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MrBrightSyde

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Everything posted by MrBrightSyde

  1. Depends on the budget and what GPU you would be getting in the future. 3080 requires a decent 750w or 850w. 3070 requires around a decent 600w. 3060ti and 3060 will require around 500w. Honestly the Corsair CX 750w for $85 USD is a great deal right now, but that's if you live in the US. Don't know what country or budget you have so if you could tell us that info, we would be able to help recommend PSUs
  2. ...isn't that the EVGA W1, as shown in the model number(100-W1-0700-K). Here's a review on the 500w version (can't find 700w reviews)
  3. Lower quality than the TUF gaming. If the prices on the site you linked are correct, it's about the same price as the TUF Gaming. Also I want to add that I am retracting my recommendation of the MWE Bronze V2 since it seems to be the 230V only version. So in order of what I would get would be (factoring the price difference): TUF Gaming, EVGA BQ, Cooler Master MWE Bronze, CoolerMaster MWE Bronze V2 230V, Corsair CV. Basically, the TUF gaming is the best choice, but the EVGA BQ should be fine too.
  4. Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 or the TUF Gaming BRONZE (it's not gold rated at all despite what that site says, it even says bronze in the Plasico listing)
  5. I'd recommend either the Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro 550w or the Corsair CX 550w but you could go with a Corsair CX 450w on Newegg for $45 (on sale right now) since the 9400F is a locked chip and doesn't draw a lot of power, while the Zotac AMP 1080 only draws up to 270w using FurMark (closer to 200w while gaming)
  6. 220T is good, but a little tight. And honestly, looking at the prices, it's not worth the cost.
  7. I mean, it took it's advertised speed of 3500/3000 down to 3000/2600, at least according to the CrystalDiskMark benchmarks I ran. I bought a SX8200 Pro on sale after the controller change to see, got one with the SM2262G controller and returned it after confirming that it is indeed slower than the S11 Pro I have. Of course, they could still have old stock of the S11 Pro (or didn't change it for that model), so YMMV
  8. Lian Li Lancool II Mesh Lian Li Lancool 215 Phanteks P400A or P500A Cooler Master TD500 Mesh Just a quick FYI. They started changing the controllers for that model to a slower one, from the SM2262ENG to the older SM2262G. Well, at least the SX8200 Pro's were changed, which is what the Gammix is, but with a heatsink, so I would be wary with them. the Inland Premium would be a better choice if the S11 Pro controller was changed (don't know until you get the drive and look at the controller)
  9. It's the same PSU, just non-modular. Hence why on the LTT List, the CM is in parentheses to note that both the Pure Power 11 and Pure Power 11 CM are the same thing (they do that for a few PSUs on the list). An alternative to it would be the Corsair TXM 650w for £80 (can be stylized as TX-m or TX650m), which I would recommend for both the quality customer service, the better build quality (it's tier A on the LTT list), and the 7 year warranty vs a 5 year warranty. I know the TXM 750w can handle a 3080, so the 650w version should be able to handle a 3060Ti
  10. The SDP-SS would show SDPXXX-SS on the label(replace XXX with the wattage). Pretty sure neither of the ones you shared are the same as it.
  11. That would be the one in Tier D labelled as "SDP 80+"
  12. Don't know what exactly Seasonic's policy on transferring warranties, but if you can get the original purchase receipt, I think you'll still have the warranty from date of original purchase. That being said, it depends on the price and what load that PSU has been under. Personally I would never buy a used PSU just because of that reason, but for others, it might not be a deal breaker.
  13. Throw it in the garbage personally. The only thing I would use it for is either a build that I don't care about losing, or use it in a low power draw build. Either that or sell it to get some money back.
  14. Without knowing the specs, it's kind of hard to recommend a PSU, but if the nephew is using a low budget build, and going by the price point you are looking at, something like the Apevia Prestige 600w is 54.99 on Amazon. Has a noisy fan though, and personally, I would recommend spending the $15 more for a 550w Corsair CX since it's better quality, and the customer service is pretty good.
  15. While I wouldn't use it for a 3070 personally, it should be fine. I think you might've seen the tier list back when there was a B+ tier. They changed it since then. All S and A tier were merged to a single A tier, B+ became B tier, B tier became C, and, C and D were merged I think (if Luke or someone else could correct me on that, please do so)
  16. No you don't? The Lancool 215 can fit ATX mobos
  17. https://www.microcenter.com/product/627504/lian-li-lancool-215-tempered-glass-eatx-full-tower-computer-case---black Same price as the h510 but better airflow
  18. Perfectly fine then. Its just a Seasonic Focus GX rebranded
  19. Which one? The C and E series are fine, E being better than C. It's the old HALE series should be avoided. Basically any recent NZXT PSU is fine and their CS isn't bad. Just depends on the price compared to other PSUs in the same range
  20. For the G3, they use the exact same cables, but usually you should use the cables that come with it. That said, you should be fine reusing the existing cables.
  21. From what I can tell, the RAW II VRAM runs very hot, at least for the RX 5700/5700XT versions. They don't have a thermal pad over some of the VRAMs and instead have a steel plate from what I recall. All you need is the add a thermal pad there and temps are a lot better.
  22. Don't see any card like that? I see AMD 57XX MSI Evoke and Mech, and XFX Thicc II and Raw II in Tier A (after fix) and Tier C (before fix). And that has to do with bad thermal pads in MSI case, and stupid unnecessary plastic causing higher temps with the XFX thicc
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