Jump to content

Skynetbeta

Member
  • Posts

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Engineer Specialized in Additive Manufacturing

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-3960X
  • Motherboard
    ASUS P9X79
  • RAM
    CORSAIR XMS 64GB DDR3
  • GPU
    GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-6696-KR X2
  • Case
    Cooler Master Cosmos II
  • Storage
    Seagate ST3000DM001 3TB X2, WD5001FZWX X2, WD60EZRZ X2, WDS500G1B0A X2
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500
  • Display(s)
    ASUS PB277Q 27" X3
  • Cooling
    CORSAIR Hydro Series H100
  • Keyboard
    G.SKILL RIPJAWS KM780
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Logitech G533 Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 7

Recent Profile Visitors

281 profile views

Skynetbeta's Achievements

  1. Find a mouse to use as a base and disassemble it. Use a Plastalina Modeling Clay to sculpt a custom surface for your hand. Take your sculpt and create a silicone mold then use the mold to cast a shell out of a urethane or epoxy. Attach the shell to your mouse and reassemble now you have a custom mouse and a mold should you need to recast in the future.
  2. SLA printing water cooling components is possible . You need to make sure that your part is fully cured and that your resin is non reactive once cured. I would suggest a resin rated for food or medical use. In regards to FDM printing of water cooling components both material and post processing is key. I have have gotten the best results when printing in nylon carbon fiber. The key is to print with 3 mm thick walls and in an orientation to prevent shearing of the layers. After printing infiltrate your parts with a low viscosity epoxy resin and sand to your final dimensions. Alternatively if neither of the above methods is available to you simply print out of your material of choice then make a silicone mold. Once you have your mold you can cast out of a clear resin or urethane. Casting your parts also allows you to add thermal additives making the fabrication of heat-sinks possible.
  3. I would suggest using a 3D print to create a silicone mold then casting your fixtures out of a temperature resistant epoxy. ex https://www.smooth-on.com/products/epoxacast-670/
×