Fumferknuckle

Man, I posted late in the morning and you guys were on top of it. If I were to ever try anything I'd definitely be wearing a bunch of safety stuff. I don't even have a soldering iron so all the information provided so far is really useful just understanding what is possible. If a decent welder wasn't expensive I would own one for sure and do all kinds of stuff just for fun. Maybe there are cheap ones that would work for this but I'm not too informed on welders either. I think laptops are fun to mod though. Or just take apart in most of my experience. I thought thermal pads could work to stick stuff together but wasn't sure how good the heat transfer would be. I'd assume good enough if gpus use them. Thanks everyone for the input.

Alright guys, you know the drill. I post a dumb, ridiculous question that has probably been answered and then I feel like a fool, but here's another "is this a thing", er, thing. Can you use a soldering iron (like a larger one) or some type of soldering method I guess, to connect multiple pieces of copper and stuff together? Basically, can you solder stuff like laptop heat pipes, small fin assemblies (likely connected to those wimpy pipes, maybe a fan), to make a larger heat sink? I would take the aforementioned laptop heat pipes and solder them to a small block of copper cut to a decent size to cover the cpu (if cannibalizing a gpu air heat sink wasn't possible) and just SOMEHOW getting it all together. Even if it was ugly, I don't care. It's all for shiggles and gets to me. I wouldn't try to mount it to a laptop or am trying to improve a laptops thermals/performance. I just wanna mod me up a heat sink for the hell of it, maybe create a rad heat sink that could maybe later be upgraded with water cooling for a custom pc; custom sound dampened enclosure, just a sweet custom rig. I couldn't find really anything on this topic, or know how to google it best. I doubt using torch solder for connecting pipes would work, would damage the components. I thought maybe you could connect flat surfaces and "weld" a nice rim around the two pieces, basically weld it together best you can and hope the heat transfers well. I don't think the solder would soften during heavy loads and disconnect or whatever. And with a good, powerful soldering iron you wouldn't have to heat the metal I would think. I don't know obviously, about any of this stuff. So any friendly advice or knowledge would be awesome! Also before I end the post, I can post pictures of some hardware I had thoughts of connecting together, or pictures of stuff I think would work well; I guess now that I think about it, this question gets more and more into is custom air cooling possible? I've seen videos by people like DIY Perks that make me inspired to try stuff, so I've been dismantling decommissioned gear, mostly a couple computers in hopes to use them in a future project. I think a custom cooler would be fun. PS. I just want to reiterate I know this is a terrible idea and wouldn't use this on my main computer, I figure it must be too hard or not possible seeing no posts on it so maybe it's common sense it is out of reach but I'm hoping someone knows whether it is safe and possible to try it. Thanks!

How is the camera? Mostly talking stills and video (stabilization is my biggest thing with video, not clarity). My current OP1 has focusing issues and has begun to stutter and slow down a lot recently. Apparently OnePlus is about to announce a new device.

Seems everyone is a bit divided on what phone I should choose. I love my current OnePlus One, but it is definitely showing age. It's been a tank for me, with little to no problems. I'm so interested in the Axon 7 for the speakers, camera, screen, and DAC. I'm interested in the OP3 for the speed, clean OS, and camera. I also just like OnePlus. If any Axon 7 owners/users can give me an overview of how the software is today (bugs, experience, things you like/dislike) I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts. The phones seem pretty equal, besides the 7 having that 2k display and loud stereo speakers, 2 features I am intrigued about. From my Amazon searching (I have tons of gift card money so..) it seems both phones are going to be relatively equally priced. So it's basically going to come down to which software I'd rather use and if I'd rather have speakers/display then clean OS and 2 extra gigs of RAM. I like expandable storage too, as I use my OPO for lots of video work. For any Axon 7 users, again, how is the software, and most importantly at this point, how is the CAMERA, TODAY. I know it's pretty close to the OP3 (reviews from launch) but if updates and tweaks have made the stabilization and general software and shooting experience better. If they fixed how glitchy shooting video was, I may go for something different and go with the Axon 7. Let me thank everyone for taking the time to help aide my decision in picking my next device. It's truly a tough choice, phones now a day's are so great it's the little details that sway me one way or the other.

Okay guys, I'm opening this discussion back up after MWC has happened about a week ago. My question mostly still remains, but with some twists. What would YOU buy with around $500 max? Preferably 400 or less. I say $500 because I would totally buy a LG G6 for that, but I read $700+. I would also buy the newly announced Sony Xperia XZ (Premium is included in the name I believe. Stupid name) for the features like 4k display (stupid I know), 960fps slow motion, CAMERA (huge feature for me), and speakers. Plus IP68 like the G6. I'm still looking at an Axon 7 though. I was reading about the new Moto whatever, but the screen and processor had me skeptical. I think that was the phone with the same Sony sensor used in the Google Pixel however. Let me know what you think.

Does anyone else think it is the RAM? I'd hate to have replace all 16 gigs, and I haven't been able to find a pair of sticks lying around that fits in the dimm slots on the board just to test it (the gap is more near the center instead of off to the side). Honestly I'm undecided on whether I think it's the RAM. I figure, if something was wrong with it, then I'd have much larger problems (no boots, error messages, immediate shut down ect). Both the bios and Windows verifies that the memory is there and working, and when I open a few chrome tabs it's starts using it and all is okay. It's just when that flicker happens, like a different driver gets enabled, that it freezes the screen. It could be my Windows 10 install media, but again I figure I'd be having other problems instead of the multiple successful installs, even on a different drive. Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated.

I'm kinda worried it's a more main component. I found another good HDD so I'm giving that a go, hopefully it won't give me problems. EDIT: Well. Bad news I guess. I successfully reinstalled Windows 10 to a new drive, am able to do the same things I can with the last drive. However, I still get the freeze after 5-10 minutes of on time. I'm going to assume that it's the RAM. Which is very unfortunate. I'm going to look for another kit and if it solves the problem then I'll replace the 16gigs with another 16gigs. What a pain this has turned out to be.

Hey guys, Fumferknuckle again. (TLDR at bottom) So, I have a Sager NP9170 I've owned for a few years, with a i7 36something or similar AND the Infamous 7970m.. It's given me problems, like 3 failed HDDs, driver issues, glitches/bugs, and screen dots/lines being discolored or bugged in red/blue/green flashing in some games. My real question is about the Hard drive I believe. I recently got Windows 10 to install on a new (used drive) HDD (WD of course) and installed Windows 10 Educational (I dislike Cortana and it's free, I'm a student) and I was stoked I got it working. But I now have a PROBLEM - - > where the screen flickers once after about 5-10 minutes of on time (idle or doing any type of work) like a graphic driver updating, then a few seconds later it freezes. No error message, no blue screen, it literally just freezes. No mouse movement, no ctr+alt+del, no Windows key. No animations or screen changes, just freezes entirely. I've Googled the problem for hours and have been messing with this for 3 days now. Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? I've tried all of these: -turning off Superfetch and Windows Search (had a very high disk usage, caused crashing, or so I thought) -doing multiple restores (I do them as soon as I could and when made progress, like checkpoints) -reinstalling Windows multiple times (at first the system would just freeze during boot, it would get past the splash screens, get past a please wait and get stuck on a black screen with spinny dot wheel) -safe mode with networking (it doesn't crash, but I can't install any Windows Updates, it just continuously loads but doesn't give me any options, the other tabs load. I know I need a handful of updates, maybe important ones that would fix this but can't get them installed fast enough.. (7970m and Intel HD 4000, other small ones) -other things related to Googling freeze after flicker, high disk usage, sager problems NOTE: so as I said, it doesn't freeze in Safe Mode w/ Net. It runs buttery smooth and the windows start menu runs good, however in regular boot it is sluggish and typing take between 15seconds to a minute for it to appear on Windows start menu, on YouTube it's fine. VERDICT: I can only assume the hard drive is bad. I'm going to try and get a hard drive and try installing on that but it's all I can think of at this point. Are any of you experienced with a problem similar, or know a solution? Perhaps you know if it's the HDD or motherboard? It's my secondary rig (my girlfriend uses it as her computer at home and we play minecraft/Sims ect, but I'd like to take it with me to college for video editing and work outside of the lab) so being that it's not my desktop it's not end of the world, but I paid good coin 2-3 years ago and would like to get it running smooth if I'm going to sell it to upgrade my fx 8300 to match the 980ti I have (then girlfriend can use 8300 and 960gpu for games ect), or if I just want to use it when away from the big rig. I apologize for the long post, not many ways to condense it. Any and all help would be appreciated. I can give more specs if needed. TLDR = HDD(?) keeps crashing/freezing after a screen flicker, tried multiple solutions (above) but can't fix it. Any help is appreciated. P.S. The only thing I have tried is the Windows event thing I read about. I'd have to safe mode network download it, which I'm going to try if a restore and immediate update doesn't fix it. At one point it wasn't crashing (1 time) so I downloaded steam and 1 small game, made a restore point, tried the game and it ran great but no audio (issue I've experienced but can't fix, a restart fixes it usually) so I restarted and it begun freezing again. Restore froze at spinny wheel every time. Thought I'd mention it. Thanks again.

Hmm. That's good information, thanks for the input. I can only imagine Asus software and updates. That's probably my biggest worry for the Axon, is updates and UI. From what I read though it has gotten better, including camera stabilization and such. I'm sure it's nothing like OnePlus though.

All great points. I didn't realize MWC was 2 weeks away. I guess I'll wait for that and see if at the least prices go down a bit. This is the first I'm hearing of the Zenfone 3 Zoom. On paper is sounds amazing, besides the 625 chip. But 5000mah battery and dual 12mp camera sounds promising. I wasn't too impressed with the leaked LG G6, and the S8 will likely be mega expensive again. To me, the most interesting phones are the ones $600 and less. Anything under $350-450 has a lot of my attention.

Hey guys, I'm going to be selling my OnePlus One Smartphone soon and am deciding which one I should replace it with. My budget is about $400 or so, but I'd rather keep it low. I am deciding between the OnePlus 3 and Axon 7 (the 3T doesn't seem worth $100+/- more for 400mah and 821 chip). From the general consensus, it seems most like the OP3 more for slightly better camera, more stock software, and a little snappier. I like the Axon 7 more for the just about identical camera quality, amazing speakers, display, and the dac. So my question is, which would you choose? I love my current OnePlus One, but the speakers, camera, and display are really pulling me to the Axon 7. And it does have a slightly larger battery than the 3 (not 3T I know). It seems the OP3 is a bit easier to grab right now, unless I choose the gold Axon 7 (ehhh...) and cheaper/same price when choosing the gray models on both smartphones. So basically, spend $350-400 for the Axon 7, or $350-400 for the OnePlus 3. Which do you pick? Thanks guys.

I use adobe premiere to take the ultrawide video to 16:9 video, that's about it. Using the h2.64 encoder.

Sorry mate, I'm not sure you understand what it is that I am asking. YouTube DEFINITELY does support 21:9 aspect ratio videos, as I have uploaded and viewed dozens of them. When uploading a 21:9 video, if you have an ultrawide monitor, it will fullscreen just as it should in the YouTube player. For 16:9 users, the ultrawide (21:9) video will have letterboxing on both the top and bottom of the video, whether in fullscreen mode or just windowed in the YouTube player. However, up until about 2 weeks ago, YouTube would take my native 21:9 (2560x1080) video that I had converted to 16:9 (1920x1080) and upload it so that I (ultrawide 21:9) could view it fullscreen with no letterboxing on my ultrawide, and it would also display fullscreen with NO letterboxing for my 16:9 viewers, whether in fullscreen mode or windowed. It seems either YouTube removed that functionality, or something glitched on my channel. I use the Anamorphic HD 1.333 ratio setting when exporting my native 2560x1080 video to convert it to 1920x1080 FULLSCREEN/NO BARS and it used to work. When I view the video on my phone by transferring it to my phone's gallery app, it plays on the entire screen with no black bars. The same exported file will also play on the entire screen on my 29" ultrawide screen with no black bars either. As soon as I upload it to YouTube though, it seems to upload it as if it is a native 2560x1080 (21:9) video, when in fact it is a 1920x1080p video (as explained with the phone, but also when you right click and go to properties of the video, it says the resolution is 1920x1080). So the question remains, does anyone know what could have caused the videos to upload as 21:9 or what I can do to export in proper 1080p so that 16:9 users don't get black bars? I'll even export it in a weird 720p (or barely better than 720p) if it means no black bars.

Here is piece of a strictly 1080p upload of some Fallout 4 gameplay I had planned on turning into something, for me it works as 16:9 1080p content should, with the player using all screen space when not in full screen mode, and letter boxing on the left and right when fullscreen because of my ultrawide display. My other videos fullscreen for me, and used to be able to display the 1080/16:9 as well as my 21:9 ratio without error, but no longer does it seems. I just don't get why it locks my videos into ultrawide when it has been converted to 16:9. At least 4:3 if the Animorphic HD setting works like the custom ratio option leads me to believe. Note that footage is just raw, no edits or didn't even watch it, just trying the aspect ratio. Seems native 1080 content works fine but converted stuff has trouble now unlike before.

Hmm, interesting. Thank you for the kind words. I've had one or two people tell me that they get no letterboxing, and many telling me they previously didn't but have in the past week, effecting all current/future uploads and past ones as well. It is an odd issue I can't find any documentation on either.

Hello all, thanks for stopping by. I am going to give a TL:DR now because I'll go more in depth then some may like so here is the basic issue and then for better details continue reading. TL:DR = I can't get my videos to work properly from 21:9 to 16:9 on YouTube anymore. I export in h2.64 with Premiere and could previously fullscreen in both aspect ratios in the YouTube player. No longer can I do that it seems. I can't figure out how to get just 16:9 to work either now coming from 21:9. Any tips? (the video is 1920x1080 after Premiere and looks fine on my phone, it's after YouTube that is breaks) I record gameplay of video games at 2560x1080 using shadowplay, as I think it has the best quality, best file size, ease of use, and least system demanding. I have had no problems editing with Adobe Premiere and uploading in 21:9. I didn't want to neglect the majority of viewers, so I used Premiere to convert to 1920x1080. It worked great up until a week or so ago when all of my videos converted to the 21:9 aspect ratio after I uploaded another video. I import in 2560x1080, 29fps, recommended bit rate ect. I export with a custom preset, using h2.64, but to get it to fullscreen properly with no letterboxing (black bars top and bottom) I use HD Anamorphic 1080 (1.333) Aspect setting. When exported, I can still fullscreen on my ultrawide, and when viewing on my phone (transfer over) or other 16:9 display it fullscreens too. However, when I upload it to YouTube, it no longer fills the 16:9 aspect ratio while simultaneously filling my ratio too, like it had in the past. I'd rather they be pure 16:9 then both if it means it will never be 16:9, it was a miracle it fullscreened properly for both ratios honestly when uploaded. That was as short as I could get it with being thorough and explaining the situation. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this, or to export properly? I prefer to have 1080p but will settle for 720p, but after over a dozen export trials on an Outlast 2 demo video I did, I can't for the life of me get it to be only 16:9, or resolve my issue to before. Here is a link to the Outlast 2 Demo video because I mentioned it above so you can understand what I mean. If you have a 21:9 display, it should fullscreen fine. But 16:9 users will have letterboxing. You can tell there is an issue immediately because without fullscreening, the YouTube player isn't using the all the space before you expand the window. There is letterboxing there too. It seemed to be when I uploaded a video that they all converted, even though it was the same format as previous ones. Note that this is in fact a 1920x1080 video, as confirmed when I look at the video properties, not 2560x1080 like the first part to the Amnesia AMFP I did. I appreciate any and all advice or thoughts on the topic, I wish YouTube hadn't thrown me this curve ball as even though my viewership is literally just my friends, I enjoy making videos more than I have been working on my major and seem to have a built in passion for film/photography that I'd like to pursue. I have contacted YouTube support at least twice, and the first time they said they had some people working on it but no ETA for a fix. I don't know if I can still believe that or not but would rather get an opinion from someone who's probably dealt with it more and has much more experience in what I'm trying to accomplish. Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Holy bananas you guys blew this thread up lol. Should have known an argument would have started on a LTT forum. So the census is to get the 980ti cause it's a good deal? I probably won't see a better deal? Also, I know the 8300 is definitely not the best choice, but my friend has a 4820k I can get for $140, I'm just looking for a motherboard that isn't as expensive as the 980ti.

Hello all. Thanks for reading my post and helping me decide my next card. I have found a like new MSI Armor 980ti for $285. Should I buy it? I was wondering if the prices were going to drop any with the 1060 release. I currently have a FX 8300 and Gtx 960 ssc and a 2560x1080 LG. What do you guys think? I'm about to fix my trucks clutch too so I'm trying to take advantage of a good deal and the Amazon gift card money I have to make the most of my money while getting as much performance as possible. Thanks for the help.

I understand that AMD lacks the shadowplay, that's why I was curious if I could rig it to work in tandem with the Nvidia card. All is well then. I'll have to give the raptr software a try if the 480 turns out to be as good as it appears it will be. Thanks for the info.

Hello all. I have a question that I sort of think I know the answer to, but not completely sure. I've watched the video where Linus had a Nvidia card and AMD card working together, I don't think they helped one another but they were functional in the same machine. My question is: could it be possible to keep my 960 and use it for shadowplay and maybe physX while I use the RX 480 for gaming purposes? It looks like it's going to be a wild upgrade compared to my 960, but I love shadowplay. Probably the best software I've used for recording my gameplay that doesn't use tons of storage, lose lots of image quality, and most importantly drain my frames. Would they play nicely together or would it not work at all? Thanks for the replies.

I love how this phone looks. Even without that amazing orange skin, the Z2 looks sophisticated and boss. And how could you not love how much quality dbrand's skins really are?

My favorite thing about the G3 is the amazing feel to the buttons on the back of the phone! And the screen is making me drool

Yes! Although like another user said, I could Google and spend tons of time looking for a bag that looks stylish and would hold everything I want, I'd rather watch a Linus video on it! Plus you could give tests on comfort, what it looks like filled completely up, try fitting a giant Alienware in them for posterity, ect. I would love to see a review on the Oakley Kitchen Sink Backpacks. They have always looked really nice to me, and seem like they could hold a ton! Albeit, they are expensive but you are paying for a premium product. Here is a link for reference: http://www.oakley.com/products/kitchen-sink-backpack/92060A-001