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wojoxx98

Member
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About wojoxx98

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday 1998-02-12

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    wojoxx98
  • Steam
    wojoxx98

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600x
  • Motherboard
    MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200MHz
  • GPU
    GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti
  • Case
    Rosewill Spectra C100
  • Storage
    Kingston 240GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD 7200 RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair CX 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze
  • Display(s)
    HP 24w
  • Cooling
    Ryzen Wraith Cooler, 5 case fans
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G213
  • Mouse
    Logitech G203
  • Sound
    Logitech Z623
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

154 profile views
  1. @Juanmacaam no, these are all phone lines. Our house was built around 2005 so we have no lines that specifically carry internet signal, so our internet shares a phone line. From the wall there is a phone/DSL splitter, which plugs into the modem. The cable that goes from the splitter to the modem is the square phone jack size, not the more rectangular ethernet size. I've tried plugging in our modem to every jack that I know it wired up, as there are some that are there but have never been connected, but none of them seem to carry any internet except the one it is currently connected to.
  2. Hey Guys, First off, I know nothing about networking, so apologies if I use any terms incorrectly. We have phone jacks all over our house, but it seems we only have one that has internet going to it. We'd like to change the jack that has internet so we can move our modem, but I have no clue how. This picture is how our phone jacks are connected. The grey cable seems to be the line coming from the outside, and the blue ones each go to an individual phone jack. The blue cables are all labeled as to where they go. If I was to remove the tape from the cable that has the internet going to it, would I find an extra wire hooked up to it? If so, would I just need to move it to the corresponding wire on the cable I want to have internet going to? If this isn't the case, what should/could I do? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  3. Hey Everyone! So to start, a few days ago I bought the Sennheiser HD 6XX from drop.com and a Schiit Magni 3+ from Amazon. I just got the Magni in the mail, and as far as I know the headphones have yet to ship, so I decided to set up the Magni and test it out with what I have. My current daily drivers are Sennheiser HD 4.30i that just plug into front panel audio on my computer. I have a 3.5mm to 1/4 inch adapter from an old pair of Sony studio headphones that no longer work, so I plugged my HD 4.30i into that and plugged the adapter into the Magni, and I got nothing. I tried plugging the Magni into an old MP3 player I had, still nothing. I thought the Magni was junk, but then I pulled out my old Skullcandy Hesh 2 Wireless and plugged them into a regular 6 foot aux cord, plugged those into the 1/4 inch adapter, and boom, they work flawlessly. I didn't realize those Skullcandys could sound so good! But why didn't my HD 4.30i work? My idea is that they have an inline mic and audio controls on the cord, so the plug has three rings on it. My old Sony headset, which came with the adapter I'm using, and the aux cord on the Skullcandy did not have an inline mic, and therefore only had two rings on the plugs. Would this be the reason why? It's no big deal if no one knows the answer and I can't get the HD 4.30i working with my amp. I was just curious and figured someone would know more than I do! Thanks for any input!
  4. Hey everyone! I'm planning on purchasing a 2070 Super to replace my 1660 ti; it works perfectly, I'm just looking to upgrade to a high refresh rate 1080p or 1440p monitor and want to make the most out of it. I don't have any friends looking for a GPU upgrade, and I don't have Facebook so I can't use Marketplace. I found a site called SellGPU.com, and they make it seem pretty easy and simple to get money for your stuff. They want to offer me $102 for the card. But I've never heard of them before. Has anyone else used them? Are they any good? Is there somewhere else y'all would recommend me going? Thanks in advance for any advice!
  5. Hey Y'all, I built my rig around this time last year, below are my current specs. CPU Ryzen 5 2600x, stock cooler Motherboard MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC RAM Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB DDR4 3200MHz GPU GIGABYTE Windforce OC GTX 1660ti Case Rosewill Spectra C100 Storage Kingston 240GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD 7200 RPM PSU Corsair CX 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze I wanted a gaming rig something terrible, but didn't have as much money as I would have liked to, so I cheap got cheap in a few areas, mainly the GPU. This worked out fine for a while, as I was playing games like BeamNG Drive and Automation: The Car Company Tycoon Game, nothing crazy. In the past year I have gotten a much better job and started buying some better, AAA games, such as GTA V, Mafia 3, and Far Cry New Dawn. All three of these games run alright, but I struggle to maintain 60 FPS without dropping the settings. Maybe it's just me, but I cringe when I have to lower settings. I want to get the best at 1080p without compromises. My next purchase will most likely be RDR 2, and I know there's no way I'm going to get a relatively steady 60 FPS without really dropping the settings, and I definitely don't want to do that. I am also looking to purchase a nice high refresh rate 1080p monitor, or maybe, but not likely, a 1440p monitor. Therefore, I've decided its time for an upgrade. I did a quick search on Amazon, there's two 2070S I can get for $499, linked here. https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD/dp/B07WN6RVHH/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921157&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-Graphics-IceStorm-Zt-T20710E-10M/dp/B07XSPWMP9/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=2070s&qid=1584921183&sr=8-7 I also looked at some 5700XT's ranging from $369 to $419, linked here. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921238&sr=8-1 https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1905MHz-Express-Graphics-Rx-57XT8OFF6/dp/B07WRYC3MT/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-6\ https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Radeon-Boost-Clock/dp/B07WNSP41M/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=5700xt&qid=1584921349&sr=8-8 What I know already is that the 5700XT is 10 to 20 percent slower, but 25 or more percent cheaper that the 2070S. That would make me inclined to go with the 5700XT. But I know they had a lot of launch issues, such as overheating and bad drivers. Is this still the case? Also, my motherboard is only a B450, so it doesn't have PCI E 4.0. Does that have any kind of performance difference? It seems like the 2070S is a pretty universally well liked card, and seems to have less issues. I could care less about ray tracing though. So would the chance of it being easier to just plug and play make it work the extra $100+? I have the money to buy either, and am kind of leaning towards the 5700XT, but I just don't want to spend so much money and be fighting it all the way to get it working right. Remember, my main goal is to play anything maxed at 1080p, 60 FPS. Anything past that is just a nice bonus. I know this is probably overkill, but I'd like my next upgrade to be 2 or 3 years from now, not in less than one year like with my 1660ti. Thanks for any advice!
  6. @Shimejii Fair point. I've heard of the issues that people have had with iPhone support, but I've never dealt with it myself. I got an iPhone 5c for Christmas in 2013, and then the 6s in 2016. I never had a problem with either of them. Then again I baby my phones; I try to never drop them, though it has happened a few times, and both iPhones had Otterbox Defender cases. Once you cleaned the dirt off of them, they looked brand new even after years of use. Same with my Pixel. None of the 3 Pixel phones I've had so far had even a scratch on them. but none of them worked completely right in one way or another. You could say I'm very biased. I've had more issues in 11 months of Pixel ownership than I did in 5+ years of iPhone.
  7. Back in February 2019, I bought a Google Pixel 3 to replace my iPhone 6s. I'm paying $846.94 for it over 24 months. I thought it was an excellent phone, but then I started having issues with it about 3 months ago. At first, the charger had issues with staying in the port if the phone vertical on the mount in my car. It slowly progressed to the charger only being able to inserted halfway into the port, and not being able to provide power at all. I contacted Google Support about it on December 19, and about 30 minutes later I had a replacement phone ordered. I had to provide my credit card info so they could put a hold until they received my old phone, as I can't be without a phone due to my job. On December 23 I received my replacement phone, and there was immediately an issue; the bottom speaker was blown. Because of this, I couldn't take phone calls on speaker, or hear any alarms or notifications, as all those sounds only played through the bottom speaker. I tried to live with it for a little over a week until the speaker went from very distorted to completely non-functioning. On January 5, I contacted support again, and 30 minutes later a second replacement phone was on the way. I received that phone today, January 8, and it too had an issue. On the bottom right corner of the screen there is an issue with the pixels; it displays green when the rest of the screen is white, and the color is distorted when any other color is displayed. I immediately contacted customer support and requested a refund. They told me they could not do that because the limit for returns was in March, a month after I received my first phone. The only thing he could do was send me a third replacement phone. I reluctantly agreed to do that, but made sure to let them know I was very disappointed with the devices they were sending. He said he was sorry and he would pass it on. I'm fed up with this. The replacement phones they send are all refurbished, but so far it seems like they don't even bother checking that these phones work before sending them back out. Also, they charge full price for replacement phones if the old one isn't returned in time, even though the phone they send is refurbished. Doesn't seem too fair to me. But if this third phone they send me is also defective, I will fight harder for a refund. I should not be spending nearly $1,000 to have such a lousy experience. I would not recommend buying a Google phone at all. Stick with an iPhone. They actually work properly.
  8. Sorry for the late replies, but I had to go to work. But I've done some more research thanks to you two. @Bombastinator, Both of these computers do have soldered CPUs. On the Toshiba, its a Celeron N2820, and the Dell is a Celeron N3060. So unfortunately a CPU upgrade is out of the question. @Eigenvektor, I have confirmed that both CPUs are 64 bit and can support up to 8 GB of RAM. I've already been inside both machines. The Toshiba was easy, just a single screw and a panel pops off the bottom to give you access to the RAM and storage. On the Dell, it was exactly how you described. Almost 10 screws on the bottom, take out the DVD drive, pop out the keyboard, take out 5 more screws, and then you're in. But the RAM in both computers are single, 4 GB SODIMM stick. 4 GB is all both computers say they have in the About tab in the settings. There is only a single slot for RAM, and there doesn't appear to be any soldered RAM. I'll keep thinking about the RAM upgrade, but I think I'll go through with the SSD upgrade. I know how fast they've made my own personal gaming rig and my mom's PC. Honestly, I'm not expecting a $32 SSD to preform any miracles (Kingston A400 240 GB), but if it can cut boot times from literal minutes to under one minute, I'll call it a success. Thank you very much for your input!
  9. A family friend has two laptops that haven't been used very much because of how slow they run. One is a Dell Inspiron 15 from 2017 and the other is a Toshiba Satellite running Windows 8.1 from 2014. Both of them have some kind of Celeron processors, so I know neither of them will be powerhouses, but I'd like to at least make them not painfully slow. I'm already planning on putting a SSD in both, and installing Windows 10 on the Toshiba, but I've found that they both have single 4GB sticks of DDR3 1333 MHz ram. I've found a 2x8GB 1600 MHz kit on Amazon for $42. Would buying that and putting a 8GB stick in each system be worth it, or should the SSDs be enough? I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible for them, and I don't want to almost double to cost by adding more RAM if it's not going to help, which I feel like it won't because the low power processors and the single channel RAM. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  10. I'm building my mom a new computer for Christmas, and have spent less than $350 total for everything but Windows 10. A friend tried to get me a free Windows 10 key through her college, but three weeks after submitting her request for it, she has yet to hear anything back. So now that all the parts will be arriving tomorrow, I need to purchase a Windows 10 key ASAP, but I absolutely do not want to pay the $130-$140 that Microsoft is asking, especially because of how cheap the computer is. When I search "Windows 10 Key" on Google, the first few sellers are places like G2A with prices around $17, and PC Market Online for about $25. Are these keys actually legit, and are they safe to use? Are there other sites that sell keys that any of you would recommend more? Or should I just suck it up and buy a full price key from Microsoft? Thanks for any and all advice!
  11. I built my gaming PC this spring after owning consoles for the previous 15 years, so naturally, whenever I tried to play anything with a mouse and keyboard, I sucked. Since April I've had two PowerA wired Xbox One Controllers; the first one lasted 3 months until the left joystick quit working, and this one 5 months, but now the micro USB plug on the controller no longer works, even though I've never unplugged the cable from the controller. So I've wasted $40 on junk controllers. My question is should I just run down to my local Walmart and pick up an official wireless Xbox One controller? They currently have them for $39.99. Are they any good? I've only owned PlayStation consoles, so I haven't experienced their build quality. Or is there another brand of Xbox One controller, wired or wireless, that you guys would recommend? Thanks in advance for any advice!
  12. I'm looking to build my second computer, this one being for my 60 year old mother. She will only be using it for web browsing, so it doesn't need to be powerful. The only problem is that there is nothing that this woman hates doing more than spending money, so one of her ways of saving it is by using a computer till its slower than a 90's Civic. She has owned 3 computers in 22 years, the most recent being built 9 years ago with an AMD Athlon CPU and running Windows 7. So this new computer needs to be powerful enough now to be usable years from now, and cheap, between $300 and $350 not including Windows 10. With that in mind, what do you guys think would be a good CPU? My main choice would be a Ryzen 3 2200G, just because it's a quad core with good integrated graphics, and it's $78. I feel like an Athlon 200GE isn't powerful enough to be adequate in 5+ years, and I don't feel a Ryzen 5 2400G offers enough of an increase in power for an extra $40 ($119). Do you guys agree with this choice? Also, below is my build on PC Part Picker. The Storage is just a stand in, it will be a 240GB Kingston A400 2280 M.2 which is the same price as the 2.5" SSD. Does the rest of the build look good as well? PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $78.00 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $84.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $44.99 @ Amazon Storage Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $31.99 @ Amazon Case Rosewill SCM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $28.99 @ Amazon Power Supply Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $58.54 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $327.50 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-10 14:55 EST-0500 Thanks in advance for any advice!
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