werto165

Basically I want to install TMC 2130 drivers because of their capability to make your printer so much quieter. The only problem is is that I installed marlin onto my board almost a year ago and I've lost the configuration.h files and I remember at the time I change quiet a lot. Is there a way to upload the firmware to see what changes I made to the code?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-3-6mm-Metal-Amplifying-Diameter-Zoom-Optical-Iris-Diaphragm-Aperture-Condenser-with-8-Blades-for/32793052964.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.52.559d9800hHTyRh&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10344_10130_10068_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10548_10341_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10615_10307_10301_10303_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_36,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=8e15dd38-bc32-41d8-a65b-3007c320cd79-8&algo_pvid=8e15dd38-bc32-41d8-a65b-3007c320cd79&priceBeautifyAB=1 I was just trying to find an iris mechanism that has the capability to go down to possibly 0.1mm min diameter, this is for having a laser module such as this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SWMAKER-MUVE-1-UV-SLA-3D-printer-parts-DIY-50mW-Laser-405nm-wavelength/32809148986.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.2.2bbbdba5DI4jO7&traffic_analysisId=recommend_3035_1_83054_iswinstore&scm=1007.13338.83054.0&pvid=6b34bd87-21b6-4142-82eb-7abe3091919f&tpp=1 with the smallest possible spot size.

I can change my core voltage, power limit, core clock but not my memory clock. my memory is running at 3005 MHz. Whever I input a value for the offset for the memory clock it just changes it back to 0? any ideas on what I need to do to make it work?

Sorry I've taken so long to reply been occupied with other things. But I don't think I'd be able to do it anymore my printer died a couple of days ago (the PSU keeps overheating..) but if you're patient I could do it in the new year probably late january however, as I'm at home currently and my printer is at uni it's a tad awkward. and I'll be prioritising my work for uni first. I would have to see the print time by placing the relevant parts in the slicer and account for the build time too, just message me again next month if you still want it making

I'll make you one for a price. it'd have to be in the UK though.

I used an old xbox PSU for my 3d printer that draws probably 100W or so. certainly a cheap option but not a quiet one I can tell you that.

Well I've bought things off gearbest from china before and I had to pay I think it was like £20 to get it from the post office which I guess is probably on gearbest for not being transparent about that?

Do you not need to pay import fees ?

something like a voltage divider?

sorry for the facebook link but it does look like linus quite a lot... The mannerisms are uncanny

Can't go wrong with ducky. I have the shine 4 and it's being going strong for a good two-three years now. Haven't really looked recently for keyboard so I'm not really sure what's good out of those but the ducky one looks nice, the smaller bezel looks nice. Kinda what I hate about mine tbh.

Haven't decided whether it's going to be top down or bottom up yet. But ideally I think that top down would be easier but there's a possiblity that I might be using a galvanometer to compare so I think that a bottom up would be better. Essentially I need to design the mount that attaches the probe to the XY and then I'll have a stage attached to the Z axis perhaps design the vat too, haven't really looked that deeply into as the project doesn't officially kick off until 29th Jan.

Basically my 3rd year uni project is to change an existing FDM printer gantry to an SLA printer. I would use a galvanometer based system however the requirements permit that a standard XY gantry to be used. I was researching online to try and find a suitable laser diode, basically it's unanimous that a 405nm laser will work fine, I'm not entirely sure on the power, but I assumed the higher the power the faster the cure time = better in every way.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Focusable-405nm-100mW-Violet-Blue-Laser-Diode-Module-12V-w-TTL-450nm-Goggles-/322440424229 I've come across this and wondering if it's suitable for control with a RAMPS 1.4 board? Also, I'm trying to find a laser with the smallest possible spot size, however I can rarely find information about the spot size, I assume it's to do with the lens rather than the laser itself but if you could find something with a spot size smaller than 300um that would be really useful. I was also wondering if something like this would be possible like the guy outlined in this post: https://laserpointerforums.com/f49/even-smaller-spot-size-using-mask-89357.html Cheers.

Standard FDM printers usually use a drive gear and an idler to feed filament through a system that uses conduction to heat up the plastic before being extruded. This is where the new technology from MIT differs, it's utilizing textured filament so that a screw mechanism can grip onto the filament and drive the filament with much greater forces without the "extruder skipping" and making use of a laser to melt this plastic, that's one issue inherent with normal conduction based heating is that there isn't enough heat transfer to have a flow rate high enough needed for fast 3d printing. This seems like a good application of the technology, I'm not that sure what sort of medicine things require printing that fast as I've only really ever heard of the use of 3d printing using SLM or similar methods for titanium joints which this obviously isn't doing. " I've had issues in the past when printing particular materials most notably PETG, where if you try and print fast the previous layer will still be above its glass transition temperature and this makes printing complex geometries fast difficult as most of the detail will be lost to "smushing", using high fan speeds certainly helps but only to a point if the cooling rate is too high the layer bondage becomes an issue. I'm sure this is something they'll experience if they move to different materials, I don't think it actually states what material they are currently using however. If you don't care about all that just watch this video http://news.mit.edu/2017/new-3-d-printer-10-times-faster-commercial-counterparts-1129 This technology combined with this: https://3dprint.com/193133/algorithm-speeds-3d-printing/ could be a force to be reckoned with.

I use modpodge and glass partly because I'm using PETG now and I don't like having my bed too warm as the energy bills soar if you have the bed at 70oC compared to like 40oC. I wouldn't get buildtak personally I just love the bottom layer that glass can give you.

Depending on the printer being used/settings you should have a 0.2mm + (0.4-0.6mm for the worse printers/not properly calibrated ones out there) offset with parts that interface with each other. Make sure that that tab ( i think that's what that is ) doesn't move too much(with multiple insertions) as it could be likely to fail at that part possibly. Possibly have a taper for the interfacing parts?

it's pointless if you've got really high frames but there's a workable range where it works best, depending on the monitor. usually 40-144? I think.