Nabhan

17 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

So what do you actually need lol, haven't you identified it as a Viron VT-806 

 

A picture of it would massively improve your chances.

I'm not sure if that is actually the model number because the label is faded, I'm just guessing that's what it is from what I can see. I tried googling the model number but couldn't find anything online so I was hoping someone else may know it and where I can get spare parts. I put some pictures here, I forgot about them in my original post.

Hi everyone, while going through stuff in my house my brother and I found a tripod which belonged to our grandfather. We're trying to identify it because it's missing it's mounting plate and my brother wants to use it because it seems quite heavy duty. What we can tell is that it's made by a brand called Viron and the model number seems to be VT-806 but I couldn't find anything online. The hole for the mounting plate is 45mm x 50mm and the price label seems to indicate that our grandfather bought it in 1991. Any help would gladly be appreciated.

Thank you

Hey guys, I'm looking to get wifi for my whole house, and have been looking at the TP-Link AX50 and the Deco X20. The reason why I need both is because the wifi signal from a router rarely go past one room in my house, so I'm planning to use the AX50 as the main access point and the X20 to be a mesh for the rest of the house. What I'm wondering is if they are compatible to form a mesh network together. Thanks in advance!

2 hours ago, xAcid9 said:

Crap, unless you don't mind running it at 80c+ all the time and lower performance than reference 2070S while gaming in SEA climate.

I see, okay. So I guess paying more for the MSI would make more sense then.

4 minutes ago, xAcid9 said:

Which model? Their low end cooler is crap, higher end is great. 

GALAX 2070 Super EX-1 click OC

How good is GALAX? Found a store selling the 2070S for 2299 and the 2070 for 1800. 

9 hours ago, RadiatingLight said:

The 1080Ti is stronger than the 2070 (especially if it's not a 2070 Super), but it doesn't do RayTracing nearly as well.

If you care about raytracing, you need RTX. Otherwise, get the 1080Ti.

Also consider power usage however, since the 1080Ti will consume significantly more power.

How much is the difference between the 2070S and the 1080TI? Is it a noticeable one?

1 hour ago, xAcid9 said:

RM2k 1080 Ti? That is used right? 

Ah shoot, you're right, I should've checked the fine print. Looks like most places are still selling for 2800+ still. Damn

Hi guys, 

Recently with my country basically being put on lockdown, I've had time, which I've wasted playing games and looking at computer hardware (as anyone would do in these times). While making lists for a PC I might never build, I realized that the price of the 1080TI(MYR2000 - MYR2400) in my country had fallen to about the same price as the 2070(MYR2000 - MYR2200). That got me thinking, which one would be more worth it to buy at this point? I don't know much about what makes these cards different beyond one has 8GB of RAM at GDDR6 and the other has 11GB of RAM at GDDR5X. I would love to hear your opinions on this because I honestly don't have much else to do now.

Cheers guys!

Edit : 

It seems I let the price get the better of me and I didn't check if it was a brand new unit or not. Turns out, I was looking at a pre-loved 1080TI. Vast majority it seems are still going for over 2800. Bugger. On the plus side though, I found a 2070S which was definitely brand new for 2300 and a 2070 going for 1800, so I guess it's not all bad. Anyone know how good the GALAX GPU's are?

On 1/23/2020 at 9:55 PM, tech.guru said:

LOL. is this for real?

Unfortunately yes. Looking around for a donor board to see if I can fix it that way. I found a place online that sells the replacement PCB and does the bios IC swap for free, and it's not too far from LMG ironically. If my boss lets me, I think I'll send it there.

Well here's a very unfortunate update. While I was at work, someone left the door to my room where I was running the recovery open, and a cat came in and sprayed my desk. Unfortunately it seems that even the drive was hit, as there is corrosion on the underside of it now. I didn't realize a smell in my room and thought everything was ok until I woke my computer from sleep and smoke started pouring out. RIP me

2 minutes ago, DoctorNick said:

Damn, I'm sorry to hear that.I hope you get a nice paycheck for this

Thanks. Every penny goes to getting that 3700x 

12 minutes ago, Ben17 said:

yeah I know the feeling had to try to get 80gb of video files off my hard drive once when it failed (failed to recover them in the end  )

Man, that sucks. I hope I have better luck than that. Please dear God bless me

Just now, Ben17 said:

it's always takes forever when I had to do it once

Yep, so far I've had it running for about 24 hours and I've only recovered about 14GB from the first drive. got a really long way to go still.

1 minute ago, WereCatf said:

Your boss is a moron, a better GPU would not help.

For starters, you could make a bit-for-bit copy of the HDD to an SSD with e.g. ddrescue. Then, configure whatever app you are using to do the recovery to put the recovered data on another SSD. Don't use mechanical drives. Also, a beefier CPU might help.

I think what's more likely is me hearing wrongly, now that I think about it lol. But thanks so much for your help.

Just now, GenericFanboy said:

A gpu wont change much. For speeding it up; there's not really many ways to speed it up i think. Just depends on the speed of the drive. If the drive is slow then that sucks. It'll stay slow

I see, okay. Thanks for the info. Looks like I just have to slug it out.

Hi again everyone,

recently at work my boss asked me to perform some data recovery, gave me the program to use, and sent me on my way. I have to recover data from 3 1TB HDD's and just the first one is taking forever on my aging PC. So my question is, what would help speed up the data recovery? My boss mentioned a better GPU but I don't exactly see how that would work, but if it does, I can borrow my brother's 1080ti because there is absolutely no way the 750ti I have would even come close.

Thanks in advance!

5 minutes ago, boggy77 said:

don't get that motherboard. i recommend a msi b450 max series or a asus x570 or gigabyte x570. the gigabyte b450 aren't great.

as for case, see how much a fractal design focus G is.

and yes, don't pay 800 on a 1080.

Really? Most people I've spoken to recommended the Aorus. What is the issue with them, if you don't mind me asking? Unfortunately, the X series boards are all out of my price range, but the MSI B450 Tomahawk Max is closer in price to the price I'm getting for the Aorus. Also, the Fractal Design Focus G has to be shipped from the US, but price-wise is just slightly more expensive than the MasterBox Pro 5.

Just now, Stu_Bear said:

For starters DO NOT pay $799.99 for a GTX 1080...you can buy new-open-box for $350 if you are patient or used for $300.  Or buy a used GTX 1080 Ti for ~$500.  If you insist on new I'd get the GTX 2070 Super which still is less than $799.99 by a lot.  I think even the GTX 2080 Super is less than that?

Don't worry, I'm not going to buy one new. I found a used 1080 of that model and just put it in the list. 1080ti is a bit more expensive here, even used. The price is about double of a used 1080 at around RM2300($560)

Hi everyone,

A couple months back I posted asking for help with my brother's PC build. Thankfully, we got his PC up and running great and managed to save quite a bit of money thank to suggestions from this forum. Now it's time for me to get an upgrade. Currently, this is the build I am looking at, and I'd like some as to what case I should get. Preferably, I want one with good airflow as well as USB-C. Initially I was looking at the Cooler Master Mastercase H500 Mesh, but it turned out to be quite expensive here in Malaysia. Right now I am looking at the Cooler Master Masterbox pro 5 Nvidia, but any suggestions are welcome. If all else fails, would my current case, a Cooler Master N400, still be a good choice?

23 hours ago, AbsoluteFool said:

I can't see this asked yet so.. I'm just gonna ask right away. What is your connection speed? And how many of you are online at once doing what exactly?

So my internet plan maxes out at 300mbps. When everyone is home, there are 6 people, and everyone has a phone, there are 2 desktop PCs, 4 laptops, a PS4 and a android box TV. Generally, at least 2 of the phones will be on youtube or another streaming service(no netflix), android TV running, both PCs running and 2 of the laptops open but for text work but still connected to wifi. Under very high load, the PS4 and 1 desktop would also be playing games online, with everything else the same as above. The PS4 and 1 desktop are connected by ethernet to the X6, while everything else except for one laptop and phone go through the AP connected to the powerline. 

9 hours ago, jjbeebe said:

I agree with windows7ge, however, I would also look at if you have a limit set in your settings on the router or access points to only allow 10 devices, I would also look at what is connected to your network to see if there is malicious traffic (unorganized devices). I caught a kid once stealing wifi and doing "pranks" with his computer. If so, create a secure password and use WPA 2 and/or WPA 3 if able (depending on the devices) and other security measures. WPA3, if your device supports it, plugged allot of holes, most modern routers or AP can use both WPA2 And WPA3 to accommodate for older computers etc... 

I checked my router, all devices are accounted for and my router can only go up to WPA2 so I guess it's a dead end there.I also couldn't find any setting to limit the number of devices, but to be safe, I did a hard reset and changed the spectrum.

8 hours ago, Windows7ge said:

I'm thinking about the powrline adapter but if the powerline adapter had something to do with it the wireless devices should still automatically re-authenticate with the nearest AP. If there's a complete lack of re-connecting I'm wondering if it's interference with neighbors or failing equipment. Did you check the wireless spectrum in your area? Did you set your AP's to the least busy channel?

I took your advice and I changed the spectrum to one less congested. Now I will wait till everyone gets home and then see if anyone is unable to connect.

1 minute ago, Windows7ge said:

That would not be the case. With the default configuration it should be able to connect up to 253 clients (I don't recommend doing that though). It's definitely something else.

 

So this issue was present before introducing the powerline adapter & AP?

No, it just started these past few months since we moved the router to my room and the AP to my parents room. Before this it was the other way around, but still connected via powerline

Hi everyone, recently my family have started to complain that their phones or computers are getting kicked out of the wifi. At first we thought this was a problem with the wifi signal being lost, but even after getting a second access point, the same thing occurred. I now have a suspicion that my router can only take 10 devices connecting through the ethernet ports on the back. I am using a Netgear Nighthawk X6 R800, and the rest of the house is connected via access point downstairs which is connected to the X6 by way of powerline. if anyone could please confirm or deny it would be very helpful.

4 hours ago, Streetguru said:

It's like a 10-15% jump depending on how fast you can get your memory going. 2000 can handle up to 3200mhz RAM, 3000 can handle up to 3600mhz RAM, would want Cl16 or lower in either case.

The stock coolers will be fine in any event until you can find some major upgrades to them.
 

 

Thanks so much for your help. I will discuss all of this with my brother