Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Ambitious_Basket

  • Title

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I see. I know how to calculate the watts from the wall based on PSU efficiency, and I'm in Canada so the voltage is 120V - 125V. But I'm not familiar with how I can calculate the resistivity of the cord, or how to use that information estimate the temperature the cord can potentially reach. Is there a formula I just need to plug numbers into, or is it more complicated? Would you be able to provide some guidance there please? Thanks!
  2. Thank you for clarifying. I guess my next question in that case would be: is 105°C a temperature that can potentially be reached as a result of using a 850W PSU? If not, what is the maximum temperature it can realistically reach? I'm asking because I'm having trouble finding a cord rated for 105°C, so in trying to determine if I can just buy one rated for a lower temperature, or if I need to keep looking until I find an exact match. Would you have any recommendations by any chance? Thanks again.
  3. Hi, I'm looking to replace my PC's NEMA 5-15P to IEC 320 C13 power cord. My PSU is Corsair's RM850x, and the cord that came with it is 16 AWG with operating temperature of 105℃. Now, I know that for safety reasons, my replacement cord must match my existing cord's gauge, so I need to get a cord that is at least 16 AWG or thicker. But my question is, does it also need to match the operating temperature of 105℃? Would a cord with much lower operating temperature (e.g. 60℃) be sufficient? After all, my room never reaches 60℃, let alone 105℃, so I'm not sure if being rated for 105℃ is overkill, or if it is actually necessary for safety reasons. Also, does it make a difference which manufacturer/retailer I buy the replacement cord from? Or are they more or less the same as long as they're UL listed? Thanks!
  4. Would a PSU in Tier D be acceptable for a super low end PC without a dedicated GPU? e.g. AMD Ryzen 2200G with stock configuration, 2 sticks of 2400Mhz RAM, and a SSD + HDD. The reason I'm asking is because Tier C is listed as being acceptable for "GPUs with no external PCI-e power connection". But if there isn't a GPU at all, does that mean it would be acceptable to drop down to Tier D? "acceptable" to me would mean no catastrophic failures that would take out other components before they become extremely outdated relative to the modern standards at that time, and are due for an upgrade either way. Thanks!
  5. Hi, I am trying to decide which CPU air cooler to use in the Corsair Crystal Series 280X, which has front intake and top exhaust. I understand that there are two main types of CPU air coolers: Tower Coolers (e.g. Noctua NH-D9S); and the Downdraft/Top-flow/Top Down Coolers (e.g. Noctua NH-C14S). I've heard that Tower Coolers generally perform better than Downdraft Coolers when the airflow intakes from the front and exhaust out the back. However, this case instead exhausts air out the top, which I've heard actually hurts Tower Coolers. But at the same time, the side panel of this case is Tempered Glass, which I've also heard hurts Downdraft CPU Coolers. So at the end of the day, which type of CPU air cooler will get me the best thermals and overclocking headroom in the Corsair Crystal Series 280X? Thanks!