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Hi everyone! I built my computer 3 years ago. The important specs are a 2600x, a 1660ti, a 650 watt Bronze power supply, and a 165hz 1080p monitor. I'll post my full specs below. I'm getting a bonus from work, and would like to use it to upgrade my graphics card. I can afford either one, but ideally would like whatever gives me the most bang for my buck. As the title states, I've found a 3060ti for $570 https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-3060-ti-rtx-3060-ti-ventus-2x-8g-ocv1-lhr/p/N82E16814137673?Item=N82E16814137673&Description=3060ti&cm_re=3060ti-_-14-137-673-_-Product or a 3070ti for $700 https://www.newegg.com/asus-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-tuf-rtx3070ti-o8g-gaming/p/N82E16814126512?Item=N82E16814126512&Description=3070ti&cm_re=3070ti-_-14-126-512-_-Product&quicklink=true These prices are USD btw. Both of these are just examples. I'm not loyal to any brand, nor am I looking for RGB or going for a specific look, I just want something that runs well. I understand that I should get the best that I can afford, but I DO NOT want to upgrade anything else in my system. I know that the 3070ti has a recommended minimum power supply of 750w, but I only have 650w. I have never overclocked my current card and have no intentions of overclocking the new one. Can I get away with the 650w? My second concern is that I currently have a 1080p, 165hz monitor. It does the job. I might upgrade in the future, but for now I'm sticking with what I got. A 3070ti is overkill for what I currently have. Not to mention I'm running a midrange processor from 4 years ago. Will I have a noticeable difference in performance between the 3060ti and the 3070ti? Should I just get the 3070ti in case I ever decide to upgrade the rest of the computer? My last concern is that subjectively, the 3070ti is the better value. It's only $100 over MSRP, although I know MSRP doesn't really matter anymore. The 3060ti is $170 over MSRP. I feel like that if I'm spending that much money on a 3060ti, I should just spend a little more and get a 3070ti. If anyone has done something like what I want to do, or can answer one or all of my questions and concerns, I would greatly appreciate it! Also, my full specs: CPU Ryzen 5 2600x Motherboard MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200MHz GPU GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti Case Rosewill Spectra C100 Storage Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD 7200 RPM PSU Corsair CX 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Display(s) Main: AOC C27G2, Secondary: HP 24w Cooling Ryzen Wraith Cooler, 5 case fans Keyboard Razer Blackwidow TE Chroma V2, Green Switches Mouse Razer Mamba Elite Sound Logitech Z623, Schiit Magni 3 powering Sennheiser HD6XX Operating System Windows 10

Hi Everyone, Here's a little backstory to what's going on. On January 1st, we had a small fire in our home. We ended up needing to call in a restoration company because of the smoke. A company called Electronic Restoration Services took anything with a plug on it, including my entire computer setup. Five weeks later we finally got everything back, but as the title states, I'm now having some display issues. We took it up with ERS, and they told us that as long as the computer turns on, it's not their problem. Therefore, it's up to me to try and figure this out. I have two monitors; an AOC G27C2 connected by DisplayPort, and a HP 24w connected via HDMI. They are both connected to a GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti. The only monitor that seems to be having issues is the AOC. The monitor is displaying at native 1080p, and I have the refresh rate set at 165hz, which is the native refresh rate for the monitor. Both the computer and graphics drivers are up to date as of 2/15/22. The only issue that happens every time on every boot is the flickering. It doesn't do it while outside of a game, but without fail will do it after launching one. I've tried multiple titles such as GTA V, Mafia III, BeamNG Drive, Stormworks, and a few more. Sometimes it's more noticeable, but it's always there. It just looks like the backlight is strobing, going from the set brightness to about half brightness. The other issues happen less frequently. Sometimes in game, I will get a black screen. Sometimes it lasts just a second or two, but other times it can be impossible for it to go away without rebooting the computer. When this happens, I still have audio, which is routed through headphones and an amplifier that is plugged into the motherboard. Also, the game never freezes; it's playing as normal, and if you use the mouse or controller, you can hear it interacting with whatever should be displayed on the screen. The last issue is a weird one. I'm not too sure how to explain it, but it's almost like static is being displayed on top of the game. It usually never happens, but it does it usually occurs right after moving the camera or something changing dramatically on screen. It can be different colors, can just be a thin line running across the screen, take up the whole screen, or be somewhere in between. It's always transparent, but it's very distracting. As to how to how I go about fixing it is where I'm not sure what to do. I don't believe it's a graphics card issue because I've never had any issues with the other monitor. I'm also not sure if it's a monitor issue as I don't have this problem all the time, only in game. That leads me to believe it could be a DisplayPort cable issue. The one I'm using came with the monitor. When we received everything back from ERS, all my cables were coiled up tight and twisted together to keep them from unraveling. Could them doing this have damaged the cable somehow? Could this be as simple as just buying a new DisplayPort cable? Could I have just wasted quite a bit of time typing this all out? Any advice, personal experiences, anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any and all help!

I have an issue with my computer that seems to be similar to what many other people have had, but different enough that I can't find anything specific enough to help me. During gameplay in some games, I have an issue with my primary monitor going black. This usually happens for 5-10 seconds, and when it happens, I can still hear the game and the mouse cursor is still interacting with everything on the display, even though there is nothing being displayed. There are only two games that I can think of this happening with: Train Simulator and Automation, The Car Company Tycoon Game. The screen always goes black on startup and then comes back on, and every time I click something it'll go black and come back momentarily. There are other games I play, like RDR2, GTAV, Transport Fever 2, and BeamNG Drive where I've never had this issue, and this where my problem seems to differ from everyone else. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this issue in these games specifically? It doesn't matter if I try full screen, windowed, windowed borderless, nothing fixes it. Could it be an issue with the games themselves? My display drivers are up to date, Windows is up to date. Literally everything that I've seen someone suggest, I've tried, and I can't get anything to fix it. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it!

I am looking to sell my laptop, which is an HP Envy X360 model 15z-ds100. It was custom ordered from HP in August of 2020, with upgrades including the Ryzen 7 4700U, 16GB of RAM and a 512 GB SSD. I paid just a little over $900 USD for it. I want to sell it because it was pretty much an impulse buy, and after having it for 6 months, I've come to find I hardly ever use it. I don't need to sell it, and I am not desperate for money, but I have never sold anything other than an old iPad so I have no idea what to ask for it. It is in perfect condition, with no scratches or dents anywhere, and comes in original packaging and with the charger and included pen for the touchscreen. I'd like to ask $600 USD. Is that too much? Too little? And where should I sell it? Would Facebook Marketplace work, or should I consider eBay or some other site? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I'm currently in the market for a new laptop, and I think I've narrowed my choice down to the HP Envy x360. I've never actually purchased a laptop before; I've always had them as hand-me-downs, so I'm kind of torn as how to spec it. I'll mainly use it for content consumption and light gaming such as Grand Theft Auto San Andreas, Thrillville Off The Rails, and various other games from my childhood; these two probably being the most demanding. The base config comes as follows, and is priced at $565 (I get a discount from my union): Ryzen 3 4300U 8 GB DDR4-3200 SDRAM (2x4 GB) 1080p Touchscreen, 250 nits 256 GB M.2 NVMe SSD There are a few upgrades available; here is what they are and how much they cost: Ryzen 5 4500U, $70 Ryzen 7 4700U, $210 16 GB DDR4-3200 SDRAM (2x8 GB), $90 1080p Touchscreen, 400 nits, $100 512 GB M.2 NVMe SSD, $70 The only upgrade I'm sure I'd like to get is to the 4500U, which brings my total to $635. I don't think the 4700U is worth the price, but I may be wrong. Feel free to correct me if I am. I am torn on whether or not to upgrade the RAM. $90 seems like a steep price to pay for an extra 8 GB, but the RAM is soldered, so there's no upgrading once I buy it. My current laptop with an i3-5005u and 8 GB of RAM, and it plays the aforementioned games fine at medium settings and 720-900p resolution, only being limited by the lousy HD 5500 graphics. Will getting the upgrade make this laptop more likely to run better years down the line? Or is the extra RAM just overkill for the 4500U and no discreet GPU? I don't think I'll opt for the 400 nit display. I don't see the need for it considering I rarely have the brightness set above half. I'm also assuming that the brighter screen will also reduce battery life, and I prefer to have as much as possible. Finally there is the matter of storage. I currently have a 500 GB SSD in my laptop that has 465 GB of usable space. With my Spotify library of nearly 3000 songs and a few games from my steam library that my laptop can actually play, I've only used about 55 GB of space. There are a few more games I may add totaling an extra 20 or so GB, but that's still much less than the 220-240 GB of usable space the 256 GB drive would have. Should I just stick with that, or just spend the extra money for the 512 GB drive? Or would it be more cost effective to stick with the 256 GB and upgrade it myself if need be? I'm sorry if these questions seem stupid, it's just that I've only ever dealt with building my own PC, and with that I can upgrade to my heart's content. I just don't want to waste $600 or more on a laptop and it not be what I want. Thanks in advance for any input y'all can give me!

@mariushm I think I'll just stick with the SSD at this point. Last year I put an SSD in a 2014 Toshiba running a Celeron and 4 GB of RAM and I couldn't believe how fast that made it. Only lag it had was the fact the processor and memory couldn't keep up. So if it did that for that POS, I'm sure it'll do wonders for my computer. As for the battery, I'll just stick with what I have for now. All the replacement are the same capacity or smaller, so I doubt that would do me much good. I guess I can't complain too much about it since I got this thing for free, right? Anyways, thanks for the advice!

@BlueChinchillaEatingDorito I really only use it for web browsing and some light gaming; stuff like SimCity 4 and Chris Saywer's Locomotion. It already handles that stuff pretty well, it just takes it's good old time doing it. From hitting the power button to actually being on the home screen and being able to use it can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. So I think I'll just stick to the SSD; I've never been limited by the RAM before and I doubt I ever will. And as I said to BlueScope819, HW Monitor says I have no battery wear, so I guess what I'm getting is all I'm going to get. I'll just stick with what I got. Thanks for the advice!

@BlueScope819 I went and downloaded HW Monitor. I can't believe I've never used it before! According to it I don't have any battery wear, so I guess I'm getting about all I can out of this battery. I'll look into PopOS and Manjaro like you said. Thanks for the advice!

Hey all, I got a hand me down 17.3" HP Notebook, model 17-x037cl. It's from roughly 2016 and has an i3-5005, 8GB RAM. It's an okay web browsing machine, but it's slow as all get out. I've already ordered an SK hynix 500GB SSD, but when I cracked it open I found that it has an open RAM slot. Should I pick up a 16 GB RAM kit? Or is that just wasting money given that it has such a low end, old CPU? Also, does anyone know what kind of battery life I should get out of this thing? I can manage 2 1/2, maybe 3 hours with some web browsing on chrome with a few tabs open. I feel like that's really low for a computer of this type. Attached is a picture of the markings on the battery. Is that all I should expect or should I consider a new battery? I can pick one up for $20-30. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated!

@Juanmacaam no, these are all phone lines. Our house was built around 2005 so we have no lines that specifically carry internet signal, so our internet shares a phone line. From the wall there is a phone/DSL splitter, which plugs into the modem. The cable that goes from the splitter to the modem is the square phone jack size, not the more rectangular ethernet size. I've tried plugging in our modem to every jack that I know it wired up, as there are some that are there but have never been connected, but none of them seem to carry any internet except the one it is currently connected to.

Hey Guys, First off, I know nothing about networking, so apologies if I use any terms incorrectly. We have phone jacks all over our house, but it seems we only have one that has internet going to it. We'd like to change the jack that has internet so we can move our modem, but I have no clue how. This picture is how our phone jacks are connected. The grey cable seems to be the line coming from the outside, and the blue ones each go to an individual phone jack. The blue cables are all labeled as to where they go. If I was to remove the tape from the cable that has the internet going to it, would I find an extra wire hooked up to it? If so, would I just need to move it to the corresponding wire on the cable I want to have internet going to? If this isn't the case, what should/could I do? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hey Everyone! So to start, a few days ago I bought the Sennheiser HD 6XX from drop.com and a Schiit Magni 3+ from Amazon. I just got the Magni in the mail, and as far as I know the headphones have yet to ship, so I decided to set up the Magni and test it out with what I have. My current daily drivers are Sennheiser HD 4.30i that just plug into front panel audio on my computer. I have a 3.5mm to 1/4 inch adapter from an old pair of Sony studio headphones that no longer work, so I plugged my HD 4.30i into that and plugged the adapter into the Magni, and I got nothing. I tried plugging the Magni into an old MP3 player I had, still nothing. I thought the Magni was junk, but then I pulled out my old Skullcandy Hesh 2 Wireless and plugged them into a regular 6 foot aux cord, plugged those into the 1/4 inch adapter, and boom, they work flawlessly. I didn't realize those Skullcandys could sound so good! But why didn't my HD 4.30i work? My idea is that they have an inline mic and audio controls on the cord, so the plug has three rings on it. My old Sony headset, which came with the adapter I'm using, and the aux cord on the Skullcandy did not have an inline mic, and therefore only had two rings on the plugs. Would this be the reason why? It's no big deal if no one knows the answer and I can't get the HD 4.30i working with my amp. I was just curious and figured someone would know more than I do! Thanks for any input!

Hey everyone! I'm planning on purchasing a 2070 Super to replace my 1660 ti; it works perfectly, I'm just looking to upgrade to a high refresh rate 1080p or 1440p monitor and want to make the most out of it. I don't have any friends looking for a GPU upgrade, and I don't have Facebook so I can't use Marketplace. I found a site called SellGPU.com, and they make it seem pretty easy and simple to get money for your stuff. They want to offer me $102 for the card. But I've never heard of them before. Has anyone else used them? Are they any good? Is there somewhere else y'all would recommend me going? Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hey Y'all, I built my rig around this time last year, below are my current specs. CPU Ryzen 5 2600x, stock cooler Motherboard MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200MHz GPU GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti Case Rosewill Spectra C100 Storage Kingston 240GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD 7200 RPM PSU Corsair CX 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze I wanted a gaming rig something terrible, but didn't have as much money as I would have liked to, so I cheap got cheap in a few areas, mainly the GPU. This worked out fine for a while, as I was playing games like BeamNG Drive and Automation: The Car Company Tycoon Game, nothing crazy. In the past year I have gotten a much better job and started buying some better, AAA games, such as GTA V, Mafia 3, and Far Cry New Dawn. All three of these games run alright, but I struggle to maintain 60 FPS without dropping the settings. Maybe it's just me, but I cringe when I have to lower settings. I want to get the best at 1080p without compromises. My next purchase will most likely be RDR 2, and I know there's no way I'm going to get a relatively steady 60 FPS without really dropping the settings, and I definitely don't want to do that. I am also looking to purchase a nice high refresh rate 1080p monitor, or maybe, but not likely, a 1440p monitor. Therefore, I've decided its time for an upgrade. I did a quick search on Amazon, there's two 2070S I can get for $499, linked here. https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD/dp/B07WN6RVHH/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921157&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-Graphics-IceStorm-Zt-T20710E-10M/dp/B07XSPWMP9/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921183&sr=8-7 I also looked at some 5700XT's ranging from $369 to $419, linked here. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921238&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1905MHz-Express-Graphics-Rx-57XT8OFF6/dp/B07WRYC3MT/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-6\ https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Radeon-Boost-Clock/dp/B07WNSP41M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-8 What I know already is that the 5700XT is 10 to 20 percent slower, but 25 or more percent cheaper that the 2070S. That would make me inclined to go with the 5700XT. But I know they had a lot of launch issues, such as overheating and bad drivers. Is this still the case? Also, my motherboard is only a B450, so it doesn't have PCI E 4.0. Does that have any kind of performance difference? It seems like the 2070S is a pretty universally well liked card, and seems to have less issues. I could care less about ray tracing though. So would the chance of it being easier to just plug and play make it work the extra $100+? I have the money to buy either, and am kind of leaning towards the 5700XT, but I just don't want to spend so much money and be fighting it all the way to get it working right. Remember, my main goal is to play anything maxed at 1080p, 60 FPS. Anything past that is just a nice bonus. I know this is probably overkill, but I'd like my next upgrade to be 2 or 3 years from now, not in less than one year like with my 1660ti. Thanks for any advice!

@Shimejii Fair point. I've heard of the issues that people have had with iPhone support, but I've never dealt with it myself. I got an iPhone 5c for Christmas in 2013, and then the 6s in 2016. I never had a problem with either of them. Then again I baby my phones; I try to never drop them, though it has happened a few times, and both iPhones had Otterbox Defender cases. Once you cleaned the dirt off of them, they looked brand new even after years of use. Same with my Pixel. None of the 3 Pixel phones I've had so far had even a scratch on them. but none of them worked completely right in one way or another. You could say I'm very biased. I've had more issues in 11 months of Pixel ownership than I did in 5+ years of iPhone.

Back in February 2019, I bought a Google Pixel 3 to replace my iPhone 6s. I'm paying $846.94 for it over 24 months. I thought it was an excellent phone, but then I started having issues with it about 3 months ago. At first, the charger had issues with staying in the port if the phone vertical on the mount in my car. It slowly progressed to the charger only being able to inserted halfway into the port, and not being able to provide power at all. I contacted Google Support about it on December 19, and about 30 minutes later I had a replacement phone ordered. I had to provide my credit card info so they could put a hold until they received my old phone, as I can't be without a phone due to my job. On December 23 I received my replacement phone, and there was immediately an issue; the bottom speaker was blown. Because of this, I couldn't take phone calls on speaker, or hear any alarms or notifications, as all those sounds only played through the bottom speaker. I tried to live with it for a little over a week until the speaker went from very distorted to completely non-functioning. On January 5, I contacted support again, and 30 minutes later a second replacement phone was on the way. I received that phone today, January 8, and it too had an issue. On the bottom right corner of the screen there is an issue with the pixels; it displays green when the rest of the screen is white, and the color is distorted when any other color is displayed. I immediately contacted customer support and requested a refund. They told me they could not do that because the limit for returns was in March, a month after I received my first phone. The only thing he could do was send me a third replacement phone. I reluctantly agreed to do that, but made sure to let them know I was very disappointed with the devices they were sending. He said he was sorry and he would pass it on. I'm fed up with this. The replacement phones they send are all refurbished, but so far it seems like they don't even bother checking that these phones work before sending them back out. Also, they charge full price for replacement phones if the old one isn't returned in time, even though the phone they send is refurbished. Doesn't seem too fair to me. But if this third phone they send me is also defective, I will fight harder for a refund. I should not be spending nearly $1,000 to have such a lousy experience. I would not recommend buying a Google phone at all. Stick with an iPhone. They actually work properly.

Sorry for the late replies, but I had to go to work. But I've done some more research thanks to you two. @Bombastinator, Both of these computers do have soldered CPUs. On the Toshiba, its a Celeron N2820, and the Dell is a Celeron N3060. So unfortunately a CPU upgrade is out of the question. @Eigenvektor, I have confirmed that both CPUs are 64 bit and can support up to 8 GB of RAM. I've already been inside both machines. The Toshiba was easy, just a single screw and a panel pops off the bottom to give you access to the RAM and storage. On the Dell, it was exactly how you described. Almost 10 screws on the bottom, take out the DVD drive, pop out the keyboard, take out 5 more screws, and then you're in. But the RAM in both computers are single, 4 GB SODIMM stick. 4 GB is all both computers say they have in the About tab in the settings. There is only a single slot for RAM, and there doesn't appear to be any soldered RAM. I'll keep thinking about the RAM upgrade, but I think I'll go through with the SSD upgrade. I know how fast they've made my own personal gaming rig and my mom's PC. Honestly, I'm not expecting a $32 SSD to preform any miracles (Kingston A400 240 GB), but if it can cut boot times from literal minutes to under one minute, I'll call it a success. Thank you very much for your input!

A family friend has two laptops that haven't been used very much because of how slow they run. One is a Dell Inspiron 15 from 2017 and the other is a Toshiba Satellite running Windows 8.1 from 2014. Both of them have some kind of Celeron processors, so I know neither of them will be powerhouses, but I'd like to at least make them not painfully slow. I'm already planning on putting a SSD in both, and installing Windows 10 on the Toshiba, but I've found that they both have single 4GB sticks of DDR3 1333 MHz ram. I've found a 2x8GB 1600 MHz kit on Amazon for $42. Would buying that and putting a 8GB stick in each system be worth it, or should the SSDs be enough? I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible for them, and I don't want to almost double to cost by adding more RAM if it's not going to help, which I feel like it won't because the low power processors and the single channel RAM. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I'm building my mom a new computer for Christmas, and have spent less than $350 total for everything but Windows 10. A friend tried to get me a free Windows 10 key through her college, but three weeks after submitting her request for it, she has yet to hear anything back. So now that all the parts will be arriving tomorrow, I need to purchase a Windows 10 key ASAP, but I absolutely do not want to pay the $130-$140 that Microsoft is asking, especially because of how cheap the computer is. When I search "Windows 10 Key" on Google, the first few sellers are places like G2A with prices around $17, and PC Market Online for about $25. Are these keys actually legit, and are they safe to use? Are there other sites that sell keys that any of you would recommend more? Or should I just suck it up and buy a full price key from Microsoft? Thanks for any and all advice!

I built my gaming PC this spring after owning consoles for the previous 15 years, so naturally, whenever I tried to play anything with a mouse and keyboard, I sucked. Since April I've had two PowerA wired Xbox One Controllers; the first one lasted 3 months until the left joystick quit working, and this one 5 months, but now the micro USB plug on the controller no longer works, even though I've never unplugged the cable from the controller. So I've wasted $40 on junk controllers. My question is should I just run down to my local Walmart and pick up an official wireless Xbox One controller? They currently have them for $39.99. Are they any good? I've only owned PlayStation consoles, so I haven't experienced their build quality. Or is there another brand of Xbox One controller, wired or wireless, that you guys would recommend? Thanks in advance for any advice!

I'm looking to build my second computer, this one being for my 60 year old mother. She will only be using it for web browsing, so it doesn't need to be powerful. The only problem is that there is nothing that this woman hates doing more than spending money, so one of her ways of saving it is by using a computer till its slower than a 90's Civic. She has owned 3 computers in 22 years, the most recent being built 9 years ago with an AMD Athlon CPU and running Windows 7. So this new computer needs to be powerful enough now to be usable years from now, and cheap, between $300 and $350 not including Windows 10. With that in mind, what do you guys think would be a good CPU? My main choice would be a Ryzen 3 2200G, just because it's a quad core with good integrated graphics, and it's $78. I feel like an Athlon 200GE isn't powerful enough to be adequate in 5+ years, and I don't feel a Ryzen 5 2400G offers enough of an increase in power for an extra $40 ($119). Do you guys agree with this choice? Also, below is my build on PC Part Picker. The Storage is just a stand in, it will be a 240GB Kingston A400 2280 M.2 which is the same price as the 2.5" SSD. Does the rest of the build look good as well? PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $78.00 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $84.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $44.99 @ Amazon Storage Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $31.99 @ Amazon Case Rosewill SCM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $28.99 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $58.54 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $327.50 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-10 14:55 EST-0500 Thanks in advance for any advice!