and Windows install? I would try reformating after backing up data and doing a completely fresh install with the drivers etc for all of the new stuff. I had a similar problem when I upgraded my wife's computer and used the old boot drive. Just general instability.

Der8auer did a video on tap vs closed loop cooling. Ran some calculations on the amount of water/energy it takes to manufacture radiators and pumps etc. It turns out using tap water actually isn't that bad for the environment, especially when you factor in geographic location.

IMO, its not worth using LM between a heat spreader and cooler. You won't see much of anything for temp improvement. Using it on the die is a good move though. I use it on my GPUs as they are direct die contact. You can buy conformal coating and use that to protect things around the cpu if you really want to use it though.

There isn't anything better that I know of. Conductonaut is pretty much the standard for liquid metal TIM.