mcRYSHER

Hello, guys! So, recently I've been thinking about buying a UPS unit for my PC. I did some research and I am a bit confused because it appears that there are many to choose from and they seem to be very different from each other. So, what I need is a UPS that will give me couple of minutes to shut down my PC in case of electricity blackout. And that's it. My PC is 1200 watt PSU (CORSAIR HX1200i), Ryzen 3960x and a single 2080 Ti. Can you guys please recommend me some solid UPS that fits my need?

Did some tests in 3D mark. I guess it is good. I'd never used it actually before the White Ripper.

My Zyxel is on 5GHz mode with 802.11ac. It doesn't matter actually because I tested speed between router and my smartphone. It shows up to 490 mbps for download. So, the router is fine, I guess. I've been thinking about it. M.2 wifi is also seem to be a good thing. But both PCIe and M.2 wifi cards have mixed reviews. So, thats why I am curious what is the best hardware for PC that can easily provide stable 500+ mpbs if the router is like 9 feet away with no walls in between. Also, does anyone know how can I test connection speed between router and wifi adapter? I mean not an internet speed but just maximum speed these devices communicate with each other.

Currently I have Xiaomi 5GHz Router (R3G). On wire it shows up to 580mbps/sec. My PC wifi adapter is Zyxel nwd6605. It has USB 3.0 and one antenna. It provides me stable 250 mbps at the moment. So, only the half of the speed. My phone shows me up to 490 mbps/sec, so I guess the router is capable to work on these speeds. Seems like I need to buy a two antennas wifi adapter, right?

Hey, guys! Lets say my ISP provides me with 555 mbps/sec internet. This speed is stable with wire connection. I have a desktop PC. What hardware do I need to buy to have this 555 mbps on wifi? Is it even possible? Lets assume I will place gigabit 5GHz router in the same room, so there will be no obstacles for the signal. Lets also assume there is no other 5GHz wifi in the area.

ASUS support said:

I have brand new NZXT H710i. The paint on rivets is scratched. On the bottom I have scratches around one screw. On the backside one screw is missing in the cable management rack. The psu shroud is not detachable. Actually it is but you need to unrivet it and then rivet in back. I contacted NZXT support regarding one question about the case and they did not reply. Would not recommend NZXT for sure.

Finally received cables from @CableMod The parcel came from China. I am surprised. The track number worked fine all the way. Took about 2 weeks in total. That's how they pack cables now: Not too much for the 190$ order. I saw on youtube (summer 2019) there used to be a box and a some soft of certificate or whatever: However, the quality of the cables is A+. Very accurate and solid. Thanks, cable mod! Great job! The last thing to finish the project is a paint job. Need to paint extension brackets and RAM heatsinks. I ordered memory modding kit from Cable mod. Have to wait till the beginning of march to get hands on Grabber Green Rust-Oleum heat-resistant paint!

Found a good article. They testing my "type-of" usb drives. Every usb drive they tested shows around 15-25mbytes/sec write speed. Seems like my usb is operating normally for its class of devices. Ordered Corsair Voyager GTX 256GB.

Yeah, I do have those. I downloaded AMD chipset drivers directly from AMD. That needed in order to make Ryzen Master work.

Hello! So, recenty I've been trying to figure out why my usb 3.0 flash drive has very slow write speed I've been told that there is a feature called UASP and if my storage device support it will run faster. I launched CrystalDiskInfo to check if my 64gb Silicon Power C31 support UASP. But CrystalDisk does not see it. CrystalDiskMark does see it however. So, I went to Device manager to check Storage Controllers section: As far as I know there has to be something like "USB Attached SCSI (UAS) mass storage device". But I don't have it there. Next, in the Device Manager I looked the driver details about my USB flash drive: So, currently my 64gb USB drive runs under USBSTOR.sys. Which is slower and older than UASP. So, how to know if my motherboard support UASP? I have ASUS TRX40pro Prime. Every USB port it has is 3.1+ It is a very new one, so it has to support UASP, I guess. But I've been going through manual as well as googling and did not find any info about UASP in it. P.S. I downloaded AI suite 3 but it doesn't show any USB related info there.

Actually, I can't check it, because Crystaldisk info does not see the usb drive. Does anyone know why is that? Googling did not help much.

Thanks, man, will give it a try! Found a good video about usb drive technologies: https://youtu.be/0zr-rQ51Vbg

What do you guys think about Corsair Voyager GTX? It has much more positive reviews and tests show impressive results: Compare it to Sandisk Extreme Pro:

I have "up to 555 mbps" plan from my ISP. On wire between router and PC it does show around 500-580 mbps. The wifi signal is much slower though, even on 5 GHz it is like 50% slower. The absolute maximum I was able to get is 397mbps for download and 401 mbps for upload. (5GHZ wifi and 3.0 usb wifi adapter with single antenna) I've read some article that states that on high speed plans it is ok-ish to have 50-60% of the maximum speed provided by your ISP when you use WiFi. The article says it is true for high speed plans like 500+ mbps. There are many things that can slow down the signal from router to wifi adapter on your PC. You might get 80-90% of the speed under the perfect conditions but it would rarely happen. Like it is in my case. Of course if the ISP plan is like 100 mpbs and slower that you will most likely have stable 100 mbps almost all the time. This is just the information I wanted to share with others. Also, this topic seems interesting to me:

My MoBo is ASUS TRX40 Prime, so it does not have USB 2.0 ports. Every USB it has is 3.2. I'll probably go and buy SanDisk although there are mixed reviews about it on Amazon. Many complains that it dies within half a year... 64Gb Silicon Power Mobile C31, OTG, USB 3.1/Type-C, Black (80244413)

Kilrah, thanks for the message. Yeah, I've been googling a bit and looks like you're right. Some users say buying USB drives are like a lottery. Some USB 3.0 drives might be much faster than others. I didn't know much about that. So, can anyone else please confirm that I was just unlucky to buy crappy usb3.0 stick?

Thanks for advice, here are the results: I am not sure what these numbers show exactly. I guess, read speed is around 180 mbytes which is ok. Write speed sucks. Also, the usb drive was hot as hell during the test.

I've used both frontal and back ports. I have the same result. Johnny, is your speed is writing speed? I mean the speed you have when you copy file from PC to your USB drive? Over 100MBs is pretty damn good for writing speed!

Yeah, I mean USB 3.0 flash drive is not worth to buy because the difference with USB 2.0 is barely noticeable in real-world speeds Here is my writing speed. Just LOL.

So, I bought 64GB usb 3.1/type-c flash drive from SiliconPower. Plugged it into 3.2 usb port and tried to copy a single 2.4gb file to it... The writing speed is around 9-14 mbytes/sec. My old usb 2.0 flash drive has speed around 6-8 mbytes/sec. I googled and it seems like it is normal. Most people have more or less the same writing speed. My PC is Ryzen 3960x, PCIe Gen4 Corsair m.2 ssd. So, the bottlenecking is excluded. So, basically usb 3.0/3.1 flash drive writing speed is just a joke. As far as I understand there is no sense to buy USB 3.0+ flash drives because there is literally no difference in writing speeds compared to usb 2.0.

Hello, guys! I use router Xiaomi R3G. It has gigabit connection and supports 5GHz WiFi. I recently changed my ISP and now my internet connection speed is "up to 555 mbps". I did test with wire connection from router to PC and it showed around 580 mbps at Speedtest.net. Looks cool, doesn't it! However, I usually use WiFi adapter (USB 3.0 Zyxel NWD6605 802.11ac). So I plugged it into USB 3.2 port and connected to my 5GHz WiFi with no problem. The router is 9 feet away from PC. No walls in between. The router's dashboard does show the current internet speed as 555 mbps. WiFi adapter also seem to have correct connection and speed: When I run test at the Speedtest it shows much slower speed than the wire connection had. Most of the time I see around 200-250 mbps for both down and up. It is funny but my phone shows around 30% higher speed when I run Speedtest on it. But I use Speedtest's android app, so it might affect result, I suppose. So, the maximum WiFi speed on my PC I've been able to get at the Speedtest was 350-397 mbps download and 420 mbps upload. But most of the time I receive around 200-250 mbps like I mentioned above. So, the question is: Is it considered normal overall to have wireless internet connection speed around 50% slower than wire connection?

Here is mine:

Hello, guys! I've been a bit busy working on my pc to make everything as perfect as possible. It is not fully ready yet but I decided to show what has been going on so far. So I riveted the case. An advice I want to give - cover the surrounding area around rivet hole with masking tape. The rivet tool might tilt at the moment when it is cutting the tail of the installed rivet. So, you might damage the case with the tool. Here is the case, repainted and assembled. Look way much better than the default one. Everything is ready for the build! First thing I started with: M.2 Gen4 SSD heatsink removed. It is EXTREMELY HARD and DANGEROUS to remove the heatsink and not to damage the SSD. Be extremely careful. The tension is high on the brackets. Pay special attention to those brackets on the bottom part of the heatsink. Installing RYZEN 3960x. Very stressful procedure. At least for me. Mounting the pump inside the case: Drainage valve: Working with tubes. I wanted them to have sort of "artistic" look so they will not look boring. By the way I installed rad upside down so the drainage point is at the lowest point of the entire system: Pouring the liquid into the system: Like I said it is not ready yet. I am still waiting my custom cables from cable mod. And also, I need to paint extension brackets as well as PSU bracket. I bought green heat resistant spray from FOLIATEC but this is shitty paint spray so stay away from it. The spray's tip started to malfunction and stopped spraying in the middle of the painting process so I had to throw it away. It cost 30 bucks per can. The problem is that I painted half of the extension brackets so had to remove the paintjob. I used Dremel tool and it helped me to get rid of the paintjob. I have ordered Rust Oleum Grabber Green spray but it takes 60 days to deliver those to me. The cans can not be transported by the plane so it is a sea delivery. Foliatec paint: Paint removed: I covered it with primer and left it until I receive my Rust Oleum Grabber Green cans. THE PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE FACED WITH THE PC AND THEIR SOLUTIONS: 1. Upon first turn on the PC refused to boot and MoBo LED light showed "DRAM failure" Q-CODE showed "C6" error. I almost shitted in my pants when I saw that. The PC simply did not boot. So, nothing you can do. I tried to turn it on and off about 7-8 times until I finally saw BIOS screen. I entered BIOS and turned on D.O.C.P profile. That solved the problem right away. 2. All usb devices malfunctioning. Mouse stutters, keyboard glitches, usb WiFi drops the connection. MoBo ASUS TRX40 Pro Prime. Windows 10 pro. I tried a lot of things to fix this. I tried reinstall drivers, I switched power plan to max performance, I unchecked "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". Nothing helped. The solution is that you need to go to BIOS and set DISABLE to "Global C State Control". That is the fix. 3. Installed Ryzen Master and AMD chipset drivers. Ryzen Master failed to initialize. Internet connection became 4 times slower. I have usb Wifi adapter TP LINK T2UH. After installing AMD chipset drivers I noticed my internet became significantly slow. The solution is this: I unplugged usb Wifi adapter and plugged it into the other USB port. It solved the issue. If you unplug and plug the adapter in the same port it will work as well but it will slow the internet again after the next boot. I managed to make Ryzen Master work by installing it under the Administrator account. I googled how to create this account. More updates to come within next two weeks. Thanks for reading! P.S. Some numbers: 3Dmark showed 13200 score. Something close to this was in Cinebench R20. In Blender I rendered the Barbershop scene under 5 minutes. Interesting is that Premiere Pro uses both CPU and GPU when rendering and so it does not load CPU for 100%. I managed to to force it to use 100% of the CPU by assign render to Adobe Media Encoder. 13 minute 1080p video with overlays and effects was rendered under 7-8 minutes I believe. Can't say for sure though. CPU idle temp 39-42 degrees celsius. Under 100% load it is around 54-55 degrees. Custom water cooling system from EK. The rad is 360 EK Coolstream. Cooled by 3 120mm vardar fans.

Hello everyone! EK said it is ok and the rad can be used. They said it is probably extra paint that got there by accident. It will not come off.