ZivZulander

That is pretty awesome ?

Are you sure it's your memory causing the reboots, then? I would make sure you are running latest BIOS. Also ome B450 boards are problematic with Ryzen 3rd gen, but I don't know if that's one of them.

It depends, because if the subtimings, voltage, and other memory settings you are using are from XMP profile or default, the main timings may not be stable. Also, Ryzen 3600 is perfectly capable of higher than 3200, which is actually more of a base guarantee. 3600 is ideal if your Ininity Fabric is running at stock speed (1800MHz).

Assuming you tried the Ryzen Memory Calculator and it hasn't worked for you, Buildzoid has some good settings in this video. It's for a particular set of RAM, but he gives good ranges of settings to try for timings and subtimings and some "safe" numbers that should be good for that, particularly if it's B-die. Starts around 20 minute mark.

C7 is good if you replace the fan with a Noctua. Do you have a CPU cooler height limitation due to your case? Otherwise there are other downdraft coolers to consider (including the big brother of the IS-40, the IS-60), but a C7 should be sufficient for a 3600. The main advantage of 3rd party coolers vs stock is most will be quieter, and possibly run cooler CPU cooler by a few degrees.

Yes, all the AM4 CPUs will work on all the AM4 motheboards (using newer CPU on older boards requires BIOS update, which is made easy with boards that support BIOS flashback). The only advantage by going with X570 though is PCI-E 4.0, which has very little benefit for most people. X570 boards due have a better minimum power delivery on average to be able to handle a CPU like the 3950X, but a lot of the previous gen boards are plenty capable (like the MSI one mentioned above). And B450 boards are a lot cheaper at the moment.

Finally got around to putting my Gateron Inks in a board. Linear, but kind of "poppy" switches; need to type with them more, but they have a Topre-like quality to them. WhiteFox case+PCB, dark grey Varmilo PBT keycaps.

I think that would work well both for compatibility and for cooling performance, particularly as Meshify C is front mesh. With good fans in front (I would go for 2x 140mm), you should be good on keeping CPU cool.

https://noctua.at/en/how-big-is-the-nh-d15-and-how-much-clearance-does-it-provide-for-ram-and-chipset-coolers To revise what I said, D15 will fit the RAM, but you may have to reposition the fans a bit higher if doing dual fan in the stock configuration. Since the CPU clearance is limited to 170mm in that case... yeah, you might have a problem with that RAM. I would get Corsair Vengeance LPX (31mm height, so you definitely won't have a problem fitting them) if you can, otherwise 3900X with U12A would be more viable. Or just don't use a fan on the motherboard side of the D15.

D15 or D15S, for the 3950X for sure. TridentZ isn't that tall, it should fit under all three.

Agreed with everything, though I will add one inherent switch feature that can matter for gaming is hysteresis, which can help to prevent accidental double actuation of switches but also can hinder spamming of switches.

Either the Shadow Rock LP or L12S would be fine for a 3600.

It doesn't look like HWiNFO is even pulling CPU temp. Wonder if the sensor is actually dead or whether there's a compatibility issue.

I missed that it's a blower-style (centrifugal) cooler. Definitely second the recommendation. Blowers are only good for reference cards (to remove the cooler to use waterblock) and for very cramped cases that don't have airflow. Otherwise it's better to go for axial (large models have dual or triple fans) as they usually cool more effectively at lower noise levels. The Focus line isn't bad, just missing some of the features and efficiency of Seasonic's higher end units.

I'm guessing you know you need the 64GB of RAM? It would be better to get faster RAM otherwise, as Ryzen benefits from fast RAM in a lot of applications. You may be able to OC it without loosening the timings too much, but it's easier to run faster speed with fewer, lower capacity sticks (usually). Also that board is fairly pricey, any specific features you need from it? Other than that, not seeing any obvious issues, and it looks like a good build. Should be good for video editing, gaming, and streaming.

I wouldn't necessarily trust CFM numbers manufacturers provide, especially as they are at specific RPMs that you aren't likely to be using unless running full tilt. It's better to use fan curves unless you really don't care about noise, or are using fans that top out at a certain dB level or use a low noise adapter like Noctua does. Just use best possible fans for your needs, and dust out your case once in a while with air duster. Most people shouldn't worry about pressure, except for getting high static pressure fans when pushing/pulling air through restrictive dust filters or radiators. Otherwise for case fans I think prioritizing airflow is best for most scenarios. There's really not a lot of "pressure" with a ventilated case. Sketching a diagram of airflow to make sure air is flowing over all the components, preferably in one direction without bends if possible (e.g. front-to-back or bottom-to-top, without 90 degree turns as some closed-off front panel cases have) and you'll be fine. Dust *will* accumulate somewhere no matter what.

Agree with the above. I would like to know what the temps are, otherwise it's not clear that you have a problem with case cooling, particularly given perforations, number of fan mounts populated, and unimpeded airflow. The case fans would have to be pretty bad to not be moving enough air to keep those components cool, though if you really want to upgrade you should start with the stock Intel cooler. But I don't know what CPU you are running, so if it's a low-end Intel CPU, it should be fine even with that. It's not a sealed-off case. I don't think he needs to worry about whether the setup is either positive or negative pressure, so long as there's airflow.

Hexgears Gemini Dawn/Dusk? Kailh BOX Brown. Apparently in pre-order on Kono store, though.

120mm fan of your choice + Phanteks Halos RGB fan frames. I personally like Noctua or Be Quiet! fans, which generally can be run at very low RPMs, though there are great fans from a few other manufacturers.

Yes, as the CPU and GPU aren't the only components that need some level of cooling, the VRMs, chipset, SSD/HDD, RAM, and other components benefit from cooling. The PSU can help a bit, but you don't want it to be the sole exhaust in the system. Depending on the GPU and CPU, as well as how ventilated the case is (some cases are particularly bad by constricting airflow), the heat from those two components can be lingering as kind of a heat blanket over the other components without case fans removing the heat. Heat does dissipate naturally, but not fast enough, hence case fans are used to bring in cool air and exhaust hot air. You might not kill components right away without case fans, but you will see higher temps in the system, and the CPU and/or GPU may throttle. Lifetime of some components will also be shortened. Also, case fans can help with noise. Even case fans running at low RPM will help cool your GPU and CPU, which means the fans on them won't need to run as fast, resulting in less noise; people often associate more fans with more noise, but the truth is it's generally better to have more fans (to a point - obviously diminishing returns applies) if you don't need to run them at higher RPM. There's only a small additive effect with noise when adding case fans; it's a common misconception that each successive fan is somehow multiplying the noise level exponentially, but that's not true. Thermal paste on CPU and GPU will also start to dry and lose effectiveness over years, resulting in higher temps. Fans and cases will also get gunked up by dust (you should regularly dust your computer, but not everyone does) and just over time some fans can get a little less performant (slow failure). So every bit of redundancy with cooling can be a good investment, especially given how cheap case fans are.

General rule for me is once you go beyond adding or swapping out a single component (e.g. RAM or GPU), or over a certain price threshold (e.g. $300), it's better to just do a new build, especially given the limitations of pre-built computers from the big vendors like Dell. With that budget and use case, I would absolutely go for a new build. Also for VR, you can go for a smaller build, which makes it easier to move around if you need to.

They'll stop pushing updates. Some apps may stop supporting Windows 7 after a few years, too, like Chrome and Firefox did with Windows XP and Vista when Microsoft stopped supporting it.

Either is fine, I think they get handled the same way.

I wouldn't upgrade, unless you are finding it's not fast enough for a particular game or use case. Save the money, wait for next generation of graphics cards, or next gen of CPUs to jump to new platform. Doesn't seem like it's worth it to upgrade now, those are good specs. Maybe upgrade to 2080 Super if you absolutely want to burn some money now.

Yes, CPU is more than adequate. Make sure the RAM you get is a dual channel (2 sticks, 8GB each) kit. Specs are good, should be great for 1080p gaming. Also, that case looks like it might have poor airflow. You should probably put a fan on top for intake and populate front panel with fans, as well.