Juular

Elisis is well aware what's the G3 position in the tier list, he's one of the contributors lol. EVGA G3 is in low priority subtier which itself indicates that there are some problems with it, we ain't going to put a foot note on each and any PSUs there, it's just going to be too long otherwise. And while the issue may be minor, Aris has one unit dying on overpower test and the other struggling with delivering the power cleanly, which you wouldn't notice under normal operating conditions, it's indeed far from being 'very good' either unless we see reviews of the new, potentially improved revision which ain't gonna happen because EVGA refuses to send review samples anymore, they just flood the market and hope that people will still blindly buy their PSUs. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-850-g3-psu,4930-6.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-1000-g3-psu,4941.html

I mean, if you're building a 2k$ PC may as well shell out some $50-100 more for a PSU that's definitely known to be good quality and to work well with RTX3080, which is Corsair SF if you're limiting yourself to SFX. Not that CM V SFX is bad, we just don't know if it's good since there are zero reviews.

You need to replace it, not upgrade, it's one of the worst PSUs out there. Corsair CX-m is infinitely better. EVGA BA since there are zero reviews on it, EVGA just doesn't care. Maybe there's something else ? Non-modular Corsair CX for example.

So double the fire hazard lol. What's the GPU and CPU you're trying to power with them ?

Tier D, there were problems with high ripple on it IIRC but the review is quite old and perhaps that was already been fixed.

Time to lose the rest of the PSU too, this thing is ancient.

Might be that the GPU isn't stable at undervolt ? Try raising the voltage a bit. Also, check the PSU cables for damage (melted plastic, charring on contacts).

How about 850W AX / Prime ?

Yeah, thing is we don't know for sure and Seasonic is completely silent which doesn't help a thing. But since Corsair AX apparently is affected and it's based off Seasonic Prime, it's assumed that the new revision of Prime itself is affected too. Completely different, different OEM even. It's already in the list, tier C LP because they don't claim OTP and we don't have any detailed reviews on it yet.

Yes, old revision Focus (Gold, Gold Plus and Platinum Plus, not the new GM/GX/PX) and potentially all Primes with RTX3080/3090 (didn't see any cases with RX6800/6900XT). nVidia made some driver changes months ago but it's unclear if that helped to address the issue for 100%. Neither Seasonic said anything about it, so meanwhile it's better to avoid Prime entirely (sub 1kW units at least) and make sure that you buy a new Focus revision if you plan to use RTX3080/3090. You can find the best PSU reviews out there at techpowerup.com and tomshardware.com, made by Aris Mpizopolous aka crmaris, strange that you didn't find them, they usually are the first in the Google query. He also has an YT channel, 'Hardware Busters'. New Seasonic revisions weren't reviewed by him tho, but i imagine they should perform comparably to previous revisions which there are a good amount of reviews for. There are also a few other reviewers with similar level of detail however, links for pretty much all of them can be found at the PSU tier list spreadsheet, link is in the OP.

I do. Windows 10 uses a hibernation both for sleep and shutdown, i.e it saves the state of OS onto the disk and then shutdowns/sleeps. So saying that hibernation is a relic and it isn't used anymore is wrong. Besides, that has nothing to do with the OP's issue. Try to reseat RAM too and/or use only one stick (both of them one by one), then try to disconnect everything from the motherboard and see if it shows any signs of life this way. Check the 24-pin PSU cable for damage on the cable itself and connectors on both ends, check the PSU connector too. Do a continuity test on the 24-pin cable, especially 5VSB and PWR_OK. Replace the CMOS battery.

https://store.cablemod.com/configurator/

Did you check your RAM ?

Yes.

Country ? Budget ?

Yep.

Just shuts down ... and restarts ? Or shutdowns and doesn't let you ever to start the PC again until you cycle the power switch on the PSU ? If it's the former then it's not a PSU issue, because if it was any PSU protection then it should've latched itself off. Check your RAM.

Which means that the GPU is unstable, nothing to do with the PSU. How exactly did you try to OC it ? Nowhere near 400W you have with this PSU minus power draw of the CPU and other components but the GPU. Regardless, if you really want to buy a new PSU, look at these : https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CQNgXL/enermax-revolution-df-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-erf850ewt https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hrqBD3/nzxt-c-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-np-c850m-us

HEC is a parent company of Cougar and OEM themselves who manufacture a good amount of PSUs of other brands such as EVGA and Corsair. Now of what i see listed there, TG is most likely relatively modern, LLC resonant platform and although there are zero reviews on it and i haven't seen it actually used in non-OEM PSUs it should be okay if it's cheap enough. Don't know anything else about other models tho, there are zero pictures or reviews and their site isn't particularly descriptive either. If i had to guess i'd say that TC is probably a platform behind bqt SP9, EVGA BQ or BR but i have nothing to support that with. Maybe @OrionFOTLcan help (what's up with the site btw ?).

There are no PSUs that aren't rated for 220V, however there are PSUs that rated ONLY for 220V but they're not sold in US and Antec EAG Gold isn't one of them. As of OP's question, well it depends on how loud the buzz is, if it's very loud, even at idle i'd think that there's something wrong either with the PSU (maybe it isn't a coil whine but failed fan bearing or they've forgot to put a putty on conductors inside at the factory) or your mains (high electrical noise).

These are debug lights, they lit-up at the respective POST stage during boot so you can see what's happening, it's normal.

Well, it's not a particularly bad one but since you've ruled out driver issue the only two other suspects are GPU and PSU. Do you have some other PSU to swap in and check if the issue persists ?

See, say we're talking about HX-i which has 10 years warranty. I buy a unit right now that was manufactured 8 years ago at the very release of the series and was lying on the shelves somewhere somehow, retailer still sells it as new because it's still the same series as 7 years ago. Are there some safeguards from the logistics side of things or Corsair will simply absorb any potentially higher losses on warranty of PSUs down the road that were lying on the shelves that long but still sold as new and are under warranty ?

No such thing, it either supplies power or it doesn't. If the PC pulls more power that i can supply it shuts down completely. One thing that can affect performance though is high ripple and bad voltage regulation but again, you can't damage a PSU by simply pushing the cable all the way in and creating a spark unless you do that like several thousand times i guess. You're safe lol. One thing is tho, it could've been you who damaged the motherboard, not the PSU. You say that you've felt a jolt when trying to disconnect the cable, as the PSU was grounded it's unlikely that the electricity from the PSU have been routed through you to the ground (unless you were bare on the wet floor or smth), but that may be a sign of static build up on your body, i.e it's you who have been the source of the electricity, and that means that you could've damaged the motherboard with a static discharge too. Although i haven't actually seen any examples where that could've happened, damaging RAM sticks ? Sure, but the whole motherboard ? Are you sure that motherboard is really dead ? Maybe test it again or with another PSU ?

Well, that can happen with any PSU. Good PSUs are going through lengthy burn-in at the factory to filter those that potentially may not survive but there's still a slim chance that they'll get past that. There's also a factor of how they were stored, high humidity during storage may affect the PSU negatively. And well, if you live in cold climate it's better to keep the PSU (or any electronics really) some time unpowered at room temperature to get rid of any condensation after it was transported through cold outside environment.