Juular

Seasonic S12III is garbage. Corsair CX-m is fine but probably not worth it over be quiet! System Power 9U with this price difference and for this build. Try to find Corsair CV650, if it's same price as U9 it would be preferable, 650/750W versions of it are different than 450/550W.

Considering that efficiency has nothing to do with the actual quality of the PSU and Seasonic Focus is rather budget series, 65$ doesn't sound like a good price for a used one at all, i'm not sure if Seasonic warranty is transferrable or not tho, if it is then it might be fine. About a new PSU for the same price, there are sometimes some deals bringing the price of comparable PSUs closer to that but not right now, although you could've added just 20$ more for something like Corsair RM-x instead, a better PSU anyway.
 
PS: God, i hate Comic Sans, this is not 1st April's joke, LMG, i'm suing you for emotional damages.

@AnonymousGuyConsidering that you don't have the new GPUs that would require those new connectors so you don't need a PSU right now, i suggest waiting maybe half a year for Corsair HX refresh, there's going to be 1.5kW model, similar platform to the aforementioned bq DPP12 but maybe it would end up cheaper, and you wouldn't need to swap the cables aside for adding the new GPU cables when needed.

CPU VRM gets 12V, logic that operates it doesn't know it has to be online, nothing happens.

Try it out, disable OCP if it trips, doesn't help ? You either need a 750/850W PSU or to downvolt/powerlimit the card.

Are you living on the edge of a live volcano ?
 
First, Corsair CX uses rifle bearing, which Yate Loon SH is.
Second, yes, it's cheap and will fail earlier than Hong Hua rifle in CX-F/RM/RMx or FDB in HX, but CX is a budget unit and you can't expect it to live for 10 years really, it should live at least as long a 5 years since that's warranty length on that PSU, otherwise they'll lose money on RMA claims. If and when it eventually fails and it would be out of warranty or the warranty is somehow not an option then to make sure the PSU doesn't blow up you should pick a pressure optimized fan that would work at the RPM higher than stock one, but it's a tricky ordeal so at that point just replace the PSU altogether, or buy a better PSU with higher quality fan in the first place (like CX-F/RM/RMx) so it lasts longer.

And, MSI A1000G Review.
 
 

CoolerMaster XG Review
 
 

That could definitely be the case, but that doesn't make what he said invalid. Seasonic is a small OEM in comparison and they actually have less control over their production because they outsource more things what other OEMs don't. And Corsair doing their own layer of QA/QC on top, regardless of the OEM of their products means that they have more control over their products than brands that just use outsourced off-the-shelf solutions like Antec, EVGA, Phanteks etc. And the fact that despite Seasonic are always ready to throw some Prime Titaniums to random YT'ers for 'reviews', there are very few reviews on their budget offerings, not to mention proper ones - also still stands.

Components that protect the equipment from surges are sacrificial (they get damaged by the spikes and would eventually fail), so to have a continuous protection against frequent spikes you gotta have a lot of them. While in a PSU there's typically just a single relatively low energy MOV. I'm not sure why but i'm gonna assume due to space constrains. Whereas in any decent dedicated surge protector there would be at least a few of those, usually with higher energy capacity, and in some also a different type of surge protection component - GDT. So if you have frequent surges and want continuous protection it would always be a good idea to get a surge protector even if the PSU has some surge protection itself too.

For higher transient capability the GPU that would actually need 600W - yes, probably, since 'conventional' pre-ATX3.0 PSUs don't have nearly enough capacitance to deal with transient like that with the probable exception of some 1.3-1.6kW designs. But it's too early to say anything concrete, we'll see when those GPU actually come.

PSU manufacturers were nowhere near this, there are no PSU manufacturers in the PCI-SIG, they were given the spec post factum, GPU designers - sure, both AMD and nVidia are there, but they're not really GPU manufacturers either, as in the whole product, for customer market at least. Regardless, i don't really see the use of this 4-pin appendix in the way it's implemented either, if you're going out your way to make a specification for something new then a true digital interface would've made way more sense IMO too, it's not like we're living in 1950's, it can be made reliably and server PSU already have it.
Yeah, thing is, you don't need this connector PSU-side. A cable with 2/3x8-pin on one side and 12VHPWR on another will do just fine. Neither you need the 4-pin part because it's a simple short to ground.
The PSU would've had control over this if there would've been an interface, there isn't. It's a passive in-cable physical config merely telling that the GPU is 'good to go'.

Nope, it's Jon.

There are near zero reviews on any FlexATX PSUs so far so they aren't really in the scope of this tier list (yet).
 
Speaking of that thing, looks modern enough, LLC resonant primary, DC-DC secondary, cheap ChengX main cap of questionable quality but it's secondary that matters and i can't make out anything from there. In any case, we need proper reviews to put it higher than tier C anyway, even if we'll start adding FlexATX.

I think i've already answered you on Reddit or THW. This PSU is essentially the same thing as Chieftec Polaris, made by Sirfa / High Power, a decent budget PSU. There are no reviews tho and i don't recall where i got that info from, maybe someone disassembled the thing. But for 40 CAD it worth it as long as you only need a budget PSU.

First of all, if you decide to fix it, be aware that it's very dangerous to work on an electrical equipment like that if you don't know what are you doing. There's a big high voltage capacitor inside with potentially lethal amount of energy stored in it. You should wait at least a couple of days after it was plugged in the mains the last time before opening it to allow the energy to dissipate.
 
This looks like a CWT design, so chances are (since it failed after only 5 years) it uses a Yate Loon rifle bearing fan (CWT tends to use in budget offerings) which aren't all that good. You can try to replace the fan but it's a tricky ordeal, it would be easier to just lube it. It would then last maybe another year or two and then you'll need to do this again tho.
 
 
If you decide to replace the whole PSU, keep in mind that there are zero reviews on any Green PSU so we don't know what fans they use and whether they wouldn't fail in any of their high-end models in the next 5 years either. Although GP-A-UK Plus looks better on paper than both GP-A-GED and GP-A-ESD and Green Globe Fan FDB bearing fan in the photos, which is good, if that's what they use, so i vote for that.

Poor IHS coldplate contact ?

Corsair RM/RM-x (no significant difference aside for the lack of in-cable caps on RM which is actually a good thing) or EVGA G6. Or Thermaltake GF1 if 15CAD difference is a big deal for you. There's also Antec HCG Gold for the same price, Seasonic Focus GX based, but eh, i'd rather take GF1 instead.

What the safety code for residential wiring in US has to do with consumer PSUs exactly ?

No, it's not how it works.

Because the PSUs don't run at 100% all the time. They have efficiency ratings depending if they have none, standard, bronze, silver, gold or platinum certification (and even those can't be trusted as many times they perform lower than what they are rated for). Most of them will run between 80 to 85% efficiency. So 80% out 650 is 520. So you have no headroom and you are behind by default from your own calculation.

Pretty much, in US at least. With EVGA G6 being close second (worth it to go for RM-x even if it's more expensive if you need 1kW tho, unless you're size constrained).
Correct.
By reading and analyzing proper, professional reviews.

Regardless of how good it was at the time (and it was), it's at this point just ancient. Not worth the risk to use in a modern build. As a backup ? Sure. Or just strip the casing, dust it and place it in an acrylic box with it powered and the PS-ON pin jumped so it shines it's RGB as a relic of the past.

Replace it when you upgrade. For this build it's fine, chances are if you replace the thermal paste under it's FETs and maybe replace secondary side capacitors which show the signs of aging, it would be still better than modern Seasonic Prime GX but i wouldn't risk it with thousands dollars worth of the new hardware.

It wasn't, because there's a very limited amounts of users with it. But it's a stock Seasonic Prime PX/TX so it's not unreasonable to expect it to perform exactly the same, including the flaws it has.
Correct, it's not OCP as most people think. It's a design oversight by Seasonic triggered by too aggressive boosting algorithm of nVidia Ampere. But you can expect next generation GPUs to be even more aggressive so at this point it's a given.
It was released in 2017, sill pretty much the same design as HX-i from 2013. But it still stands by this time.
As long as the PSU was designed properly, that is, the fan curve is configured with all kinds of usage scenarios in mind to not put the PSU under the risk of failing, then that doesn't matter. And you can be assured that it was in the case of Corsair HX, which is also as quiet as Prime TX despite being less efficient because it uses better components. Corsair HX Platinum is better than Seasonic Prime TX / Antec Signature Titanium / Corsair AX in pretty much all metrics except for efficiency. There are basically only two four 80+ Titanium PSUs worth looking at over it, be quiet! Dark Power 12 Pro (not the non-Pro), and Corsair AX1600i, both of which are quite a bit more expensive, and also EVGA T2 or Super Flower Leadex Titanium, which usually aren't any cheaper either.