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Ok, so none of the methods worked out. Turning off D.O.C.P. is the only way to have a system load after cold boot. I think it is because of BIOS update. Default BIOS worked fine and I had been having my RAM overclocked for 3 years before I decided to update BIOS. Don't fix it if it is not broken.

Hey guys! Recently I noticed that a VRM fan on my MoBo doesn't spin. I rebooted and it started spinning again. Is it normal? I don't know much about that. Also, I installed iCUE from Corsair and added MoBo to it. I wanted to see the temps. I was shocked that it shows 110 degress right after the boot. Is it a bug or I should be worried?

I tried to do it, but windows 11 refused to load. It stucked on loading screen. Today I got this problem again. A cold start and fail to boot. Q-code shows error 94. Any ideas, guys?

OK, so I tried Corsair ToolBox. Updating Firmware failed. Secure wipe failed. So, the disk is still usable for copying files, but cannot be used as a boot disk. Sad but true.

I have it enabled, I just checked

Yes, it's been running for 3 years just fine.

Hello, guys! My RAM is CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory My motherboard is ASUS Prime TRX40-pro. My RAM shows as 2133Mhz when I do "load optimized defaults" in BIOS. Of course, I want my RAM to run on 3200Mhz. To do so, I go to BIOS and enable D.O.C.P. It forces RAM to work on 3200Mhz. So, everything is fine except the cold boot. BIOS refuses to load when I turn on my PC after a long night. I power off my PC and start it again and everything is fine. However, this cold boot problem concerns me. Any advices? P.S. I tried to update bios to the latest version as well as downgrade it to the 2020 version. No difference. Cold boot problem still persists.

You mean using Corsair ToolBox? Corsair deleted it from their website. I am not sure how to do it. Googling doesn't help much.

Hello everyone! About a week ago I noticed intimidating symptoms of my PC. Random reboots with BSOD even when performing a simple task such as renaming files. The worst BSOD and reboot happened when I was playing videogame. PC rebooted and I got "unmountable boot volume" BSOD right after the BIOS. I used a bootable USB and loaded CMD and DISKPART to check the disk condition. In my PC I have two M.2s. I noticed that they mixed their letters. I mean, disk C: became D: and vice versa. I used DISKPART to format the faulty M.2 but formatting was unsuccessful. I received "Error - Incorrect function" message from DISKPART. I took off the faulty M.2 and plugged it into my laptop. I tried to perform a quick format using Windows 11 disk properties->tools->format. That worked for a while. I tried to copy some files to this disk and faced error message from windows and the disk became "unrecognized USB device". I used m.2 USB-enclosure, by the way. So, another quick format and disk works again. Full format is always unsuccessful, by the way. I did some tests and they show a perfect condition of the disk. I wonder, Is there anything that can be done to fix this issue? May be some sort of 'advanced software' of whatever? I mean, the M.2 is not completely faulty, but definitely something bad happened to it.

Hey guys! So, the situation is worse than I expected. My BSOD happens to be not only when playing RDR2. It happened during rendering process. Also, I got random reboot when renaming or copying files in Windows. So, my guess is that it is SSD, despite the fact that it is 'healthy' and in 'excellent condition'. I got my bootable USB and loaded it. I tried no use DISKPART to clean and format my faulty SSD. Diskpart was unable to format disk. It says "incorrent function". I tried a different way to format. I took faulty SSD and put it in another PC and tried to perform a quick format. It worked! The faulty SSD now seems to work. I copy files on it and so on. However Windows says "error" when I try to perform a non-quick format to this disk. Does it look like a hardware issue? Is there anything that can be done?

I checked it and it appears I have it enabled on my PC. I completely deleted and reinstalled RDR2 and I will try it today. Funny thing - during downloading and installation game told me that it has corrupted files and has to re-download those.

Yeah, I have enough Gb free to use. Haven't heard of trim actually. Should I enable it, using cmd? I've just googled it a bit.

Seems good, I guess

Yeah, I did that, I mentioned that in my first post. I am now reinstalling the game completely. My guess is that it has been on my PC for several years, so probably some updates messed it up. Either Win11 or RDR2.

That's a bit inconvenient because I have SSDs and they are installed underneath GPU. Is it absolutely necessary? Like I said this only happens when playing RDR2. Doesn't seem to be an SSD problem, I suppose

Hi guys! Red Dead Redemption 2 has been installed on my pc since 2019. April 2021 is the last time I played it. But recently I decided to play again and I started a new game. Everything was fine until I got into chapter two. I was just playing, nothing special and all of a sudden my pc rebooted and... it was unable to boot again. I got BSOD 'Unmountable Boot Volume' and a constant boot loop. Here is what I did to fix that: 1. I loaded with a bootable win11 USB and started a command prompt 2. I executed the following commands: chkdsk /r c: sfc /scannow bootrec /fixmbr bootrec /fixboot bootrec /rebuildbcd DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth That fixed the problem and my PC loads just fine and works flawlessly. I can work in Adobe software, I can browse PornHub in incognito mode, everything is ok. When I start to play RDR2 again I play for like 10-20 minutes and it happens again. Reboot and 'Unmountable Boot Volume' BSOD. I have to go through the same list of cmd-commands again. This seem to happen exclusively with RDR2 game. I play Civilization 6 and GTA V from time to time and I've never had this problem. The most obvious guess is that RDR2 corrupts some vital files in Win11 and that causes Win11 to emergency reboot and become unbootable. I tried to 'verify game integrity files' but that did not help. My system is: Win11 x64 - all updates installed. Ryzen 3960x MoBo ASUS TRX40pro - the latest chipset drivers installed Nvidia 2080Ti the latest drivers installed 64Gb Corsair 3200mhz The game is on Steam

Thanks guys! I wish I could turn off this thing. I clean my PC annually and I use compressed air duster to clean my GPU. It does a great job.

Thank you for reply! So, is it quite normal for most modern GPUs to perform this self-test?

Hey there! I built my PC two years ago. CPU: Ryzen 3960x MoBo: ASUS TRX 40 pro GPU: GeForce 2080ti FE Ever since the first boot I noticed my GPU fans go to full speed upon startup. After around 10 seconds the fans go to normal speed. Does anyone know how to get rid of this annoying thing? Some say it's GPU self-testing fans, others say it MoBo issue and it is normal.

So, the reason was... Xbox controller! Actually it is the wireless adapter for the controller. It is the cause of input lag that slows down PC. I removed the wireless adapter and the problem solved. Hope it helps to someone.

No, I checked and there is nothing heavy there. Both CPU and GPU idling. Like I said, doing a restart completely eliminates the problem. So, it feels like Win10 randomly loads kind of 'badly' or not loads all the things it need. Most likely it all started with a recent windows update. So, I hope the next update will solve the problem.

Hey there! Recently I noticed a weird issue with my PC. I have Windows 10 with all the updates installed. When I turn on my PC the Windows loads much slower than usual. When I get to desktop I see that every action gives much slower response. For example when I hit the Start menu button it takes 1 second for Win10 to open the menu. Things like rendering or photoshop work are much much slower than usual. It does not happen all the time. It usually happens when the PC is turned off for quite a while, like 12 hours or more. My suspicion is that the issue appeared after the recent windows update. Has anyone ever experienced the same problem?

Hello everyone! I recently installed EK Flow indicator into my custom loop. After around 3 weeks I noticed a weird rattling sound from it. I turned off all the fans inside the case and put my ear next to the Flow Indicator. I can clearly hear that the rattling sound comes from it. It is not super loud but it is quite noticeable, especially in a noiseless environment. I've never used flow indicators, so I am curious - is it normal or I have a faulty one?

Hello there! It's been a while and I recently decided to do a maintenance of the White Ripper. You know, you have to flush the loop once a year. However, it's been 15 months until I finally managed to do it. I also decided to do some upgrades here and there. I am going to replace the pump, the water block, and the fans. In order to do it I need to get a Corsair Commander Pro. As a little bonus to my loop I got a flow indicator. I don't know why. Anyway, everything is ready for the procedure: Very nice fittings from Corsair, I really like those. They're better than those made by EK, to my taste: BeQuiet fans. I used to have Vardar fans, but they started making weird noise (revving), so I decided to replace them. The White Ripper is under surgery: New waterblock EK-Quantum Magnitude sTRX4 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi The old pump is now replaced with EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi I used 3M double-sided tape to mount Commander Pro and EK flow indicator. I highly recommend this tape. It's really a good one! Cable management is in progress: Pouring in a new mix - Acid green EK CryoFuel and distilled water Hope you guys like it. Took me an entire day to perform it. I also want to mention that there was not gunk or dirt in the old waterblock. So, I doubt it is necessary to flush the loop every 12 months.

Kisai, thanks for a detailed answer! So, I guess there is no reliable ups for a powerful PC. On top of that they do not last long like you mentioned. This is what I was thinking about after having read about all those ups. So, I guess I'll just stick with my surge protector from APC. Thanks again, man!