Algebruh

Man, this thread is quite entertaining to read lol

Passive/semi-passive: Ninja 5/LGM RT/Macho 120mm cooler: Fuma 2 Large dual tower cooler : D15, Assassin III maybe (I hate its ugly Logo)

Cooler Master H500 The front intake fan cut out is laughable. 120mm*360mm cut out for two 200mm fans, and the most of the area is blocked by those giant fan hubs. Besides of CM H500, I hate any case with front fan mounted behind the fan mount. That was one of the reasons why I sold my Meshify C. Any obstacle that is directly in front of a fan increases noise drastically. Even some of the "silent" cases are designed with this kind of fan mount

Bruh moment.

There are some games that make GPU go from idle to full load and back to low power stage every few minutes (e.g. Dirt Rally 2.0, Assetto Corsa etc.) Since most people consider that it is okay for PSU to work near OPP trigger point during GPU transition (from idle to full load). I have following question : Do voltage and ripple stay within Intel regulation when PSU is working near OPP or OCP? Edit : My psu is RM750x

I have question regarding voltage regulation which probably isn't really matter, but I'm curious Which psu is considered better? One with tighter variation (0.2%) but overall voltage is 3% higher (e.g. 12.300v~12.325v) or the one with looser variation(0.8%) but overall voltage is closer (within 1%) to 12V (e.g. 11.952v~12.048v)?

Depends on CPU. For intel, any high end cooler will do. For AMD, Thermalright ARO-M14. Its coldplate is specially designed for AMD IHS, because AMD decided to use convex IHS

Do Seasonic fix their fan profile? Some of their psus seem to make horrible grinding noise at low rpm.

Are stock RM850x White Edition cables compatible with Corsair AX1000 titanium and HX1200 platinum? edit : added efficiency

What's wrong with AX? Reviews seem to be pretty positive.

Parts that probably "only" need 600W, but that's not what this thread is discussing.

Which psu should I buy? HX1200 or AX1000? Should I be worried about the high OCP trigger point (117A) on AX1000? How often does SCP fail to trigger (dunno if this is possible) if there is a short in motherboard, GPU etc.? Thanks.

Sept 1, 2020 update : Finally received the replacement. Details in OP.

Total three out of seven fans failed. Two failed in 4 month. Mostly running at 1600rpm, 2~4hr per day. Last one failed in 6 months. Other 3 fans are fine since purchased. (About 14 months ago) Kinda disappointing to be honest.

Deleted. Edit in OP.

OOF. Noctua fans are not designed to be used in PSU.

deleted

No, that's a different cooler. True Spirit 140 Power is 171.6mm tall. Frost Spirit 140 looks like this: If you don't mind the orange fan, Silver Arrow T8 is also a good cooler, basically D15s but orange

You need to buy Frost Spirit on Aliexpress, because it is only sold in China AFAIK The fans on that cooler is grey-ish tho.

I don't know how much Frost Spirit 140 costs outside of China. It costs about $40 US dollar in China. The performance is on par with U12A,but worse than U14S. If you can get it cheaper than Fuma 2/U14S, than sure go for it. Le Grand Macho RT is also pretty good if it is in your budget and fits in your case.

I'll post the graph from the review, since you are too lazy to click the link. Edit : oops, almost forgot to tag you @freeagent I can post another FS140 chiphell review if you wish. Spoiler alert : It got defeated by 6x6mm heatpipes cooler

Me either So you just decided not to read the post and just wanted to be salty, okay lol I don't know why I expected an intelligent reply from you. Edit: Do you get your hands on FS140 yet? It is dirt-cheap, like 40 USD cheap. I'm looking forward to your praise for that cooler

Since we are going to quote Chiphell review, here is a review from a reviewer who is very reputable and active in Chiphell. https://www.chiphell.com/thread-2198044-1-1.html "Deepcool piece of junk", lol ,that's funny. Assassin III rivals silver arrow IB-E extreme while being quieter (same TIM, stock fans). 4x8mm heatpipes are less effective than 6x6mm heatpipes https://www.chiphell.com/thread-2184844-1-1.html Nothing against Thermalright, they were absolutely the best air cooler manufacturer few years ago (well, before the ownership change to be precise), but right now their new cooler is kinda meh (There are some QC issues with the coldplate).

If you want to re-paste the GPU, please use high viscosity thermal paste. And please, please do not use pea size or small dot method (or whatever it is called) on GPU. It is important that the die is completely covered by thermal paste, or there will be hot spot on the die. Extra thermal paste will be squeezed out by the pressure of the heatsink. It is fine as long as the thermal paste is not electrically conductive or capacitive. For something with IHS, it makes almost no difference. NT-H1 or MX-4 is fine. I used NT-H1 on my 2070 super, it pumped out like crazy. Only after two weeks of gaming, there is almost no thermal paste on the edge of the die. Right now I am using Thermalright TFX on GPU die, but it is very expensive. I might use Prolimatech PK-3 in the future.

I have the same case, and I absolutely hate that Cooler Master decided to be lazy on the case design. I replace those 200mm fans with three A12x25. The difference is small, the temperatures only decrease by 1~2 C for CPU and GPU. The noise is slightly lower though. The new sickleflow 120 seems to be pretty good on heatsink (the only review I can find is written in Chinese).