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ve4grm

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  1. Switched the fan to "CPU_OPT" header - issue went away for a bit, then came back, then away again after a while? So it feels like it's the fan itself. Probably just going to replace it, then, unless someone has a better suggestion. EDIT: Never mind, after some up close investigation, it turns out it was actually one of the case fans right beside the CPU fan, not the CPU fan itself. Unplugged it, still have 2 intake fans. All done.
  2. So we had a power outage yesterday, and when I got home and turned on my PC the CPU fan was locked at about 1700 rpm (checked in HWinfo) and sounded like it was trying to tear itself off the cooler. (212 Evo LED version, with the fan that came with it.) I rebooted, no change. Rebooted into bios to check if the fan curve got messed up, and it settled down to normal... for about 5 hours. Around midnight, it revved itself back up to 1700 again. I turned off the computer for the night rather than try more to fix it then. Throughout this all, the CPU temp was reporting reasonable, and I did absolutely nothing that would subject it to any significant loads. (just browsing and watching videos) Does anyone have any thoughts? Troubleshooting steps? Seen this before? I could replace the fan/cooler? But I don't know if that would do anything or the issue would remain. I could swap the fan to a different connector? All the fan connectors on my board can be assigned curves based on the CPU temp in the bios, so I'll probably try this tonight unless someone tells me why I shouldn't. Anything else? System info: Win 10 64 bit Ryzen 5600x RTX 3060 16GB DDR4, I think 3200 MHz? 650 watt power supply Nothing overclocked except RAM profile If anything more is needed, let me know.
  3. Interesting. I don't remember whether it's on a static IP, but I'll check it. It is on a different subnet, so that part should be fine. (modem uses 192.168.1.x, router uses 192.168.100.x) Thanks!
  4. Shaw proves a gateway. I'll explore if it has a passthrough mode, but I don't think so. Regardless, I don't really expect it's causing my issues, since it only ever affects one or two devices at a time, and all other devices connected to the router have connection just fine. The only ethernet run I'd be questioning the integrity of is the SW corner of the living room (TV, where the Xbox and steam link live) so I'll look into checking that. The cable tester is probably something I should have picked up when I first started making my own cables anyways. But all the other issues have been on Wifi, which doesn't attach to that run. Thank you for the recommendation! We're doing a bit more testing before we purchase anything, but I'll take it into account.
  5. ISP speeds are 600Mbps from Shaw. Floor plan, see attached. It's not 100% accurate, but close enough. ETH in blue is current ethernet connections. It's easy enough to run others. There's a central switch in the utility room, and 2 wireless routers (D-link DIR-850L) on either side of the house, one on the main floor and one in the basement. The routers don't technically have AP modes, but I have configured the downstairs one to send all DHCP to the upstairs in order to act as an AP. They have the same SSID on different channels. Signal from the main router is about -30 to -40 in the living room, drops to -50/-60 in the bedrooms/office. Serviceable. Drops to -60/-70 in the basement right beside the stairs, -80/-90 on the other end of the basement, where the second router is. Signal from second router is around -40/-50 right beside it for some reason, then similar dropoffs. My thought was to place a single main AP at the office ethernet jack, to replace both of the current ones. (Main router would need to stay in the living room, but with the wifi turned off so it doesn't cause interference.) Coverage isn't the issue per se. The issue is more that the wifi will often connect, but claim there is no internet, despite all other wifi devices working fine and all ethernet connections doing just fine. This happens every couple days lately with our android phones, and on rare occasions with my work laptop. Router needs to be reset for it to fix itself. Also, some of the not-always-on ethernet devices has similar issues connecting once turned on. Specifically Xbox and steam link sometimes just claim the network doesn't exist, despite being hard wired (admittedly through 2 switches before it gets back to the router, but still.) It's enough different devices with the same/similar issues that I'm 99% sure it's the router, and it's gotten worse over time. As such, I'm kind of just fed up with these routers and looking for a new setup.
  6. I've considered the discrete APs, but I don't really know what to get or where to get them. If you have recommendations, they are welcome. As for PoE, my switch (in the basement) isn't PoE at the moment, and I can easily place things beside outlets so it isn't required. But I'd be willing to consider it. I'm currently using 5GHz AC. The interior is mostly plaster, with some drywall in rooms that were redone more recently. Current setup is 1 router one end of the upstairs, and a second on the opposite end of the basement. Signal from my upstairs router (with just internal antennas) drops to about -60 dbm just by going downstairs on the same end of the house, and -80/-90 on the other side of the basement. House is fairly linear, one hall with rooms off it. Now that the ethernet is run, placing an AP in the center of the house is fully possible as well.
  7. After a few years and no end of trouble with my current D-link router setup (unstable wifi, poor range, dropped signal, device connected but says no internet connection, etc) I'm biting the bullet and getting a new one. But I need advice. - I don't want to spend more than about $150 CAD - I want to set it up as an AP in the center of my house, using the old router for the base wired network (it's always been fine with wired connections, just wifi was crap). There is an ethernet connection there already. - I have a 1 story house, about 1200 sq ft. It needs to have enough power to provide solid connection in the basement. Back yard would be nice as well. In my price range, I have found a few router options. - ASUS RT-AC65 -- AC1750 - Linksys EA7300-CA -- AC1750 - Netgear R6350-100CNS -- AC1750 - ASUS RT-AX55 -- AX1800 - Linksys E7350 -- AX1800 - TP-Link AX20 -- AX1800 I'm looking for info on brands and reliability, and which of the above support AP mode (it's incredibly hard to tell). Is it worth spending a little more for Wifi 6? All my current devices are Wifi 5, but I expect when I get my next phone it will support 6. What about spending the same as the Wifi 6 models for AC1900? And if anyone has suggestions for dedicated APs, I'd appreciate that as well. Thanks so much!
  8. Alright, so what I'm seeing here is that I'm not crazy, though. If I can wait, I probably should. If I can afford an extra $500, then this is an option. Fair?
  9. True that the CPU isn't exactly the same. I would have grabbed one with a 3600, but the only one they have with that is $400 more than the one I posted. CPU cooler - 3600 comes with that, I believe, and I see no real reason to upgrade given what I've heard. Windows key is fair, but I don't need a new one so... I'm also now realizing that tarifs might come into play here, since a lot of these SI's offering prebuilts are probably in the states.
  10. Budget (including currency): Not a factor for this. I know the main things I want, and am trying to figure out how not to completely overpay for everything. Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, Fusion 360, Civil 3D So, I've been looking to upgrade since late 2019/early 2020, and it's just been the worst timing as we all know. Spent a lot of time waiting for the next gen cards and CPUs, then waiting for all this to blow over, etc. And now the advice seems to be to look at prebuilts. I know prebuilts tend to be a couple hundred over the base parts, covering assembly and warranty and such, but my numbers aren't adding up. I'm running 1080p 144hz, and looking for something with a 3070 or 3060ti to cover those frame rates reliably for a while. I find things like this ($CAD) Then I go on PC Part Picker, and price out everything but the GPU: Plus maybe $800 for an MSRP RTX 3070, would make this around $1550-1600. With a roughly equivalent AMD CPU, faster RAM, and a 2TB HDD. Am I missing something important in my build? Or is the Prebuilt Tax really $600 CAD right now? My situation is such that I'm only kind of hurting for the upgrade. I'm running a GTX 970, so I'm still alright most of the time and I can probably wait for the market (or a lucky GPU drop) if I need to, hence wanting to compare to an MSRP GPU. But these prices are confusing me. Thanks.
  11. Yeah, unfrotunately they're in the same boat as Canada Computers. No stock, due to being a retail outlet first and foremost.
  12. Can anyone point me towards reliable system builders for Canada? People like IBuyPower or MainGear, but Canadian or with good Canadian shipping. I've been looking towards building my wife and myself new systems, but with stock and prices as they are, I want to look into builders since they may have an easier time getting stock in. But most are US-centric. Thanks!
  13. Oh, no I get that. I just don't know what of my devices it might be for.
  14. Interesting thought. I'm not sure what it would be for, but I'd believe it.
  15. Hi all, I've been going through my old electronics detritus lately, and happened to come across this: The connector is a standard-looking 3.5mm, and the right end is a smooth, shiny plastic dome. On the other side of the dome is some 3M adhesive. And I have no idea what it is. I tried it in both the microphone and headphone jacks on my computer with no results. Any ideas?
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