wojoxx98

Oh, then I don't know how to help you, I'm very sorry! I hope you can solve it with some help from the forums 🙂

I used to do electrical labouring work in Auckland, running cables and AV/telco work. Almost all houses in that city have what you have in that picture, more cable and wires than what is actually being used and it looks really messy. My recommendation is identify and tape/label the cable with internet. Then take a pair of wires at the place you want internet and short them, note the colour. test with a multimeter back at where your internet is then connect there. I hope that makes sense.
 

PCIe 3 does not drop 5700XT performance, but I prefer 2070S because nothing sucks more than getting a card freshly delivered to work but it doesnt cooperate.

Hey Y'all, 
 
I built my rig around this time last year, below are my current specs.
 
CPU Ryzen 5 2600x, stock cooler Motherboard MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200MHz GPU GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti Case Rosewill Spectra C100 Storage Kingston 240GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD 7200 RPM PSU Corsair CX 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze   I wanted a gaming rig something terrible, but didn't have as much money as I would have liked to, so I cheap got cheap in a few areas, mainly the GPU. This worked out fine for a while, as I was playing games like BeamNG Drive and Automation: The Car Company Tycoon Game, nothing crazy. In the past year I have gotten a much better job and started buying some better, AAA games, such as GTA V, Mafia 3, and Far Cry New Dawn. All three of these games run alright, but I struggle to maintain 60 FPS without dropping the settings. Maybe it's just me, but I cringe when I have to lower settings. I want to get the best at 1080p without compromises. My next purchase will most likely be RDR 2, and I know there's no way I'm going to get a relatively steady 60 FPS without really dropping the settings, and I definitely don't want to do that. I am also looking to purchase a nice high refresh rate 1080p monitor, or maybe, but not likely, a 1440p monitor. Therefore, I've decided its time for an upgrade.   I did a quick search on Amazon, there's two 2070S I can get for $499, linked here.   https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD/dp/B07WN6RVHH/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921157&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-Graphics-IceStorm-Zt-T20710E-10M/dp/B07XSPWMP9/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921183&sr=8-7   I also looked at some 5700XT's ranging from $369 to $419, linked here.   https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921238&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1905MHz-Express-Graphics-Rx-57XT8OFF6/dp/B07WRYC3MT/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-6\ https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Radeon-Boost-Clock/dp/B07WNSP41M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-8   What I know already is that the 5700XT is 10 to 20 percent slower, but 25 or more percent cheaper that the 2070S. That would make me inclined to go with the 5700XT. But I know they had a lot of launch issues, such as overheating and bad drivers. Is this still the case? Also, my motherboard is only a B450, so it doesn't have PCI E 4.0. Does that have any kind of performance difference?    It seems like the 2070S is a pretty universally well liked card, and seems to have less issues. I could care less about ray tracing though. So would the chance of it being easier to just plug and play make it work the extra $100+? I have the money to buy either, and am kind of leaning towards the 5700XT, but I just don't want to spend so much money and be fighting it all the way to get it working right. Remember, my main goal is to play anything maxed at 1080p, 60 FPS. Anything past that is just a nice bonus. I know this is probably overkill, but I'd like my next upgrade to be 2 or 3 years from now, not in less than one year like with my 1660ti.    Thanks for any advice!  

Back in February 2019, I bought a Google Pixel 3 to replace my iPhone 6s. I'm paying $846.94 for it over 24 months. I thought it was an excellent phone, but then I started having issues with it about 3 months ago. At first, the charger had issues with staying in the port if the phone vertical on the mount in my car. It slowly progressed to the charger only being able to inserted halfway into the port, and not being able to provide power at all. I contacted Google Support about it on December 19, and about 30 minutes later I had a replacement phone ordered. I had to provide my credit card info so they could put a hold until they received my old phone, as I can't be without a phone due to my job. On December 23 I received my replacement phone, and there was immediately an issue; the bottom speaker was blown. Because of this, I couldn't take phone calls on speaker, or hear any alarms or notifications, as all those sounds only played through the bottom speaker. I tried to live with it for a little over a week until the speaker went from very distorted to completely non-functioning. On January 5, I contacted support again, and 30 minutes later a second replacement phone was on the way. I received that phone today, January 8, and it too had an issue. On the bottom right corner of the screen there is an issue with the pixels; it displays green when the rest of the screen is white, and the color is distorted when any other color is displayed. I immediately contacted customer support and requested a refund. They told me they could not do that because the limit for returns was in March, a month after I received my first phone. The only thing he could do was send me a third replacement phone. I reluctantly agreed to do that, but made sure to let them know I was very disappointed with the devices they were sending. He said he was sorry and he would pass it on. I'm fed up with this. The replacement phones they send are all refurbished, but so far it seems like they don't even bother checking that these phones work before sending them back out. Also, they charge full price for replacement phones if the old one isn't returned in time, even though the phone they send is refurbished. Doesn't seem too fair to me. But if this third phone they send me is also defective, I will fight harder for a refund. I should not be spending nearly $1,000 to have such a lousy experience. I would not recommend buying a Google phone at all. Stick with an iPhone. They actually work properly. 

Good luck getting your iphone fixed if anything happens to it, they will reccomend you just buy a new phone  Apple is no better in some regards for this

Sorry for the late replies, but I had to go to work. But I've done some more research thanks to you two.
 
@Bombastinator, Both of these computers do have soldered CPUs. On the Toshiba, its a Celeron N2820, and the Dell is a Celeron N3060. So unfortunately a CPU upgrade is out of the question. 
 
@Eigenvektor, I have confirmed that both CPUs are 64 bit and can support up to 8 GB of RAM. I've already been inside both machines. The Toshiba was easy, just a single screw and a panel pops off the bottom to give you access to the RAM and storage. On the Dell, it was exactly how you described. Almost 10 screws on the bottom, take out the DVD drive, pop out the keyboard, take out 5 more screws, and then you're in. 
 
But the RAM in both computers are single, 4 GB SODIMM stick. 4 GB is all both computers say they have in the About tab in the settings. There is only a single slot for RAM, and there doesn't appear to be any soldered RAM. 
 
I'll keep thinking about the RAM upgrade, but I think I'll go through with the SSD upgrade. I know how fast they've made my own personal gaming rig and my mom's PC. Honestly, I'm not expecting a $32 SSD to preform any miracles (Kingston A400 240 GB), but if it can cut boot times from literal minutes to under one minute, I'll call it a success.
 
Thank you very much for your input!
 

Sorry for the late replies, but I had to go to work. But I've done some more research thanks to you two.
 
@Bombastinator, Both of these computers do have soldered CPUs. On the Toshiba, its a Celeron N2820, and the Dell is a Celeron N3060. So unfortunately a CPU upgrade is out of the question. 
 
@Eigenvektor, I have confirmed that both CPUs are 64 bit and can support up to 8 GB of RAM. I've already been inside both machines. The Toshiba was easy, just a single screw and a panel pops off the bottom to give you access to the RAM and storage. On the Dell, it was exactly how you described. Almost 10 screws on the bottom, take out the DVD drive, pop out the keyboard, take out 5 more screws, and then you're in. 
 
But the RAM in both computers are single, 4 GB SODIMM stick. 4 GB is all both computers say they have in the About tab in the settings. There is only a single slot for RAM, and there doesn't appear to be any soldered RAM. 
 
I'll keep thinking about the RAM upgrade, but I think I'll go through with the SSD upgrade. I know how fast they've made my own personal gaming rig and my mom's PC. Honestly, I'm not expecting a $32 SSD to preform any miracles (Kingston A400 240 GB), but if it can cut boot times from literal minutes to under one minute, I'll call it a success.
 
Thank you very much for your input!
 

I assume both CPUs are 64 bit and support more than 4 GB of RAM, right?
 
You should have a look at the handbook for either machine, to see how much and what kind of RAM they support and how many slots there are. Generally I think a RAM upgrade is worth is (allows Windows to cache more stuff), but make sure the machines support this type of speed.
 
On some machines the second slot can also be hard to access and/or not user upgradeable (e.g. it may be located below the keyboard instead of the other side), which requires a fair bit of disassembly. I've done it with an old notebook of mine, but it was more work then anticipated and the keyboard didn't work at first, because I hadn't replaced the ribbon cable properly. And yeah, in some machines it can actually be soldered.
 
I've also had laptops where an SSD upgrade was of questionably success, simply because the machine was so slow, it couldn't make full use of the faster speed.

This strikes me as a project with a fairly low success chance.  Laptops tend to have proprietary and/or soldered down everything. Ram may help a little, especially if there’s not enough of it and you can arrange for more.  an SSD would make boot faster.  They won’t increase overall speed all that much though.
 
Most laptops have soldered CPUs. Do these? If not what other CPUs are considered compatible by the manufacturer.  There could be bios or heat issues with dropping in just anything that fits the socket.

I'm building my mom a new computer for Christmas, and have spent less than $350 total for everything but Windows 10. A friend tried to get me a free Windows 10 key through her college, but three weeks after submitting her request for it, she has yet to hear anything back. So now that all the parts will be arriving tomorrow, I need to purchase a Windows 10 key ASAP, but I absolutely do not want to pay the $130-$140 that Microsoft is asking, especially because of how cheap the computer is. 
 
When I search "Windows 10 Key" on Google, the first few sellers are places like G2A with prices around $17, and PC Market Online for about $25. Are these keys actually legit, and are they safe to use? 
 
Are there other sites that sell keys that any of you would recommend more? Or should I just suck it up and buy a full price key from Microsoft? 
 
Thanks for any and all advice!

The official controllers are really good.
This is the case for both the xbox 360 controller and the xbox one controller.
 
That said, I do have a third party one from PDP and they are wired and cheaper but personally they are just as good.
I would go the safe route and get an official one, they are solid, price is decent so why not.

I've been extremely satisfied with my Microsoft Xbox One controller for PC usage.
The sorts of games I usually use it for are racing and platformer games. I played a little bit of Skyrim with it, but didn't like that as much.. I have also used many different console controllers over the years, including those from Sony and Nintendo too. So keep in mind my opinion will mostly come from that angle. 
 
The Xbox One controller is one of my top 5 controllers ever; only really beaten by the GameCube, Switch Pro and PS2 controllers.
They all have their advantages, but what I think the XB1 controller does very good are:
- Analog triggers, that feel really natural in racing games.
- Sticks with a good ridge around them (I like concave and convex sticks, but these are one of the best in general)
- Good layout: no obvious flaws here..
- A decent D-pad! I still like more 'mushy' D-Pad, but this clicky pad is way better than the 360 controller atrocity..
- No built in battery, so you have either have to get a bunch of double A's (which last quite long) or just get the play&charge kit (which I did and it works great).
 
In the past I did not have good experiences with third party controllers, but I have never tried third part Xbox One controllers, so can't comment on those (usually the plastic housing felt cheaper on those and the buttons less solid).
I think 40 USD is very fair for a first party controller though.
 
P.S. keep in mind you can use the Xbox One controller wired with a micro USB cable, or wireless with either a bluetooth dongle (if you dont have bluetooth in your device) or the Xbox One wireless adapter.

Yup. Considering your mother's needs, this is very adequate. Maybe bump it up to a Ryzen 2400G so you can get more years out of it, otherwise its fine.

I'm looking to build my second computer, this one being for my 60 year old mother. She will only be using it for web browsing, so it doesn't need to be powerful. The only problem is that there is nothing that this woman hates doing more than spending money, so one of her ways of saving it is by using a computer till its slower than a 90's Civic. She has owned 3 computers in 22 years, the most recent being built 9 years ago with an AMD Athlon CPU and running Windows 7. So this new computer needs to be powerful enough now to be usable years from now, and cheap, between $300 and $350 not including Windows 10. 
 
With that in mind, what do you guys think would be a good CPU?
 
My main choice would be a Ryzen 3 2200G, just because it's a quad core with good integrated graphics, and it's $78. I feel like an Athlon 200GE isn't powerful enough to be adequate in 5+ years, and I don't feel a Ryzen 5 2400G offers enough of an increase in power for an extra $40 ($119). Do you guys agree with this choice? 
 
Also, below is my build on PC Part Picker. The Storage is just a stand in, it will be a 240GB Kingston A400 2280 M.2 which is the same price as the 2.5" SSD. Does the rest of the build look good as well? 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $78.00 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $84.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $44.99 @ Amazon Storage Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $31.99 @ Amazon Case Rosewill SCM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $28.99 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $58.54 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $327.50   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-10 14:55 EST-0500    
Thanks in advance for any advice!

I'm looking to build my second computer, this one being for my 60 year old mother. She will only be using it for web browsing, so it doesn't need to be powerful. The only problem is that there is nothing that this woman hates doing more than spending money, so one of her ways of saving it is by using a computer till its slower than a 90's Civic. She has owned 3 computers in 22 years, the most recent being built 9 years ago with an AMD Athlon CPU and running Windows 7. So this new computer needs to be powerful enough now to be usable years from now, and cheap, between $300 and $350 not including Windows 10. 
 
With that in mind, what do you guys think would be a good CPU?
 
My main choice would be a Ryzen 3 2200G, just because it's a quad core with good integrated graphics, and it's $78. I feel like an Athlon 200GE isn't powerful enough to be adequate in 5+ years, and I don't feel a Ryzen 5 2400G offers enough of an increase in power for an extra $40 ($119). Do you guys agree with this choice? 
 
Also, below is my build on PC Part Picker. The Storage is just a stand in, it will be a 240GB Kingston A400 2280 M.2 which is the same price as the 2.5" SSD. Does the rest of the build look good as well? 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $78.00 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $84.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $44.99 @ Amazon Storage Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $31.99 @ Amazon Case Rosewill SCM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $28.99 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $58.54 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $327.50   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-10 14:55 EST-0500    
Thanks in advance for any advice!