Jason 57

I have this case for my sons PC, its a nice case with good airflow
 
currently running
Ryzen R5 3600
Nvidia 3060 Ti
 
and it fine

I'm not sure of what I will recommend for you because I don't know your budget but I will write some of them and I cant find in the link you provided maybe you can search in other shops you know 
TD500mesh, lian li lancool II mesh, corsair 4000d or 5000d airflow ,H500p mesh ,275r airflow , deepcool matrexx 55 mesh 
 
these are from the link that you provided although not sure
-https://imart.ge/კომპიუტერის-ქეისი-cooler-master-masterbox-mb320l-argb-black/
-https://imart.ge/კომპიუტერის-ქეისი-cooler-master-masterbox-k501l-rgb-black/
-https://imart.ge/thermaltake-v250-tg-argb-black-win-spcc-tempered-glass1-120-mm-argb-fans3-120-mm-fan/
 

What hardware you putting in it? You should look at the Phanteks P300a.. amazing little compact ATX case. I just finished transplanting my wife's machine into one. 
 
 

I had to use corsair iCUE for my Dark Core SE RGB mouse, and I had corsair RAM, so I figured I would standardise on corsair iCUE. 
I've ordered a K70 keyboard, because I wanted a wireless mechanical RGB, but it turns out the Corsair wireless keyboards aren't addressable while on wireless.
I can control the RGB via the streamdeck.
The RGB around the CPU is a strip, because the CPU block didn't have addressable RGB, and that's just not good enough!
I'm using an SP120 kit with three fans, and two Arduinos programmed to pretend to be Corsair Link pros. The additional benefit here is that you can adjust them to address more LEDs than they do normally (normal limit is 60)
I have a secondary power supply under the desk which powers the amp/dac/desk LEDs, as well as various other bits and pieces.
The headphone stand is a cheap one I got off ebay that had crappy metal poles, so I swapped them out for some carbon fibre ones I had lying around. I added the LED ring.
 
The bias lighting on the monitor is run by ambiled, so I wrote a script to copy the LED settings from a device to ambiled, using the API of both. I found that with a 10hz refresh rate, it was stilted, but a 20hz rate was smooth. More than 20hz I think was overflowing the serial connection and I ended up with garbage.
 
upgrades that will happen shortly are Lian Li O11 dynamic which I'll move to with a partial soft tube loop, before buying a distro plate and other bits and pieces to make the hard line loop look amazing. I only recently went custom loop watercooling, after my second Antec AIO failure (replaced under warranty and failed within a few weeks).

https://gist.github.com/hrdwrbob/01ba8ea1e97eb2e7aaea66e5422c40cf my code
 
https://github.com/Legion2/CorsairLightingProtocol corsair arduino
 
https://github.com/CorsairOfficial/cue-sdk-python CUE SDK.
 
 
https://github.com/owenb321/DirectLight code I based my lightpack.py on - this has bugs and won't work, I should fork it.
 
 
 
 

its push pull > pull> push maybe a degree from each other. and ya pull looked cleaner but people like to show of there rgb so if its in the front it probably going to be push and if its at the top its probably going to be push. at the bottom it will most likely be pull
 
adding an shroud could posably get another degree and make he fans quieter as there not right up agents the rad. but its not worth buying the shrouds if there like $12-$15 each. i got these off ebay for $2.50 each and can push 4x 5mm leds in it. so i had them laying around so why not and also you need to buy longer screws and a psabliaty to having hem too long an puncher your rad...
 
 

Put it in the front of the case, and put the fans in front of the rad so you can see your pretty RGBs.

Many m.2s have free cloning software.
Check the manufacturers web site.
 
It's an exact copy and will be as "reliable" as the original.
 

Quick update. Unit does indeed show real time wattage pulled from the wall, just had to use the up/down buttons to find it. 240-242W. Much happier with my purchase now that I figured it out. 

That is why I got the Lancool II Mesh Performance instead of the RGB model. LOL

I did that.  It’s actually because there’s a special fix you have to download for the Lian Li software when Mystic Light prevents it from working.
 
Now, of course, I can’t figure out how to keep my settings after shutting down.  The RAM and the fans just go to the default rainbow wave when I boot up after shut down.
 
EDIT: And apparently that fix didn’t stick and I again can’t control the fans.  RGB is a bigger waste of time than it is money.

Couldn't help but notice that you applied all 4 screws to your CPU cooler. This is incredibly dangerous as it can lead to too much pressure being applied to your CPU. Best practise is to leave one screw off to ensure it works properly. I saw it in a build guide video I watched...


 
/sarcasm

not enough thermal paste...

I knew I'd get one of these comments so thats why I posted it  

You'll likely want something with a side mount fan option like the Cougar MX 331 Mesh-X.
 
I have two 1070ti's stacked on top of each other in a Level 10 GT (which also has a side mounted fan) and temps are solid despite running 24/7

other then the front airflow its fine if your ok with it then go for it.

Update: The Exhaust cable is completely gone. But i dont know if its safe. I hid it under the cooler of the VRAM's should i use it like this?

I am new to really using forums so I posted this in the wrong spot.  Figured the case mod section may get a kick out of this.  This is an old PC case I modded and thought people would get a kick out of it.  
 
So I recently got the bug to rebuild an old PC I had at the house.  I used a case I bought in college but made some tweaks this time around.  It is an older midtower, shaped like a cat.  Took the 5.25" drives out and 3D printed a fan holder with fins to direct the airflow across the CPU.  Also modded the existing fan spots to hold 120mm fans where it was designed for 80mm or a weird size not quite 100mm.  I turned the 3.5" floppy drive into a remote holder for the RGB fans, the eject button shoots the remote out into your hand. It has filters on all the in fans as well as the side vents to help keep the inside clean this time around.  
 
The teeth are replaceable with an easy to print insert, so we can change out the mouth at any time.  Thinking the next set will have more of a cartoon feel.  
 
 
This case has had its guts replaced 3 times since 2001 when it was originally bought. I think it is fun to make some old, new again.  Let me know your thoughts.  





 

*** Thread locked ***
 
Sadly, this isn't very productive content and will eventually turn into people posting fantasy builds.
 
If you want to show off your current setup, please use appropriate megathread:
 
If you are planning or upgrading build, please post thread in to correct subforum https://linustechtips.com/forum/18-new-builds-and-planning/
Also note:
 

Linus was on vacation and we went full nerd.
 
More about VRMs: https://youtu.be/oDRHV3qtSWc
More about Memory Topology: https://youtu.be/3vQwGGbW1AE
 
Buy AMD X570 Motherboards:
On Amazon (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/9Agc
On Newegg (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/XZGR
On B&H (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/5Doxt
 
Buy Intel Z590 Motherboards:
On Amazon (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/Ym2F
On Newegg (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/Pr5V
On B&H (PAID LINK): https://geni.us/9OyWS
Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group
 
 

WHY WASN'T I NOTIFIED

Actually was there a last one, and was I already in said last one, I vaguely remember someone reviewing my set up relatively recently...**Actually i think that was Jayztwocents

Otherwise you need to actually let me know so I can win the competition.

Hi, I'm Meherwaan Sayyed!!!
 
OH. MY. GOD. I did not expect to get mentioned in the video, nor did I expect Linus asking me to reach out!!! I've been trying to get at least a 3070 to no avail 😅
 
Thank you so much Linus!!!
 
I've DM'ed you on the forums, and I've also replied to the video tweet here:
Thank you so much!!!

 

The brilliant Sound Blaster Live ct4830 from 1999 working on windows 10

Not sure I agree with the conclusion.  
 
The best way to get into building your own PC is to start with a pre built ... then upgrade the parts as time goes on.  

Say you buy a standard HP pre built with a Ryzen 4000 APU  and one expansion slot.  This gives you a known working state to start from.  Then over time you acquire a dGPU when the price is reasonable.  Then you get a Ryzen 5950X when they are more available.  

The whole time you have a working computer, and if you break one of the parts you get you have a working state you can return to.   The hard part of building your own PC right now is the utter impossibility of finding a dGPU at a reasonable price AND the lack of an available and up to date APU.  
 
PLUS if you do break something most manufacturers will restore it to the working state it was when when they sold it to you.  At least that was my experience. 
 
First thing I did that resembled "building" a PC was adding a "blazing fast" 2400 bps Modem to my Tandy 1000 RL so I could use PCLink (AOL before it was AOL) CompuServe, Prodigy, then the internet before the World Wide Web. (They aren't identically the same thing you know).   Second thing was 4-5 years latter on a Tandy sensation 2 upgrading the Intel 486 SX to  AMD  AM5x86 or AM6x86 processor back when they had the same socket and heat sinks were either passive or not needed at all. 

After that experience I was able to buy a bare bones PC and slap together my next computer and put Linux on it around the turn of the century. 

TLDR buy a pre built learn how to take it apart and put it together and have it still work, learn how to add things to it.  Then putting a computer together will be a snap.  You'll also retain the knowledge longer. 

But look how much fun she's having

Ended up doing exactly this, marked the area with a marker and sawed it off
andd that was it.